Help with replacing oil pan

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-25-2007, 12:30 PM
  #1  
Kilos of yayo in
Thread Starter
 
Billy Sacco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Las Vegas
Age: 44
Posts: 619
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Help with replacing oil pan

Hey all just need some advice on replacing my oil pan. My oil pan got punctured and it's patched right now and holding up ok but I would rather just replace it to be sure. I have the oil pan and the hondabond but was unsure about one thing. I know I will need to remove the downpipe to get the sucker off but do I also need to unbolt the subframe that is right there? Or would I be able to get to the bolts without having to unblot that? I think its called the sub frame. I have not been under there in a little while but the bolts on one side are kind of being blocked but I never really reached my hand in there. Just wondering if anyone had any expierience doing this and if so did you only have to remove the downpipe? If I do have to unblot that part would some part of the car like fall down would it need to be supported? And also any tips or tricks on this would be appreciated thanks.
Old 01-25-2007, 03:37 PM
  #2  
Team Owner
 
01tl4tl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Age: 64
Posts: 33,535
Received 1,137 Likes on 1,067 Posts
BillyS

How did you puncture the oil pan. There has been recent discussion on the relative safety of the oil filter and the quick drain oil plug.

Did you take a rock hit or what? Road debris? Jumping the Grand Canyon?

For help- try sending a PM to moderator fsstyms1
That guy knows everything!

If all else fails- can some JB Weld be applied to the pan and that will take car of you?
You may be a bit young to be familiar with this old school repair material for crack repair
Old 01-25-2007, 04:35 PM
  #3  
COTM Coordinator
 
MurkyRiversTL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Apple Valley, Ca
Age: 41
Posts: 3,211
Received 15 Likes on 10 Posts
no you don't have to remove the subframe or whatever its called. I just did this like 2 weeks ago. you have to unbolt the downpipe, the o2 sensor and whatever senor that is behind the cat. oh and the hanger in front of the cat. unbolt the right bolt and the whole hanger will come down.

As for the bolt if you have a gear wrench that would be the way to go. or a regular wrench but that will take a long time.

If you have anyother questions feel free to pm me. like I said I just did this same thing not too long ago.
Old 01-25-2007, 09:48 PM
  #4  
Senior Moderator
 
fsttyms1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Appleton WI
Age: 49
Posts: 81,383
Received 3,063 Likes on 2,119 Posts
Old 01-26-2007, 09:05 AM
  #5  
Kilos of yayo in
Thread Starter
 
Billy Sacco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Las Vegas
Age: 44
Posts: 619
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I am kind of embarassed to admit but when I was doing my engine mount I was supporting the engine with the jack when all of a sudden heard a loud bang. It's more of a hairline crack but just enough to make oil start dripping everywhere. If I ever do it again I will do it off the tranny and I would recommend to the same to anyone else swapping engine mount. 01Tl yes your right. As recommended by a friend I used some quicksteel to seal the crack after degreasing it. The stuff seems to be holding up great. I have been real paranoid checking it every day since and its solid. Got the engine mount in but I would rather be sure and just swap the oil pan. I think I am going to use jb weld or quicksteel on the other side of the crack too and keep it as a spare. Oh well lessons learned but thanks all good to know I don't have to take everything apart. I am going to do the XS headers at the same time so doing this should put me about halfway through the process.
Old 01-26-2007, 09:11 AM
  #6  
Senior Moderator
 
fsttyms1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Appleton WI
Age: 49
Posts: 81,383
Received 3,063 Likes on 2,119 Posts
Originally Posted by Billy Sacco
I am kind of embarassed to admit but when I was doing my engine mount I was supporting the engine with the jack when all of a sudden heard a loud bang. It's more of a hairline crack but just enough to make oil start dripping everywhere. If I ever do it again I will do it off the tranny and I would recommend to the same to anyone else swapping engine mount. 01Tl yes your right. As recommended by a friend I used some quicksteel to seal the crack after degreasing it. The stuff seems to be holding up great. I have been real paranoid checking it every day since and its solid. Got the engine mount in but I would rather be sure and just swap the oil pan. I think I am going to use jb weld or quicksteel on the other side of the crack too and keep it as a spare. Oh well lessons learned but thanks all good to know I don't have to take everything apart. I am going to do the XS headers at the same time so doing this should put me about halfway through the process.
Ok, 2 suggestions. Im assuming the jack had a lifting pad about 2" ore smaller??? Get one with a 4-5 inch lift pad. they are safer.

2nd you wont be able to support teh engine way over by the tranny. Next time if your were to do it, place a board between the 2.
Old 01-26-2007, 09:55 AM
  #7  
Kilos of yayo in
Thread Starter
 
Billy Sacco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Las Vegas
Age: 44
Posts: 619
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Ok, 2 suggestions. Im assuming the jack had a lifting pad about 2" ore smaller??? Get one with a 4-5 inch lift pad. they are safer.

2nd you wont be able to support teh engine way over by the tranny. Next time if your were to do it, place a board between the 2.
Yeah next time . Thanks for the suggestions!
Old 01-26-2007, 10:32 AM
  #8  
Senior Moderator
 
fsttyms1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Appleton WI
Age: 49
Posts: 81,383
Received 3,063 Likes on 2,119 Posts
Any time
Old 01-26-2007, 03:27 PM
  #9  
Team Owner
 
01tl4tl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Age: 64
Posts: 33,535
Received 1,137 Likes on 1,067 Posts
If you did a good job cleaning and prepping the surface and the stuff is holding, just leave it alone. Putting more on the inside is asking for trouble

I did an emergency repair on a cracked block and striiped alternator bracket on the tow truck for the race car. Still works just fine!

A block of wood is always recommended between metal pans and floor jacks
Old 01-26-2007, 05:19 PM
  #10  
2000 acura tl FPR
iTrader: (1)
 
assclown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Age: 39
Posts: 2,824
Received 58 Likes on 50 Posts
Originally Posted by Billy Sacco
I am kind of embarassed to admit but when I was doing my engine mount I was supporting the engine with the jack when all of a sudden heard a loud bang. It's more of a hairline crack but just enough to make oil start dripping everywhere. If I ever do it again I will do it off the tranny and I would recommend to the same to anyone else swapping engine mount. 01Tl yes your right. As recommended by a friend I used some quicksteel to seal the crack after degreasing it. The stuff seems to be holding up great. I have been real paranoid checking it every day since and its solid. Got the engine mount in but I would rather be sure and just swap the oil pan. I think I am going to use jb weld or quicksteel on the other side of the crack too and keep it as a spare. Oh well lessons learned but thanks all good to know I don't have to take everything apart. I am going to do the XS headers at the same time so doing this should put me about halfway through the process.

if it makes you feel better, i pretty much did the same thing when i was changing the timing belt on my galant a couple years ago. i undid the engine mounts and i jacked the engine up from the oil pan granted, it didn't crack, but it did leave a nasty little dent in the bottom. thank god the dent wasn't too big to where it got in the way of the crank shaft. i never did replace the oil pan. haha.
Old 01-28-2007, 05:55 PM
  #11  
Moderator
 
SodaLuvr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Walnut Creek, CA
Posts: 3,965
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes on 8 Posts
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
A block of wood is always recommended between metal pans and floor jacks


I used a block of wood between the oil pan and floor jack when I replaced the mount on my GM.

Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
foxriderar77
Car Talk
39
11-19-2020 10:17 AM
kmarqueling
Car Parts for Sale
1
10-03-2015 01:14 AM
Aleax
3G TL Problems & Fixes
2
09-11-2015 11:31 AM
Allen_442
2G TL (1999-2003)
10
09-08-2015 06:01 PM



Quick Reply: Help with replacing oil pan



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:00 AM.