heavy rims cause rotor warp ?!?!?!?!?!?!?
#1
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heavy rims cause rotor warp ?!?!?!?!?!?!?
So I changed my rotors this week, did the whole break-in deal and today ( two days later) there was an accident in front of me maybe ten cars and i hit the brakes abs kicked in came to a semi-skreeching stop and now my steering wheel shakes again when i brake. So my question is can heavyer rims cause the rotors warp????
Oh yeah i put on the Cross drilled/slotted rotors and some ceramic brake pads
Oh yeah i put on the Cross drilled/slotted rotors and some ceramic brake pads
#4
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Originally Posted by NSXNEXT
The break-in process should be way more than a few days. You also might want to check that the wheel lugs are torqued to 80lbs.
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I did my best not to brake hard just happend that i had to lol.....should i worry or keep taking it easy??? doing the brake in proses
#6
its 80? cause i always do 100lbs. As long as they are all tightened the same u shouldnt have gotten warped, also sittin on ur breaks after stoping hard is not good, the pads keep the temp on that one part of the rotor longer, i shift into N after stoping hard.
#7
The simple answer is you probably hot spotted the brakes/have a little glaze because hard stop during first 500 miles of break in.
Just go out and do the 45 to 20mph repeated hard slow downs, maybe at a ~bit~ faster speed- at your discretion!!
see www.hawkperformance.com for details on bedding pads in
Then immediatly drive on freeway or other no stops road for 20 minutes to cool everything back down
That will usually take care of it
What rotors and pads are you using?
Just go out and do the 45 to 20mph repeated hard slow downs, maybe at a ~bit~ faster speed- at your discretion!!
see www.hawkperformance.com for details on bedding pads in
Then immediatly drive on freeway or other no stops road for 20 minutes to cool everything back down
That will usually take care of it
What rotors and pads are you using?
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#8
TLs need 80 foot pounds of lug nut torque
Since the lugs go thru the aluminum-alloy rim$$ and steel/alloy rotor$$$ and then into the axle itself, proper pattern, sequence and final torque in crucial to preserving those parts integrity!
Flat tire, Dont have a torque wrench?
Use the cars lug wrench, place bar as level as possible
Standing close to the car, place one foot on the end of the bar and push slighty- depending on your weight
160 lbs? one good foots worth is about 80 lbs
200 lbs- dont push so hard!
Since the lugs go thru the aluminum-alloy rim$$ and steel/alloy rotor$$$ and then into the axle itself, proper pattern, sequence and final torque in crucial to preserving those parts integrity!
Flat tire, Dont have a torque wrench?
Use the cars lug wrench, place bar as level as possible
Standing close to the car, place one foot on the end of the bar and push slighty- depending on your weight
160 lbs? one good foots worth is about 80 lbs
200 lbs- dont push so hard!
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ebay rotors but on them is the real brembo logo so what i think is they took brembo blanks and machined them and hawk Ceramic pads.
#10
01tl4tl is right - you probably have an uneven deposit of the break pad material on the rotor. StopTech has a good FAQ on 'juddering brakes' too:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/faqs.shtml#26
They point out that since racing pads are abrasive at low temps, you can use them to wear off the uneven deposit and clean your rotor. Don't leave them on too long, obvs.
$0.02: I suspect that just repeating the bed in procedure might not clean them.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/faqs.shtml#26
They point out that since racing pads are abrasive at low temps, you can use them to wear off the uneven deposit and clean your rotor. Don't leave them on too long, obvs.
$0.02: I suspect that just repeating the bed in procedure might not clean them.
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thanks for all the help.. I'm going to redo the bed in procedure again hope that cleans it of.
another note. after the hard brake i didnt come to a complete stop i switched lanes at the last minute and kept driving at about 20mph for a mile, the steering wheel only shakes when i go about 70 and lightly press the brakes to slow down a little bit.
another note. after the hard brake i didnt come to a complete stop i switched lanes at the last minute and kept driving at about 20mph for a mile, the steering wheel only shakes when i go about 70 and lightly press the brakes to slow down a little bit.
#12
breaking in is good, but one hard stop causing the steering wheel to shake afterward, then something is definitely Bad. If it was the rotors or the pads, then stay away from them, period.
#13
The very high quality Hawk HPS pads, right in the instructions, warn against panic stops in the first 500 miles of use.
If it happens- as life often does- a high speed re-bedding procedure will usually fix it, a little different than the nomal new pad procedure- but same idea- think faaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaster~~~~~~~~~
If it happens- as life often does- a high speed re-bedding procedure will usually fix it, a little different than the nomal new pad procedure- but same idea- think faaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaster~~~~~~~~~
#14
I found after installing my new trick and COOL RUNNING rotors #unnamed to avoid flame war# brakes (like everyone doesnt already know what I run on)
I sense a vibration in the steering I suspect is really tire balance/rim wobble as the prior owner left some unusual scuff marks high- near the center of the rim! Not to mention the winter Michelins M&S still on it
I have recently picked up that similar 70 braking vibration- and then the wife admitted to hi speed panic stop recently- so I will check everything and do a cleaning
At least she was very impressed with the brakes versus the maxima she brought home 2 feet shorter
Its CRITICAL the lug nuts be tightened to SNUG or 50 foot pounds in an across the hub- star pattern, then bring them up to 80 and stop
recheck, drive 50 miles or a day and recheck as things do change
Especially check before and after fun runs, and at track days- between sessions
Before the brake upgrade I drove more ~reasonably~
Now I drive it like the race car, deep into the corners and need the
track R compound (= race) A00 Yokohama tires for real fun.
They dont even grip good till their nice and hot
I sense a vibration in the steering I suspect is really tire balance/rim wobble as the prior owner left some unusual scuff marks high- near the center of the rim! Not to mention the winter Michelins M&S still on it
I have recently picked up that similar 70 braking vibration- and then the wife admitted to hi speed panic stop recently- so I will check everything and do a cleaning
At least she was very impressed with the brakes versus the maxima she brought home 2 feet shorter
Its CRITICAL the lug nuts be tightened to SNUG or 50 foot pounds in an across the hub- star pattern, then bring them up to 80 and stop
recheck, drive 50 miles or a day and recheck as things do change
Especially check before and after fun runs, and at track days- between sessions
Before the brake upgrade I drove more ~reasonably~
Now I drive it like the race car, deep into the corners and need the
track R compound (= race) A00 Yokohama tires for real fun.
They dont even grip good till their nice and hot
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