Keyless entry module

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Old Jul 14, 2015 | 03:03 PM
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Exclamation Keyless entry module

Can anyone tell me where the keyless entry module is in the 99 TL?
Every time I click my keyfob (which is brand new) it unlocks only the back doors but seems like it doesnt make enough power to unlock them completely. Front doors dont try to unlock at all.
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Old Jul 18, 2015 | 03:00 PM
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99-01 keyless module is in the passenger multiplex unit. Which is attached to the passenger fuse box.
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Old Jul 18, 2015 | 07:22 PM
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Bad door lock/unlock actuators ?
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Old Jul 18, 2015 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Edward'TLS
Bad door lock/unlock actuators ?
They could be I havent checked them. I saw somewhere else that these symptoms can mean a fried module, but I want to make sure and diagnose it correctly
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Old Jul 18, 2015 | 10:12 PM
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Do front lock n unlock using switch at front lt n rt doors?
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 01acls
Do front lock n unlock using switch at front lt n rt doors?
No they dont. I have to use the key from the outside.
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 07:59 PM
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<br/>Perform test A10-B11 & A10-A11 below... pic 2. If actuators work the passenger multiplex is defective.






Last edited by 01acls; Jul 19, 2015 at 08:05 PM.
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 01acls



<br/>Perform test A10-B11 & A11-B11 below... pic 2. If actuators work the passenger multiplex is defective.





I wasnt expecting this. Thank you very much im sure this will help
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 08:10 PM
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Test...

A10

B11

A11
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Old Jul 20, 2015 | 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 01acls
Test...

A10

B11

A11
Now is there any danger of me frying my PCM from this. I want to be extra careful.
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Old Jul 20, 2015 | 02:04 PM
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Yeah when pigs fly. Lol

The only way for something like that to happen is for you to confuse the passenger multiplex with another electronic module. Meaning you unplug the wrong module and start testing on the wrong wire connector.

I would compare that to a doctor amputating the wrong arm. Does it happen? Yes. Will it happen? Mostly not.

If you don't understand you need to ask.

Plan B.

Don't test. Just replace the passenger mutiplex (PM). I'm 99% sure it's the PM.

There's a thread here just recently where someone had a ceiling lamp malfunction. He replaced the PM for like $10 or something from ebay I think.

Look for it in the 2g tl. Good info about the PM.
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Old Jul 20, 2015 | 03:39 PM
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The only absolute certain way to prevent PCM damage is to disconnect the motors from the wire looms before doing any testing.

DO NOT apply a +12V test voltage to the motors while they are connected up to the PCM wiring, or the PCM MAY GET FRIED.

Once the motors are isolated, apply +12V and ground to each single one of them to see if it locks/unlocks, then switch polarity and see if it is does the opposite.
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Old Jul 20, 2015 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 01acls
Yeah when pigs fly. Lol

The only way for something like that to happen is for you to confuse the passenger multiplex with another electronic module. Meaning you unplug the wrong module and start testing on the wrong wire connector.

I would compare that to a doctor amputating the wrong arm. Does it happen? Yes. Will it happen? Mostly not.

If you don't understand you need to ask.

Plan B.

Don't test. Just replace the passenger mutiplex (PM). I'm 99% sure it's the PM.

There's a thread here just recently where someone had a ceiling lamp malfunction. He replaced the PM for like $10 or something from ebay I think.

Look for it in the 2g tl. Good info about the PM.
I understand perfectly but i heard stories about some people testing modules and frying PCMs. That has got me a little paranoid and I wanna make sure i dont do the same mistake.
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Old Jul 20, 2015 | 06:02 PM
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Once you unplug the PM that servers the connections to the acutuators, door switches, and transmitter.

You are only testing the actuators... A10, B10, B11. There is nothing else on that circuit. How is it going to fry anything if there is noting else connected to it?

3rd diagram (driver actuator & pass actuators)
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Old Jul 20, 2015 | 06:51 PM
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BTW I suggest you test the actuators to make sure they're not defective bc if one is defective that could fry the replacement PM.
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 04:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Edward'TLS
The only absolute certain way to prevent PCM damage is to disconnect the motors from the wire looms before doing any testing.

DO NOT apply a +12V test voltage to the motors while they are connected up to the PCM wiring, or the PCM MAY GET FRIED.

Once the motors are isolated, apply +12V and ground to each single one of them to see if it locks/unlocks, then switch polarity and see if it is does the opposite.
FYI: The motors are not connected to the pcm. They are connected to the passenger multiplex, a totally different part.
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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 01acls
BTW I suggest you test the actuators to make sure they're not defective bc if one is defective that could fry the replacement PM.
I wish I would of saw this before. I somehow didnt see this post and I think I just fried the new one. Front door actuators are bad. At least there are plenty of 2g TL in my local junkyard.
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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by thatguy2
I wish I would of saw this before. I somehow didnt see this post and I think I just fried the new one. Front door actuators are bad. At least there are plenty of 2g TL in my local junkyard.
It depends on how it's defective. If it's a short it may but if it's a continuity problem then no.

There's also an electronic module in the door too don't forget that. That controls mostly the operation of the windows.
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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 01acls
It depends on how it's defective. If it's a short it may but if it's a continuity problem then no.

There's also an electronic module in the door too don't forget that. That controls mostly the operation of the windows.
Windows work fine. The doors will unlock but they wont lock with the button. Ill probably order some actuators from Acura and then make sure that the module didnt get fried.
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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 12:35 PM
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You really should test the actuators by them self. That's the only way to be sure. Either at the door or through the MP as noted in post #8... "A11".
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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 01acls
You really should test the actuators by them self. That's the only way to be sure. Either at the door or through the MP as noted in post #8... "A11".
Ill go ahead and do that. Also is the keyless reciever unit part of the MP?

Last edited by thatguy2; Aug 9, 2015 at 01:28 PM.
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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 02:05 PM
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I don't think it's a reciever problem bc the other doors are responding.

Yes/no.

99-01 - yes MP

02 & 03 - no stand alone.
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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 01acls
I don't think it's a reciever problem bc the other doors are responding.

Yes/no.

99-01 - yes MP

02 & 03 - no stand alone.
Yeah I know it has nothing to do with it but I was having trouble programming my fob. Just curious
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