Hey Guys,

New member here, but have been a member of several forums for a while now. As the title suggests I recently got caught in a flood in a family member's TL. Needless to say, they are not too happy and on top of that they did not have Comprehensive insurance.

So from what I can see here's what's messed. I would guess I need a new motor, I probably hydrolocked it and on top of that was sitting in water up the the upper wheel well. I probably blew out the electrical system as well. While waiting to be towed, the passenger airbag deployed (and scared me half to death). At this point the alarm also went off (read ignition in off position) and i literally decided to jump ship.

So as my first post I'd like to ask, has anyone ever swapped a complete engine and harness into a car successfully? Can anyone give me a comprehensive list of what I would need? I am also in the process of trying to find used engines and complete electrical systems, but currently can only find motors.

I am serious about completing this project if it is possible and cost effective. I really do not have anything else to go on (no insurance).

Background: I currently drive a Subaru 2.5RS w/ a 00 WRX motor in it and upgraded turbo and fuel system. I have done most of the work myself and hope that this project will not be too much harder.

Thanks for your help.

-al

 

Well first things first. Welcome to the forum.

Now Before diving in real deep as to guessing what you need, you/we need to find out what you need. Was the motor running and died in the water? I would pull all the plugs and try to crank it over. LIsten for sounds that aren't supposed to be there. Also change all the fluids. You may want to remove the interior of the car(IE.. carpet seats etc..) as for whats blown? Its possible that the ECU needs to be replaced, along with the ABS and SRS modules. its hard to say if you will need the multiplexes. As for wiring i don't think you will need to replace the harnesses. I would start with the motor and see if you can get it to crank or turn over. I wouldnt start to assume what you need till you do a little research to the car to see what actually doesnt work.

 

fsttyms1

Thanks for the feedback. At this point in time I do not know exactly what is wrong. I'm arranging to get the car back.

As for the details. Drove it into standing water which got deeper as I traveled. Eventually the headlights flashed, the motor began to bog, and then cut out. I imagine I consumed some water and kaput. Water eventually began seeping in, I sat patiently for a tow. Eventually I decided to give up, I switched it to accessory (or was it on) to get it into neutral for the tow. Factory alarm started going off, headlights flashing, etc. 30 seconds later the passenger airbag blew. At that point I left the vehicle in fear of getting hit w/ the driver airbag.

I'm not familiar w/ the term multiplexes, can you elaborate. In the meantime I'll do a search.

Thanks,
-al

 

Wow, that doesn't sound too good.

Definitely check the engine out before proceeding.

If you need a new or rebuilt engine and a pile of electrical components it could get very expensive, very quickly.

And even after being repaired, the car could have lingering electrical problems.

Before you start a repair, lay out all the anticipated costs and weight that against the value of the repaired car. The fact that the car has been in a flood lowers its resale value.

Bob

 

Here are a couple of "flooded car" links to check out.

Car Talk:

http://www.cartalk.com/content/features/flood/

Popular Mechanics:

http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_...e/1272386.html

Was it flooded with fresh water or salt water? Salt water would be bad news.

Bob

 

And here's a "Google Answers" link:

http://answers.google.com/answers/threadview?id=566637

And here are some cleaning tips from that link:

CLEANING A FLOODED CAR:


BODY CLEANING: Do exterior cleaning as quickly as possible. Sediment
remaining in contact with the paint for a prolonged period will stain
it.

INTERIOR: Remove the mats, carpets, seat covers, seats, and cushions
and give them a thorough washing with a low pressure hose.

Use a low pressure, high volume water hose to wash the interior. Keep
the rain drain opening in the bottom of the doors and quarter panels
open. Flood water past the door glass to clean the inner door and
quarter panels.

Wash all upholstery on both inner and outer surfaces using a high suds
detergent and a soft bristled brush. Allow to dry thoroughly.

MOTOR SUBMERGED: If the motor was submerged, remove all spark plugs,
drain the motor oil, transmission oil, and rear differential grease;
then turn the motor over by hand to force water from the cylinders.
Place each piston on top dead center and blow compressed air into the
cylinder through the spark plug hole to dry and clean the cylinder.
Place 1/8 of a pint of oil in each cylinder and again turn the motor
over slowly by hand.

WATER IN CRANK CASE: Usually just drain and flush the oil.

MOTOR TOP: With each piston on top dead center, blow compressed air
into spark plug hole. Flush valve and pushrod assemblies. Blow out
intake manifold.

CARBURETOR: Just clean.

TRANSMISSIONS, STANDARD: Drain, flush, and refill

TRANSMISSIONS, AUTOMATIC: Drain, remove pan and clean screen. If
sediment is present, remove torque converter, lower cover and clean.

OVERDRIVE: Drain and flush.

CLUTCH, STANDARD DRIVE: In heavy sedimentation, the clutch lower pan
should be removed and cleaned. Water can be used to wash up into the
clutch assembly.

BRAKES, MASTER CYLINDER: Remove the master cylinder, empty the
reservoir, clean and replace.

POWER BRAKE: Remove the vacuum cylinder breather hole filter and clean
or replace. Drain the water from the power brake cylinder. Also drain
and flush the master reservoir.

BRAKE DRUMS: Wipe or blow clean. Repack the front wheels. If there is
a heavy accumulation of sediment, remove and clean the rear brake
drums.

STEERING GEAR, HOUSING: Remove oil filter plug, force water out by
forcing grease in. Removal is not necessary.

REAR AXLE: Remove the grease plug. If there's water, drain and flush
the unit with kerosene.

RADIATOR: In heavy sedimentation the air passages of the radiator core
may become plugged with sediment. Blow or wash out the air passages.

EXHAUST SYSTEM: Remove any sediment that has completely blocked the
rear portion of the tail pipe. The operation of the motor will blow
out any remaining sediment.

AIR CONDITIONING: The air-conditioning unit is a sealed unit, but can
accumulate sediment in the condenser unit air passages. The condenser
is located in front of the radiator and has the appearance of a
radiator. The evaporator unit on the dash is a radiator-type unit.
Remove the blower unit to check for clogging of the air passages. Wash
air passages and clear if blocked by sediment. The blower motor may be
washed and blown dry. The magnetic clutch should be tested after the
car is started. If it does not release, remove, clean and replace.

GENERATOR: Remove, flush it with water, dry with air pressure,
lubricate, and replace.

SPARK PLUGS: Just dry spark plugs that have been submerged.

IGNITION COIL: Wash and dry the unit.

DISTRIBUTOR: Remove, disassemble, wash, dry, lubricate and replace. If
removed, the motor must be retimed. The condenser in the distributor
should be replaced.

VOLTAGE CONTROLS: Remove cover and blow dry. Clean the contact points.

WIRING: Allow wiring to dry thoroughly. It is not damaged by flood waters.

BATTERY: There will seldom be any damage to the battery.

STARTER: Remove, disassemble, wash with water, dry and replace.

SOLENOIDS: These are sealed units and require no service exterior
cleaning, unless trouble develops in starting the car.

SWITCHES: Replace only after they do not operate.

TAIL, BACK-UP, DIRECTIONAL, STOP, AND DOME LIGHTS: Remove lenses,
clean reflectors and replace.

RADIO: Remove, dry, clean with air, and replace.

HEATER MOTORS: Remove, wash, dry, and replace if they do not operate.
Examine heater core air passages for sediment. Blow out with air or
wash out.

ELECTRIC WIPERS: Motor may need washing with water and drying.

INSTRUMENTS: Remove, dry, clean, and replace.

GASOLINE TANKS: If the removal of the bottom plug reveals water, drain
and flush the tank.

SPEEDOMETER: Remove, disassemble and blow clean with air. Lubricate
and replace. Lubricate cable.

DEODORIZING: Deodorizing should generally not be necessary. Any
deodorizing work should be delayed until such time as the upholstery
is entirely dry.

LUBRICATION: All units from which the lubricant has been drained
should be lubricated and the chassis should be lubricated after
washing the under part of the car.

Source: After the Flood
( http://www.cantonmaine.com/canton/flood.htm#car )

= = = = = = = = = =

According to John Nielsen, director of AAA’s Auto Buying and Auto Repair Network,

"Total restoration of a flood-damaged car can be as extensive and
expensive as restoring a classic car," Nielsen warned. "Compare the
value of the vehicle to be restored to the cost of restoration before
proceeding with flood-related repairs."

 

Do you happen to be in Jersey? Just curious...

 

Thanks for all the info guys. Yes I am in jersey.

-al

 

oh man i thought i was toast on rt46 last night in nj. there was no warning or police there... so dumb. the water was up to mid rim. i was still scared. good luck man, apparently drainage in nj is shit.

 

same here got my car stuck in some water but not as bad as yours. First off my interior did not get wet water was up mid rim level electrical system works fine radio lights alarm everything works fine it just doesnt start. Having my insurance adjuster look at it today hopefully it's not to bad.

 

8" of rain will do that.

 

Exactly

 

Man that sucks. Hope it all works out for you.

In my town there is hardly any drainage. All it takes is a good breif rain storm and all the city streets are flooded. It's one of the main reasons I won't install a CAI.

 

There is a reason Insurance companies quickly call flooded cars SALVAGE and sells them at auction and on to some unsuspecting soul.
Just like the commercial on tv
For Sale:recent flood damage xxxxx I mean- NEW INTERIOR!!!!!

 

Can anyone tell me what a "multiplex" is? It is mentioned in the second post. I did a search and only 3 threads were returned, one of them being this one.

-al

 

I believe fsttyms was referring to the computer brain units

There are a number of sub controllers and main brain

 

It's at the dealership now getting looked at. I personally have not tried to crank it, but I dont think it will turn over the way it sits. At this point I will be doing a cost analysis and if it is not effective to fix it, then getting rid of it is what I am going to do.

So if i stray that route, does anyone have experience w/ getting rid of a flood damaged card. I would at least like to get something for it. Do salvage yards buy flood damaged cars? Ebay the whole car as a flood vehicle? Are there charities that will accept flood damaged cars for a tax break?

I really do not know anything about getting rid of a car that has suffered flood damage.

-al

BTW. . the acura dealer had 12 other flood vehicles there today!!!

 

No, the Multiplexes are the fuse panels. The do most all the controlling of the electrical components in the cars. There is more to the fuse panels than fuses.

 

Ok Kris
That'll teach me to guess and speculate about brains huh!