Just Installed My Irotors Today On My Car (1999 Tl) And They Seem To Be Warped ,as I Can Feel A Vibration In The Steering Wheel,does This Vibration Go Away After Time,any Help Or Anwers Would Be Great..thankx Danny...

 

Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhitttttttttttttt!!! How bad is the shaking in the steering wheel??? If you are experiencing this over 60-70 MPH then it is normal, but if you are experiencing it like I am, which is at about 15-20 MPH, then it's not normal. And I mean normal as in, when at highway speeds during break in, the pads need to bed into the rotor. That shaking will disappear in about 3-5 days of easy driving.

You may have gotten screwed like me Danny. My new set are on their way already. Let me know if yours continue to shake in the wheel. If they do, I'll get you a new free set of fronts. The rears are probably fine.

 

it should go away, its the slots wearing in. mine felt like they were slightly warped for the first couple days of driving (slow or fast speeds). once i had the rotors and pads broken in it went away. smoot as butter now

 

I had the same issue and thought mine were warped also, steering wheel shake at around 40-50mph. After the 2nd day they were nice and smooth. Remember NO hard braking for the first 300-500 miles, so you can "bed" the new pads and rotors correctly. I have IROTORS + Axxis MetalMaster Pads

 

can't believe this crap. my irotors seems to have warped!!!!!! anyone else experience this?

 

25k on mine and they are is great shape. are they brand new? have you bed them in

 

I've had mine now for almost 30,000kms and no problems... they did shake like crazy when installed... but after 2-3 days it went away.

 

I did bed them, at least I thought I did. I believe I got 2k on them. They are starting to shake when braking. I thought someone else had the same problem.

 

Thats normal? I have EBC/Rotora...at 120mph hitting the brake I have no wheel vibrating...So at regular highway speeds it is smooth sailing.

Check your alignment, and make sure your wheels are balanced...

I had shaking and vibrating at 60-70 mph with shit stock.

peace.

 

I take it no one else has experience this. I may have gotten a bad rotor for it to warp.

 

Nope...mine are warped too!!!

They shake consistently when braking from 110-120km/h. I will be replacing irotors, and will never buy these garbage rotors again...

I'm gonna be going for the rotora slotted/drilled rotors, and EBC pads.

If you are careful for the first 400-500 miles and then bed them in properly, you shouldn't have a problem

Sorry about this warping issue. Had I known, I never would have held the groupbuy. In fact, I just got into a huge argument with irotors in regards to this, and they are not willing to compensate me in any way, nor will they compensate anyone from the GB.

I'll know for next time, and for everyone one else in the future...Irotors Suck Ass!!!

I hope the woman who I spoke with at irotors sees this post

 

45,000 miles on my irotors and they are as smooth as glass. and i beat on mine!. proper break in on ony rotor is necessary. i have warped a brembo big brake kit with in a few thousand miles . so any rotor can and will warp

 

I always thought so too, until I read this:

http://stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm

What do you think?

 

No hard braking??
Here's the proper bed-in procedure

 

Listen up people. Your rotors are not warped.
Let me guess, you bought the rotors and slapped them on the car right?
Rotors need to be cut with kwik lathe that attaches to the car on a lift.
This method of cutting rotors makes sure the rotors are true to the hub.
Car are not perfect or spin perfectly true. This will solve any brake shimmy problem.
Ask the dealer to do it or if you know some one with a kwik lathe.

 

Dude, the rotors come directly from the manufacturer and no cutting of the rotor is necessary. IMO, any rotor that needs to be machined before installation is a rotor I don't want on my car. I have installed several different brands of rotors on car, and never did one of them need to be cut before using. Rotora doesn't recommend this, nor does irotors...

where are you getting your information from?

 

I'm just telling you what can solve the problem.
Call your rotor people and see what they say. Not what the box or package says.
They will agree with me hands down, cutting the rotors when they're on the car is the way to go....dude.

 

Before this breaks out into a huge argument, can someone clarify if this is correct? Sorry man, but I have never heard of this rule of cutting "new" rotors. They should come ready to be mounted on the car right out of the box, no modifications required.

 

irotors are known sometimes to be warped. I lot of members here who bought irotors thru a group buy had warping problems.

you DO NOT need to cut brand new rotors. Rotors specifically made for our cars are made just for the TLs, such as Rotora. Its just take out of the box and put them on.
When you install the rotors, make sure that after removing your old ones that the area is clean, without rust, and surface is smooth.

llbrando I have no clue where you get your info from.

 

dude your wrong. i have never had a rotor issue. and have never had or heard of doing that. i do alot of driving/racing and no one does that. the proper way to get rotors to last is NOT to bed the pads in riight away. you want to heat cycle your rotors with norma daily driving being gentail on them. then AFTER 300-500 miles THEN you bed the PADS in. doing so before the rotors have cycled will cause them to be more prone to warping. "cutting" them as you refer has nothing to do with it.. i have talked to brembo on many occasions about rotors that i have used on my car that i raced, and NEVER once has that ever come up. they way i described is the way brembo had told me, not to mention many other racers.

 

Who's wrong now buddy!

I told you, I have installed and bed in half a dozen sets of rotors. Of those half a dozen, two of those sets have lasted 100k km on one set of rotors. I think that if they lasted that long, I installed and bedded them properly. Rotora doesn't even expect the rotors to last that long, and they did.

Do the math dude, cutting performance rotors before installing them is unheard of.

End of story...

 

yes all can (its really not warping bt to type out different types of glazing and buid ups is too long. every one just refers to it as warping. the key is PROPER break in of the rotor first.

 

Okay dude...chill! Whoah.. it's just a place to discuss and pass info back and fourth...not a big 'I'm-right/you're-wrong/told-ya-so' fight. Take it easy and enjoy...

 

it's a little annoying when a noob comes along and swears that what he says is correct, and is not willing to listen to anyone else, that's all.

I just wanted to prove my point, and considering he came back twice telling me that my info was incorrect, I think he should go and re-check his info, because whichever source he is going by is wrong...

 

Open forum...open discussion. Everyone is allowed to view their opinions. Now whether or not those opinions are valid....let's just take each with a grain of salt.

 

Totally agree! Sometimes I think people think a new person to the *forum* equals a new person to the world of cars!! Why would one assume that must be the case?!

A new member might not have the same 'credibility' or popularity yet, but they could have 25 years of knowledge and experience in automotives or mechanics that *you* don't have. You have no idea who is behind the computer screen. They might know more than you even if they only have 3 or 24 or 120 posts on a-tl. The number of posts has nothing to do with the amount of knowledge they possess. Everyone here was a new member at one time. No need to make personal attacks just because you disagree.

My above opinion has nothing to do with *this* specific post per se, but just a general observation. Keep an open mind and if you are unsure, do your own research to back it up.

Enjoy!!

 

Wow guy's just trying to help out with the original problem of brake shake, vibration, shimmy or what have you. No need to hound me.
Like I said, the new rotors are probally fine, it's the car that isn't straight and true.
So you would need to resurface the rotors while they're on the car to match the spin of the hub thats all I was trying to say. Sorry but I just can't explain it better than that.

 

you guys are right, sorry about lashing out at you.

I've had a rough week, so I was a little edgy when posting. Nothing a couple drinks couldn't take care of. I'm down in kingston this weekend hanging out with a buddy, so we're gonna lighten the stress a little, and take a few more shots!!

later guys.

 

Now that sounds like fun.

 

I think I may have not bedded my rotors correctly. When I read the instructions, I don't remember it saying you have to brake softly for the first 300-500 miles. I thought you were suppose to brake them in at interval speeds, etc 90-60, 60-40 but never stopping completely.

In reference to the cutting then before mounting them suggestion, I've worked on cars and trucks for over 15yrs and I never heard of such a thing.

 

The proper bed in procedure should be on a sheet that came with your pads. Different manufacturers have different procedures, so there is no universal bedding procedure.

The Tire rack has a listing of bedding procedures for different manufacturers. They vary WIDELY from no hard braking for 500 miles to 20+ hard near-stops to heat up the pads. Follow the instructions that came with the pads - or if no instructions came with the pads follow the Tire Rack manufacturers listing.