Hey everyone, I've finally got the full lip kit together.
The kit took me three years to put together and i ended
up paying 330 for the front, 250 for the sides, and 80 for the rear,
which are all brand new unused (the rear is the Ebay fiberglass rear lip btw).
The only reason i went with the rear fiberglass is because
i was not going to pay 450 for the OEM one, which i found in WDP.

Now i plan to paint the kit myself with the 12 oz aerosol
and i am looking to order the paint supplies from www.automotivetouchup.com,
but my question is how many cans do i need of the primer, base coat, and clear coat?

I've done a lot of research and seen people on Acurazine getting their lip kit painted for around 300
and the cheapest i could find here in Tacoma WA is an estimate of 400,
which was at Maaco and they were giving me a lot of crap saying i should paint the whole car with the kit.
since i do not want them to paint the whole car i rather not let them paint anything
because they might make the kit darker or something and this would lead me to painting the whole car.......
and i dont want to say to myself "lesson learned"


So please help me out and let me know

Thanks Acuraziners

 

i painted my own full lip kit. mine is a cheap ebay fiberglass kit though, here's a link to the thread i made on painting it
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-116/ebay-replica-02-03-oem-lip-kit-pics-862765/

i used the duplicolor paint match cans you can get at autozone/advanceautoparts/whatever.

i did 2 layers primer with sanding between--i should've did maybe one more
i did 4 layers of naples gold metallic paint--i should've took more time drying between coats
i did 3 layers of clearcoat--make sure to wetsand and buff after clear is done drying overnight to give it the best, i didn't so mine looks a bit ruff

here is a link to my most recent pics that are decent quality. just scroll to the bottom of this album. my lip kit has lasted pretty well through a new england winter so hope this helps.
http://imgur.com/a/H9BVY

 

Thanks for the quick respond but I've seen your post while back and i think it looks great and came out perfect. I also notice you just got the 531's? how much was it? Ive been debating if i should get the 521's or not.

Also how many layers you think i can put out with one can? i mean i dont want to buy to much or too little and each base coat can is like 20 bucks

 

i just remember spending $68 on primer, paint, and clear. duplicolor paint match can i got was 8oz, i was able to do one layer each piece and i was spraying liberally.

i bought the 531s from NLMOTORING.com for under $700 shipped to me, CA >> MA. i like the 521s but the offset and width choices i was finding wasn't going to cut it without me rolling and pulling a lot...i've since got rid of the 531s though lol

 

Dang 68 bucks and it still looks perfect lol, so i should consider like 2 cans of prime, 3 base, and 2 clear do you think?

that was the website i looked at for the 521's and its pretty cheap lol do you think the 18x10 was be alot of work for the rears? the front im going to put 18x8 (still unsure about staggered setup). what wheels do you got now?

 

I have 18x9 BBS LM reps now.

with 18x10 521s you will have to fender roll + pull + stretch tires and I'm sure u will need camber kit too. I've read people saying 9.5"+ is major work for our 2G. Plus the 521s have the 25 offset so gotta take that into consideration.

As for paint that's pretty much same amount I used. But whatever effort u put in will make the difference. Def take time or pay someone lol

 

Got any pics of the setup? Ill be okay with rolling and camber but man i dont want to even bother with pulling haha. i dont know man i guess i gotta do more thinking

I just want to paint it myself i dont know why but i hate having someone else do soemthing for me lol but if you dont mind do you have any tips on the sanding grit? like what i should use to sand the OEM paint on the kit right now and how far down should i sand it. Also when i prime what grit should i use and when i have clear coat what grit should i use like 2000 or soemthing?

lol sorry for the questions man but i tend to second guess myself and would like a forsure answer from others.

 

I was running an 18x10 with a 235 and it cleared pretty well. I was rolled but did not have camber kits to adjust. h tech springs so the drop wasn't aggressive either

 

All good asking questions is what this place is for. Well to sand the paint off right now i would do rough grit like 80. Then I would do like 150 before primer goes on. Then after primer i would do something like 150-200. Then after u have painted and glossed. I would do 200+ and buff. I'm sure someone here has better paint skills and they can offer better advice.

Here's link to my current wheel setup
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-tires-wheels-suspension-100/bbs-lm-reps-887729/

 

Nice i guess 18x10 will fit. I'd def like to see what it looks like. H tech drop only an inch in the rear right?

 

Nicee, thats good to know man thanks. do you have any up close pics of the setup becuase for some reason i can not view anybodys album..

 

Thanks for the advice man haha you gave me enough information to start this project off. Trying to get this done before summer rolls by and next i gotta make a descion on coilovers becuase right now im on tein springs. i need some coilvers with good dampers man if i plan on running those wheels haha.

I love your new set up though they look great and those reps look exact man. what are they btw if you dont mind me asking?

 

thanks, these are just BBS LM reps i found online. nothing special. 18" x 9" +35

 

Hey ProjectAcuraTL, assuming that your lip kit is in good condition and not showing any chips, scratches or cracks.....then all ya need to do is clean everything up and degloss the existing paint using either a medium 3M scratch pad or 320 wet sandpaper. No need to remove the old finish !

Once everything is scuffed up to give the new paint a better bite to adhere, wipe everything down with a solvent and let dry. Spray a quality surfacer/primer of the same brand as the top color coat that you're using. Just lightly sand the primer after dry with maybe like a fine 3M pad or 400 wet paper. Wipe down again, check for blemishes and then use a tack cloth to remove any residual particles on the surface.

Arrange the lip kit parts on an elevated surface so you can get a nice even spray pattern when applying the color coat....don't put too much on at a time, smooth level strokes. Be careful of the overlapping and any drips. A couple of lighter coats will cover much better than trying to spray it all at once. Let the paint set up for a couple of days, and then with just a very light sanding using, like 5-600 paper to level up the overspray, you'll be ready to apply the final clear coat to the parts. The only thing that you may want to consider, especially for the front lip...... would be a flex additive. You can have this custom mixed in an aerosal can at most specialty automotive paint supply stores. Figure on about $100 for supplies and a weekend.

 

Thanks for the advice and information, but as for the lip kit it is brand out out of the box from Acura besides the rear lip because its the fiber glass one.

After i hit it with the clear coat should i let that settle for a couple of days and sand it down with a 2000? and buff it?

Ive done some research and i am confuse with what color primer to use i see other paint job treads and forums and people are using white primer with blue and red paint jobs. now i want to make sure what color primer i should use since my car is SSM?

Thanks

 

i would imagine that white primer would be fine for silver

 

Yeah, even a basic lighter gray primer would work, IMO. Ya gotta realize that being so low on the car, it's not really overly critical. Ya could always test one section of the kit.......maybe the rear to see how the color matches. The important thing is to take your time getting a nice even flowing color coat for the best finished result. A couple of light coats are better than overloading !

 

I'm currently running 19x8 in the front and 19x9.5 in the rear. fenders are rolled but not pulled too much. I still turn on a dime and have a decent size drop with my Tein SS. I had to stretch the rear tires to avoid rubbing though. Its crazy how much one thing can make such a big difference.

 

Hey GroceryGetter206, sorta irrelevant to this thread which is based on the lip kit ???
But, considering the 4:15am time of posting....it's somewhat understandable !!!!...ha, hah.

 

he might've been referring to an earlier post about ProjectAcuraTL getting wheels

 

If the kit is unpainted, you have some prep work to do. ALL plastic parts have a solvent used to separate them from the mold (something like wd40). That solvent is still in the plastic and can make for a bitch of a time to get paint to adhere properly. There are many products and methods to get it to adhere. There are simple scrubs that can be used with Gray scotch bright pads to clean and scuff at the same time, then wipe down with a simple Isopropyl Alcohol. Then you will want to spray a few coats of an adhesion promoter on before you spray your primer. As for primer dont worry about colors. Light colors you can use your typical Gray, dark colors typically use the gray and some times black.

If the kit is already painted, all you will have to do is scuff it really good with a Gray scotch bright pad or sand it with 400-600 wet. You arent trying to remove the paint, all you are doing is deglossing it so that the new paint can stick. Once scuffed/sanded simply spray your color. You dont need primer as the paint you are painting over is the primer in this case.

 

Thank for the input man, but if you can some pictures would be nice and are you from seattle?

 

Thank fsttyms1 for the advice, but yeah the kit has oem paint on it from Acura. The front lip is EDP the sidesskirt are Anthracite Metallic and the rear is fiber glass which i am going to prime. so your saying that with the oem painted front and sides i should sand it down to remove the orginal clear coat that is on it right now and just paint it with the new base coat and clear coat only?

 

what color is your car?

 

Yes. There is NO need or reason to prime the oem pieces. All you have to do is scuff/sand them to remove the gloss, NOT remove the clear. when done sanding/scuffing there should be no gloss. Just be careful around the edges so that you dont sand through the paint.

 

My car is satin silver metallic (ssm)

 

Okay I understand now, so use a grey scuff pad (fine) or 400-600 and scuff/sand down the OEM paint and then respray with the base and clear coat.

Would this method make the paint stick just as well as a prime method?

Now at this point when I spray the new coats am I still giving it 3 - 4 layers of base and 2-3 of clear ?

 

There is NO need for primer. Forget you ever heard of it. The surface already has primer. Primer serves a surface that helps paint have something to bite into. (considering you are doing this with auto parts store paint it will stick better, not to mention if you get too many layers paint tends not to be as durable)the chemical reaction of the paint hitting the scuffed surface will allow the paint to bite into the already painted surface.

Yes. Nothing has changed as far as how you apply your color. Usually 2-3 layers of paint are all that is needed. If you plan on wet sanding and polishing the clear you will probably want to do and i would recommend at least 4 layers. Especially coming from a rattle can.

 

Be forewarned that silver (especially those with metallic's) can be harder to get to match than red.

 

I'm ordering all the paint and supplies from www.automotivetouchup.com. I had a friend that order paint from them to paint his lip and side skirts on a yellow ap1 and it came put perfect.

As for painting sand or scuff and give it 2-3 layers base and then 3-4 clear and after couple of days of drying sand it with 2000 grit and buff polish lol okay man I got i t now. Well I can't wait to start this off now and I'm going to order the supplies tonight


Thanks alot for all the advice and help everyone

 

Im on 18 9.5s +30 all around and only rolled fenders. No pulling. Im pretty low as well. In the back i cut quite a bit of pieces on the inner fender but it was all easy. Definitely will have to play around with it if u plan on going low. I actually wish i had gone with a lower offset because my wheel used to hit the coilover on the inner rim but ive worked with it alot and finally got it to work. I have the ingalls camber kit as well. Just some food for thought

 

yeah man i recently seen your whip nice set up btw love the wheels. i was planning to get XXR 521 18x10 all around or the stagger fitment 18x8.5 in front and 18x10 in the rear with 25 offset, but as for rolling id be okay with that its just pulling is the scary factor.

i also was looking at the linea corse lemans but i did not like what they had to offer on wheeldude.com (cant tell if they have a good lip size). Both you and peewizzle got nice lip size on your guys wheels and that is what im trying to get.

if you dont mind where did you order them from and they are varrstoen ES1? and i wonder what peewizzle wheels are. also what tire size should i consider and did you stretch or no?

 

i have BBS LM replica wheels. 18x9 +35 and 2.75" lip. i have 225/40 tires and they stretch slightly. i would rather stretch a 215/40 so i could drop more in the rear.

i believe weezy_nation has varrstoen es1 but don't quote me on that

 

I think it was an inch but I'm not sure anymore. Here is a pic...

 

lol man to much strectch would be asking for it on a daily dont you think?? slight stretch would be good though.

Do you have the website you order them from or a trust worthy site for the varrastoen?

 

Thanks for the pic, but yeah its not to bad of a poke lol i guess this calls for camber kits then, which equals more money. i have the tein s tech installed right now

 

The offset was not aggressive at all which almost caused rubbing on the shock. And yes those tires wore out in about 10k

 

here's my 18x9 +35 if it'll help