help, three codes came up today!
06-11-2010, 10:00 AM
#1
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help, three codes came up today!
My original post is here.
Today I went to the Autozone to read the code. I got three codes.
P0122: TP sensor "A" circuit low voltage.
Probably cause:
1. Open or short circuit condition.
2. Poor Electrical Connection.
3. Faulty TP sensor
P0113: IAT sensor circuit high voltage.
Probably cause:
1. Open or short circuit condition.
2. Poor Electrical connection.
3. Faulty IAT sensor
P0505: (Autozone couldn't print anything about this one)
Questions:
What are the TP and IAT sensors? Where are they?
When I took apart the manifold, I didn't take off the throttle body but I sprayed some T/B cleaner to clean it. Will the T/B cleaner damage any sensor on the TB? I know there are three sensors on the TB but I don't what they are? Should I take apart the TB to clean it again, and take apart those sensors to try to clean them? What kind of cleaner should I use to clean the sensors?
One more question, there is a sensor on the back side the manifold, and around the corner. What is the sensor?
Any input deeply appreciated!
-mm
Today I went to the Autozone to read the code. I got three codes.
P0122: TP sensor "A" circuit low voltage.
Probably cause:
1. Open or short circuit condition.
2. Poor Electrical Connection.
3. Faulty TP sensor
P0113: IAT sensor circuit high voltage.
Probably cause:
1. Open or short circuit condition.
2. Poor Electrical connection.
3. Faulty IAT sensor
P0505: (Autozone couldn't print anything about this one)
Questions:
What are the TP and IAT sensors? Where are they?
When I took apart the manifold, I didn't take off the throttle body but I sprayed some T/B cleaner to clean it. Will the T/B cleaner damage any sensor on the TB? I know there are three sensors on the TB but I don't what they are? Should I take apart the TB to clean it again, and take apart those sensors to try to clean them? What kind of cleaner should I use to clean the sensors?
One more question, there is a sensor on the back side the manifold, and around the corner. What is the sensor?
Any input deeply appreciated!
-mm
06-11-2010, 10:02 AM
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Here is my original post:
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/need-your-help-badly-rough-idle-after-cleaning-egr-port-99-tl-779506/
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/need-your-help-badly-rough-idle-after-cleaning-egr-port-99-tl-779506/
My original post is here.
Today I went to the Autozone to read the code. I got three codes.
P0122: TP sensor "A" circuit low voltage.
Probably cause:
1. Open or short circuit condition.
2. Poor Electrical Connection.
3. Faulty TP sensor
P0113: IAT sensor circuit high voltage.
Probably cause:
1. Open or short circuit condition.
2. Poor Electrical connection.
3. Faulty IAT sensor
P0505: (Autozone couldn't print anything about this one)
Questions:
What are the TP and IAT sensors? Where are they?
When I took apart the manifold, I didn't take off the throttle body but I sprayed some T/B cleaner to clean it. Will the T/B cleaner damage any sensor on the TB? I know there are three sensors on the TB but I don't what they are? Should I take apart the TB to clean it again, and take apart those sensors to try to clean them? What kind of cleaner should I use to clean the sensors?
One more question, there is a sensor on the back side the manifold, and around the corner. What is the sensor?
Any input deeply appreciated!
-mm
Today I went to the Autozone to read the code. I got three codes.
P0122: TP sensor "A" circuit low voltage.
Probably cause:
1. Open or short circuit condition.
2. Poor Electrical Connection.
3. Faulty TP sensor
P0113: IAT sensor circuit high voltage.
Probably cause:
1. Open or short circuit condition.
2. Poor Electrical connection.
3. Faulty IAT sensor
P0505: (Autozone couldn't print anything about this one)
Questions:
What are the TP and IAT sensors? Where are they?
When I took apart the manifold, I didn't take off the throttle body but I sprayed some T/B cleaner to clean it. Will the T/B cleaner damage any sensor on the TB? I know there are three sensors on the TB but I don't what they are? Should I take apart the TB to clean it again, and take apart those sensors to try to clean them? What kind of cleaner should I use to clean the sensors?
One more question, there is a sensor on the back side the manifold, and around the corner. What is the sensor?
Any input deeply appreciated!
-mm
06-11-2010, 10:32 AM
#3
My original post is here.
Today I went to the Autozone to read the code. I got three codes.
P0122: TP sensor "A" circuit low voltage.
Probably cause:
1. Open or short circuit condition.
2. Poor Electrical Connection.
3. Faulty TP sensor
P0113: IAT sensor circuit high voltage.
Probably cause:
1. Open or short circuit condition.
2. Poor Electrical connection.
3. Faulty IAT sensor
P0505: (Autozone couldn't print anything about this one)
Questions:
What are the TP and IAT sensors? Where are they?
When I took apart the manifold, I didn't take off the throttle body but I sprayed some T/B cleaner to clean it. Will the T/B cleaner damage any sensor on the TB? I know there are three sensors on the TB but I don't what they are? Should I take apart the TB to clean it again, and take apart those sensors to try to clean them? What kind of cleaner should I use to clean the sensors?
One more question, there is a sensor on the back side the manifold, and around the corner. What is the sensor?
Any input deeply appreciated!
-mm
Today I went to the Autozone to read the code. I got three codes.
P0122: TP sensor "A" circuit low voltage.
Probably cause:
1. Open or short circuit condition.
2. Poor Electrical Connection.
3. Faulty TP sensor
P0113: IAT sensor circuit high voltage.
Probably cause:
1. Open or short circuit condition.
2. Poor Electrical connection.
3. Faulty IAT sensor
P0505: (Autozone couldn't print anything about this one)
Questions:
What are the TP and IAT sensors? Where are they?
When I took apart the manifold, I didn't take off the throttle body but I sprayed some T/B cleaner to clean it. Will the T/B cleaner damage any sensor on the TB? I know there are three sensors on the TB but I don't what they are? Should I take apart the TB to clean it again, and take apart those sensors to try to clean them? What kind of cleaner should I use to clean the sensors?
One more question, there is a sensor on the back side the manifold, and around the corner. What is the sensor?
Any input deeply appreciated!
-mm
I checked the manual and here's what they are :
TP = Throttle Position (Sensor)
IAT = Intake Air Temp (Sensor)
All of these are either on the intake manifold or the throttle body. You might want to check connectors for both fit and orientation. I does seem these are connectors (to sensors) you would remove if you were taking apart the intake manifold.
You might have blown the sensor(s) during your activities. Our cars are getting to an age where moving cables around can cause wire breakage inside the cables. However, this is a low probability.
I still think you should reconnect the connectors again just to make sure.
smartypants
06-11-2010, 10:42 AM
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Hi smartypants,
Thanks a lot! Do you have any idea about their locations?
-mm
Thanks a lot! Do you have any idea about their locations?
-mm
Originally Posted by ;12087315
Hi mashimario :
I checked the manual and here's what they are :
TP = Throttle Position (Sensor)
IAT = Intake Air Temp (Sensor)
All of these are either on the intake manifold or the throttle body. You might want to check connectors for both fit and orientation. I does seem these are connectors (to sensors) you would remove if you were taking apart the intake manifold.
You might have blown the sensor(s) during your activities. Our cars are getting to an age where moving cables around can cause wire breakage inside the cables. However, this is a low probability.
I still think you should reconnect the connectors again just to make sure.
smartypants
I checked the manual and here's what they are :
TP = Throttle Position (Sensor)
IAT = Intake Air Temp (Sensor)
All of these are either on the intake manifold or the throttle body. You might want to check connectors for both fit and orientation. I does seem these are connectors (to sensors) you would remove if you were taking apart the intake manifold.
You might have blown the sensor(s) during your activities. Our cars are getting to an age where moving cables around can cause wire breakage inside the cables. However, this is a low probability.
I still think you should reconnect the connectors again just to make sure.
smartypants
06-11-2010, 11:26 AM
#5
did you remove all the sensors when washing out the manifold?
get the battery and charging system tested,(free at autozone) a low battery voltage will give false codes and poor running
To have an IAT and the TPS go out at once is pretty unlikely unless you blew them up with water
TB cleaner is made for TB use! will NOT hurt any sensor or parts
Its gentler than carb cleaner for cars with a wire heater in TB- we dont have that type system so either product is ok
If you spray into the TB you want to wipe up runoff
when zone cant decode a code:
you can google any code and get good info--just search acura code + xyz7 (example only -use your codes)
get the battery and charging system tested,(free at autozone) a low battery voltage will give false codes and poor running
To have an IAT and the TPS go out at once is pretty unlikely unless you blew them up with water
TB cleaner is made for TB use! will NOT hurt any sensor or parts
Its gentler than carb cleaner for cars with a wire heater in TB- we dont have that type system so either product is ok
If you spray into the TB you want to wipe up runoff
when zone cant decode a code:
you can google any code and get good info--just search acura code + xyz7 (example only -use your codes)
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 06-11-2010 at 11:29 AM.
06-11-2010, 11:28 AM
#6
I would take the electrical connections apart- spray with wd inside or CRC electrical contact cleaner, you can add a dab of connector grease to prevent corrosion
iirc its possible to swap 2 connectors at the TB- ck it out
iirc its possible to swap 2 connectors at the TB- ck it out
06-11-2010, 11:52 AM
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No, I didn't remove those sensors. I just sprayed the TB cleaner inside the TB, and then use the brush and cloth to clean it.
The idle is not smooth, just like the misfiring or something. So I think there is still a leak.
I will try to clean the EGR valve joint and all the electrical connectors first, if the problem is still there, I am gonna to remove the IACV to clean it, if it's still there, I may replace it.
Do you have any idea about IAT and the TPS locations? The reason I asked this is that I started the car first then I found I didn't plug in the side sensor on the TB. (There are three sensors on the TB, top, side and bottom, it seems the bottom one is the IACV. Is it also called rotary air control? The top one is the MAP, I googled it, it is manifold absolute pressure sensor.) I couldn't find any information about the side one.
The idle is not smooth, just like the misfiring or something. So I think there is still a leak.
I will try to clean the EGR valve joint and all the electrical connectors first, if the problem is still there, I am gonna to remove the IACV to clean it, if it's still there, I may replace it.
Do you have any idea about IAT and the TPS locations? The reason I asked this is that I started the car first then I found I didn't plug in the side sensor on the TB. (There are three sensors on the TB, top, side and bottom, it seems the bottom one is the IACV. Is it also called rotary air control? The top one is the MAP, I googled it, it is manifold absolute pressure sensor.) I couldn't find any information about the side one.
did you remove all the sensors when washing out the manifold?
get the battery and charging system tested,(free at autozone) a low battery voltage will give false codes and poor running
To have an IAT and the TPS go out at once is pretty unlikely unless you blew them up with water
TB cleaner is made for TB use! will NOT hurt any sensor or parts
Its gentler than carb cleaner for cars with a wire heater in TB- we dont have that type system so either product is ok
If you spray into the TB you want to wipe up runoff
when zone cant decode a code:
you can google any code and get good info--just search acura code + xyz7 (example only -use your codes)
get the battery and charging system tested,(free at autozone) a low battery voltage will give false codes and poor running
To have an IAT and the TPS go out at once is pretty unlikely unless you blew them up with water
TB cleaner is made for TB use! will NOT hurt any sensor or parts
Its gentler than carb cleaner for cars with a wire heater in TB- we dont have that type system so either product is ok
If you spray into the TB you want to wipe up runoff
when zone cant decode a code:
you can google any code and get good info--just search acura code + xyz7 (example only -use your codes)
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06-11-2010, 12:07 PM
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I found the IAT = Intake Air Temp (Sensor), which is located on the back side of the manifold, around the corner.
And then I assume the side sensor on the TB is the TP = Throttle Position (Sensor). Since I tried to turned on the car without plugging either TP or IAT sensors. That's why ECU threw in P0122 and P0113 codes.
Now, I think I should focus on the P0505. I know it is related to the IACV. A quick question, if there is a vacuum leak, will it cause the P0505 code? Are there any other possibilities to trigger this code?
Thanks a lot!
And then I assume the side sensor on the TB is the TP = Throttle Position (Sensor). Since I tried to turned on the car without plugging either TP or IAT sensors. That's why ECU threw in P0122 and P0113 codes.
Now, I think I should focus on the P0505. I know it is related to the IACV. A quick question, if there is a vacuum leak, will it cause the P0505 code? Are there any other possibilities to trigger this code?
Thanks a lot!
06-11-2010, 12:54 PM
#9
I can't seem to copy and paste pics or text from the manual. They have enable a copy protect feature on the whole document.
The IAT sensor pokes down through the rear of the intake manifold on the right side of the engine. It kind of resembles a smallish spark plug.
The throttle position sensor is described in the manual but not pictured. I think the sensor is located inside the throttle body itself, which makes perfect technical sense. There is only one electrical connector going to the throttle body and TP sensor must be what that connector to plugs in to.
Sorry I can't be more specific.
smartypants.
The IAT sensor pokes down through the rear of the intake manifold on the right side of the engine. It kind of resembles a smallish spark plug.
The throttle position sensor is described in the manual but not pictured. I think the sensor is located inside the throttle body itself, which makes perfect technical sense. There is only one electrical connector going to the throttle body and TP sensor must be what that connector to plugs in to.
Sorry I can't be more specific.
smartypants.
Last edited by smartypants; 06-11-2010 at 12:58 PM.
06-11-2010, 01:21 PM
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Don't be sorry. It's really helpful. Thank you so much.
I can't seem to copy and paste pics or text from the manual. They have enable a copy protect feature on the whole document.
The IAT sensor pokes down through the rear of the intake manifold on the right side of the engine. It kind of resembles a smallish spark plug.
The throttle position sensor is described in the manual but not pictured. I think the sensor is located inside the throttle body itself, which makes perfect technical sense. There is only one electrical connector going to the throttle body and TP sensor must be what that connector to plugs in to.
Sorry I can't be more specific.
smartypants.
The IAT sensor pokes down through the rear of the intake manifold on the right side of the engine. It kind of resembles a smallish spark plug.
The throttle position sensor is described in the manual but not pictured. I think the sensor is located inside the throttle body itself, which makes perfect technical sense. There is only one electrical connector going to the throttle body and TP sensor must be what that connector to plugs in to.
Sorry I can't be more specific.
smartypants.
06-11-2010, 09:44 PM
#13
do an ecu reset since you ran the car without sensors connected-
remove CLOCK fuse on passenger side dash for 1 minute then reinsert
Start car and system will run a full reboot scan on itself
remove CLOCK fuse on passenger side dash for 1 minute then reinsert
Start car and system will run a full reboot scan on itself
06-12-2010, 09:42 AM
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Today I removed the EGR valve and cleaned the mounting place really well. I cleaned all the electrical connectors and reset the ECU. The idle is still rough, now it is around 800 rpm but I can feel it choking.
I am gonna drive a while to see if the CEL comes back. Next step, Ｉwill remove the T/B to clean the IACV. Before I do that, I have two questions.
I saw there are two T/B gaskets. Do I need to replace both of them when installing the T/B back?
Same question, do I need to replace the IACV gasket as well if I detach the IACV?
One more question, will bad PCV cause the idle problem or not?
Tons of thanks!
-mm
I am gonna drive a while to see if the CEL comes back. Next step, Ｉwill remove the T/B to clean the IACV. Before I do that, I have two questions.
I saw there are two T/B gaskets. Do I need to replace both of them when installing the T/B back?
Same question, do I need to replace the IACV gasket as well if I detach the IACV?
One more question, will bad PCV cause the idle problem or not?
Tons of thanks!
-mm
06-12-2010, 11:40 AM
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I just drove the car for about 20 mins. The CEL didn't come back, but the idle is still not smooth especially when the car is fully stopped. So I ordered the three gaskets through the honda dealer, and talked to the mechanic there. He told me that there are two possibilities: 1) dirty IACV. 2) A piece of carb in the T/B or Manifold.
Next step， I will clean the IACV ASA I get those gaskets, and clean the manifold again.
Next step， I will clean the IACV ASA I get those gaskets, and clean the manifold again.
06-12-2010, 02:34 PM
#16
Hi mashimario :
I think you're on the right track.
If there is an air leak the computer will try and compensate to the extent it can which may not be enough. If the leak is after the sensor, the computer will set the engine parameters incorrectly and cause symptoms like you're describing. In either case, you need to check for loose bolts/nuts or open vacuum lines. You also might have two vac lines switched. I'm thinking of the three connections to the left of the IAT sensor. It shouldn't matter because they all are "looking" for vacuum, but you never know.
smartypants
I think you're on the right track.
If there is an air leak the computer will try and compensate to the extent it can which may not be enough. If the leak is after the sensor, the computer will set the engine parameters incorrectly and cause symptoms like you're describing. In either case, you need to check for loose bolts/nuts or open vacuum lines. You also might have two vac lines switched. I'm thinking of the three connections to the left of the IAT sensor. It shouldn't matter because they all are "looking" for vacuum, but you never know.
smartypants
06-12-2010, 05:48 PM
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smartpants,
I think we are on the same boat now. This afternoon, the CEL came back again with TCS light but it was P1491 not p0401 anymore.
I cleaned the port and EGR valve before. Maybe I should not touch the EGR valve at all.
Have you fixed your P1491 already? If yes, could you tell me what you did
I really hate those codes!!! DAMN
-mm
I think we are on the same boat now. This afternoon, the CEL came back again with TCS light but it was P1491 not p0401 anymore.
I cleaned the port and EGR valve before. Maybe I should not touch the EGR valve at all.
Have you fixed your P1491 already? If yes, could you tell me what you did
I really hate those codes!!! DAMN
-mm
Hi mashimario :
I think you're on the right track.
If there is an air leak the computer will try and compensate to the extent it can which may not be enough. If the leak is after the sensor, the computer will set the engine parameters incorrectly and cause symptoms like you're describing. In either case, you need to check for loose bolts/nuts or open vacuum lines. You also might have two vac lines switched. I'm thinking of the three connections to the left of the IAT sensor. It shouldn't matter because they all are "looking" for vacuum, but you never know.
smartypants
I think you're on the right track.
If there is an air leak the computer will try and compensate to the extent it can which may not be enough. If the leak is after the sensor, the computer will set the engine parameters incorrectly and cause symptoms like you're describing. In either case, you need to check for loose bolts/nuts or open vacuum lines. You also might have two vac lines switched. I'm thinking of the three connections to the left of the IAT sensor. It shouldn't matter because they all are "looking" for vacuum, but you never know.
smartypants
06-12-2010, 11:10 PM
#18
if its a carbon issue- Seafoam the manifold vac port at TB and spray thru the TB air inlet as well, and while running,, do there too
you may have knocked some crud loose and now its in a bad place - coating a sensor?
what method did you use to clean the egr ports? and passageway thru manifold
How many cans of carberator cleaner did you use?
and water rinsed it thru the intake mouth?- turning and rinsing several times thru each opening
followed by turning to let water out of trapped areas- followed by compressed air- or hair dryer thru all openings with turning and shaking of manifold to rid trapped water droplets or crud
anything close to that?
you may have knocked some crud loose and now its in a bad place - coating a sensor?
what method did you use to clean the egr ports? and passageway thru manifold
How many cans of carberator cleaner did you use?
and water rinsed it thru the intake mouth?- turning and rinsing several times thru each opening
followed by turning to let water out of trapped areas- followed by compressed air- or hair dryer thru all openings with turning and shaking of manifold to rid trapped water droplets or crud
anything close to that?
06-12-2010, 11:34 PM
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Hi 01tl4tl,
I have to say "nothing close to that". I will clean the manifold again for sure. I am wondering if I need to remove those manifold side caps as well such as the PCV joint, vacuum boost chamber... If yes, do I need to replace their gaskets. In the DIY list, the OP did remove all the joints (https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/diy-thermoblok-spacers-install-egr-cleaning-615644/) but he didn't mention if he replaced all the gaskets.
Thanks a lot
-mm
I have to say "nothing close to that". I will clean the manifold again for sure. I am wondering if I need to remove those manifold side caps as well such as the PCV joint, vacuum boost chamber... If yes, do I need to replace their gaskets. In the DIY list, the OP did remove all the joints (https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/diy-thermoblok-spacers-install-egr-cleaning-615644/) but he didn't mention if he replaced all the gaskets.
Thanks a lot
-mm
if its a carbon issue- Seafoam the manifold vac port at TB and spray thru the TB air inlet as well, and while running,, do there too
you may have knocked some crud loose and now its in a bad place - coating a sensor?
what method did you use to clean the egr ports? and passageway thru manifold
How many cans of carberator cleaner did you use?
and water rinsed it thru the intake mouth?- turning and rinsing several times thru each opening
followed by turning to let water out of trapped areas- followed by compressed air- or hair dryer thru all openings with turning and shaking of manifold to rid trapped water droplets or crud
anything close to that?
you may have knocked some crud loose and now its in a bad place - coating a sensor?
what method did you use to clean the egr ports? and passageway thru manifold
How many cans of carberator cleaner did you use?
and water rinsed it thru the intake mouth?- turning and rinsing several times thru each opening
followed by turning to let water out of trapped areas- followed by compressed air- or hair dryer thru all openings with turning and shaking of manifold to rid trapped water droplets or crud
anything close to that?
06-12-2010, 11:34 PM
#20
No, I didn't remove those sensors. I just sprayed the TB cleaner inside the TB, and then use the brush and cloth to clean it.
The idle is not smooth, just like the misfiring or something. So I think there is still a leak.
I will try to clean the EGR valve joint and all the electrical connectors first, if the problem is still there, I am gonna to remove the IACV to clean it, if it's still there, I may replace it.
Do you have any idea about IAT and the TPS locations? The reason I asked this is that I started the car first then I found I didn't plug in the side sensor on the TB. (There are three sensors on the TB, top, side and bottom, it seems the bottom one is the IACV. Is it also called rotary air control? The top one is the MAP, I googled it, it is manifold absolute pressure sensor.) I couldn't find any information about the side one.
The idle is not smooth, just like the misfiring or something. So I think there is still a leak.
I will try to clean the EGR valve joint and all the electrical connectors first, if the problem is still there, I am gonna to remove the IACV to clean it, if it's still there, I may replace it.
Do you have any idea about IAT and the TPS locations? The reason I asked this is that I started the car first then I found I didn't plug in the side sensor on the TB. (There are three sensors on the TB, top, side and bottom, it seems the bottom one is the IACV. Is it also called rotary air control? The top one is the MAP, I googled it, it is manifold absolute pressure sensor.) I couldn't find any information about the side one.
anyways that side one is the TPS sensor
and FYI all those sensors are on the TB itself
06-12-2010, 11:37 PM
#21
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Could you also give me some instructions to clean the port and passageway? I just used the drill bit to clean the port by hand, then sprayed some cleaner. I know coat hanger is helpful but I am not sure how to use it. Bend the hanger and insert it into the port, or use the hanger to clean the passageway? Thanks again.
if its a carbon issue- Seafoam the manifold vac port at TB and spray thru the TB air inlet as well, and while running,, do there too
you may have knocked some crud loose and now its in a bad place - coating a sensor?
what method did you use to clean the egr ports? and passageway thru manifold
How many cans of carberator cleaner did you use?
and water rinsed it thru the intake mouth?- turning and rinsing several times thru each opening
followed by turning to let water out of trapped areas- followed by compressed air- or hair dryer thru all openings with turning and shaking of manifold to rid trapped water droplets or crud
anything close to that?
you may have knocked some crud loose and now its in a bad place - coating a sensor?
what method did you use to clean the egr ports? and passageway thru manifold
How many cans of carberator cleaner did you use?
and water rinsed it thru the intake mouth?- turning and rinsing several times thru each opening
followed by turning to let water out of trapped areas- followed by compressed air- or hair dryer thru all openings with turning and shaking of manifold to rid trapped water droplets or crud
anything close to that?
06-12-2010, 11:45 PM
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Hi friesm2000,
Thanks. These three codes are gone. Now I got a new one P1491. I am gonna to reclean the port really well this time. I know you help xlost4 a lot to fix his EGR problem. And I have a hard time to imagine using coat hanger to clean the port. Could you give me more details?
Thanks a lot!
-mm
Thanks. These three codes are gone. Now I got a new one P1491. I am gonna to reclean the port really well this time. I know you help xlost4 a lot to fix his EGR problem. And I have a hard time to imagine using coat hanger to clean the port. Could you give me more details?
Thanks a lot!
-mm
06-13-2010, 12:01 AM
#23
yeah i saw more of the thread after i posted 
as far as that coat hanger, you cut it with a pair of wire cutters/dykes
then bend it striaght and kinda just start poking in the port, should not be too complicated
all you are basically trying to do is mechanical dislodge the block, so the cleaner can carry away the crud when you spray it afterwards
as far as that coat hanger, you cut it with a pair of wire cutters/dykes
then bend it striaght and kinda just start poking in the port, should not be too complicated
all you are basically trying to do is mechanical dislodge the block, so the cleaner can carry away the crud when you spray it afterwards
06-13-2010, 12:07 AM
#24
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Got you. Will do that tomorrow. Many thanks!
yeah i saw more of the thread after i posted
as far as that coat hanger, you cut it with a pair of wire cutters/dykes
then bend it striaght and kinda just start poking in the port, should not be too complicated
all you are basically trying to do is mechanical dislodge the block, so the cleaner can carry away the crud when you spray it afterwards
as far as that coat hanger, you cut it with a pair of wire cutters/dykes
then bend it striaght and kinda just start poking in the port, should not be too complicated
all you are basically trying to do is mechanical dislodge the block, so the cleaner can carry away the crud when you spray it afterwards
06-13-2010, 10:17 AM
#26
Hi mashimario :
Yes, I really do hate these codes as well. I call the CEL the "recurring revenue indicator". Imagine if we had to take it to the stealer every time it came on !
I still have the P1491 code. I re-cleaned the ports with both the IM and the EGR valve removed. I poked the coat hanger down inside the head journals as far as I could and rattled it around with liberal amounts of carb cleaner. However, I still have no way of knowing if the stupid thing is still blocked or not.
That's why I wanted to run the engine for a shot time with the EGR valve removed to see if there is a good stream of exhaust gas coming through. However, I'm concerned I may get flames which might set the engine on fire. Nobody seems to have done this crazy stunt to advise me of what to expect.
My next move is to replace the EGR valve and see if that corrects it. I'm told these valves rarely fail so there's a good chance I'll end up back at square one. I'm thinking of jumping a wire to permanently disable this thing.
smartypants
Yes, I really do hate these codes as well. I call the CEL the "recurring revenue indicator". Imagine if we had to take it to the stealer every time it came on !
I still have the P1491 code. I re-cleaned the ports with both the IM and the EGR valve removed. I poked the coat hanger down inside the head journals as far as I could and rattled it around with liberal amounts of carb cleaner. However, I still have no way of knowing if the stupid thing is still blocked or not.
That's why I wanted to run the engine for a shot time with the EGR valve removed to see if there is a good stream of exhaust gas coming through. However, I'm concerned I may get flames which might set the engine on fire. Nobody seems to have done this crazy stunt to advise me of what to expect.
My next move is to replace the EGR valve and see if that corrects it. I'm told these valves rarely fail so there's a good chance I'll end up back at square one. I'm thinking of jumping a wire to permanently disable this thing.
smartypants
Last edited by smartypants; 06-13-2010 at 10:25 AM.
06-13-2010, 11:04 AM
#27
the DIY egr cleaning has the procedure
the drill bit on acura method was to enlarge the port on 99s so a sleeve could be inserted..must soak and poke the clogs inside the manifold for the egr passageway(s)
note '00 and on have 6 ports
optional to remove the side plates- called plenums- but they can use a scrubbing too.
reuse their gaskets
the drill bit on acura method was to enlarge the port on 99s so a sleeve could be inserted..must soak and poke the clogs inside the manifold for the egr passageway(s)
note '00 and on have 6 ports
optional to remove the side plates- called plenums- but they can use a scrubbing too.
reuse their gaskets
06-13-2010, 02:09 PM
#28
Hi mashimario :
Yes, I really do hate these codes as well. I call the CEL the "recurring revenue indicator". Imagine if we had to take it to the stealer every time it came on !
I still have the P1491 code. I re-cleaned the ports with both the IM and the EGR valve removed. I poked the coat hanger down inside the head journals as far as I could and rattled it around with liberal amounts of carb cleaner. However, I still have no way of knowing if the stupid thing is still blocked or not.
That's why I wanted to run the engine for a shot time with the EGR valve removed to see if there is a good stream of exhaust gas coming through. However, I'm concerned I may get flames which might set the engine on fire. Nobody seems to have done this crazy stunt to advise me of what to expect.
My next move is to replace the EGR valve and see if that corrects it. I'm told these valves rarely fail so there's a good chance I'll end up back at square one. I'm thinking of jumping a wire to permanently disable this thing.
smartypants
Yes, I really do hate these codes as well. I call the CEL the "recurring revenue indicator". Imagine if we had to take it to the stealer every time it came on !
I still have the P1491 code. I re-cleaned the ports with both the IM and the EGR valve removed. I poked the coat hanger down inside the head journals as far as I could and rattled it around with liberal amounts of carb cleaner. However, I still have no way of knowing if the stupid thing is still blocked or not.
That's why I wanted to run the engine for a shot time with the EGR valve removed to see if there is a good stream of exhaust gas coming through. However, I'm concerned I may get flames which might set the engine on fire. Nobody seems to have done this crazy stunt to advise me of what to expect.
My next move is to replace the EGR valve and see if that corrects it. I'm told these valves rarely fail so there's a good chance I'll end up back at square one. I'm thinking of jumping a wire to permanently disable this thing.
smartypants
06-13-2010, 06:25 PM
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spent several hours, used 6 cans of TB cleaner to fully clean the TB, IACV and manifold today. Used the coat hanger to clean the port as well. Now, I am waiting for TB gaskets to put everything back.
06-13-2010, 06:44 PM
#30
so you did a better job this time, removed all the sensors- rinsed it out with water and dried fully?
06-13-2010, 09:12 PM
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I think so, coz I did see a lot of carbon coming out this time. I removed all the joints in the picture, since all the gaskets are metal I think I just reuse them.
But I didn't remove the senosr around the corner. I just disconnected it but didn't remove it.
Hopefully the water didn't damage it.
But I didn't remove the senosr around the corner. I just disconnected it but didn't remove it.
Hopefully the water didn't damage it.
06-15-2010, 12:06 PM
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Hi guys,
I got the throttle body gaskets and IACV gasket today and put everything back. Geeze, the car jumps again between 1.25k and 2k rpm. Now I am really lost and dying. Do I need to replace the IACV? For this kind of rpm jumping, is it because of a bad IACV or vacuum leak?
Thanks
-mm
I got the throttle body gaskets and IACV gasket today and put everything back. Geeze, the car jumps again between 1.25k and 2k rpm. Now I am really lost and dying. Do I need to replace the IACV? For this kind of rpm jumping, is it because of a bad IACV or vacuum leak?
Thanks
-mm
06-15-2010, 03:34 PM
#34
more then likely a leak, and the surging is from the IACV trying to relearn the idle and such with that leak
but anyways are you sure everything is reconnected fully (including the fuel pressure regulator, reason i ask is that it is easy to miss, since it is kinda hidden)
it's the vacuum line the goes behind the IAT sensor in this photo
but anyways are you sure everything is reconnected fully (including the fuel pressure regulator, reason i ask is that it is easy to miss, since it is kinda hidden)
it's the vacuum line the goes behind the IAT sensor in this photo
06-15-2010, 03:48 PM
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Hi friesm2000,
I checked everything, I am pretty sure everything is reconnected. Do you think I should replace those metal gaskets as well? I just used the TB cleaner to clean and reuse them.
Now I am thinking three things: EGR valve, IACV and PCV. Do you think if one of them is bad, will the car have this symptom?
Thanks
-mm
I checked everything, I am pretty sure everything is reconnected. Do you think I should replace those metal gaskets as well? I just used the TB cleaner to clean and reuse them.
Now I am thinking three things: EGR valve, IACV and PCV. Do you think if one of them is bad, will the car have this symptom?
Thanks
-mm
more then likely a leak, and the surging is from the IACV trying to relearn the idle and such with that leak
but anyways are you sure everything is reconnected fully (including the fuel pressure regulator, reason i ask is that it is easy to miss, since it is kinda hidden)
it's the vacuum line the goes behind the IAT sensor in this photo
but anyways are you sure everything is reconnected fully (including the fuel pressure regulator, reason i ask is that it is easy to miss, since it is kinda hidden)
it's the vacuum line the goes behind the IAT sensor in this photo
06-15-2010, 03:53 PM
#36
did you replace the EGR gasket too???
and when you did said gaskets (egr, iacv, tb) did you make sure the surfaces where clean of the old gaskets, they like to stick quite often and kinda fall apart (otherwise a good seal will be hard to get)
and i would doable check to make sure all the connections are connected first before going any further
and while you are at it, make sure you did not tear/crack any of the hoses also, when you had tried removeing them, they like to kinda get stuck to the connections also (and this last time, you might have just finally finished tearing one open)
and when you did said gaskets (egr, iacv, tb) did you make sure the surfaces where clean of the old gaskets, they like to stick quite often and kinda fall apart (otherwise a good seal will be hard to get)
and i would doable check to make sure all the connections are connected first before going any further
and while you are at it, make sure you did not tear/crack any of the hoses also, when you had tried removeing them, they like to kinda get stuck to the connections also (and this last time, you might have just finally finished tearing one open)
Last edited by friesm2000; 06-15-2010 at 03:57 PM.
06-15-2010, 04:03 PM
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Yes, I also replaced the EGR valve gasket. I am pretty sure all the gaskets in the pictures you pointed out are metal. I will try to find the torque specifications for those bolts to see if I tighten them correctly.
did you replace the EGR gasket too???
and when you did said gaskets (egr, iacv, tb) did you make sure the surfaces where clean of the old gaskets, they like to stick quite often and kinda fall apart (otherwise a good seal will be hard to get)
and i would doable check to make sure all the connections are connected first before going any further
and while you are at it, make sure you did not tear/crack any of the hoses also, when you had tried removeing them, they like to kinda get stuck to the connections also (and this last time, you might have just finally finished tearing one open)
and when you did said gaskets (egr, iacv, tb) did you make sure the surfaces where clean of the old gaskets, they like to stick quite often and kinda fall apart (otherwise a good seal will be hard to get)
and i would doable check to make sure all the connections are connected first before going any further
and while you are at it, make sure you did not tear/crack any of the hoses also, when you had tried removeing them, they like to kinda get stuck to the connections also (and this last time, you might have just finally finished tearing one open)
06-15-2010, 05:45 PM
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Yes, I cleaned them very well. Since I reset the ECU after putting everything back, the CEL is still off but I just got a pending code P1491.
Do you know how to clean the EGR valve port:
I cleaned the surface really well but didn't clean the holes well. I am planning to remove the EGR valve and take it apart to clean it. If possible, clean these holes as well.
Do you know how to clean the EGR valve port:
I cleaned the surface really well but didn't clean the holes well. I am planning to remove the EGR valve and take it apart to clean it. If possible, clean these holes as well.