Edub-TL

Hey guys, I really need help on this one. I waxed my car for the very first time yesterday evening. I did it right after I washed it.
Waxed the whole body and it came out nice.
I used a clean cotton terry cloth to apply and another clean one to remove.

However, only on the hood and front fenders, I was feeling how smooth it was and I noticed that it felt like someone had flinged a handful of sand on my car. The rest of the car is smooth but the hood and fenders are this way..

After I finished waxing at 7:30PM, I waited about 2 hrs before I drove it at 9:00PM.

When I got home at 12:30, I was just admiring how nice it looked wax and just took a quick feel of it and noticed the bumbs. You cannot see any bumps, you can only feel them with your hand. If you take your fingernail and run it along the surface you can feel the little bumps.

Has this ever happened to you? What should I do? Polish and re-wax?? Could this have been caused by the engine heat??? Please help.

Thanks, -E

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"Knowledge is potential, Action is power."
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<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1" FACE="Verdana, Arial">[This message has been edited by Edub-TL on April 01, 2001 @ ]</font>

1999TL

Buff off the extra wax...I bet you still have wax that looks like dots on it.

SinnedTL

This is not true, it is not wax left over...it is contaminants that are stuck to your paint, this is where the clay bar comes in handy...you'll be amazed how well the clay bar works!!!

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2000 Satin Silver TL, 17x7.5 ATP wheels with Pirelli 215/50/17 P7000SS, H&R OE springs, OEM spoiler, K&N filter, Tint all Around. Inspire Foglight Switch, PIAA 1700X fogs, Polarg M-12 corners.

MikeS 18

I agree with this opinion. New car contaminant. Clay bar!

Guest

need a 4th opinion?...CLAYBAR

adamyankee

I was going there. but they already answered it.

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1999 Firepepper Red
Under Body Kit/Rear Wing Spoiler/26 Piece Wood Grain Console/BurlWood Shift Knob/30% Smoke Tint/Comptech Sways & Springs/02 Tails
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LORD STANLEY

Do yourself a favor and wash the car again but this time use Dawn (yes, the same stuff used for washin dishes) That will remove all the wax you just put on. Then use a clay bar to clean the contaminants and follow up with a pre-cleaner. Then I would use an acrylic polymer like Klasse and put several layers on. This will last much longer than wax ever will. Finally you might want to add a layer or two of a good carnuba like Blitz wax. Might want to visit www.autopia-carcare.com for more info.



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2001 Satin Silver TL
- Factory Rear Wing
- Factory Body Kit
- Factory Wood Kit
- Burlwood Shift Knob

StylinTLS

Whew, that last post sounded a little strenuous..lol. I'd claybar it, I use Mother's that Yellow one and it worked really really well..=) Best one I've used so far.

Edub-TL

Hey everyone, thanks for the suggestions. Turns out that there WAS some kind or contaminate on the hood. I found the same stuff on the windshield as well. Not exactly sure what it was but I was able to buff most of it off with a clean cloth. I will try the clay bar later this week.

But what gets me is why was it only on the hood and fenders and the rest of the car is smooth? Oh well..

Thanks agian no wonder this forum kicks tail!!

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SinnedTL

Edub its because the contaminants usually fall on flat surfaces, like the hood, roof, and the trunk area and the top of the rear bumper....

Shoofin

Wash the car again, Use a clearcoat scrub, or Claybar..
Ed

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Acura-TL.com - Forum Moderator

'99 TL Satin Silver/Ebony, Non/Nav, Comptech lowered, Comptech Air Filter Element, Inspire Tails, AEM Brake Pads all around, Comptech Axle Back Exhaust, "Guy Smiley" doll on the dash as my Co-driver...
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Pics of my TL
Pics of my Miata! Wadya think?

Guest

Sorry to be so dumb, but what is the "clay bar" everyone refers to?

Shoofin

You've heard about clay bars-professional detailers, body men and your car buddies all talk about how well it works. Now use the clay bar everybody wants. Created to lift the particulate debris and contaminants that washing can't, our exclusive Paint Saving System will remove embedded grains of metal, tree sap, airborne environmental deposits and paint overspray. Better yet, our clay bar isn't hazardous to your paint-it's just firm enough to pick up the bad stuff, without being too aggressive. Use Mothers® Clay Bar to get rid of paint-fouling grime and pave the way for complete waxing.

VTEC Animal

Ahhh... The rail dust culprate strikes again.... Yeah, it's really common for cars that are transported via rail to have rail dust on them. Best thing to do is to use the clay bar treatment on it, use a detail like Meguiars Final Inspection as a lubricant, and it'll remove all the dust. When you look at the bar you'll see the red rust (that's the dust that's bonded to your car). Do the whole car, then you shouldn't have a problem. I had the same problem with mine when it was delivered but the dealer automatically does that to all their cars because they all arrive via rail car. Hope that helps! BTW, I didn't use the Mequiars bar, but one called Granite, the Granite is a lot smoother than the Meguiars. Good luck finding the Granite, you'll have to go to a professional detailer or automotive paint store to find it.

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2001 Acura 3.2TL Non-Navi
Satin Silver
FormulaOne Premier 35
(Metalized 35% Tint)

VTEC Animal

Hey, that clay bar has another use too.... If you use it on your windows with windex (don't use the same bar that you use on your car body though), it will remove even heavy waterspots with ease.... Did it on the Mustang Windows before putting them back in and they were heavily waterspotted from being left in the rain and what not for a year. Windows look like new!!!