tried to google and search but found nothing. was looking up info on brakes being locked, came to a honda site that someone's brakes were stuck and was told to adjust the pushrod for the master cylinder that sometimes it gets out of place and locks up the calipers.. would this be the same for the TL? any DIY on how to adjust. been having an issue with 1 side of the front locking up, just trying to research before i go at it again.

 

It more than likely you have a sticking brake caliper

 

sorry forgot to mention everything is new. calipers, brake hardware, rotors, brake lines, and new pads.

 

Theres a way to test if its the hose or the caliper, If your having a problem on one wheel its most likely not the pushrod in the booster IMO, if it was then it would affect all the calipers.
Check and make sure that the hose is not tangled up or twisted, that can cause the issue your having. Let us know what you find.

 

Hey BoriTL, did this occur right after replacing the brake parts or was the car driven for awhile ? Were ya having any previous issues before doing the recent work ? Did ya properly bleed each brake on all 4 corner's ? Recheck your work !!!

 

Heres a video that can help, If you put new hoses chances are the one sticking is tangled and if not changed then its damaged internally and needs replacement.

 

Had no problems previously was just hearing the screech that it was time to change them. Drivers side was way more worn than passenger but the old calipers didnt want to retract so ended up just replacing everything. Only old part in there is the bracket. If i loosen a caliper than the other one ends up locking up and that one stays freely spinning. i also did flush the fluid with fresh fluid. Someone mentioned theres a filter on top of the ABS but not sure if that would effect anything.

This weekend i'll have another chance to go at it so gonna flush a whole bottle threw each side make sure nothing is clogged or blocking lines. Take everything apart lube it up again and hopefully i can start using my baby again.

 

One way you can check the calipers is jack up each wheel one at a time and have someone press on the brake. As soon as they take their foot off the brake pedal, you can then immediately try turning the wheel. It should turn freely right away. If not, remove that wheel and again hit that brakes and then loosen the bleeder. If it frees up right away then I would say the caliper is ok and then it would point to the brake line or something else prior to the flex line

 

I don't think its a fluid issue.
Have you checked both slide pins on the bracket ?
make sure they're not stuck and move back and forth easily.

 

brake lines are brand new, i dont think you can really put them in wrong cause when i was putting it in it flexes a certain way that would put stress on the line if put in wrong.

 

It can happen when a caliper is attached to the hose. Did you check the slide pins on the bracket ? since you mentioned that was the only thing that wasn't changed. If they're stuck you need to lube them up so they move freely.

 

So I redid everything and reflushed the lines emptying a full cylinder threw each wheel and used a different fluid. I also preloaded the calipers with fluid before attaching them. Bleed them and both actually turned after bleeding them. Took it for a spin slammed on the brakes a couple times but didn't really go far or fast as my gas light is on. Brakes were smoking and the rotors were nice and shiny put the car back on towers and was able to spin the wheels. I assume the smoke was from the pads wearing into the rotors? since I live on the coast everything tends to get rusty quick.

 

You replaced everything but didn't replace the master cylinder and booster correct? It would be odd if those two had anything to do with it. But I had an experience where I replaced pads, rotors and calipers on my Civic and the rears literally began to lock up as I was driving. That is, locking up without pressing the pedal and it got to the point the car was dragging the rear down the street (tires were not rotating as the fronts moved) Got the car towed and when I looked under the dash (because when the car got home the pedal was fine again and the wheels turned) it ended up being the locknut for the booster loosening, causing the booster pushrod to push against the MC's when vacuum is applied (when the car is on) and it was locking up the rear. I had to replace the rear rotors again because they were warped due to this. They were smoking and you could feel the heat once you walked next to the wheel. Once I adjusted it (with the tool meant for it) all was well again.


But if it is doing the same thing it did before you replaced the calipers, I would look into the slide pins and check out the caliper brakes to make sure the pins aren't rusted or seized into the brackets, otherwise it makes no difference to put new calipers on because they cant slide.


Did you break the pads in before you started slamming on the brakes? I would break them in first before doing that.

 

Did you clean the new rotors before putting them on ?
New rotors have a thin film of grease on them to protect them from rusting up on the auto parts shelf, your supposed to clean them with brake cleaner before installing them.
If you didn't then thats why the smoke is there and most likely the pads are contaminated by now, try spraying each rotor with some brake cleaner to get rid of the grease on them.

 

So jacked her up this morning bleed about 10 pumps each side and looks like there not sticking anymore. Took her for a spin got to about 70 didn't really feel a pull in either direction and had nice pedal feel to it. They were smoking a pinch but the car has been on stands for 6 months and I live on the coast so everything was a little rusty from sitting. I picked up my little boy up the street a minute ago and you can hear a little rubbing but assuming it's the rust coming off the rotors slowly. Changing oil an drain plug next.

 

surface rust is gone in a few normal uses
TORQUE is all important- too much will mess up calipers
every bracket bolt and caliper slide mount be correct

###did you do the required 2 ABS active stops from 45mph to stop
then rebleed
special tl order LF RF RR LR

pads worn more one side of car- often bad caliper due to fluid contamination- old age self destruction
other side did all the stopping and used up more pad

smoke from extreme use bedding brakes in or a caliper is hanging
should not do in normal use

 

bleeding,,helper pumps 4 times and holds pedal firmly,, if new helper place a thin block of wood under pedal arm- limit its travel- not to the floor!!!
that will kill a master cyl main seal
back to holding pedal - you open valve 1/4 turn and fluid comes out and down hose slightly, close valve
helper pumps 4 times and holds--blah blah

making a loop in drain tube or placing drain end in small bottle of clean brake fluid prevents sucking new air back up tube

 

did you replace everything BUT the master?
its kinda important
was old fluid black and watery-rusty looking?
calipers look destroyed inside of old ones?
= replace master

 

when i originally started the work back a couple months ago i had flushed the lines with cheap fluid and the fluid was brownish, the master cylinder filter had tons of particles in it so cleaned that up really well and flushed with fresh fluid but than had the new calipers still sticking.

So forward 4 months later cause really haven't had time and since i have wifeys car and bike wasn't really in a rush. So last weekend took everything apart, which most had rust built up since i live on the coast within a week things get rusty. I took the brackets and found a drill bit that match its size and ran it a couple times through the slider pin holes just to make sure rust wasn't built up inside. So greased up the slider pins really good, assembled everything back together and low and behold after bleeding them LF,RF,RR,LR and putting them back on the stands my tires are spinning freely. Went for a drive and came back was smoking a little probably cause of the built up rust on the rotors, put it up on stands, made sure wheels still spin, yes they did. went for another drive did ABS stops and bleed again. Haven't been able to drive long distance as car hasn't been registered for this year but have taken around the block a couple times and down a road going about 70 and didn't feel any pressure being applied or feel the steering shake or vibrate.