What is the difference between the two fuel pressure regulators listed from Acura? It list two different part numbers for the same part...

16740-P8A-M01
&
16740-PGK-A01

 

First one is for the 99TL only
Second is for 00-03 TL

 

Should I replace it with OEM, or is aftermarket okay?

 

To clarify...
OEM = Honda
"aftermarket" = from local parts store

 

thats an odd failure to hear about--
what led you to this diagnosis?
any known cause of failure yet?

 

I have had a difficult time starting my 2000 tl-p for a couple years now. It is only (and I mean only) when the car is hot. Whether this is a long drive or a medium drive in summer weather. Car starts (barely) then sputters until I apply gas under load, then it is fine. CEL comes on as well as TCS light usually reads left bank is running lean and all cylinders are misfiring. I have used seafoam, changed plugs, rotated coil packs, cleaned throttle body; intake (lower and upper) as well as EGR port. Zero difference after all procedures. So, one of my many trips to the Honda dealer got me to finally ask one of the techs for advice. He said most likely fuel pressure regulator creating a vapor lock of sorts under hot conditions. Also to make an appointment to have him look it over...

 

Jason, a lot of us would appreciate if you could keep us updated with your diagnosis from the dealer and what possible fix you may proceed with. This seems to be a common problem here.

 

Agreed. I have the same issue. While I get no lights or codes -when the car is warm/hot it does not like to start. It is not every time and if I hold the throttle down it will catch. A couple of blips and it settles down to a fair idle. If it starts and I do not blip the throttle it will idle with a chug at about 3-400rpm until i clear it out.
I thought it may be the fuel filter at the fuel pump pick up but the fuel pressure is ok.
Only at start up. odd.

 

Okay, I have done further research on this and have found that the Main Relay (PGM-FI) under the dash needs repair/replace. I will try this tonight and possible post pictures if I see a similar problem and solution. Keep everyone posted for sure!

 

Jason,

The main relay doesn't need any replacing unless the actual relay on the circuit board is defective (which would make your car stall). The problem with these circuit boards is that they are known to have cold solder connections from the factory. Over time, the connections crack, loosen up, and make intermittent contact and cause erratic behavior....like no-start or stalling conditions. Many flat screens TV's also have this problem on their main boards.
You can re-solder all the connections on the board.....but if you like, go ahead and replace it.


Here is an article on this:
http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelay.html

Also check out the "main relay" youtube video from EricTheCarGuy.

 

I followed the link and soldered it myself, very easy and so far the problem is fixed.

 

another thread suggest the egr system in the intake manifold may be clogged
when car is hard to start warm/hot and dies unless light throttle applied

another thing to do for those with odd running prob--techs wont suspect it unless they are a real acura guru
its needed every 75kmiles on the 00 and later,,sooner on a 99

 

Re-doing the connections with solder gun did work, its starts every time. No matter how long I've been driving, how hot it is. For sure this fixed the problem. Thanks everyone

 

Thank you for updating us, Jason. This is good news. Most have been replacing their main relays which is not necessary. These cold solder connections are a common occurrence in cars. Even ECU's are known to be affected by this problem. It's quite simple to resolder all the joints before attempting to replace the part.