Hey. My Acura has been having some back to back hard issues with it. First it was the Fuel Pump Main Relay Circuit, it would shut the cars engine, not electric off randomly. Then the Negative Battery terminal cord was loose and rusted. Both problems were fixed after some additives (items). Then the car starts a new problem. This problem has some layers to it, ill explain the story on what was happening.

One day, I decided to turn on cruise control on a downward hill just to see how it would work, it worked. Throwing that in there IF that was a cause. But anyways, I started feeling the car jump and jerk while driving, so I went back home. Had my parents test the car, when they threw the car out of park into reverse the cars engine shut off. This problem went away pretty much a little bit afterwards but then a new problem came up. When I put the car in reverse, it would just shut the engine off, when in drive, it would JERK the car and make grinding metal noises but wouldn't shut off. Fast forward a week of untouched, the car it perfectly fine and the problem only grinds and jerks the car when reversing or idling. Then that problem went away within days. Car was pretty much perfectly fine but the only problems would be, at a stop light or stop sign, when in drive, but idling (foot on brake), it would grind once, jerk, once, then it was fine when I drove off. Then recently, the car jerked at a stop light, started grinding, I parked it, turned it back on, and threw it in drive, but this time it shut the engine off, just like how it would shut it off before butt in reverse. Now its having genuine clunk problems when switching gears, drive gear grinds so hard it shuts off the engine when idling, I have to throw it in neutral, but even then its not fast enough to stop it.

Basically that is the whole story dumbed down a little. Here's a run down on the story:

(Park and Neutral are always fine throughout this all, car revs fine, no problems in those gears)
1. In D and R jerks, D jerked harder, R shut off the engine
2. Both Clunked, shut off went away, D grinded harder
3. D and R seemed to be fine, would only start clunking when threw into R, then the clunk would be apparent for both gears
4. Both D and R are fine, only would clunk and grind ONCE at a stop light, sign, when idling
5 (PRESENT). Thrown into D, engine shuts off sometimes, grinds so hard until it shuts off the engine

Here's my uneducated and apparent guess. The car either transmission points are loose, broken, or other. Belt is bad. Other? Cruise control did all this?
What I have been researching. Spark plugs? Ignition Coil? Fuel Injector? Throttle Position Sensor? Fluid Level (good). Torque Converter? Idle Control Valve? Motor Mount? CV Join? Suspension (iffy)? Transmission Range Position Switch?

The car a couple years back had the code "P1705(1/1) 2. A/T Range Switch Gear Position Short 3. Transmission Range Switch Circuit Short" , but that never seemed to play in the issues until now...

Car Specs:
2003 Acura TL Type S
222k+ (I knowwww)
New Ignition Switch
New Fuel Pump
New Fuel Pump Main Relay Circuit
Fluids up to date

 

From what you described and before you I saw the picture of the error code I was thinking those are the items I would check first. Do you intend to do any wok yourself? Do you have a copy of the Service Manual? The range selection switch is located on the side of the transmission in front of the drivers side tire, near the front bottom of the transmission facing the drivers side quarter panel.

Manual download here.

You will need to download the file, it is about 820MB.

Forgot to mention there is safety switch in gear shift box that maybe acting up but I think that would be more of an on /off deal as it is supposed to stop you from starting the car when you are not in park or neutral .

 

Hello, so I replaced the switch gear. That didn't help. All the problems listed are still present, please help. This is such a weird problem...

 

Did you try measuring the continuity of the wires leading to the range switch? If there is a wire shorting it wouldn't matter if you put in a new part. One a slightly off topic note when you put in the range switch did you make sure it is adjusted corrected. Any slight rotation of the unit can cause a problem. One way to tell is to put the car in manual mode and see if you can shift through all gears (driving of course) and each of those gears should be displayed on the dash. If you only get a few of the gears displayed you need to slightly rotate the part until all gears become visible as you shift through them.

 

Hello, I am taking this to a shop in a few days. Do you have any other input on this situation IF its not the range position switch? I'm tryna gather a variety of answersssss