Still no need for coolant to go through the IACV, you replaced it so you must know what it does! The coolant line is to help in freezing areas where the cool air could get the IACV stuck.. Same with the VSA Throttle Body.

 

Coolant goes thru the TB to help keep it warm in the cold states.

 

There is no need to do any of that. You dont need coolant going to the IACV. Just loop the blue line to the orange right where they come off the crossover pipe on the engine.

I still dont know why he removed the warmer. Did he loop the coolant lines that normally went to it? It wasnt hurting the trans, nor is the cooler helping the problem the trans has

 

Meh, well as a former employee of Honda Manufacturing of Alabama, (we build the Honda Ridgeline, Pilot, Odyssey & the Acura MDX) I can tell you that's not why their there. If that was the case the units destined for places like Russia would be the only ones that they went through all the trouble of designing and implementing those coolant ports and designing a way to get coolant to them both. You don't see engine block heaters on most cars in the US right? And the IACV has a magnetic feature as well that helps the actual valve "float" inside it's housing so it doesn't actually come into contact with the inside of the chamber. Pretty ingenious actually. I'm not saying I know why they made them that way, my best guess is to help them cope with heat from the engine since both get coolant from a port before the coolant is pumped into the engine. But I could definitely be wrong. I just know how Honda engineers are, the guys from japan actually explained how a lot of the engines work in GREAT detail, why part"x" was made this certain way, why part "y" wasn't. So in having an insight as to how they think that would be my best guess. They wouldn't put it on a car for the lower 48 that will never need it. They do put extra stuff on for models going to say.... Alaska or Russia, even some parts of china. But if it wont need it 99% of the time it wont be on there. Would be easy to just order an IACV from their suppliers that doesn't have the coolant ports if it didn't need them and cheaper im sure and believe me, in a Honda plant saving money is KING. Even the assembly line runs until it breaks, they bandaid it, runs until it breaks and so on until something MAJOR falls off or a robot hurls a car body through a paint booth wall (which I've seen happen) theyre not spending extra if they don't have to, on their cars or in their plants. They spend enough to make a good product but nothing more. Kinda like how I feel REALLY bad for the first 6 or 7000 people who bought an MDX! lol Lets just say there were ALOT of problems when we first started building the redesigned model. And a lot of cars went out with some problem never being fixed or being rigged up, a repair that will fail soon. Does anyone know where to get a hose that's bigger on one end than it is on the other?

 

He removed the warmer because the cooler replaces it. And sure it doesn't help the problem specifically but cooler ATF temps do contribute to it not failing as soon as the problem is gears or clutch packs overheating and failing. But yea the cooler sits where the warmer once was pulls ATF from there, sends it to the front of the car and through the little radiator before going back. Theres a noticeable difference in the temperature of the trans to me.... Used to be I couldn't work on it while hot, id have to wait because even the housing would burn the crap out of me. Now I can pull up and get to work. And hey, if it does go up in smoke I do still have the LIFETIME WARRANTY ON IT!!! He'll just fix it. for $1800 w/ a new center case which is what holds all three shaft bearings and the usual rebuild and the cooler that I didn't even ask for and the warranty you cant beat it. I haven't found a better deal anywhere and he's been doing our transmissions in particular since they first came out. He's very meticulous about his work and checks any work another mechanic does. lol I trust him WAYYYYYYY more that the stealership.

 

Oh and ummmmm THERE IS NO COOLANT PORT FOR THE THROTTLE BODY ITSELF> AND ALASKA WOULD BE THE ONLY STATE THAT WOULD EVEN COME CLOSE TO TEMPERATURES COLD ENOUGH TO CAUSE A PROBLEM. Youd want that to be cool not hot. The cooler the air is going through it the more efficient combustion is. Honda knows that.

 

And im sorry but since I reconnected this line I haven't had an idle problem since..... IN THE MIDDLE OF SUMMER! Idk guys, its possible im wrong like I said but the way it was explained to me by a Honda engineer from Japan is that cold temperatures ain't what its there for.....

 

^ I'm a Mechanic Engineer and I can tell you, Mechanically wise there is absolutely no reason for the A/F to go through the IACV or VSA TB otherwise preventing from being freeze stuck.

The only logical reason would be since Aluminum has a lower freezing point and both IACV and VSA TB are made from cast aluminum, any kind of humidity + cold air would get them INSTA STUCK this has happened to me here in SD a couple of times (Since our High Humidity % and our Cold Winters) to my TB before I bypassed those I had no issues what-so-ever.

Believe me, There is no other reason for the A/F to go through the IACV. It doesn't help it at all to work, It doesn't help the engine reach idle faster. Its only there to prevent freeze stucks. And you don't need to be in ALASKA and RUSSIA to have those. HUMIDITY + COLD WEATHER = ISSUES with Aluminum.


I have over 25K with my A/F Bypass with no issues what-so-ever in the IACV.

 

You do know that most of these types of systems are usually emissions related parts. You also do realize that cooling something with 200+ deg coolant isnt cooling it. And like i said before, coolant doesnt have to come in contact for it to warm/cool. Every thing is Aluminum which is a huge conductor of heat. And im glad you have worked on the manufacturing side and seen the inside of manufacturing, i have been working on the building side of motors and more for over 20 years. Removing coolant lines to the TB has been something people have been doing for since they started running systems with it. Many have been running with it removed on the TL since 99 with out issue. Even cars with carbs had heat tubes usually off the header to the air cleaner to help heat the air, warm air helps to atomizes fuel better, and to keep the cold air from freezing in the cold (one doesnt have to live in alaska for these systems, anywhere that drops below freezing).


The cooler does NOTHING to contributing to it not failing as soon. PERIOD. I had 5 failures with one. Fluid temp is NOT the problem. You could have fluid temps at 100 deg but it wouldnt help the problem. The problem is the LACK of fluid to the 3rd gear clutch pack drum.


You do realize that it doesnt have to go thru it fo the TB which is ALUMINUM and a great material for heat transfer.

 

I do understand all the things you have mentioned, I didn't mean any disrespect as I know you have ALOT of experience with these engines. But I didn't work in manufacturing, I was one of the engineers called in the engine department when a problem was found. The newer engines don't use this exact system anymore so my knowledge is limited on it. But do explain how warm fuel or intake air is better? Cooler air and fuel means it's more dense, which means you can put more of it into the combustion chamber. I also know that "coolant" in this sense isn't cool. In case you didn't notice I thanked you for every post you put in this thread and I thank you for your input. But I can't ignore the fact that my problem has disappeared ever since I reconnected that cooling line. Until today that is, but almost a month with no problems since connecting that line? Don't believe that's coincidence. Maybe Ill take your advice and disconnect both coolant lines from the IACV. But I've also noticed that when my car is trying to drag me through redlights because it's idling at 3k, if I go WOT and redline it through 2nd or 3rd gear, which I know isn't good for a number of things, the problem disappears??!?!? IDK what the hell is going on here, but fellow AZiner's, PLEASE FOR THE LOVE OF GOD HELP ME FIGURE THIS OUT ITS DRIVING ME NUTS!!!!!!!!! And fsttyms1 I'm very well aware of your reputation on this site and of your experience with this particular car. You are a PIONEER here. Please accept my apology for any disrespect. I meant none. Thank you for your help, please continue to help me figure this out, it just doesn't make sense. Ive done everything and then some the one would do to remedy this particular issue and it's still happening. I just don't get it. ANY help from ANYONE is sorely needed. I think I'll try the no "coolant" method. Just for shats and giggles. Who knows... but here in Alabama, humidity is always 80-100% most of the time and with winter coming I may make it worse. Thinking I may also start from scratch pull the manifold, replace that gasket, try all three IACV's I have, A/F, no A/F, everything.... please shoot me some ideas guys. Thanks everyone.

 

As far as "insta stuck" goes it's 70-80 degrees here.... don't think that's the problem.....

 

^ Then its not the problem of the Cooling Line either you can leave it by-passed.

 

Yeah, try starting from the very basics. Maybe even find some cheap used parts at the salvage yard ?
The engineers may attempt to build things to the best of their knowledge, but sometimes the real world ..... along with the passing of time, wear and neglect will eventually take a toll on any mechanical part.

Automobiles and their motors normally aren't engineered to last forever and on occasion, I personally think an intentional time bomb is planted to bring an individual back to the dealership for a new replacement vehicle.

 

" Yeah, try starting from the very basics. Maybe even find some cheap used parts at the salvage yard ?
The engineers may attempt to build things to the best of their knowledge, but sometimes the real world ..... along with the passing of time, wear and neglect will eventually take a toll on any mechanical part.

Automobiles and their motors normally aren't engineered to last forever and on occasion, I personally think an intentional time bomb is planted to bring an individual back to the dealership for a new replacement vehicle. "


VERY VERY TRUE. Luckily the crash victim you see in my avatar is an 01 CL-S, Mine is an 03 TL-S so plenty of spares lying around..... Ill keep you guys updated. BUT! If anyone has an epiphany on this matter PLEASE bring it to my attention because as I stated earlier... I went through EVERYTHING already. All gaskets, hoses, sensors all of it, and it was ALL in pristine condition. So using salvage parts meh.... maybe maybe not. Just is a lot of work for what i'm 99% sure isn't gonna make a difference. I think its something simple that i'm just missing.

 

And yup, that was the point.

 

Anyone know what the Absolute Intake Manifold Pressure should be? Ran OBDWiz on my car and it's showing from 3.3 to 4.2 psi at idle. Is that normal? Would that be a way to know if theres a gasket leak somewhere? And I do have an Injen CAI on the car as well if that matters

 

Bump

 

So if I completely cap off coolant going to the IACV I should be good. I would imagine less heat means less expansion of the metal the valve rotates in and given the tight clearance it has that may help??? Maybe? Just taking shots in the dark here.

 

Disconnected and capped all coolant lines to IACV today, hoping the cooler temp will help it function properly but i'm really still stuck with the same unknown problem.....