Keyless entry module
Can anyone tell me where the keyless entry module is in the 99 TL?
Every time I click my keyfob (which is brand new) it unlocks only the back doors but seems like it doesnt make enough power to unlock them completely. Front doors dont try to unlock at all.
Every time I click my keyfob (which is brand new) it unlocks only the back doors but seems like it doesnt make enough power to unlock them completely. Front doors dont try to unlock at all.
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Yeah when pigs fly. Lol
The only way for something like that to happen is for you to confuse the passenger multiplex with another electronic module. Meaning you unplug the wrong module and start testing on the wrong wire connector.
I would compare that to a doctor amputating the wrong arm. Does it happen? Yes. Will it happen? Mostly not.
If you don't understand you need to ask.
Plan B.
Don't test. Just replace the passenger mutiplex (PM). I'm 99% sure it's the PM.
There's a thread here just recently where someone had a ceiling lamp malfunction. He replaced the PM for like $10 or something from ebay I think.
Look for it in the 2g tl. Good info about the PM.
The only way for something like that to happen is for you to confuse the passenger multiplex with another electronic module. Meaning you unplug the wrong module and start testing on the wrong wire connector.
I would compare that to a doctor amputating the wrong arm. Does it happen? Yes. Will it happen? Mostly not.
If you don't understand you need to ask.
Plan B.
Don't test. Just replace the passenger mutiplex (PM). I'm 99% sure it's the PM.
There's a thread here just recently where someone had a ceiling lamp malfunction. He replaced the PM for like $10 or something from ebay I think.
Look for it in the 2g tl. Good info about the PM.
The only absolute certain way to prevent PCM damage is to disconnect the motors from the wire looms before doing any testing.
DO NOT apply a +12V test voltage to the motors while they are connected up to the PCM wiring, or the PCM MAY GET FRIED.
Once the motors are isolated, apply +12V and ground to each single one of them to see if it locks/unlocks, then switch polarity and see if it is does the opposite.
DO NOT apply a +12V test voltage to the motors while they are connected up to the PCM wiring, or the PCM MAY GET FRIED.
Once the motors are isolated, apply +12V and ground to each single one of them to see if it locks/unlocks, then switch polarity and see if it is does the opposite.
Yeah when pigs fly. Lol
The only way for something like that to happen is for you to confuse the passenger multiplex with another electronic module. Meaning you unplug the wrong module and start testing on the wrong wire connector.
I would compare that to a doctor amputating the wrong arm. Does it happen? Yes. Will it happen? Mostly not.
If you don't understand you need to ask.
Plan B.
Don't test. Just replace the passenger mutiplex (PM). I'm 99% sure it's the PM.
There's a thread here just recently where someone had a ceiling lamp malfunction. He replaced the PM for like $10 or something from ebay I think.
Look for it in the 2g tl. Good info about the PM.
The only way for something like that to happen is for you to confuse the passenger multiplex with another electronic module. Meaning you unplug the wrong module and start testing on the wrong wire connector.
I would compare that to a doctor amputating the wrong arm. Does it happen? Yes. Will it happen? Mostly not.
If you don't understand you need to ask.
Plan B.
Don't test. Just replace the passenger mutiplex (PM). I'm 99% sure it's the PM.
There's a thread here just recently where someone had a ceiling lamp malfunction. He replaced the PM for like $10 or something from ebay I think.
Look for it in the 2g tl. Good info about the PM.
Once you unplug the PM that servers the connections to the acutuators, door switches, and transmitter.
You are only testing the actuators... A10, B10, B11. There is nothing else on that circuit. How is it going to fry anything if there is noting else connected to it?
3rd diagram (driver actuator & pass actuators)
You are only testing the actuators... A10, B10, B11. There is nothing else on that circuit. How is it going to fry anything if there is noting else connected to it?
3rd diagram (driver actuator & pass actuators)
The only absolute certain way to prevent PCM damage is to disconnect the motors from the wire looms before doing any testing.
DO NOT apply a +12V test voltage to the motors while they are connected up to the PCM wiring, or the PCM MAY GET FRIED.
Once the motors are isolated, apply +12V and ground to each single one of them to see if it locks/unlocks, then switch polarity and see if it is does the opposite.
DO NOT apply a +12V test voltage to the motors while they are connected up to the PCM wiring, or the PCM MAY GET FRIED.
Once the motors are isolated, apply +12V and ground to each single one of them to see if it locks/unlocks, then switch polarity and see if it is does the opposite.
I wish I would of saw this before. I somehow didnt see this post and I think I just fried the new one. Front door actuators are bad. At least there are plenty of 2g TL in my local junkyard.
There's also an electronic module in the door too don't forget that. That controls mostly the operation of the windows.
Windows work fine. The doors will unlock but they wont lock with the button. Ill probably order some actuators from Acura and then make sure that the module didnt get fried.
Ill go ahead and do that. Also is the keyless reciever unit part of the MP?
Last edited by thatguy2; Aug 9, 2015 at 01:28 PM.
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