help me diagnose this prob?

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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 09:03 PM
  #1  
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Exclamation help me diagnose this prob?

well when comming to a stop, on very cold days i guess (like today -10Celsius) the car would shudder, like a misfire shudder. it would do a hard one at first, then the second time its more gentle..

but again its only on cold weather, and doesnt happen every time, its like once n a while, especially after starting, letting it warm for 5 min then driving off and hitting a light...

i know its not the tranny, cuz its still running smooth and doesnt do it when the weather is better outside..

i did have a cylinder misfire in cylinder 1 like 2-3 months ago, but replaced it with a used coil...could that be it? what can i do to pin point its the coil...thanks
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 09:24 PM
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Take a new good coil and ty it on each cylinder until the car runs better
Try it on the recently replaced one first- the most likely suspect
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 09:29 PM
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u think it could be a vacuum leak? i was thinkin on tryin a smoke test...

was thinkin bout gettin a new coil and trying it out, but i guess now i must do it...thanks
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Old Jan 19, 2008 | 01:32 AM
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a vac leak wont care about temp-it will always leak
It is possible the manifold vac line got disconnected recently with work in that area
Check the back of the manifold for a 1/4 inch hose

Not sure what a smoke test is- but carb spray shot at vac lines and connections will cause the idle to raise up if there is a leak found
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Old Jan 19, 2008 | 08:27 AM
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basically smoke test, we did it at school, forgot what kind of smoke it was, take off all sparkplugs/injectors, pump smoke in the intake manifold, if any seepage comes out from anywhere, then theres a leak...but ill try both the coil pack and see if the vac line got d/c...thanks
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Old Jan 19, 2008 | 10:51 AM
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Does the CEL come on when the car shudders ? Are the symptons the same as before when you diagnosed a cylinder misfire ? When you say it only does this occasionally when it's cold, maybe the idle is too low for some reason. Double check any recent work and ensure nothing is loose.
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Old Jan 19, 2008 | 11:02 AM
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I would spend 2 bucks on a can of carb cleaner to find a leak, before ripping the engine apart just for basic testing- that causes other problems

You may have had a 2nd bad coil or the used replacement crapped out
Have a parts store do a free check for fault codes

Dont buy headlight bulbs used either (exception to sales by known azine member)
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Old Jan 19, 2008 | 11:21 AM
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no cel ever comes...i dont know if this helps, but the prob was never the coil pack..what happened, the CEL just came on one day, scanned, showed misfire cylinder 1...we switched my original coil pack with the used one, the CEL came turned off, then came on the next day, so then i checked the plug, was covered in carbon, so i cleaned it with carb cleaner, put it back in and then it never came on again


so in the first place, the coil pack wasnt bad, and the plug was just dirty...i think ill buy a new coil pack and put a new plug in cylinder 1 and go from there..


also 01tl4tl where do i spray the carb cleaner? all around various hoses?
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Old Jan 19, 2008 | 11:41 AM
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Yes on the spraying- one place at a time and listen for rpm increase VAC hoses

As for carbon on the plug- thats a sign the coil wasnt working and you cant clean plugs properly- these are fine electrode plugs and must be replaced if something has happened to it
At least that 1 plug, but $45 for a set of NGK Iridiums helps most problems
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Old Jan 19, 2008 | 12:03 PM
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i recently replaced all my plugs like in aug last year, then this coilpack went back in like end of nov last year...i got a set of ngk plugs at home, so i guess ill swap out the plug and coil on that one cylinder and hopefully its all good...thanks again
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Old Jan 19, 2008 | 05:19 PM
  #11  
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hey 01tl4tl

another thing i forgot to mention, is that when comming to the stop, u can really feel the engine vibration on the steering wheel, that happens all the time....but again in cold weather..

today the car didnt shudder, but did the wheel vibration on all stops
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Old Jan 19, 2008 | 07:51 PM
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I wonder if you have a bad front motor mount
Some years- the front and rear mounts are vacuum assisted and can make the car run funny when it goes- the front is prone to failure on the TL in general- anything after 50k miles is right on schedule for a trans, and the tech sees the special oil thats also in the mount- or used to be at least, sees that on the ground or the bottem of the mount and you know its toast. Very easy to replace with trans removed
And you are running the 7 dollar NGKs? Iridium or PLatinum either is ok
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