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Is it hard to replace the alternator on a 2001 Acura TL?
DAMM GUYS. My Alternator on my 2001 ACURA TL just gave out today. I was planning on Flushing the Cooling System with Distilled Water and Draining and Refilling but now that is postponed for now.
Is it hard to Replace?
Should i buy any Particular Brand of Alternator?
I will Only Buy NEW not Remanufactured.
what tools do i need?
What is the Stock Amperage?
Any Benefit to getting a Higher Amperage Alternator? Is it Safe to Use a Higher Amperage Alternator without doing any damage to the System in anyway?
Last edited by EE4Life; 08-17-2020 at 08:47 PM.
Reason: removed bold
like anything in the world; the task completely relies on your skill level.
Because I've worked on cars as a hobby for 10 years, changing out alternators on any car is very very easy to me.
if you will only buy new, then buy OEM straight from Honda.
the tools needed are common hand tools; sockets, wrenches, ratchets.
and if you're buying OEM, because you only want NEW, then who cares about amperage's.
you can do two jobs at once, ya know that right?
dont really have to postpone coolant job....you can basically do them at the same time, or one after another.
you can have the coolant draining, while changing out the alternator.
If there is no Electricity how do you start the Engine to Run The Cooling System
All you would be able to do Since you don't have running Electricity is Drain The Coolant from the Block and the Radiator. You need Electricity to Start the engine Keep it running to Cycle the Distilled Water Through the Cooling System to Flush/Clean out the System. I think you just meant Draining but not Refilling and Running the Engine to Cycle the Coolant through the Cooling System. You gotta Replace the Alternator First Before you can run the Distilled Water through the Cooling System.
Last edited by EE4Life; 08-17-2020 at 08:47 PM.
Reason: removed bold
What Brand of OEM Alternator did my 2001 Acura TL Leave the factory with?
There are some on Rockauto.com from Denso,TYC,Pure Engergy,BBB Vision,Remy,ACDELCO and WAI GLOBAL 13835N (The only Listed as 100% New) is that brand any good?
What Brand of Alternator did my 2001 Acura TL leave the Factory with?
I went to several places for the Acura OEM Alternator and they are not even new they are listed as Remanufactured what B******* is that andy they are asking close to $300.
Last edited by EE4Life; 08-17-2020 at 08:48 PM.
Reason: removed bold
Denso is a recognized OEM brand. the others are mostly chinese aftermarket.
right, so for me....an alternator would be changed in 30 mins or less. meaning by the time it's installed, I could be refilling the radiator with distilled water or coolant.
I wouldnt have to pause one job or the other, UNLESS the parts are still in transit and I couldnt do the job anyway
Last edited by justnspace; 08-06-2020 at 08:51 PM.
I've attached some screenshots to this post from the manual (which you can find on this subforum with a quick search): Replacing the alternator Alternator replacement page 2, and tensioner check 1 Tensioner check page 2
30 minutes or less BULL**** i don't care how good of a mechanic someone claims to be
30 minutes or less BULL**** did you guys have to remove your power steering resevoir as in remove the upper hose? I sure am finding out i have to but will it leak when i remove it?
again, it all depends on your skill level.
okay, give me 45 mins or less, and I'll have it pulled and installed.
no, the step by step given above is pretty clear...
remove tension from the tensioner to remove belt. once belt is off, you have clear access to removing the alternator.
which are held in by 2 bolts.
I would remove the electrical connections first, before removing the bolts..
so there's only really 4 steps..
remove tension to get belt off.
undo electrical stuff.
undo bolts.
Remove alternator.
EASY
*edit* you may need a second pair of hands to help push the tensioner when reinstalling the belt
Last edited by justnspace; 08-14-2020 at 06:17 PM.
To give you an idea where my skill level lies; I recently helped a friend swap engines in his 2001 IS300.
I got there after they pulled the stock N/A 2JZ and assisted with installing the turbo 1JZ!
Engine swap was done in a day, and then took about 2-3 full days to button most everything up.
Pretty much happened at the end of July 2020.
Okay i see But i cannot get a Wrench to grip any nut/bolt on the Alternator
Okay Man I See based on those pics that you are not just talk (Which is usually what people are online Digital Tough Guys LOL)
So i Cannot get a Wrench Box,Closed,Open socket to Get onto any of the Nut/Bolts on the Alternator....Hell i even ran to harbor freight bought a 8pc set of off set metric box wrenches.
I cannot get a Wrench to Grip any of the nut/bolts on the Alternator or even the Pully Tensioner nut/bolt. I removed the Fan moved the PS resevoir as much as i could I would like to H*** those Engineers who pack everything engine bays the way have.
No not at all i just cannot get anything to get on it
NO NOT AT ALL........................... There is just too much shit in there to get to any of the bolts/nuts i am gonna go buy a swivel socket set tomorrow and hopefully that helps like i said i would love to H*** badly those engineers who design and pack all that shit into the engine bay every brand/make does it. They want you to go to the Stealership for Repair/maintnance
Last edited by EE4Life; 08-17-2020 at 08:50 PM.
Reason: removed bold
Hey TL88... what specifically have you removed? In your earlier posts it sounds almost like you actually removed the pulleys rather than just moved the tensioner out of the way.
Also, not to discount the frustration you may be feeling, but what kind of enormous wrenches are you using that they won't fit inside the engine bay? There's plenty of space around the alternator in our engine bays - until you've had the mispleasure of dealing with the water pump or timing belt, I really don't think you can complain about the accessibility situation
If you haven't done so yet, I HIGHLY recommend finding the shop manual I mentioned earlier - there's a link on this forum somewhere to download it - and following that for any and all repairs you do for this car. I'm definitely no pro, I only really got into cars maybe 3 or 4 years ago after I totaled my '13 Kia Sorento, bought my '99TL, and realized that I somehow had to keep this thing running because I surely couldn't afford anything else. But I found this forum and the shop manual, and followed it religiously for any troubleshooting and repairs. Now a few years down the line I'm still an idiot but I'm confident in my abilities to work on the car. If you can't find the link let me know and I'll re-upload it myself for you. Even if you're no stranger to wrenching, knowing the specific order to do things and having all those torque ratings, plus troubleshooting guidelines, will be a huge addition to your skillset.
So Far i have Removed the Fan and unclipped the power connectors unbolted the PS Fluid Resevoir and moved it while still has hoses connected as much out of the way as possible, I have not removed the Belt Tensioner pulley as it's not necessary. I cannot fit any type of socket,wrench or anything down there there is literally not enough space to get any of those tools on or near any of the nut/bolts of the Alternator or Alternator bracket i am beginning to think somehow they packed all the shit engine bay too too tight at the Factory LOL AS CRAZY AND UNLIKELY AS THAT IS/SOUNDS EVEN WITH THE MULTI MILLION DOLLAR EQUIPMENT THEY USE AT THE FACTORY I KNOW IT'S WITH THE INTENT OF MAKING IT SO HARD YOU JUST GO AND PAY THE STEALERSHIP SERVICE DEPARTMENT TO DO REPAIRS MAINTNANCE ETC.
Last edited by EE4Life; 08-17-2020 at 08:51 PM.
Reason: removed bold
The Honda vehicles are actually engineered really really well! thank goodness we dont have German vehicles, because those engines are JAMMED pack into the engine bay.
if MM can do it, you can do it!
I would also add your workspace and your tools. Working outdoors a on gravel or grass driveway is not the same as a nice, shady concrete pad in a garage. Good jacks and jackstands, an assortment of hand and power tools helps speed things up.
Experience counts too. First time can be tough, second not so much. Third is a breeze.
OP: The members of this forum are pretty well spread across the skill spectrum. Some professional (in the auto business), enthusiasts (meaning we love working on cars but don't always get paid), and beginners. Once upon a time the professionals, enthusiasts, and everyone else were beginners.
I consider myself an enthusiast (I'd say mid-level). I'm an FAA A&P mechanic, Sect 609 certified, and have done most of the work myself on every car I've owned. From clutch changes to head gaskets to rear end swaps to AC overhaul. Yet despite my past, I'm still a rookie when it comes to my 2001 TL. I've learned a lot from the kind folks here. I'm sure you will too.
THAT IS WHY I AM LOOKING FOR A 1975 HONDA CIVIC NOT ALL THE ACCESSORIES AND SHIT A SMALL ENGINE BAY WHERE YOU CAN STAND IN AND REMOVE/REPLACE WHATEVER YOU NEED TO THE PERFECT WORK COMMUTER FIXER. BUT YEAH ALL MAKES DO IT GERMAN,AMERICAN,ASIAN/JAP ETC.
The Car has been Jacked up on Stands for two days now.
Been Changing my Engine Oil,Transmission Fluid,Spark Plugs Since i was atleast 14 years old on like all the vehicles i've owned up to this point in my life probably arouund 11 vehicles.
Also why is it that Rear Wheel Drive Vehicles all seem to have the Alternator Ontop Easy to get to but Rear Wheel Drive seem to be all to be lower??????
Last edited by EE4Life; 08-17-2020 at 08:51 PM.
Reason: removed bold
and I never mean to come across demeaning or a know it all.... its just how it comes across on paper/text.
although, i am guilty of having an ego, I'm learning on how to control it
at the very core, I want to help.
I certainly didn't mean it like that. We see "difficulty ratings" on lot's of tasks. They're all pretty subjective. Some of my friends think I'm a car genius just because I have a code scanner. I handed one of them a scanner and a manual, said he's the genius now. Guess what? He can diagnose CELs on his own. Now some of his friends think he's a genius.
A parting thought then I'll let you all get back to helping the OP. I've always said "Experience is a tough teacher. It give the test first, then the lesson". You can watch all the YT vids and read all the how to's on forums. They don't always match our own experience when we do it. I have smashed many thumbs, burned many fingers, ripped many sleeves, snapped/stripped many bolts, blown many fuses, etc. (all mine of course, well almost all mine). Maybe one day, I'll get it right.
To TL88: I've acquire quite a few tools because I didn't have something that fit just right. Buy something decent quality. You will definitely use it again.
Also why is it that Rear Wheel Drive Vehicles all seem to have the Alternator Ontop Easy to get to but Rear front Wheel Drive seem to be all to be lower??????
Well, my 1988 Jeep Cherokee with the 4.0L Six has the alternator at the bottom, under the AC Compressor and mech fan pulley. Have to get underneath to change it out. At least I don't have to jack it up.
I think you meant front wheel drive in the line I quoted.
I certainly didn't mean it like that. We see "difficulty ratings" on lot's of tasks. They're all pretty subjective. Some of my friends think I'm a car genius just because I have a code scanner. I handed one of them a scanner and a manual, said he's the genius now. Guess what? He can diagnose CELs on his own. Now some of his friends think he's a genius.
A parting thought then I'll let you all get back to helping the OP. I've always said "Experience is a tough teacher. It give the test first, then the lesson". You can watch all the YT vids and read all the how to's on forums. They don't always match our own experience when we do it. I have smashed many thumbs, burned many fingers, ripped many sleeves, snapped/stripped many bolts, blown many fuses, etc. (all mine of course, well almost all mine). Maybe one day, I'll get it right.
To TL88: I've acquire quite a few tools because I didn't have something that fit just right. Buy something decent quality. You will definitely use it again.
The Honda vehicles are actually engineered really really well! thank goodness we dont have German vehicles, because those engines are JAMMED pack into the engine bay.
if MM can do it, you can do it!
I bought cheap and began working on one of those upside down/backwards German-made Mercedes C-series of old and immediately junked it. That experience has made me appreciate the accessibility of these Honda built cars. The simplicity of the engine bay reminds me of the good old days when DIY maintenance accessibility was a design priority.
Fuck this car guys i am gonna get it towed to my mechanic
I Finally Gave up guys gonna have it towed to a Mechanic i got to the point of FUCK THIS CAR I WANNA TAKE A SLEDGE HAMMER TO IT I HAVE WASTED PROBABLY HALF THE DAY!!!!!!!!!
AS SAID BEFORE I WOULD LIKE TO TAKE PLIERS TO THE TEETH OF THESE PEOPLE TO TORTURE THEM TO DEATH WHO DESIGN THESE ENGINE LAYOUTS AND PACK EVERYTHING SO TIGHT I WANT THEM TO SUFFER. AS SAID BEFORE EVERY MODERN CAR GERMAN,JAP,AMERICAN THEY ALL FUCKING DO IT.
So i got the alternator off just cannot get it out so it is just loose rattling around no more wasted time i gotta wait now for my mechanic to text me back when i can tow this thing to his house
ALTERNATOR LOOSE CANNOT GET IT OUT 2001 ACURA TL
Last edited by EE4Life; 08-17-2020 at 08:53 PM.
Reason: removed bold
Is the alternator stuck in place, or just stuck under the hoses in the engine bay?
My 2nd new alternator had the sleeve in the bottom bolt not pressed in far enough, causing it to hand up on installation. Maybe it just needs to be tapped upward from the bottom with a hammer to dislodge the mounting sleeve.
Yeah when you have a lot of other important shit to do on the weekend
I HAVE SO MUCH OTHER IMPORTANT SHIT I HAVE TO DO AND THIS WAS KEEPING ME FROM ALL THAT I HATED LIFE YESTERDAY GUYS BECAUSE OF THIS FUCKING ALTERNATOR SITUATION!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yeah so it is off right now i just could not take it out I was trying so hard not to damage that >OUTER EDPM hose line whatever the fuck that is???????? I did not want to unbolt that EDPM line either not knowing what it's purpose is and not to mention a pain in the ass.
I Now need to replace that Tension Pulley now to because i accidently hit it and scratched it up with a makeshift Leverage bar (Leverage Bar being the Handle to my Floor Jack)
But my Mental illness (i guess i would call it) is telling me now that it has to be replaced i have extreme paranoia about it now guys anyone got the Part Number???? Also the Part Number for the Serpentine Belt i might as well replace that since my Mechanic is now gonna do the Work.
Actually None of the Videos i have seen actually show in Real Time the Actual Taking out of the Alternator in the Engine bay they only show the after results of it being out of the engine bay if someone knows of a video where they actually captured it on video of them removing it I AM A VISUAL LEARNER I MUST SEE IT TO BE ABLE TO DUPLICATE SOME PEOPLE JUST ARE LIKE THAT IT"S A CURSE.
Last edited by EE4Life; 08-17-2020 at 08:54 PM.
Reason: removed bold
yeah same video i already saw he does not actually show the removal
yeah i already saw that video with the orange gloves he does not show the actual removal. He only shows the end result, there probably is not a video of anybody actually doing the painstaking frustrating extremely difficult removal of the alternator they all show "AFTER THE FACT"
Anyone got the part number for the serpentime belt tensioner and the belt itself??????????????????
Last edited by EE4Life; 08-17-2020 at 08:54 PM.
Reason: removed bold
yeah i already saw that video with the orange gloves he does not show the actual removal. He only shows the end result, there probably is not a video of anybody actually doing the painstaking frustrating extremely difficult removal of the alternator they all show "AFTER THE FACT"
Anyone got the part number for the serpentime belt tensioner and the belt itself??????????????????
You have to contort the alternator around. Flip it upside and pry it up through the hoses.
What is this Actually Called I mean what i would find it as through a parts website??? What is circled and pointed to in RED What is this Exactly Known as? Serpentine Belt Tensioner pulley or what???
08-06-2020, 06:53 PM
