HELP PLEASE 2002 TL Type S Went from 80 to 0 on HWY
09-24-2019, 01:12 PM
#1
HELP PLEASE 2002 TL Type S Went from 80 to 0 on HWY
Hello Members, I am new to this community and hope someone out there can give me advice or suggestions. My 2002 Acura TL Type S (with new transmission) went from 80 to 0 on the HWY all by itself after driving 1/2 hour. I might add the weather was pretty hot and I had the air conditioning on. After panicking I shut off the air, kept pumping on the gas and it began picking up speed again. I was able to get off the highway and drove the car just fine for an additional 3 months with no problems. But months later when driving again for 1/2 hour or more on HWY it did the same thing (went from 80mph to 0mph) but this time it just died and never started again. It's been sitting dead for months now because one mechanic told me probably the timing belt, another told me probably the main relay, another told me might be the valves and head and that could be thousands to fix. I have learned for sure that It is an inference engine. Any suggestions/advice would be deeply appreciated because I love my Acura but I don't have thousands to fix it and live on meager income. TYIA Dee
09-24-2019, 02:52 PM
#2
Senior Moderator
Did the gauges turn off as well? Check your battery/alternator and battery cables. I've had that happen with a loose battery terminal and the car shutting off on me.
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Arkady (09-24-2019)
04-29-2020, 10:21 PM
#4
Replacing the main relay is a 10 minute job and the relay needed can be found for $22 - $95 new. Someone familiar can do it in 5 min.
The main relay is also called the PGM-FI relay. Unfortunately, getting at it might be slightly difficult if you can't get on your back under the driver's side dash.
There is a thread here with excellent pictures and steps to get at it. The relay often goes bad due to soldered connections that come loose. Once you find the little plastic box holding it, you can "thump" the box while starting the car. if that works, you know that was the issue. if it doesn't, you haven't eliminated it as the cause. Honda/Acura cars seem to have that component fail fairly often. Mine did in a 2001 CL.
Leaving a car sit for months is bad for it. You can look up all the issues with that.
The main relay is also called the PGM-FI relay. Unfortunately, getting at it might be slightly difficult if you can't get on your back under the driver's side dash.
There is a thread here with excellent pictures and steps to get at it. The relay often goes bad due to soldered connections that come loose. Once you find the little plastic box holding it, you can "thump" the box while starting the car. if that works, you know that was the issue. if it doesn't, you haven't eliminated it as the cause. Honda/Acura cars seem to have that component fail fairly often. Mine did in a 2001 CL.
Leaving a car sit for months is bad for it. You can look up all the issues with that.
07-09-2020, 02:59 PM
#5
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PGM-FI Main Relay
I have found only RockAuto has a similar part, but my Service Manual (11-99 for 1999 Acura TL) shows EIGHT terminals vs Rock Auto's Three!
I have not removed it. Yet.
There are some great pictures and directions on removing the relay and the associated circuit board which is most likely the cause.
"Bad Dry Joints" These are soldered "points/dots that have developed poor contacts over time and varying temperatures (especially over 90 degrees with a closed non-running parked car).
Re-soldering these joints usually worked!
I'm not at that point right now. First I need to see where this relay is available and if the Circuit board is part of it.
I have not removed it. Yet.
There are some great pictures and directions on removing the relay and the associated circuit board which is most likely the cause.
"Bad Dry Joints" These are soldered "points/dots that have developed poor contacts over time and varying temperatures (especially over 90 degrees with a closed non-running parked car).
Re-soldering these joints usually worked!
I'm not at that point right now. First I need to see where this relay is available and if the Circuit board is part of it.
07-09-2020, 04:14 PM
#6
Burning Brakes
I have found only RockAuto has a similar part, but my Service Manual (11-99 for 1999 Acura TL) shows EIGHT terminals vs Rock Auto's Three!
I have not removed it. Yet.
There are some great pictures and directions on removing the relay and the associated circuit board which is most likely the cause.
"Bad Dry Joints" These are soldered "points/dots that have developed poor contacts over time and varying temperatures (especially over 90 degrees with a closed non-running parked car).
Re-soldering these joints usually worked!
I'm not at that point right now. First I need to see where this relay is available and if the Circuit board is part of it.
I have not removed it. Yet.
There are some great pictures and directions on removing the relay and the associated circuit board which is most likely the cause.
"Bad Dry Joints" These are soldered "points/dots that have developed poor contacts over time and varying temperatures (especially over 90 degrees with a closed non-running parked car).
Re-soldering these joints usually worked!
I'm not at that point right now. First I need to see where this relay is available and if the Circuit board is part of it.
Are you looking at the right part on rockauto? did you flip through alternate pics of the part? i see an 8 terminal plug, one pic shows only the side with 3 contacts, but another picture shows all 7 (one does not have a contact) which matches the relay diagram for 99 model found on page 11-63 (or page 339 in the pdf version).
Also, take a look around the forum; I recall seeing someone found a relay that features integrated circuits (IC) chips which some tend to favor as there are no moving parts within.
07-10-2020, 06:24 AM
#7
Null and proud of it
When you posted 80-0, I was thinking the transmission locked. Ya know, that does happen on these cars some, but when it doeskock up, it's more like a parachute was deployed and you come to an instant, tire screeching hault.
Now, what you described sounds electrical.
Easy guess would be loose or corroded battery terminals.
Now, what you described sounds electrical.
Easy guess would be loose or corroded battery terminals.
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07-10-2020, 06:19 PM
#8
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Replacing the main relay is a 10 minute job and the relay needed can be found for $22 - $95 new. Someone familiar can do it in 5 min.
The main relay is also called the PGM-FI relay. Unfortunately, getting at it might be slightly difficult if you can't get on your back under the driver's side dash.
There is a thread here with excellent pictures and steps to get at it. The relay often goes bad due to soldered connections that come loose. Once you find the little plastic box holding it, you can "thump" the box while starting the car. if that works, you know that was the issue. if it doesn't, you haven't eliminated it as the cause. Honda/Acura cars seem to have that component fail fairly often. Mine did in a 2001 CL.
Leaving a car sit for months is bad for it. You can look up all the issues with that.
The main relay is also called the PGM-FI relay. Unfortunately, getting at it might be slightly difficult if you can't get on your back under the driver's side dash.
There is a thread here with excellent pictures and steps to get at it. The relay often goes bad due to soldered connections that come loose. Once you find the little plastic box holding it, you can "thump" the box while starting the car. if that works, you know that was the issue. if it doesn't, you haven't eliminated it as the cause. Honda/Acura cars seem to have that component fail fairly often. Mine did in a 2001 CL.
Leaving a car sit for months is bad for it. You can look up all the issues with that.
How do I unlock or release it?
Thanks
07-11-2020, 10:52 AM
#9
Senior Moderator
Use a flathead screwdriver to “unlock” it
07-11-2020, 02:15 PM
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Thanks much for your quick reply. My car is a 1999 TL, so it was/is probably a LITTLE different from a 2002. However I did the entire relay out by:
1. the electrical lead on the brake switch
2. Using a 10mm wrench open is quicker then a box
3. This allows the Bracket and the relay to be maneuvered down to where you can easily remove the electrical connector.
4 Now with the relay and bracket in hand it is MUCH easier to remove from the bracket.
5 I had to use a knife blade (thinner then a screw driver) to get enough separation for the "TAB" to clear the bracket.
6. To replace the bracket I had to remove the brake switch (unscrews) to allow enough room to get the bracket in place and be able to START the bolt into its proper spot.
7. I inspected the original circuit board. It LOOKED perfect. I know from other guys replies that the solder joints might be invisible. My problem was Random engine failure. The latest was when the temperature was over 90 degrees and the car was in the sun (windows closed) for over an hour. I have the new relay on order.
Thanks again .
1. the electrical lead on the brake switch
2. Using a 10mm wrench open is quicker then a box
3. This allows the Bracket and the relay to be maneuvered down to where you can easily remove the electrical connector.
4 Now with the relay and bracket in hand it is MUCH easier to remove from the bracket.
5 I had to use a knife blade (thinner then a screw driver) to get enough separation for the "TAB" to clear the bracket.
6. To replace the bracket I had to remove the brake switch (unscrews) to allow enough room to get the bracket in place and be able to START the bolt into its proper spot.
7. I inspected the original circuit board. It LOOKED perfect. I know from other guys replies that the solder joints might be invisible. My problem was Random engine failure. The latest was when the temperature was over 90 degrees and the car was in the sun (windows closed) for over an hour. I have the new relay on order.
Thanks again .
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scjones
2G TL (1999-2003)
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