Honda Transmission code for Acura TL swap
02-09-2020, 09:26 AM
#41
[QUOTE=onekam;16322035]Got her back today!!!! Drives great! The mechanic did everything that I asked for. Swapped out the range sensor, brackets, gaskets, filters, dipstick, etc. There is the slight notice in the steering being heavier, but that's a tradeoff that I can live with. To be clear, it's not the entire power steering function being removed, rather just an assist to it when the power steering rack gets looped. At least that's what he explained to me. And it's really only slightly noticeable. I don't even mind it really. There's still power steering, just not as much as before.
It downshifts so smoothly. I forgot how I felt like after all this time. I can not say enough great things about this guy. He has 30 years of experience and knowledge so I am so glad that I went to the right place to get it done.
Here are all the parts that I ordered in case someone in the future finds this thread:
1. O-Ring for the ATF fluid filter: 91301-P7W-003
2. for filling the top with fluid Bolt, Filler: 25614-PK4-000
4. o-ring that goes at the end of the torque converter: 91302-PGK-003
5. Rear main seal: 91214-P8A-A01
6. O-Ring for the ATF Warmer: 19435-P8E-A01 (x2)
7. O-Ring for the Passage Body: 91302-P7W-A00
8. Gasket for the Passage Body: 25812-P7W-A01
9. Pipe for Oil Jet Kit reversal: 25910-P7W-010 (if you have an oil jet kit installed. skip if not)
10. Axle seals: 91205-P0X-005, 91206-P0Z-005
11. Input shaft seal: 91207-P7Z-003[/QUOTE
]
Thank you for all the part numbers and information. I need to get this swap done as well. My 2005 TL Transmission with 155,000 miles has finally bit the dust. How does your car run today? Do you think I should pay to upgrade the translab kit? What is pipe oil jet ? Where do I find that item on my transmission?
What about the range sensor do I just swap it over from Accord V6 transmission or do I have to buy a new range sensor ?
Thank you
It downshifts so smoothly. I forgot how I felt like after all this time. I can not say enough great things about this guy. He has 30 years of experience and knowledge so I am so glad that I went to the right place to get it done.
Here are all the parts that I ordered in case someone in the future finds this thread:
1. O-Ring for the ATF fluid filter: 91301-P7W-003
2. for filling the top with fluid Bolt, Filler: 25614-PK4-000
4. o-ring that goes at the end of the torque converter: 91302-PGK-003
5. Rear main seal: 91214-P8A-A01
6. O-Ring for the ATF Warmer: 19435-P8E-A01 (x2)
7. O-Ring for the Passage Body: 91302-P7W-A00
8. Gasket for the Passage Body: 25812-P7W-A01
9. Pipe for Oil Jet Kit reversal: 25910-P7W-010 (if you have an oil jet kit installed. skip if not)
10. Axle seals: 91205-P0X-005, 91206-P0Z-005
11. Input shaft seal: 91207-P7Z-003[/QUOTE
]
Thank you for all the part numbers and information. I need to get this swap done as well. My 2005 TL Transmission with 155,000 miles has finally bit the dust. How does your car run today? Do you think I should pay to upgrade the translab kit? What is pipe oil jet ? Where do I find that item on my transmission?
What about the range sensor do I just swap it over from Accord V6 transmission or do I have to buy a new range sensor ?
Thank you
Last edited by Eternal 28; 02-09-2020 at 09:32 AM.
02-10-2020, 01:34 PM
#42
Burning Brakes
Hi Eternal, these are details for swapping the BAYA into a 2G TL, I'm sure that most of the details are the same with a 3G TL, but just in case they aren't I would encourage you to look in that specific forum for details.
I can add one piece of advice here though regardless of generation TL: don't just swap the rear main seal: buy the whole backing plate which has rear main seal and the oil pump o-ring that goes between the oil passage and the backing plate. You can also buy honda bond from the dealer that you get the backing plate from.
about your range sensor question: I would suspect that you will need to transfer over your original range sensor to the new transmission. electronically, they may be the same; but plug may be different. if the plug is the same then you can and should use the plug that comes with the baya as it will have the correct mounting hardware and fit underneath the protective cover that also comes with.
I can add one piece of advice here though regardless of generation TL: don't just swap the rear main seal: buy the whole backing plate which has rear main seal and the oil pump o-ring that goes between the oil passage and the backing plate. You can also buy honda bond from the dealer that you get the backing plate from.
about your range sensor question: I would suspect that you will need to transfer over your original range sensor to the new transmission. electronically, they may be the same; but plug may be different. if the plug is the same then you can and should use the plug that comes with the baya as it will have the correct mounting hardware and fit underneath the protective cover that also comes with.
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Eternal 28 (02-16-2020)
08-12-2020, 04:54 PM
#45
Glad to see this was of some use to people. Looking back, I'm super proud of myself for doing all the research needed to do the swap properly. Here are some things that I've learned after the swap completed that I wanted to share:
1 - The tranny runs great. No, wait. It runs IMMACULATE. it is just so much smoother than I can remember my old one ever being, and once I did the last tranny fluid change, it got even smoother. What a difference. I haven;t experienced a single problem with it yet after 2 years of driving as my daily.
2 - Do a 3x3 tranny fluid change not long after the replacement. I cheaped out and waited a few thousand miles to do the tranny fluid change, because of how many I've done before on my old one and essentially wasted. Also, keep the tranny fluid filter from the new tranny ON, instead of replacing it with the old one. The new one is way easier to access and remove/replace the filter out of than the old one.
3 - As noted here and in the AV6 swap guide, you have to connect the 2 ports from the power steering part to each other, sort of like a loop. The 2 ports are NOT THE SAME SIZE, despite them looking like it. They are tiny so it was hard to tell, but I had a heavy power steering fluid leak not long after the swap. I called and took it back to the shop to have it looked at, and they thought it was the Power Steering part going back, and recommended that I replace it. Instead, what it actually was was the hose was too big for one of the ports that it was clamped to. Using the hose size for the smaller port, it would not fit into the larger port. Easiest fix: use the larger hose and use 2 clamps to tighten it around the smaller port.
4 - Adding on #3, if I could re-evaluate the work of the mechanic, I'd give him a 6.5/10. There were a few things that I found he did that made me change my mind about how competent he was. 1) I now have a oil leak coming from where the tranny/engine meet. The new mechanic who just did my water pump/belts replacement said that it looked like it needed a new gasket inside where the 2 parts meet. Either the transmission guy didn't do it right, or something didnt fit. Anyway, he suggested that I leave it alone because it wouldn't be worth the $ to fix. 2) the transmission guy used a wrong bolt or something when putting the engine back on on one of the corners. It was stripped and had to be drilled out by the new mechanic when he was lifting the engine out. In order to save it, he drilled a new bigger hole and for a new bolt, but along the process made a small crack on the engine frame
3) some time after the swap, I was cleaning my car, and found a LARGE freakin buried near the top of the transmission. I dont know WHERE the bolt came from, or where it's supposed to go 
so I threw it away. Could it have anything to do with the oil leak? Who knows.
I'm very close to 200k miles with this car. I was hoping to get to at least 300k, but at this rate it may not last that long. It was a wild ride looking back and I wish it could've been done with a little more care, but all said I'm proud to still be driving it daily with no issues.
1 - The tranny runs great. No, wait. It runs IMMACULATE. it is just so much smoother than I can remember my old one ever being, and once I did the last tranny fluid change, it got even smoother. What a difference. I haven;t experienced a single problem with it yet after 2 years of driving as my daily.
2 - Do a 3x3 tranny fluid change not long after the replacement. I cheaped out and waited a few thousand miles to do the tranny fluid change, because of how many I've done before on my old one and essentially wasted. Also, keep the tranny fluid filter from the new tranny ON, instead of replacing it with the old one. The new one is way easier to access and remove/replace the filter out of than the old one.
3 - As noted here and in the AV6 swap guide, you have to connect the 2 ports from the power steering part to each other, sort of like a loop. The 2 ports are NOT THE SAME SIZE, despite them looking like it. They are tiny so it was hard to tell, but I had a heavy power steering fluid leak not long after the swap. I called and took it back to the shop to have it looked at, and they thought it was the Power Steering part going back, and recommended that I replace it. Instead, what it actually was was the hose was too big for one of the ports that it was clamped to. Using the hose size for the smaller port, it would not fit into the larger port. Easiest fix: use the larger hose and use 2 clamps to tighten it around the smaller port.
4 - Adding on #3, if I could re-evaluate the work of the mechanic, I'd give him a 6.5/10. There were a few things that I found he did that made me change my mind about how competent he was. 1) I now have a oil leak coming from where the tranny/engine meet. The new mechanic who just did my water pump/belts replacement said that it looked like it needed a new gasket inside where the 2 parts meet. Either the transmission guy didn't do it right, or something didnt fit. Anyway, he suggested that I leave it alone because it wouldn't be worth the $ to fix. 2) the transmission guy used a wrong bolt or something when putting the engine back on on one of the corners. It was stripped and had to be drilled out by the new mechanic when he was lifting the engine out. In order to save it, he drilled a new bigger hole and for a new bolt, but along the process made a small crack on the engine frame
3) some time after the swap, I was cleaning my car, and found a LARGE freakin buried near the top of the transmission. I dont know WHERE the bolt came from, or where it's supposed to go so I threw it away. Could it have anything to do with the oil leak? Who knows. I'm very close to 200k miles with this car. I was hoping to get to at least 300k, but at this rate it may not last that long. It was a wild ride looking back and I wish it could've been done with a little more care, but all said I'm proud to still be driving it daily with no issues.
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nist7 (08-12-2020)
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blkVUEredline
2G TL (1999-2003)
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08-18-2004 06:36 PM
