Originally Posted by jproy

update,

I have been hearing a sound coming from the motor at 6-7K RPM with the blower that I thought was knock. It is the same noise I had when I had the MP62 on the car with the 4-5 psi alternator pulley near the end of the 30,000 miles I had it on for. There was no noise when I first installed the blower. It almost sounds like an intermittent sparking sound that is loud and can easily be heard inside the car only at WOT. It happens about 5-10 times with each pull through a gear at the 6-7K RPM in any gear.

I removed the blower, put the stock injectors back in, reinstalled the stock crank pulley, and removed the AEM FIC-6 and the noise is still there now. I am going to remove the accessory belts and then run it through the gears to see if it is an accessory related bearing. If the noise goes away then great, I know it is accessory related. If it doesn’t go away then I know it is one of the pulleys on the timing belt or the main bearings/crank bearings are toast, or there is a problem on the top side of the motor.

Most of you don’t know but I was a tester for a new set of race cams for our car but they failed miserably to make ANY power, 150WHP max! I put the stockers back in, adjusted the valves and the power came right back. That was long after the noise started with the old blower and I currently have perfect compression, 240-250psi on all pistons. If the motor ends up being the culprit I will get a new one week after next and swap it in and go from there.

With the stock crank pulley installed I got back all the timing the ECU was pulling and am now getting the full 28+ degrees advance from the ECM at WOT. I have also notice that the hotter it is outside the less timing advance the ECM will run. At 79 degrees outside I saw 28+ degrees of advance and when it got up to 93 degrees outside today the advance dropped down to 26 max advance. Since it was 103 outside when the car was only showing 22 degrees max advance I am wondering if it was just temperature related. I think the UR crank pulley had something to do with it but I am not sure. I will know for sure if I end up having to pull the motor when I inspect the rod and crank bearings. Whatever the noise is I am also wondering if the stock knock sensor is thinking it is knock and pulling timing but since it is not now and the noise is still there, who knows?

I think I have figured out why the AEM was causing so much of a problem with the MAP sensor and know how to fix it. It was just a tuning issue, setting up the AEM FIC correctly. I now know how to work the damn thing and tune it myself. I just have to eliminate this noise before I can move forward with the blower project. To 3.5L or not, oh the decisions?

I will be out of town for a week so I won’t give an update until I get back and can turn some more wrenches. Jim

Originally Posted by DC3328

Originally Posted by Rajca

Take the cams to the shop and tell them to make each lobe as big as the vtec one. That way u will have vtec at all rpms and a vtec killer car. Seach it on youtube. Sounds sick on them 4 bangers.

Originally Posted by Rajca

Take the cams to the shop and tell them to make each lobe as big as the vtec one. That way u will have vtec at all rpms and a vtec killer car. Seach it on youtube. Sounds sick on them 4 bangers.

Originally Posted by Edward'TLS

VTEC at all rpms will have serious driverability problems. When the wild-timing cam lope engages at low to mid rpms, you'll lose lots of power and torque. It is only effective at high rpms when the air flow rate is near the max., thus the OEM factory setting.

The factory cam profiles have been proven. Don't mess with it, unless you have full-time resources with the dyno tuning shop.