My 03 TLS has 31,000 miles so after reading here about the DIY tranny fluid change I thought I'd give it a go today. Wow, it was easier than changing the oil. I drained and replaced 3 quarts 2 times. The first time the drain plug magnet had a fair amount of very very fine shavings on it and the fluid was a brownish color, with just a barely noticable red tint when taken into the sun. (the fluid has never been replaced and I do have the oil jet kit installed)

After the 1st change, i drove around for about 7-10 minutes then drained again. This time there was only 2 small metal shavings on the magnet and the oil was much more red.

Since I'm driving to Las Vegas this weekend I am going to do one more drain and replace this week before I leave. So as much as possible of the fluid has been replace.

Shifting does seem a little more smoother now!

 

congrats

 

 

How do you refill the fluid with the oil jet? I found some instructions with cars that didn't have it installed but I also have the oil jet. Appreciate any help. Thanks I would assume there is a top or something to take off but I can't get to my car right now and probably need some advice anyway.

 

there is a small bolt that holds the bracket to the oil jet. you remove the bolt, and pull the oil jet straight up and fill thru the hole. you wont screw up the oil jet or the reinstalation, it can only go in 1 way and cant be damaged.

 

Sorry for the dumb question but don't you refill the fluid through the filler tube?

 

You mean through dipstick hole? You could it takes longer though.

 

You can fill it thru the dipstic hole but that takes forever.

there is a filler bolt that is much faster to fill thru

 

Totolly agree with oil jet way. Much much faster refilling.

 

good stuff. when i first did mine it felt a lot better afterwards too

 

its a old thread but anybody heard or know if its true about changing the fluid when the car has high miles or never been changed before because it can cause problems i was told to just add if needed

 

Of course you need to change high mileage fluid. If it's broken down and dirty, it ain't doing its job. But what people don't realize, is that you must change it in small increments spaced apart (timewise)....and not in one shot! Just do one drain and fill (3 liters approx.) and drive it for 3 or 4 weeks. Then do the other 2 drains the same way. This way you've done your 3x3 over a span of a few months and allowed the tranny to acclimate to the new fluid. Then you can do a drain with every, or every other oil change.

 

there's a lot opinions out there
http://www.trustmymechanic.com/transslip.html

 

the tl transmission tends to react better at high mileage with a gradual change.

stop slip, flushes, non-honda fluids (besides redline and amsoil) tend to do more harm than good.

the transmission was designed to have gavity drains (per service manual)

 

NOTE the trans will drain from 3 to 3.4 us Quarts at a time
depending on fluid temp and your patience

if you reill with 3 and are nearly half quart low = goodbye transmission

 

I also am wondering the same thing as victus1 is. On my car it seems like the tranny is starting to act up like if i drive sometimes it seems like its in Netrual. I got the car with 78k and the tranny fluid got changed at 68k. Right now the car has 88k and the fluid seems pretty dark. I am just wondering if bad transmition fluid would cause the transmition to act up?

 

If it's revving higher than normal before it shifts, then the clutches may be slipping. It sounds like your tranny may go soon. I would look at some options for a replacement before it dies - perhaps try to locate a used Accord AV6 tranny. I'm not sure if changing the fluid at this point will help....it has helped some, but killed the tranny for others. It's a toss-up. But if you do drain it, try draining only 2 quarts at a time and drive it for several weeks and see what happens....it's up to you.

 

what are your thoughts on draining the entire transmission fluid, not just 3.1 qts... as done in this youtube video on an Honda.

 

You can do that but the 3x3 does the same thing... I think for some reason the 3x3 is Better.

 

Ok, I need to look up what 3x3 means. Thanks

 

3 x 3 is Changing the ATF:
3 Times x 3 Quarts

Basically do a ATF change then in 1 Week Change the ATF Again the 1 Last time and Vuala! You got yourself 100% Brand New Oil in even in the TQ.

Doing what the video does you change all ATF at the Time but if Your Oil is too Dirty changing all Oil with Brand New will get Contaminated as Soon it enters the Trans.

A 3x3 Cleans the Oil becouse it get Swaped each time you Change the Oil.

 

Cool. simple enough. thanks for explaining

 

someone explain a 3x3

 

It is explained above.....

 

So I have owned my 03 TL since 2006 and never changed the ATF! I also do not know when last it was changed. It has almost 159,000 on it. So I bought 9 ATF from Honda and took it to some oil change place and the guy refused to change it. Well, his reasoning is changing the ATF will dislodge loose metal fragments from wear and tear and would eventually cause slippage of the parts. In other words, it is better not to change the ATF. So I need to do some further research into this. Any ideas?

 

How many miles were on it when you got it?

Also, here's a paragraph via this site:

 

I'm not sure, but it might have been just over 100K miles.

 

I'm no expert on this, but I did my first 3x3 a few months ago at 207,000 miles on my '01 CL (original trans). I bought it with 70,000 miles, and it does have the oil jet kit installed from the previous owner.

It was starting to slip and jerk a bit and I knew it needed done anyways. The fluid was not low at all but it was nasty and recently had the burnt smell (I check it during every oil change).


Long story short the thing is running like a dream again with no slipping or jerking anymore. It was an immediate fix. There were very little metal shavings on the magnet the first change, and basically none on the following changes. I've put about 5,000 miles on it since, including four 14-hour straight drives to Florida and back.

I've heard doing a full flush can be bad, but once again, not an expert. I just know the 3x3 worked great for me and it was very easy

 

Thanks Scottman, it seems the problem is only with 2nd gen TLs.

 

Hi, I'm unable to find the DIY tranny fluid change; I'd appreciate a pointer to that DIY. Thanks!

 

There are a couple of ways to do it. I do it the hard way.

Drive up on ramps [I wing it without ramps].

The trans drain plug has a recess within it to a 3/8" ratchet. The first time I opened mine, I couldn't. So I went for an oil change [at Acura, and asked them to look around while it was on the loft], and asked them to crack the plug loose. They did, and it was still pretty tight, but whatever.

You open the drain plug with a collection pan below. The bigger the pan, the better. 6 quart is fine. Three, or a little more than three quarts will come out.

Remove the dipstick for airflow while the pan is draining.

Fish out the plug and wipe it clean on a towel. Observe that the end of it is a magnet. It picked up metal sludge and whatnot during operation.

Restore the plug.

Now, since I don't feel like dealing with the 2nd gear oil jet, which is installed in the oil fill plug, I fill through the dipstick. It takes longer, but I've rigged up a tube and large funnel, and can dump the better part of a quart into the funnel at a time. My car has only taken three quarts every time I've done it, do be at the right level.

Drive around for a day or so, and repeat. And a third time. You'll notice the fluid is clean-looking and smelling by the third time. Ad it'll seem like it is driving more smoothly.

The local Honda dealer gives me 25% off parts and fluids. Doesn't hurt to ask.

 

Wait what? How's that..?

 

Thanks! I suppose the trans drain plug is near where the dip stick ends, seen from under the car.

 

I believe they're basically the same car besides the obvious. Same trans



Yep, can't miss it. Just get your ratchet like Sperry said and find the hole

No ramps needed, but you'll probably need a big breaker bar and a quality ratchet. I had to find an older ratchet...two of the newer ones I used would slip internally trying to break it

 

It is the only plug under the car that has a square inletted recess, that I've seen, on the side of the transmission. When the ratchet head is inserted, the ratchet handle will dangle straight down to the pavement. Facing the front of the car, it will dangle maybe . . . two feet past the bumper, to the right of center.

Even after the dealer had "loosened" it up for me, the first time, I had to break it using a 4x4, which I'd slide into the ratchet at high velocity. It took a couple of tries.

I don't close it in as Atlas a fashion as the dealer had done, but it is still plenty tight. Usually I have to nail it with the heal of my foot to break it again.

Unless you get the car up on ramps, you will have -zero- room for any breaker bar. Unless you are super-smart, and come up with a bar with a right-angle receiver for the ratchet [hey, I had an *idea*].




#7 = filler plug
#8 = drain plug. You can make out the magnet extension on the plug.

 

Just did the first change of 3x3 and made a lot of mistake. I intercepted the outpour with a container stupidly under the drain plug but the outpour shot horizontally and missed the container for 1 second, enough to make my entire right shoulder soaked.
After putting in 3 quarts I checked the level with the dipstick and it showed way way overfilled, why? should I let out some or can I drive a little until the second round of 3x3?

 

If your car is not a level surface you will get false readings. Otherwise, sometimes it may take a little under 3qts to be on the mark.

 

Sounds like you need to level the car and drain again, then add the 3 quarts. Should be fine. Don't drive with it overfilled. This is why I didn't bother with ramps.

This also reminds me, I did jack the front left of the car up to have more room for the breaker bar to work.

 

same basic trans but with an extra clutch pack for extra holding power...in the type S cars......

 

apart from on a level surface how do you check the atf level correctly? with running engine? hot atf? in P or N position?

Thanks!