Max the 2000 out and the check engine light starts blinking...
#1
they go wooooot wooooot
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Max the 2000 out and the check engine light starts blinking...
Hey guys,
Well, I was seeing what the max was in my new 2000 tl-p (on a closed, certified track, of course.... ) and right at 120, maybe 118, the check engine light started blinking. So when I was slowing down on the offramp, i mean, post-race lap... it stopped and everything was fine. Anyone have any ideas?
Well, I was seeing what the max was in my new 2000 tl-p (on a closed, certified track, of course.... ) and right at 120, maybe 118, the check engine light started blinking. So when I was slowing down on the offramp, i mean, post-race lap... it stopped and everything was fine. Anyone have any ideas?
#2
trill recognize trill
Originally Posted by Bambo2888
Hey guys,
Well, I was seeing what the max was in my new 2000 tl-p (on a closed, certified track, of course.... ) and right at 120, maybe 118, the check engine light started blinking. So when I was slowing down on the offramp, i mean, post-race lap... it stopped and everything was fine. Anyone have any ideas?
Well, I was seeing what the max was in my new 2000 tl-p (on a closed, certified track, of course.... ) and right at 120, maybe 118, the check engine light started blinking. So when I was slowing down on the offramp, i mean, post-race lap... it stopped and everything was fine. Anyone have any ideas?
Could it be the tranny?
#5
Missing my Acura's
Originally Posted by crazym0nkey
Doesn't the check engine light come on if you stay in vtec for over 15 seconds in the same gear?
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#11
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CEL's do blink, and it means that the engine cannot prevent damage to itself. If the CEL is just on constantly, the computer can do some compensation.
At least this was my understanding.
At least this was my understanding.
#12
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pure adrenaline is right. If you looked up the code you would probably find something like cylinder #1 misfire.
That's caused by a clogged EGR port. get it cleaned, or clean it yourself.
The same thing happened with my car, i cleaned the EGR port/intake manifold, and the light never came back. and i know other people who had the same problem and cleaning the EGR port took care of it 100% of the time
That's caused by a clogged EGR port. get it cleaned, or clean it yourself.
The same thing happened with my car, i cleaned the EGR port/intake manifold, and the light never came back. and i know other people who had the same problem and cleaning the EGR port took care of it 100% of the time
#15
Pro
Originally Posted by mrsteve
Where the hell did you hear that
But I'm probably wrong so don't listen to me
#18
Senior Moderator
very easy. mine cloged also around 70k and i just did them again not that long ago
Post #4
http://www.acurainspired.com/forums...?showtopic=4003
start off by getting 3 or so cans of SPRAY carb cleaner and acouple small scrub brushes.
if your engine is any thing like the 2nd gen
baisicly you take the plastic engine cover off 4 10-mm bolts. then disconect the battery. they disconect the rubber hose that goes from the air box to the throttle body. continue to unplg any thing that goes to the intake (any plugins hoses) then there are 10 10mm bolts on the top plate (the part that sticks up thru the plastic engine cover) oull that straight up being carefull to not damage teh gasket. then there are like 8 bolts (12mm i think, i cant remember off the top of my head) then you are able to pull the upper part of the intake manifold off (double check before you pull straight up that every thing is disconected) then get your self a nice place to work and start cleaning. (stick a bag over the TB before you hose every thing down like in my pic to be safe)
it sounds like alot but its really easy should take about a hr to do
Post #4
http://www.acurainspired.com/forums...?showtopic=4003
start off by getting 3 or so cans of SPRAY carb cleaner and acouple small scrub brushes.
if your engine is any thing like the 2nd gen
baisicly you take the plastic engine cover off 4 10-mm bolts. then disconect the battery. they disconect the rubber hose that goes from the air box to the throttle body. continue to unplg any thing that goes to the intake (any plugins hoses) then there are 10 10mm bolts on the top plate (the part that sticks up thru the plastic engine cover) oull that straight up being carefull to not damage teh gasket. then there are like 8 bolts (12mm i think, i cant remember off the top of my head) then you are able to pull the upper part of the intake manifold off (double check before you pull straight up that every thing is disconected) then get your self a nice place to work and start cleaning. (stick a bag over the TB before you hose every thing down like in my pic to be safe)
it sounds like alot but its really easy should take about a hr to do
#19
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
very easy. mine cloged also around 70k and i just did them again not that long ago
Post #4
http://www.acurainspired.com/forums...?showtopic=4003
start off by getting 3 or so cans of SPRAY carb cleaner and acouple small scrub brushes.
if your engine is any thing like the 2nd gen
baisicly you take the plastic engine cover off 4 10-mm bolts. then disconect the battery. they disconect the rubber hose that goes from the air box to the throttle body. continue to unplg any thing that goes to the intake (any plugins hoses) then there are 10 10mm bolts on the top plate (the part that sticks up thru the plastic engine cover) oull that straight up being carefull to not damage teh gasket. then there are like 8 bolts (12mm i think, i cant remember off the top of my head) then you are able to pull the upper part of the intake manifold off (double check before you pull straight up that every thing is disconected) then get your self a nice place to work and start cleaning. (stick a bag over the TB before you hose every thing down like in my pic to be safe)
it sounds like alot but its really easy should take about a hr to do
Post #4
http://www.acurainspired.com/forums...?showtopic=4003
start off by getting 3 or so cans of SPRAY carb cleaner and acouple small scrub brushes.
if your engine is any thing like the 2nd gen
baisicly you take the plastic engine cover off 4 10-mm bolts. then disconect the battery. they disconect the rubber hose that goes from the air box to the throttle body. continue to unplg any thing that goes to the intake (any plugins hoses) then there are 10 10mm bolts on the top plate (the part that sticks up thru the plastic engine cover) oull that straight up being carefull to not damage teh gasket. then there are like 8 bolts (12mm i think, i cant remember off the top of my head) then you are able to pull the upper part of the intake manifold off (double check before you pull straight up that every thing is disconected) then get your self a nice place to work and start cleaning. (stick a bag over the TB before you hose every thing down like in my pic to be safe)
it sounds like alot but its really easy should take about a hr to do
#20
Moderator Alumnus
Originally Posted by Pure Adrenaline
TCS isn't functional at that speed.
I'm thinking it was probably a misfire code.
I'm thinking it was probably a misfire code.
#21
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Originally Posted by crazym0nkey
I swear I read a thread a long ass time ago where this guy let his wife drive the car, and she left it in sport shift and never shifted while driving on the highway. Thought I read something like his check engine light was blinking cause she was constantly in vtec.... or was it redline ... maybe it was redline, that makes more sense if the check engine light would come on?
But I'm probably wrong so don't listen to me
But I'm probably wrong so don't listen to me
VTec doesn't actually engage unless your at WOT. It can be above 5K but unless your foot is to the floor, it won't engage.
#22
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by Bambo2888
link doesnt work...
#23
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Originally Posted by JimmyTLS
VTec doesn't actually engage unless your at WOT. It can be above 5K but unless your foot is to the floor, it won't engage.
#24
Advanced
Flashing Check engine light can be alot of things, plug in a OBDII reading and see did your ECU store any code. Remember not all code will cause the check engine light to stay on.
#25
'99 Acura 3.2TL
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Originally Posted by JimmyTLS
VTec doesn't actually engage unless your at WOT. It can be above 5K but unless your foot is to the floor, it won't engage.
VTEC will always engage over the set RPM point. No matter if you're at WOT or not. It has nothing to do with throttle position.
#29
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by fla-tls
I heard VTEC won't engage if you're running 87 octane. It's because of the octane sensor in the tank!
#30
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Originally Posted by fla-tls
I heard VTEC won't engage if you're running 87 octane. It's because of the octane sensor in the tank!
umm.... i have nothing to say
#34
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by SSMTL01
will cleaning out the egr/intake mani give noticeable power gains/gas mileage improvements? My car has 124k and I'm pretty sure this hasn't ever been done.
#36
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by tommiesay
i went 140 MPH with my car.....nothing happen to my car....
#37
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Originally Posted by Pure Adrenaline
VTEC = 100% RPM-dependent
i-VTEC = throttle-dependent
i-VTEC = throttle-dependent
#38
Dragging knees in
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by seter
doesn't the computer monitor engine temp and oil pressure, and if it doesn't meet requirements it will not open the VTEC solenoid?
We were just talking about how each type of VTEC is engaged. Of course, that was assuming the engine was warmed up to operating temperature for VTEC to engage with proper oil pressure. Otherwise the PCM won't engage the VTEC oil solenoid.
Damn electronannies.
#40
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Originally Posted by JimmyTLS
VTec doesn't actually engage unless your at WOT. It can be above 5K but unless your foot is to the floor, it won't engage.