StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

So I bought NSX calipers and installed them about 2 weeks ago..
The tech that installed them kinked the line or summtin and the caliper was locked up w/o me noticing for like 20 miles and when i got home thw caliper was GLOWING RED the rim was soo hot I could not even take it off that night.
next day took the wheel off switched the line and the pads (the pads where like melted and rotor warped) and now its alot better but it still makes noise like rubbing, so i figured the caliper was compramised so i called rockauto said i think the caliper is bad blah blah so they said order a new caliper send the old one back the refund me.. (they just rebuild it) so i ordered caliper ,rotors,pads.. so I get the caliper in the mail.. I was gonna paint it first and then put it on cuz the calipers rusted so i painted the new caliper.
I was gonna paint the other one while on the car so I would not lose fluid!
after I was done painting the caliper I noticed that is was the driver side "L" and I ordered the passenger side "R" so I called rock auto to tell them.
The box has the correct # but wrong side!
So I was gonna just tell them they made a mistake and to send me the other side I will pay and just for it and they refund me the money for both when I send them both... Guess What they have no more right side to send me they fresh out... AND the will not take mine back cuz I painted it allready...
I have the worste LUCK with this car lately...

01tl4tl

call back and speak with a manager
Explain the situation and hopefully you painted it a decent color-
or they can easily sandblast like all the otherparts, but a MANAGER can make things happen

All ziners- suggest you use the 1995 Legend LS-C calipers to avoid the line length issue and other probs of getting a rare part
raybestos part# frc10627 and frc 10628
can use those or cross referance to other brands

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

01TL04TL - do you think all that heat from 20 miles would have damaged the caliper rubber parts? Cuz now since I replaced the hose the car drives fine but i still hear like a rubbing comming from that side but it might be the pads ( cuz i put used pads ) and the rotor is warped .. Do u think that heat messed the caliper up?
If i throw new (raybesto rotors and Akebono pads) u think the noise will go away?

TLer trash

If the dust boots aren't crispy, cracked, etc. you're probably ok. Gently pull on them and see if they are still flexible. To be really safe, you could get a kit, and rebuild it. If you aren't comfortable doing it, have a shop do it. The slow, tedious, cleaning part is already taken care of.

FirePR2002

that rotor could have warped because of the heat.

TheMegalodon

He already said the rotor was warped in his first post...
That's a shit situation you're in there Stoned. Hopefully you find a way to make it work out and 01tl4tl's advice helps.

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

They are accepting the Caliper back (I let it sit in paint remover ) and 99% of the paint came off so there I'm cool..
Im just gonna put these new rotors and pads on and hope for the best..
Hopefully the heat did not melt the rubber boots in the caliper..
When they pull the rotor and caliper off I will take a look at the rubber and make sure it looks fine..

totaledTL

Sitting in paint remover, depending on what it was, may have damaged the piston seals- whoops.

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

they are gonna rebuild it anyways!

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

Ok I replaced the Rotors (raybesto) and pads (Akebano) up front and the car still shakes when braking from a higher speed 60+ and brake medium to hard the car still shakes .. It used to shake in the steering wheel and the seats but now it seems like it shakes in the seats so that means the back rotors are warped..correct?

Anyone have back rotors warp b4?

Also when driving the casr makes a rubbing cis cis cis noise comming from the front, everything is brand new so what can be rubbing??

01tl4tl

cant blame the rear brakes yet- you have a contact rubbing noise in front that may cause vibration

Inside the calipers- was there a big spring plate that pushes the pads down slightly?
with the legend calipers I have seen some- not all- some cars have contact of the spring plate to outer edge of rotor,,if that area is painted it will scrape it off quickly
Remove that and noise goes away
Not a required part for our use

Are the wheels torqued to 80 and done correctly- just blasting the lugs on can set the wheel uneven against the hub
how is the alignment and tire condition and pressures
try rotating front to rear and see what happens

How did you bed the rotors and pads in- too aggressive can cause glaze which will make a shake, not enough bedding ....
Dragging caliper or misaligned could make noise- one was screwed up- why not both

Always suspect then inspect the most recent work for problems before diving in to unknowns on a guess

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

I thought it could be that metal plate that sits on top of the caliper that rubs the tops of the rotors.. I will take them off next time I have a chance..

It is OK if I take those metal plates off and just not use them ?? correct??

My back caliper was seized like 6 months ago when I was replacing the back brakes , The rubber around the piston came loose water got back there and rusted it out, so i sprayed some pb blaster in there and forced the piston back into place then about 2 -3 months ago I bought a back caliper from tweetGT in the for sale section and replaced it, the rotors where warped for awile but it might have been the back the whole tim e and I thought it was the front..

I feel the shaking in my but more then the wheel now b4 it was both so i belive it is comming from the back!

01tl4tl

so you replaced 1 rear failed caliper from water damage
Did you replace its mate on the other side?
Calipers should always be replaced in pairs of left/right

dont need that big clip,, not required for our car, the pads fit fine without it

TequiLa

iTrader: (3)

MOC Parts Wash rips through paint; i interned at a performance shop and they use that to take off paint off rebuilt trannies, oil off the floor, etc.

totaledTL

Was the replaced rear caliper a rebuilt or new one? If not maybe it was due for replacement too-
If you ran that stuck caliper that long it might have caused a warp rotor...
That spring clip thing was slightly bent on mine & made a light scraping sound. I just removed the caliper & tweaked it slightly to get it away from the rotor. I thought it might be there to help prevent pad rattles so I left mine on. No problems since.

01tl4tl

if the center spring fits its ok to run-
if it makes rotor edge contact- toss it
Some aftermarket ones are not exact build spec

You cant easily buy NEW calipers even from acura- everything is rebuilt units
The same honda rear caliper was used on models for over 20 years +

01tl4tl

if I read correctly- a rear caliper was siezed so a lube was used and drove another 3 months before replacing that 1 caliper
It had damage from torn boot- moisture and rust can be in system from that

replacement caliper was a used part
rear rotors were not replaced at that time?
In that case, I would expect rear rotor warpage if the caliper kept hanging up over the months before replacement--they are cheap- 15-25 each at parts stores
Not as critical as fronts, I use kragen or NAPA rotors

and replace the other sides caliper
Watch for the 3rd tab on inner pad for rear brakes
Some brands have an extra tab that must be ground off or interferes and contacts piston
will cause more brake shake!

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

Yes 0104 TL i did the rear brakes about 7-8 months ago (my times might be off by a couple of months) and at the time WE (me and the tech) notices my driverside rear rubber boot was off and all rusted up in there we put the new rotors and pads on and greased the piston up enough to push it back for a temp fix while I looked for anouther caliper.. found one about 3-4 months after and put it on (i remember when taking the old caliper off it was hard I had to hammer it off it was stuck on there good) so i did the new caliper with the same rotors and pads replaced 3-4 months B4.. My car shook the whole time BUT i just thought it was the fronts the whole time but i guess it was the backs!..

0104TL can u take a pick of that extra tab u r talkin about on the back pads cuz im about to order rotors and pads off rockauto and wanna make sure I get one w/o that tab i gotta shave off!

01tl4tl

you had a dead caliper and fooled yourself for a while,,that messed up the other parts

The correct pads for the rear brakes have 2 raised tabs in the backside of the inner pad
One has the squeeler attached by it, the other is at opposite end of pad and serves no known purpose
If there is a raised tab in the top edge- center,,take a grinder to it until its flush or slightly below,,any raised bit will make the pad sit crooked when pushed by the caliper piston

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

I really can't wait to fianally not have my car shake when braking hard, i forgot how a non warped rotored car feels under hard braking!
can i just cut the rotors (since they r only a year old) and use the same pads?
Or is the damage done? cut rotors new pads, new rotors new pads?

01tl4tl

for the low cost of rear rotors, and their thinness to start-
I would recommend new rotors and new pads
Assume heat has gotten the better of everything