HID Ballast Choices
Thread Starter
9th Gear
Joined: Jul 2015
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From: Wisconsin
HID Ballast Choices
Hey all... I've got a 2003 Acura TL that just became victim to the failed ballast issue...
I have been reading these posts (that seem to be from 2009-2013) and have found the following...
HIDeXtra is the best place to get conversion kits that include ballast and bulbs. They are inexpensive, have decent customer service, and (were) a preferred vendor of Acurazine. (only question is why are they no longer a preferred vendor)
Then I see "don't use HIDeXtra use DDM Tuning"... But DDM Tuning has less favorable reviews.
Then I see "you need to splice wires and its common" vs. "never splice wires you'll blow up your car and mean people kill puppies every time you splice".
Needless to say... I am paralyzed with confusion.
Can I get some advice, as I am ready to order the ballast from HIDeXtra, splice the wire using the connector from the old ballast, install my new 5000k lights, and be done with this.
Understand I am just a guy with an Acura that wants to not get pulled over at night. I don't care about pretty colors, powerful outputs, etc. I am just trying to avoid a $600 shop bill from a mechanic.
Thank you all for any help you can provide!!!
I have been reading these posts (that seem to be from 2009-2013) and have found the following...
HIDeXtra is the best place to get conversion kits that include ballast and bulbs. They are inexpensive, have decent customer service, and (were) a preferred vendor of Acurazine. (only question is why are they no longer a preferred vendor)
Then I see "don't use HIDeXtra use DDM Tuning"... But DDM Tuning has less favorable reviews.
Then I see "you need to splice wires and its common" vs. "never splice wires you'll blow up your car and mean people kill puppies every time you splice".
Needless to say... I am paralyzed with confusion.
Can I get some advice, as I am ready to order the ballast from HIDeXtra, splice the wire using the connector from the old ballast, install my new 5000k lights, and be done with this.
Understand I am just a guy with an Acura that wants to not get pulled over at night. I don't care about pretty colors, powerful outputs, etc. I am just trying to avoid a $600 shop bill from a mechanic.
Thank you all for any help you can provide!!!
try.... The Retrofit Source Inc
for about $150, you get two bulbs, two ballast and a relay.
and customer service is AWESOME! not to mention that their products are great and can stand the test of time!
I am currently using one of their $150 ELite HID systems that include morimoto bulbs! ive been using this system for 2 years now. ABSOLUTELY no troubles at all!!!!!
i chose 5000 Kelvin bulb temperature so it looks like stock
for about $150, you get two bulbs, two ballast and a relay.
and customer service is AWESOME! not to mention that their products are great and can stand the test of time!
I am currently using one of their $150 ELite HID systems that include morimoto bulbs! ive been using this system for 2 years now. ABSOLUTELY no troubles at all!!!!!
i chose 5000 Kelvin bulb temperature so it looks like stock
Last edited by justnspace; Jul 10, 2015 at 12:01 PM.
Thread Starter
9th Gear
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
Okay... So Retrofit seems to be the place to go from others on this forum as well... That price seems very reasonable... About twice the price of HIDeXtra and DDM Tuning but if the quality is 4x better than paying 2x just makes sense.
May I ask...
What is a relay and why do I need one?
Will I need to splice wires to make it connect to the Acura stock ballast connector?
May I ask...
What is a relay and why do I need one?
Will I need to splice wires to make it connect to the Acura stock ballast connector?
every vehicle manufacturer designs the light circuit around a specified wattage of the bulb being powered. If the HIDs draw more power than that bulb you will most likely blow the fuse that is protecting the circuit.
Some guys just throw the next size bigger fuse in and it works, is that safe?
NO, not really.
Consider that the gauge of the wiring used is calculated for the draw of the Halogen bulb you just replaced and for the original size fuse that kept blowing. IF you choose to just up the size of the fuse you may end up with a melted wiring harness! Or worse yet, an electrical FIRE! Instead you should install an HID Relay Harness. It uses the cars light socket to click over a relay and this allows power to be pulled directly from the battery via sufficient gauge wire and a proper size fuse for HID Ballasts to operate.
Some guys just throw the next size bigger fuse in and it works, is that safe?
NO, not really.
Consider that the gauge of the wiring used is calculated for the draw of the Halogen bulb you just replaced and for the original size fuse that kept blowing. IF you choose to just up the size of the fuse you may end up with a melted wiring harness! Or worse yet, an electrical FIRE! Instead you should install an HID Relay Harness. It uses the cars light socket to click over a relay and this allows power to be pulled directly from the battery via sufficient gauge wire and a proper size fuse for HID Ballasts to operate.
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Team Owner
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get the hidextra kit with 35 watt ballast and connector wire to bulb (special wire) and 2 bulbs for 60 bucks with code new fb
If you have bulbs keep them as spares for another ziner in need! 5000 is the good color choice!!
they stopped being a vendor because its freakin expensive to be one on here~
Cost analysis of customers in vs cash out always a consideration
Cutting off the stock connectror is not a big deal- you could put it back on later if desired!
hidextra and most others come with male spade-blade fitting already installed on the power leads- you install the female match to it and crimp = done! $2 for a box of them.
Splicing is a pair of pliers and a hairdryer for the shrink wrap tape you put around it
4 wires,,ooooooh huge deal ptttttttttttt = not!
Relay is NOT needed, that's only if you don't have HID and are actually upgrading car.
We are just swapping bogus parts out for modern parts in
follow the simple diy on here, one even labeled hidextra install - clean
During the years Ive been on here we have many users come up with ever better ways and places to install the ballast and cover the opening in light housing where larger wires used to go thru
Its not that big a deal, really!!!
sure for 3 times the money you may get a better ballast, but technology is technology and they make good units for cheap-
at least sell them for cheap, hidextra also supplies many other sellers..who throw their name on it and raise the price!
100% satisfaction= parts replacement- even if your fault! for 1 year
To me- that's the way to go, even if in 2 -7 years you need to replace them again for some reason, its still cheaper than high dollar ones that fail just after warranty~
If you have bulbs keep them as spares for another ziner in need! 5000 is the good color choice!!
they stopped being a vendor because its freakin expensive to be one on here~
Cost analysis of customers in vs cash out always a consideration
Cutting off the stock connectror is not a big deal- you could put it back on later if desired!
hidextra and most others come with male spade-blade fitting already installed on the power leads- you install the female match to it and crimp = done! $2 for a box of them.
Splicing is a pair of pliers and a hairdryer for the shrink wrap tape you put around it
4 wires,,ooooooh huge deal ptttttttttttt = not!
Relay is NOT needed, that's only if you don't have HID and are actually upgrading car.
We are just swapping bogus parts out for modern parts in
follow the simple diy on here, one even labeled hidextra install - clean
During the years Ive been on here we have many users come up with ever better ways and places to install the ballast and cover the opening in light housing where larger wires used to go thru
Its not that big a deal, really!!!
sure for 3 times the money you may get a better ballast, but technology is technology and they make good units for cheap-
at least sell them for cheap, hidextra also supplies many other sellers..who throw their name on it and raise the price!
100% satisfaction= parts replacement- even if your fault! for 1 year
To me- that's the way to go, even if in 2 -7 years you need to replace them again for some reason, its still cheaper than high dollar ones that fail just after warranty~
Last edited by 01tl4tl; Jul 10, 2015 at 03:00 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 33,535
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That would be fine 12 years ago but now we all need new modern micro sized parts that are sealed in epoxy and waterproof connections
Any time spent trying to figure if its ballast or igniter will end up being both because thats what happens!
Do it once, do it right, follow actual TL owners advice and get the kit!!!
OE parts suck and is decades old design = back when HID was a big deal and brand new
Any time spent trying to figure if its ballast or igniter will end up being both because thats what happens!
Do it once, do it right, follow actual TL owners advice and get the kit!!!
OE parts suck and is decades old design = back when HID was a big deal and brand new
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 2,824
Likes: 483
From: NorCal
OEM stuff are not junk. The fact that most of OE HID last for decades is a testament to their durability. If you want junk don't buy an Acura or Honda.
The car is over a decade old. Parts wear out. Bulbs, Ballast, and Igniters are not suppose to last forever. They are consumable parts. Not unusual for them to fail after a decade of use. They have exceeded their useful life expectancy.
You know what's junk? Butt connectors- one good tug and it's disconnected. There's a reason why no car manufacturer use butt connectors when building cars, it's because butt connectors are junk. So is cutting up factory wiring for no good reason.
The car is over a decade old. Parts wear out. Bulbs, Ballast, and Igniters are not suppose to last forever. They are consumable parts. Not unusual for them to fail after a decade of use. They have exceeded their useful life expectancy.
You know what's junk? Butt connectors- one good tug and it's disconnected. There's a reason why no car manufacturer use butt connectors when building cars, it's because butt connectors are junk. So is cutting up factory wiring for no good reason.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 33,535
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the fact that water drips out of the light housing and directly onto a non-waterproof ballast = gets inside and rust out the electrical -
pics are on azine of the end result = Means its junk by todays standards!
15 years ago it was the shite- now its just shite
You would have to be pretty stupid to pay acura$ price for new parts, and it will need all of them!
Which way seems realistic to install on a 14 year old car that's losing value every day?
Pretty soon a new set of dealer parts will be equal to total value of the car!
Never heard anyone bitch about buying a TL with modern parts already installed!
No one ever said to use butt-inline connectors!!!!!!!!!!!!
and apparently you have not read anything I said about hidextras ballast
(assuming others do same) coming with male spade/blade connector installed-
you CRIMP with pliers- the female half onto cut end of cars wire and slip the 2 together
SIMPLE!
That type connector is one of the most commonly used in the auto industry!
go look at parts store shelf and see for yourself
pics are on azine of the end result = Means its junk by todays standards!
15 years ago it was the shite- now its just shite
You would have to be pretty stupid to pay acura$ price for new parts, and it will need all of them!
Which way seems realistic to install on a 14 year old car that's losing value every day?
Pretty soon a new set of dealer parts will be equal to total value of the car!
Never heard anyone bitch about buying a TL with modern parts already installed!
No one ever said to use butt-inline connectors!!!!!!!!!!!!
and apparently you have not read anything I said about hidextras ballast
(assuming others do same) coming with male spade/blade connector installed-
you CRIMP with pliers- the female half onto cut end of cars wire and slip the 2 together
SIMPLE!
That type connector is one of the most commonly used in the auto industry!
go look at parts store shelf and see for yourself
Last edited by 01tl4tl; Jul 11, 2015 at 11:50 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 2,824
Likes: 483
From: NorCal
LOL. Gee it's too bad that the Acura engineers wasn't aware that mounting the ballasts outside would subject them to moisture or rain. And made their ballasts "Non-waterproof ballast". Man you are brilliant.
A few water log ballast is not an indication that Acura ballasts are not water proof. And yes a few, as compare to say millions of Acuras on the road. Given that fact you need to double those numbers because there are 2 ballasts per vehicle. Lets say a few hundred or even a few thousand defective ballasts is nothing compare to millions and millions of Acura ballasts on the road.
Your so call "Modern technology" was use by OEM manufacturers first not by aftermarket HID companies. You have that backwards. The aftermarket HID industry came after the introduction of HID in high end vehicles. Acura uses that same HID technology across the whole Acura line. Meaning same manufacturing techniques and materials.
If Acura ballasts were truly made as a "Non-waterproof ballast" there would of been massive failures across the whole Acura line. In the millions after the first or second winter, not a decade later.
You get what you paid for and it's not just money. It's also wasting peoples time. Not everyone has a mechanical back ground.
Below is a quote from The Retrofit Source and the link. They're sellers of aftermarket and oem hid systems. They would be consider "Experts" on the subject of HID lamps.
"3. Should you use OEM or Aftermarket Ballasts?
The more expensive OEM ballasts such as the Matsushita or Denso units will not make your headlights any brighter than a less expensive aftermarket ballast. Though, there is a reasonable margin of quality between OEM-made and really cheap aftermarket HID kit ballasts; mostly in terms of long-term reliability. OEM ballasts also tend to warm the bulbs up to their full operating intensity a few seconds faster than aftermarket units."
Here's the link...
Know It All - HID Ballasts
Your Post #8 from above concerning splicing. Unless you plan of using duck tape then you'll be using some kind of crimped connector. What's the difference between crimping a butt connector and crimping a female spade connector? No difference. A spade male/female connected together is still connected by the same method, crimping as in a crimped butt connector.
Quote from Post #8.
"Cutting off the stock connectror is not a big deal- you could put it back on later if desired!
hidextra and most others come with male spade-blade fitting already installed on the power leads- you install the female match to it and crimp = done! $2 for a box of them.
Splicing is a pair of pliers and a hairdryer for the shrink wrap tape you put around it
4 wires,,ooooooh huge deal ptttttttttttt = not!"
Crimping is the most commonly use type of electrical connection in the after market. That is also the most common failure of electrical connections. Common doesn't make it better or even good. OEM connections are way better hands down. Given a choice OEM connectors are a no brainer.
A few water log ballast is not an indication that Acura ballasts are not water proof. And yes a few, as compare to say millions of Acuras on the road. Given that fact you need to double those numbers because there are 2 ballasts per vehicle. Lets say a few hundred or even a few thousand defective ballasts is nothing compare to millions and millions of Acura ballasts on the road.
Your so call "Modern technology" was use by OEM manufacturers first not by aftermarket HID companies. You have that backwards. The aftermarket HID industry came after the introduction of HID in high end vehicles. Acura uses that same HID technology across the whole Acura line. Meaning same manufacturing techniques and materials.
If Acura ballasts were truly made as a "Non-waterproof ballast" there would of been massive failures across the whole Acura line. In the millions after the first or second winter, not a decade later.
You get what you paid for and it's not just money. It's also wasting peoples time. Not everyone has a mechanical back ground.
Below is a quote from The Retrofit Source and the link. They're sellers of aftermarket and oem hid systems. They would be consider "Experts" on the subject of HID lamps.
"3. Should you use OEM or Aftermarket Ballasts?
The more expensive OEM ballasts such as the Matsushita or Denso units will not make your headlights any brighter than a less expensive aftermarket ballast. Though, there is a reasonable margin of quality between OEM-made and really cheap aftermarket HID kit ballasts; mostly in terms of long-term reliability. OEM ballasts also tend to warm the bulbs up to their full operating intensity a few seconds faster than aftermarket units."
Here's the link...
Know It All - HID Ballasts
Your Post #8 from above concerning splicing. Unless you plan of using duck tape then you'll be using some kind of crimped connector. What's the difference between crimping a butt connector and crimping a female spade connector? No difference. A spade male/female connected together is still connected by the same method, crimping as in a crimped butt connector.
Quote from Post #8.
"Cutting off the stock connectror is not a big deal- you could put it back on later if desired!
hidextra and most others come with male spade-blade fitting already installed on the power leads- you install the female match to it and crimp = done! $2 for a box of them.
Splicing is a pair of pliers and a hairdryer for the shrink wrap tape you put around it
4 wires,,ooooooh huge deal ptttttttttttt = not!"
Crimping is the most commonly use type of electrical connection in the after market. That is also the most common failure of electrical connections. Common doesn't make it better or even good. OEM connections are way better hands down. Given a choice OEM connectors are a no brainer.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 33,535
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so pay for new acura stuff on your car!! the rest of us can save the cash and fix the problem easily
Obviously you don't understand the real problem, which is failure of the headlight bucket to lens seal. Once you start getting moisture on the inside of lens it has to drain out somewhere- that happens to be the bottom of the housing-
which has the ballast mounted directly to it~ drip drip drip drip drip drip drip
That's your source of intrusion, not splashed or whatever
Open a fried ballast and realize it doesn't even have a good seal on it!
The modern replacement parts have the entire internals of the ballast sealed in epoxy- nothings getting in there!
On the kits, the several wire to wire connections have orings, making them waterproof as well
Not so on the OE parts
Car makers look to save every penny- does that explain things better?
Inline splices - you cant see how well its been done -ok I agree those can fail
when improperly done.
Spade connecters- everything is visible where you attach together, and pretty much same design as many connectors on the vehicle = you can see the wires are held in there tight
for reference:
Ck the battery ground/all grounds to frame, those all have a crimp connector on it!!!!
as do many things under the hood. So if good enough for OE how are they not good enough for replacement?
Every wire going into a multi wire plastic connector has a crimp fitting on it!!
Are you a real factory trained and employed by a dealer/shop mechanic or even a shadetree mechanic?
Would probably be at acura from the sounds of it!
Or just someone with internet knowledge making them a 15 second expert?
Do you even own a TL or CL? of 2nd gen?
Note! ck out the gen3 TL threads on guess what- ballast failure!!!
Other models may have improved lens seals- after acura learned of the problem and customers balked at 1100$ for a total replacement package!!
One of the things we suggest is resealing the lens, or total housing replacement to prevent more water getting in. Aftermarket has decent price on housings now
Have you asked on every Honda and acura forum and generation-- to be able to state as FACT that the problem is not widespread??
Ask the sellers of aftermarket kits the number of units they sell to us- why are there so many choices for the TL unless the OE is prone to failure?
In summary- to each his own, if you think keeping a 15 year old car stock is important- spend the hundreds to get OE
Do you insist on OE rotors and pads too? There is a problem with our rotors- or do you dispute that fact? Should we stay on oe 1 pot calipers- or use what acura did on the 95 Legend for superior pad flex resistance and overall braking pressure applied to the pads? Why did they stop using those? money!!!!!!!!
If they can get away with using less than what they know is the best = cost analysis wins every time
Obviously you don't understand the real problem, which is failure of the headlight bucket to lens seal. Once you start getting moisture on the inside of lens it has to drain out somewhere- that happens to be the bottom of the housing-
which has the ballast mounted directly to it~ drip drip drip drip drip drip drip
That's your source of intrusion, not splashed or whatever
Open a fried ballast and realize it doesn't even have a good seal on it!
The modern replacement parts have the entire internals of the ballast sealed in epoxy- nothings getting in there!
On the kits, the several wire to wire connections have orings, making them waterproof as well
Not so on the OE parts
Car makers look to save every penny- does that explain things better?
Inline splices - you cant see how well its been done -ok I agree those can fail
when improperly done.
Spade connecters- everything is visible where you attach together, and pretty much same design as many connectors on the vehicle = you can see the wires are held in there tight
for reference:
Ck the battery ground/all grounds to frame, those all have a crimp connector on it!!!!
as do many things under the hood. So if good enough for OE how are they not good enough for replacement?
Every wire going into a multi wire plastic connector has a crimp fitting on it!!
Are you a real factory trained and employed by a dealer/shop mechanic or even a shadetree mechanic?
Would probably be at acura from the sounds of it!
Or just someone with internet knowledge making them a 15 second expert?
Do you even own a TL or CL? of 2nd gen?
Note! ck out the gen3 TL threads on guess what- ballast failure!!!
Other models may have improved lens seals- after acura learned of the problem and customers balked at 1100$ for a total replacement package!!
One of the things we suggest is resealing the lens, or total housing replacement to prevent more water getting in. Aftermarket has decent price on housings now
Have you asked on every Honda and acura forum and generation-- to be able to state as FACT that the problem is not widespread??
Ask the sellers of aftermarket kits the number of units they sell to us- why are there so many choices for the TL unless the OE is prone to failure?
In summary- to each his own, if you think keeping a 15 year old car stock is important- spend the hundreds to get OE
Do you insist on OE rotors and pads too? There is a problem with our rotors- or do you dispute that fact? Should we stay on oe 1 pot calipers- or use what acura did on the 95 Legend for superior pad flex resistance and overall braking pressure applied to the pads? Why did they stop using those? money!!!!!!!!
If they can get away with using less than what they know is the best = cost analysis wins every time
Last edited by 01tl4tl; Jul 12, 2015 at 11:27 AM.
Racer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 377
Likes: 84
From: New Jersey
The OEM ballasts in our headlights are Mitsubishi Gen II units. The current generation is IV and these are available on The Retrofit Source for $200, but won't fit our headlights due to different ballast dimensions.
Now, I am all for OEM parts whenever it makes sense or when needed and I also like to have the ability to return any modifications to stock whenever possible. Having said that, I recently decided that it was time to retire the original headlights and ballasts on my '03 TL-S. The headlights didn't suffer from any moisture problems, the ballasts still worked, but the bulbs needed to be replaced. After about 95K miles, the headlight lenses were pretty pitted and were getting hazy.
I bought a brand new set of Honda / Acura headlights and retrofitted projectors into them because of the better light output versus reflectors. I decided to go with new Philips bulbs and Morimoto ballasts. Could I have reused the original ballasts? Sure. Did I want to? No, because I didn't want to take a chance with one or both of them going bad in the near future due to their age and then having to tear into the front of the car again to replace them.
Yes, the Morimoto ballasts take maybe a second or so longer to fully warm up when compared to the Mitsubishi ballasts, but for $110 for the pair versus about $440 for a pair of OEM units without the bulb connectors from the dealer, it makes no financial sense to buy new Mitsubishi ballasts that are already 2 generations old unless you must absolutely have OEM at any cost. The Morimoto ballasts are rated at 2500 hours (6-10 years of average use), come with a 2 year warranty, and are fully waterproof. Even if I have to replace them again in 5 years for some reason, that's still $220 invested versus $440.
If you look hard enough online, you will find plugs designed to fit the OEM ballast connectors on the 2G TL and that makes installing aftermarket ballasts a true plug & play setup without having to cut up factory wiring if you like to return things back to stock. I put together my whole new setup in such a way that I can unplug everything if needed and plug the old headlights back in and there will be no trace of any aftermarket setup / retrofit ever being installed.
There are definitely many cheap Chinese ballasts out there with questionable quality, but stuff made by Morimoto is pretty well regarded in the aftermarket and by retrofitters, so it's a brand definitely worth considering.
Now, I am all for OEM parts whenever it makes sense or when needed and I also like to have the ability to return any modifications to stock whenever possible. Having said that, I recently decided that it was time to retire the original headlights and ballasts on my '03 TL-S. The headlights didn't suffer from any moisture problems, the ballasts still worked, but the bulbs needed to be replaced. After about 95K miles, the headlight lenses were pretty pitted and were getting hazy.
I bought a brand new set of Honda / Acura headlights and retrofitted projectors into them because of the better light output versus reflectors. I decided to go with new Philips bulbs and Morimoto ballasts. Could I have reused the original ballasts? Sure. Did I want to? No, because I didn't want to take a chance with one or both of them going bad in the near future due to their age and then having to tear into the front of the car again to replace them.
Yes, the Morimoto ballasts take maybe a second or so longer to fully warm up when compared to the Mitsubishi ballasts, but for $110 for the pair versus about $440 for a pair of OEM units without the bulb connectors from the dealer, it makes no financial sense to buy new Mitsubishi ballasts that are already 2 generations old unless you must absolutely have OEM at any cost. The Morimoto ballasts are rated at 2500 hours (6-10 years of average use), come with a 2 year warranty, and are fully waterproof. Even if I have to replace them again in 5 years for some reason, that's still $220 invested versus $440.
If you look hard enough online, you will find plugs designed to fit the OEM ballast connectors on the 2G TL and that makes installing aftermarket ballasts a true plug & play setup without having to cut up factory wiring if you like to return things back to stock. I put together my whole new setup in such a way that I can unplug everything if needed and plug the old headlights back in and there will be no trace of any aftermarket setup / retrofit ever being installed.
There are definitely many cheap Chinese ballasts out there with questionable quality, but stuff made by Morimoto is pretty well regarded in the aftermarket and by retrofitters, so it's a brand definitely worth considering.
Last edited by MBP 03; Jul 13, 2015 at 12:35 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 2,824
Likes: 483
From: NorCal
so pay for new acura stuff on your car!! the rest of us can save the cash and fix the problem easily
Obviously you don't understand the real problem, which is failure of the headlight bucket to lens seal. Once you start getting moisture on the inside of lens it has to drain out somewhere- that happens to be the bottom of the housing-
which has the ballast mounted directly to it~ drip drip drip drip drip drip drip
That's your source of intrusion, not splashed or whatever
Open a fried ballast and realize it doesn't even have a good seal on it!
The modern replacement parts have the entire internals of the ballast sealed in epoxy- nothings getting in there!
On the kits, the several wire to wire connections have orings, making them waterproof as well
Not so on the OE parts
Car makers look to save every penny- does that explain things better?
Inline splices - you cant see how well its been done -ok I agree those can fail
when improperly done.
Spade connecters- everything is visible where you attach together, and pretty much same design as many connectors on the vehicle = you can see the wires are held in there tight
for reference:
Ck the battery ground/all grounds to frame, those all have a crimp connector on it!!!!
as do many things under the hood. So if good enough for OE how are they not good enough for replacement?
Every wire going into a multi wire plastic connector has a crimp fitting on it!!
Are you a real factory trained and employed by a dealer/shop mechanic or even a shadetree mechanic?
Would probably be at acura from the sounds of it!
Or just someone with internet knowledge making them a 15 second expert?
Do you even own a TL or CL? of 2nd gen?
Note! ck out the gen3 TL threads on guess what- ballast failure!!!
Other models may have improved lens seals- after acura learned of the problem and customers balked at 1100$ for a total replacement package!!
One of the things we suggest is resealing the lens, or total housing replacement to prevent more water getting in. Aftermarket has decent price on housings now
Have you asked on every Honda and acura forum and generation-- to be able to state as FACT that the problem is not widespread??
Ask the sellers of aftermarket kits the number of units they sell to us- why are there so many choices for the TL unless the OE is prone to failure?
In summary- to each his own, if you think keeping a 15 year old car stock is important- spend the hundreds to get OE
Do you insist on OE rotors and pads too? There is a problem with our rotors- or do you dispute that fact? Should we stay on oe 1 pot calipers- or use what acura did on the 95 Legend for superior pad flex resistance and overall braking pressure applied to the pads? Why did they stop using those? money!!!!!!!!
If they can get away with using less than what they know is the best = cost analysis wins every time
Obviously you don't understand the real problem, which is failure of the headlight bucket to lens seal. Once you start getting moisture on the inside of lens it has to drain out somewhere- that happens to be the bottom of the housing-
which has the ballast mounted directly to it~ drip drip drip drip drip drip drip
That's your source of intrusion, not splashed or whatever
Open a fried ballast and realize it doesn't even have a good seal on it!
The modern replacement parts have the entire internals of the ballast sealed in epoxy- nothings getting in there!
On the kits, the several wire to wire connections have orings, making them waterproof as well
Not so on the OE parts
Car makers look to save every penny- does that explain things better?
Inline splices - you cant see how well its been done -ok I agree those can fail
when improperly done.
Spade connecters- everything is visible where you attach together, and pretty much same design as many connectors on the vehicle = you can see the wires are held in there tight
for reference:
Ck the battery ground/all grounds to frame, those all have a crimp connector on it!!!!
as do many things under the hood. So if good enough for OE how are they not good enough for replacement?
Every wire going into a multi wire plastic connector has a crimp fitting on it!!
Are you a real factory trained and employed by a dealer/shop mechanic or even a shadetree mechanic?
Would probably be at acura from the sounds of it!
Or just someone with internet knowledge making them a 15 second expert?
Do you even own a TL or CL? of 2nd gen?
Note! ck out the gen3 TL threads on guess what- ballast failure!!!
Other models may have improved lens seals- after acura learned of the problem and customers balked at 1100$ for a total replacement package!!
One of the things we suggest is resealing the lens, or total housing replacement to prevent more water getting in. Aftermarket has decent price on housings now
Have you asked on every Honda and acura forum and generation-- to be able to state as FACT that the problem is not widespread??
Ask the sellers of aftermarket kits the number of units they sell to us- why are there so many choices for the TL unless the OE is prone to failure?
In summary- to each his own, if you think keeping a 15 year old car stock is important- spend the hundreds to get OE
Do you insist on OE rotors and pads too? There is a problem with our rotors- or do you dispute that fact? Should we stay on oe 1 pot calipers- or use what acura did on the 95 Legend for superior pad flex resistance and overall braking pressure applied to the pads? Why did they stop using those? money!!!!!!!!
If they can get away with using less than what they know is the best = cost analysis wins every time
Sure when I was a kid I'll buy the bargain parts because I was short on money and didn't know better. Now I've learn from my past mistakes and gotten wiser. Now I have no problem paying more money for quality. That just works out better in the long run.
Most people would appreciate doing a job once and doing it right the first.
Bottom line is the OEM ballast is the most reliable long term ballast. Bar none... end of story.
Aftermarket ballast is less reliable and you will further diminish the long term reliability of the HID system by splicing the wires.
Anybody who says otherwise is telling a lie; bullshitting; ignorant; or may have an ego bigger than their tl.
In order for someone to claim an aftermarket ballast is better than OEM, that ballast would have to of been in service for over 10 years. And even then one cannot claim it's better, they can only claim that ballast is equal to or as good as OEM, not better than OEM.
If the problem is the headlight, then why are you telling people to cut up the HID harness and replacing with aftermarket HID system? Shouldn't you be telling them to fix the headlamps or replace the headlamps? I didn't see that anywhere on this post?
"Open a fry ballast"? Really? How many have you've open... 0? Exactly how many ballast have you've actually confirm they fail from water damage? Can you give me a number? Unless you've gotten confirmation, how do you know some of them didn't fail from something else like natural death/consumed/use up. HID components are consumable... bulbs/ballast/igniter. I would even say there are more wore out systems than there are water damaged ballasts.
"Ck the battery ground/all grounds to frame, those all have a crimp connector on it!!!!" Really? You going to compare a cable to a wire? LOL
"Have you asked on every Honda and acura forum and generation-- to be able to state as FACT that the problem is not widespread??" No, absolutely not. But then I don't need to because if it were wide spread and true there would of been a recall. ie, recalls on defective transmissions.
Thank you for acknowledging this. "Inline splices - you cant see how well its been done -ok I agree those can fail when improperly done."
I don't see any relevance if I were a certified mech or a shade tree mech or even if I drive a honda/acura. Far as I'm concern, as long as I have accurate and true information, important or relevant information and knowledge to share on the subject matter on hand, I would think Acuraziners would welcome my input or point of view.
You are not a Moderator here at Acurazine. You have no authority on this Acurazine Forum. For you to imply otherwise tells me you are a jackass. The reason why I say this is because this is not the first time you have ask me those questions. The last time you asked those questions, you also said for me to go back to the CL side where I belong. I will say it again. You are not a Moderator here at Acurazine. You have no Acurazine authoritative powers to tell me where I can or cannot go on this Forum. Please do not do that again.
Last edited by 01acls; Jul 13, 2015 at 01:40 PM.
Senior Moderator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 48,312
Likes: 9,177
From: SoCal, CA
I'll just leave this right here:
D2S: Morimoto Elite HID System - HID Systems from The Retrofit Source Inc
D2S: Morimoto Elite HID System - HID Systems from The Retrofit Source Inc
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 2,824
Likes: 483
From: NorCal
I'll just leave this right here:
D2S: Morimoto Elite HID System - HID Systems from The Retrofit Source Inc
D2S: Morimoto Elite HID System - HID Systems from The Retrofit Source Inc
LOL. I guess you saw my post.
02 WDP type-S Navi
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 313
Likes: 1
From: So. Cali
The OEM ballasts in our headlights are Mitsubishi Gen II units. The current generation is IV and these are available on The Retrofit Source for $200, but won't fit our headlights due to different ballast dimensions.
Now, I am all for OEM parts whenever it makes sense or when needed and I also like to have the ability to return any modifications to stock whenever possible. Having said that, I recently decided that it was time to retire the original headlights and ballasts on my '03 TL-S. The headlights didn't suffer from any moisture problems, the ballasts still worked, but the bulbs needed to be replaced. After about 95K miles, the headlight lenses were pretty pitted and were getting hazy.
I bought a brand new set of Honda / Acura headlights and retrofitted projectors into them because of the better light output versus reflectors. I decided to go with new Philips bulbs and Morimoto ballasts. Could I have reused the original ballasts? Sure. Did I want to? No, because I didn't want to take a chance with one or both of them going bad in the near future due to their age and then having to tear into the front of the car again to replace them.
Yes, the Morimoto ballasts take maybe a second or so longer to fully warm up when compared to the Mitsubishi ballasts, but for $110 for the pair versus about $440 for a pair of OEM units without the bulb connectors from the dealer, it makes no financial sense to buy new Mitsubishi ballasts that are already 2 generations old unless you must absolutely have OEM at any cost. The Morimoto ballasts are rated at 2500 hours (6-10 years of average use), come with a 2 year warranty, and are fully waterproof. Even if I have to replace them again in 5 years for some reason, that's still $220 invested versus $440.
If you look hard enough online, you will find plugs designed to fit the OEM ballast connectors on the 2G TL and that makes installing aftermarket ballasts a true plug & play setup without having to cut up factory wiring if you like to return things back to stock. I put together my whole new setup in such a way that I can unplug everything if needed and plug the old headlights back in and there will be no trace of any aftermarket setup / retrofit ever being installed.
There are definitely many cheap Chinese ballasts out there with questionable quality, but stuff made by Morimoto is pretty well regarded in the aftermarket and by retrofitters, so it's a brand definitely worth considering.
Now, I am all for OEM parts whenever it makes sense or when needed and I also like to have the ability to return any modifications to stock whenever possible. Having said that, I recently decided that it was time to retire the original headlights and ballasts on my '03 TL-S. The headlights didn't suffer from any moisture problems, the ballasts still worked, but the bulbs needed to be replaced. After about 95K miles, the headlight lenses were pretty pitted and were getting hazy.
I bought a brand new set of Honda / Acura headlights and retrofitted projectors into them because of the better light output versus reflectors. I decided to go with new Philips bulbs and Morimoto ballasts. Could I have reused the original ballasts? Sure. Did I want to? No, because I didn't want to take a chance with one or both of them going bad in the near future due to their age and then having to tear into the front of the car again to replace them.
Yes, the Morimoto ballasts take maybe a second or so longer to fully warm up when compared to the Mitsubishi ballasts, but for $110 for the pair versus about $440 for a pair of OEM units without the bulb connectors from the dealer, it makes no financial sense to buy new Mitsubishi ballasts that are already 2 generations old unless you must absolutely have OEM at any cost. The Morimoto ballasts are rated at 2500 hours (6-10 years of average use), come with a 2 year warranty, and are fully waterproof. Even if I have to replace them again in 5 years for some reason, that's still $220 invested versus $440.
If you look hard enough online, you will find plugs designed to fit the OEM ballast connectors on the 2G TL and that makes installing aftermarket ballasts a true plug & play setup without having to cut up factory wiring if you like to return things back to stock. I put together my whole new setup in such a way that I can unplug everything if needed and plug the old headlights back in and there will be no trace of any aftermarket setup / retrofit ever being installed.
There are definitely many cheap Chinese ballasts out there with questionable quality, but stuff made by Morimoto is pretty well regarded in the aftermarket and by retrofitters, so it's a brand definitely worth considering.
I was all on on some morimotos. I've gone through 3 cheap different brands of ballasts for my HID fog lights, since I started parking outside two years ago. Now my oem headlight ballast or ignitor is jacked up and only turns only one out of ten times. Would you happen to know which harness adapter to get if you went that route? to go from OEM to the 9006 Morimoto connector ballast? Thanks
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 2,824
Likes: 483
From: NorCal
^ 3 times and going back for more punishment?
Even aftermarket stuff buy quality. But that's the problem with aftermarket stuff how does one know what's good and what's cheap? Answer... role of the dice... unfortunately.
FYI: Below are couple of links concerning marimoto hid/ballast reviews. I'm posting it here because I personally fine it humorous, nothing more. I thought you guys might find it funny too. Be sure to watch the top one to the end.
BTW there was a recall on marimoto ballasts last year. If you want to know more... google it.
Even aftermarket stuff buy quality. But that's the problem with aftermarket stuff how does one know what's good and what's cheap? Answer... role of the dice... unfortunately.
FYI: Below are couple of links concerning marimoto hid/ballast reviews. I'm posting it here because I personally fine it humorous, nothing more. I thought you guys might find it funny too. Be sure to watch the top one to the end.
BTW there was a recall on marimoto ballasts last year. If you want to know more... google it.
Last edited by 01acls; Jul 15, 2015 at 02:30 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 33,535
Likes: 1,142
you only have to look on azine to find multiple pics of ballast with RUST inside them - that's not a normal wear condition
While the headlight lens is where the leak starts, and on many threads of this subject I suggest to replace or reseal housings-
So I don't bother to state that anymore
It should be obvious
In the end: by your statements it appears you do not to drive or own TL, and I turned down the Moderator position some years ago
because they don't pay you, and then I couldn't say things like STFU-YA...but I have friends who can bounce you no sweat~
A wire or cable using blade ends- whats a cable- just a bunch of wires together!!!
A skilled tech or self taught.. or just some `15 second internet expert` who spends their days looking up threads to counter others opinions
Which brings us to -What idiot would put OE parts back on the lights, knowing their condition and reputation - assumedly to sell the car?
that's a pretty dick move
Good lights are good lights! install and leave them alone!!
readers are free to believe what they want and should use other sources to confirm
The 01assCL dude probably thinks solder makes a good connection on 2 wires together too rofl
While the headlight lens is where the leak starts, and on many threads of this subject I suggest to replace or reseal housings-
So I don't bother to state that anymore
It should be obvious
In the end: by your statements it appears you do not to drive or own TL, and I turned down the Moderator position some years ago
because they don't pay you, and then I couldn't say things like STFU-YA...but I have friends who can bounce you no sweat~
A wire or cable using blade ends- whats a cable- just a bunch of wires together!!!
A skilled tech or self taught.. or just some `15 second internet expert` who spends their days looking up threads to counter others opinions
Which brings us to -What idiot would put OE parts back on the lights, knowing their condition and reputation - assumedly to sell the car?
that's a pretty dick move
Good lights are good lights! install and leave them alone!!
readers are free to believe what they want and should use other sources to confirm
The 01assCL dude probably thinks solder makes a good connection on 2 wires together too rofl
Last edited by 01tl4tl; Jul 15, 2015 at 09:59 AM.
Senior Moderator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 48,312
Likes: 9,177
From: SoCal, CA
^ 3 times and going back for more punishment?
Even aftermarket stuff buy quality. But that's the problem with aftermarket stuff how does one know what's good and what's cheap? Answer... role of the dice... unfortunately.
BTW there was a recall on marimoto ballasts last year. If you want to know more... google it.
Even aftermarket stuff buy quality. But that's the problem with aftermarket stuff how does one know what's good and what's cheap? Answer... role of the dice... unfortunately.
BTW there was a recall on marimoto ballasts last year. If you want to know more... google it.
Sure Morimoto had recalls but they're always doing R&D and are a breeze to warranty. I've had a great customer service relationship with them and they have always taken care of me. <that's called real life experience.
Tell me more about these Google reviews you speak of
Racer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 377
Likes: 84
From: New Jersey
I was all on on some morimotos. I've gone through 3 cheap different brands of ballasts for my HID fog lights, since I started parking outside two years ago. Now my oem headlight ballast or ignitor is jacked up and only turns only one out of ten times. Would you happen to know which harness adapter to get if you went that route? to go from OEM to the 9006 Morimoto connector ballast? Thanks
Last edited by MBP 03; Jul 15, 2015 at 10:47 AM.
Racer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 377
Likes: 84
From: New Jersey
^ 3 times and going back for more punishment?
Even aftermarket stuff buy quality. But that's the problem with aftermarket stuff how does one know what's good and what's cheap? Answer... role of the dice... unfortunately.
FYI: Below are couple of links concerning marimoto hid/ballast reviews. I'm posting it here because I personally fine it humorous, nothing more. I thought you guys might find it funny too. Be sure to watch the top one to the end.
BTW there was a recall on marimoto ballasts last year. If you want to know more... google it.
Even aftermarket stuff buy quality. But that's the problem with aftermarket stuff how does one know what's good and what's cheap? Answer... role of the dice... unfortunately.
FYI: Below are couple of links concerning marimoto hid/ballast reviews. I'm posting it here because I personally fine it humorous, nothing more. I thought you guys might find it funny too. Be sure to watch the top one to the end.
BTW there was a recall on marimoto ballasts last year. If you want to know more... google it.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 743
Likes: 94
I can't tell you how many times I've seen a 2g TL with purple or failed headlights. Mine failed and my PoS mechanic sold me a fix for ~$900. Lucky me, I get to deal with this again in the future.
On this car I'd go OEM on ~90% of its parts but some things just aren't worth it. Like the OEM ballasts for one.
On this car I'd go OEM on ~90% of its parts but some things just aren't worth it. Like the OEM ballasts for one.
02 WDP type-S Navi
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 313
Likes: 1
From: So. Cali
You have to get 9006 pigtails to plug into the ballasts and then the other end of those pigtails goes into the terminals of the plug that I was referring to. I believe that The Retrofit Source sells these adapters ready made if you don't want to deal with making them yourself.
OE Ballast > 9006 Adapters
I'm running some D2s 5000K bulbs I got from China that I bought for 20 bucks a pair 4 years ago. Still kicking, just one ballast is beginning to take a dump. Either that or the ignitor. I have no intention of shelling out 500 bucks for one headlight thats re-Donkulous. Its summer time and I don't really drive at night, so I'm good until day lights savings time.
I can drive with my HID fogs in the worse case scenario, my $60 kit.
1st Gear
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Headlights
Hello All!!! You guys have been very helpful for me so I will tell my 2003 Acura TL story. My headlights were working occasionally and my husband got a ticket for having only one headlight. We bought the HID's from autozone $100 bucks a pop. It lasted about a month and several months later not at all. I ordered ballasts off of ebay used with ignitors for $200 total. We put the ballasts in and only one headlight worked and then stopped working within minutes. I checked the fuses because you guys said it could be that(they were fine)We decided ok lets try replacing the ignitors(even though the ones we had looked fine). Once we did. SUCCESS. We spent $400 on parts and did all the work ourselves by looking at youtube videos. I let you know how long it lasts. Process of elimination. Hope this helps somebody.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 33,535
Likes: 1,142
that's the whole thing about OE parts, its not worth using them anymore for their price- especially used ones!
with an aftermarket kit, for under 100$ you could have actually solved the problem on the first try
Congrats on the DIY!! it seems scary until you learn how to get the plastic panel clips out without breaking too many~
Welcome to acurazine- hope we can help you catch-up on maintenance or any problems in the future
with an aftermarket kit, for under 100$ you could have actually solved the problem on the first try
Congrats on the DIY!! it seems scary until you learn how to get the plastic panel clips out without breaking too many~
Welcome to acurazine- hope we can help you catch-up on maintenance or any problems in the future
Racer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 377
Likes: 84
From: New Jersey
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 2,824
Likes: 483
From: NorCal
Some of you guys are really jack up.
So the new normal is to replace a new head lamp part or system once or twice or even three times within a year or two. And you are happy to do so. LOL
Then instead of being mad at aftermarket parts you shit on oem parts.
Whats wrong with this picture here?
Part of the problem is you want to drive a high-end sports luxury automobile but you aren't willing to pay the high-end price.
You have to pay to play. That's the price of admission.
I'm sorry but life is not fair some times.
So the new normal is to replace a new head lamp part or system once or twice or even three times within a year or two. And you are happy to do so. LOL
Then instead of being mad at aftermarket parts you shit on oem parts.
Whats wrong with this picture here?
Part of the problem is you want to drive a high-end sports luxury automobile but you aren't willing to pay the high-end price.
You have to pay to play. That's the price of admission.
I'm sorry but life is not fair some times.
02 WDP type-S Navi
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 313
Likes: 1
From: So. Cali
Some of you guys are really jack up.
So the new normal is to replace a new head lamp part or system once or twice or even three times within a year or two. And you are happy to do so. LOL
Then instead of being mad at aftermarket parts you shit on oem parts.
Whats wrong with this picture here?
Part of the problem is you want to drive a high-end sports luxury automobile but you aren't willing to pay the high-end price.
You have to pay to play. That's the price of admission.
I'm sorry but life is not fair some times.
So the new normal is to replace a new head lamp part or system once or twice or even three times within a year or two. And you are happy to do so. LOL
Then instead of being mad at aftermarket parts you shit on oem parts.
Whats wrong with this picture here?
Part of the problem is you want to drive a high-end sports luxury automobile but you aren't willing to pay the high-end price.
You have to pay to play. That's the price of admission.
I'm sorry but life is not fair some times.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 2,824
Likes: 483
From: NorCal
I am relax. I'm not the one with lamp issues.
Now you are making shit up. I'm not saying don't buy aftermarket parts. I'm just saying aftermarket parts are inferior to oem parts. Nothing more. For someone to claim otherwise is spreading false information.
Now you are making shit up. I'm not saying don't buy aftermarket parts. I'm just saying aftermarket parts are inferior to oem parts. Nothing more. For someone to claim otherwise is spreading false information.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 2,824
Likes: 483
From: NorCal
I was all on on some morimotos. I've gone through 3 cheap different brands of ballasts for my HID fog lights, since I started parking outside two years ago. Now my oem headlight ballast or ignitor is jacked up and only turns only one out of ten times. Would you happen to know which harness adapter to get if you went that route? to go from OEM to the 9006 Morimoto connector ballast? Thanks
That's what's wrong with this picture.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 2,824
Likes: 483
From: NorCal
Here is an alternative to stealership oem ballast and igniter combo for $200 a set (complete set for one car minus bulbs). The link is below...
Mitsubishi Gen 4 Ballasts
Mitsubishi Gen 4 Ballasts
Racer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 377
Likes: 84
From: New Jersey
Just as a word of caution, those Gen 4 ballasts are smaller than the Gen 2 ballasts that came from the factory on these cars and the mounting tabs are not in the same location, so some modifications will need to be made to the underside of the headlight in order to get them to fit and bolt in.
Also, because they are not 100% waterproof, they will be affected by any moisture/water in the headlight just like the OEM units.
Lastly, these are described by TRS as being in "like-new" condition, which means that they are not brand new and probably have some hours already on them.
Also, because they are not 100% waterproof, they will be affected by any moisture/water in the headlight just like the OEM units.
Lastly, these are described by TRS as being in "like-new" condition, which means that they are not brand new and probably have some hours already on them.
Thread Starter
9th Gear
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
Well I got the HID Extra kit... I will go get the necessary connectors and the waterproof tape.
Where can I go to get those??? (Sorry I am a business consultant NOT a mechanic)
Also, I saw on YouTube some guy cut the OEM ballast cord and put that on his HID Extra kit to have it connect to the connector on the car.
Is this advisable and a better fix since the ballast is going in the trash anyhow???
Where can I go to get those??? (Sorry I am a business consultant NOT a mechanic)
Also, I saw on YouTube some guy cut the OEM ballast cord and put that on his HID Extra kit to have it connect to the connector on the car.
Is this advisable and a better fix since the ballast is going in the trash anyhow???
Racer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 377
Likes: 84
From: New Jersey
There is no ballast cord on these OEM Mitsubishi ballasts with the exception of the connection between the ballast and the bulb. The power supply connector is integrated into the ballast case, so there is nothing that you can cut off and reuse.
If the HID Extra ballasts have 9006 connectors, you can buy these pigtails to avoid having to cut off the OEM plug on the car side:
OE Ballast > 9006 Adapters
Otherwise, you can just go to Home Depot or any other home center / hardware store to get generic connectors and electrical tape / shrink wrap.
If the HID Extra ballasts have 9006 connectors, you can buy these pigtails to avoid having to cut off the OEM plug on the car side:
OE Ballast > 9006 Adapters
Otherwise, you can just go to Home Depot or any other home center / hardware store to get generic connectors and electrical tape / shrink wrap.
Thread Starter
9th Gear
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
Thanks for the link... Just so I am understanding this completely...
1. There is no cord coming from old ballast to power supply connector. It is directly connected.
2. If I get this "pigtails", I will cut off the end that doesn't fit and do my splicing there (HID Ballasts have blades for easy splicing... no connectors). Once spliced and properly connected, it will connect right into Power Supply.
3. Doing it this way would prevent me from having to remove the bumper, as I don't care if old ballast remains where it sits as long as I mount new ballast to frame rather than under housing.
Do I have this down?
1. There is no cord coming from old ballast to power supply connector. It is directly connected.
2. If I get this "pigtails", I will cut off the end that doesn't fit and do my splicing there (HID Ballasts have blades for easy splicing... no connectors). Once spliced and properly connected, it will connect right into Power Supply.
3. Doing it this way would prevent me from having to remove the bumper, as I don't care if old ballast remains where it sits as long as I mount new ballast to frame rather than under housing.
Do I have this down?
Last edited by John 3:30; Jul 28, 2015 at 12:21 PM.