So I'm getting ready to replace my spark plugs and my friend says that since I'm over 100,000 miles (115,000) I should replace the coil packs as well. He says that they're only designed to last 100,000 or so. Is there any benefit to replacing these now even though I'm not getting any CEL codes? Thanks for any thoughts on this.

Oh yeah its an 01 if that matters

 

Do not replace them unless you have a CEL. They are not cheap. They'll run you over $70 A PIECE ($420 total) if you buy from a dealer.

I've gone 160K+ and only replaced one so far.

 

^^same.

i had one go on me last december when it was misfiring. the shop tried to get me to buy all new ones cause the engine needs a "tune up" i told them to get lost, i'm doing an engine swap anyway.

 

I had all original on my motor with 220k on them. There was nothing wrong with them.

 

anything that can be done to prolong their 'life'? or is the only thing you can really do is not drop them when changing sparkplugs?

 

treat the coils down realllly gentle when changing spark plugs

Question for kris and piggy-anyone who is electrical knowledge
what do you think of using dielectric grease/ electrical contact grease/ spark plug boot grease on the plug top for the TL?

I use it on the bike with plug wires- there is dissimilar metal to metal inside the coil connection to plug too right??...

Before the plug change:
I suggest seafoam 1 can in just under half tank of gas, and 1/2 can or so thru the intake manifold/TB master vac port
Give the plugs a clean working environment and make the car run its best!!

NGK Iridium IX- with a thin layer of plug anti sieze grease on the middle threads
DO NOT get any on the tip or starting threads- too easy for it to get inside and back on the piston or foul the plug--defeating your good seafoam job!

 

I do it every time I change plugs. Can't hurt.

 

Thanks for the help guys. Glad to see there's no point in spending the extra $300 or so on new coils

 

Same here

 

Does anyone know how to tell which one is bad?

I have a check engine code but it says sporadic misfire and doesn't give a specific cylinder.

 

You can unplug one coil at a time at its electrical connector while the car is idling. The bad coil is the one that does not change the way the car runs when unplugged. All good ones will make it run worse (as you will now be running on 4 cylinders)

 

yes it is a good idea to use di-electric grease at all electrical junctions, even fuses. Personally, I am almost finished with removing the physical contact connections and instead soldiered the connections, this basically makes it a continual wire for all practices and purposes, removing the oxidized layer and reducing the impedance which gives more accura'te data to the computer(pun intended). Along with the cold air intake I added to my 2004 Acura RL 3.5L and the COPPs & fuel injectors & O2 sensors, MAP, and TPS soldiered I have gained a not so bad true 30HP. Also I remember a question of what can be done if anything to make them last longer, yes, change your spark plugs. If the gap is "widened" by loss of material as seen mostly in copper center electrode plugs, this puts more effective internal resistance to the coil pack, at some point the high voltage will over come the internal insulation of the coil and it will arc intermitantly , or short down altogether.

 

Yes, change them, an improper gap stresses them and over time they will burn out because of this. Manufacturer Specs=million mile operation.

 

223k on my '03TL - original coils, and exhaust, and struts and so on.... Did replace two crap transmissions along the way.