3.2TLc

Just about a month ago I had a starting problem when ya turned the key, all ya would get would be a single click. About a year ago, the battery and alternator had been previously replaced, so I put in a new starter and ground wires last month. Worked ok !

All was well until yesterday, the car wouldn't start again. Battery, alternator and wire connections all good with a strong cranking of the starter....but the motor just won't turn over to start running. The only thing that seems out of place is that the shifter won't move from Park,
did the over-ride to try starting in Neutral....still the same.

Also noticed that one of the door locks isn't going down, wondering if that may be part the problem or some sort of other interlock issue ???
Any tips or advice are sincerely appreciated, thanks.

Nicks2001tl

Hey 3.2tlc not sure but I hope it is something as simple as a fuse, relay or switch. It definitely sounds electric related. Also maybe a short somewhere else.

ErickUa5

Hey 3.2TLc Do a bulb check, when you turn the key to position 2 does the check engine light come on for about 3 seconds ? If not then the ECU does not have power or its shutting itself down do to a short somewhere.
The starter cranks the engine but doesn't start if I understood correctly.

fsttyms1

Is the Green Key light flashing on the cluster with the key in ignition?

3.2TLc

Hey guys, thanks for the responses !!!
For an update, at the time of no start the dash lights all worked properly except that the "Green Key" immobilizer light was flashing upon putting key to "Start" position. The brake pedal was hard and the shifter would not move out of park. Brake lights were all working. WD40'd brake switch.

So, today.....went out and turned the key to position II, then "Start" .....didn't start, took key out and flipped it, tried again and the motor surprising started !!! Some questions if anybody may help with :

* Wondering if the Immobilizer's key sensor ring is faulty ?
* Do the transponder keys go bad ?
* Could this possibly be the ignition switch itself ?
*If the immobilizer was to be replaced, do the keys require being reprogrammed ?
* Does the immobilizer also cause the shifter to be stuck in Park ?

Thanks for any suggestions on what would be the best thing to do.

ErickUa5

Try a spare key, There could be something on your keychain interfering with the immobilizer. Those are things to try before buying parts.
Doubt its the ignition switch.

3.2TLc

Yeah, didn't really think that the ignition switch was bad with the strong cranking from the starter when turning the key to it's "Start" position. Had previously tried both keys with no luck, so didn't really think that the keys were a problem either. The only things on the key ring were a house key, plastic fob, and my old faithful '95 Accord's key.

Gotta say that everything basically was checked over except the Immobilizer unit, the PGM fi main relay, range position switch, crank sensor, and shifter's neutral safety solenoid.....wow, this stuff is totally boggling when compared to my trustworthy and dependable old school low tech Honda. Love that car and can't seem to part with it, even though it's no longer pretty.

PS: Tried starting the TL after work this morning ..... fired right up !!!
I'm baffled and wife wants a new car, ha...hah.

nats007

Whoa... Just experienced this today during lunch... Car cranks motor starts and then dies... All dash lights work and I had the flashing green key for the immobilizer. After about 8 attempts I was able to hit the gas and rev the motor to get her going. NoCEL, but not sure what happened. The car was on a slight downhill incline, so I don't know if that could be an issue

3.2TLc

Hey Nats, in my situation the car's starter would crank strongly.....but the motor would never begin to actually run at all.
Just the starter cranking away to no avail.

Your motor apparently would start running and then quickly die if I understood ya correctly. "Car cranks motor ....starts and then dies"
Hitting the gas and revving the motor to get it running makes me think that ya might have a different issue.

Maybe a fuel pressure problem. IDK, the flashing immobilizer would'nt allow the motor to even start as it's designed to disable the fuel system. This is my understanding, but I could be wrong ?

TLer trash

nats 007: The 'starts, but dies as soon as you let go of the key' is also a classic symptom of a failing ignition switch. If it happens again, keep some pressure on the key as you release it from the crank position instead of just letting go of the key.

ErickUa5

Since its intermittent check the ground on the thermostat housing, transmission shops often unbolt that ground then notice they don't need to and leave it loose then corrosion takes place.
The ecu and immobilizer use this ground so its a good place to look.

3.2TLc

Yeah, really hate the "intermittent" kind of problems !!! Especially the ones that can leave ya stranded.
Thanks ErickUa5 for taking the time to assist in resolving my present issue with what appears to be within the Immobilizer system.

An excellent tip ! Great info.

ErickUa5

Your welcome, Also forgot to mention its related to the stuck in park issue since the ecu provides the ground for the shift lock solenoid.

nats007

Thanks for the feedback guys!!!! I'll definitely look into it some more. The problem is slightly different, but it caught me off guard. Car has been fine since yesterday, but it does make me think it could be a loose connection or ignition switch as the symptom.

Thanks again everyone!

3.2TLc

Hey Nats007, ya may wanna consider having the car's electrical system load tested. Our TL's tend to get rather finicky if they don't get their proper supply of juice. Check all of the grounds also. The main ground from the battery to the tranny often will go bad.

3.2TLc

So, with my 2000 TL's somewhat erratic starting issues at 180k......which apparently appear to be directed towards the ignition's Immobilizer System, I have some questions. If I were to replace the immobilizer's receiver unit on the ignition switch....is there any reprogramming necessary afterwards for the ECU or transponder keys ? Is there any aligning or does the new unit just attach and hopefully work with everything else as is ?

"Plug 'n run" ???

Has anybody had any similar issues dealing with the Immobilizer ???
If so, what did it take to get everything working dependably ? Thanks for any help.