FAQ: 06-07 AV6 Transmission 'Swap'
#681
02 CL AV6 Swap
I just completed this swap via precise directions found in these forums February 2017. Pretty much everything was exactly as detailed with the exception of the "cooler" on top of the trans. I only swapped the top part as the hoses didn't align. My fear now is in my possible misreading/understanding may be I should have changed more parts under it? It's currently November 2018 and the car has ran basically perfect until a month ago, started clunky shifting developing into trans slipping shortly failing after slippage. Everything worked great actually quite perfect and performing better beyond expactations to this point. I write this for the next guy that's gonna tackle it himself. Where did I go wrong with the swap a 114k mi 2006 av6 only to have it fail. Maybe just a rough salvage trans or did I misinterpret something and muck something up with the swap. Haven't seen much on longevity in reference so wondering where I fowled fellas....
#682
02 CL AV6 Swap
Pardon my manners also but would like to thank everyone who's posted the swap details and needs that made it possible for me to make it happen in my driveway! The car gave me almost a year of excitement and fun while I'm only into it for a little over 1,200 car and trans/parts! You guys are awesome!!!
#683
I recently performed an AV^ swap back 09/2018. I had the trouble with the torque conver not being the correct size. I got a rebuilt converter from Transtar ( HO79 ) and installed it. Car worked perfectly to start but after a few days it started giving me the P0740/VCS/! lights. The torque converter that came with the trans was damaged internally due to an accident. So I assumed that the transmission must have been damaged as well. I drove the car for the last 5 months with the cel on and after driving about 25-30 miles the vcs/! light would come on. The car also was slow to got into gear when cold, but after about 3 seconds or a rap on the throttle it acted normally even if I shut if off again. If I let it sit for a few hours then slow engagement would return. I was coming up on my 6 month warranty and decided I had better get it swapped out. So now i have swapped out the transmission with another used transmission and the same lights and code are back. This time the lights come on much quicker than before. I also notice now that when the t/c locks up the rpm is much more stable than the other transmission ( hadn't noticed that ). I did not use the donor torque converter as I had a relatively fresh one. I am now wondering if the converter could be the issue? Any help/insight/diretion with this would be greatly appreciated.
Mike
Mike
#684
P0740-Problem in the lockup control
The service manual does a good job of helping with troubleshooting this:
The service manual does a good job of helping with troubleshooting this:
- Check the pressure which that sensor is monitoring
- pressure good-replace the sensor
- pressure bad-some work to other parts of the lock up control
#685
Hello, I am back. I replaced my 2003 tl with a 2007 AV6 (documented in pgs appox 13 of this forum). Worked great for 2 years until daughter just wrecked car. Bought another TL with the transmission issue (for practically nothing) and will be doing this transmission swap again. Getting more difficult to find the 2006-2007 AV6 from Accord. LKQ still has some but want $1,000 for it.
I have found some 2006-2007 Odyssey transmission for much less. I have re-read the forum but cannot find explicit answer of whether the Odyssey will work.
Skirmish, or others, will the Odyssey work or just pay up for the Accord?
I have found some 2006-2007 Odyssey transmission for much less. I have re-read the forum but cannot find explicit answer of whether the Odyssey will work.
Skirmish, or others, will the Odyssey work or just pay up for the Accord?
#686
Hello, I am back. I replaced my 2003 tl with a 2007 AV6 (documented in pgs appox 13 of this forum). Worked great for 2 years until daughter just wrecked car. Bought another TL with the transmission issue (for practically nothing) and will be doing this transmission swap again. Getting more difficult to find the 2006-2007 AV6 from Accord. LKQ still has some but want $1,000 for it.
I have found some 2006-2007 Odyssey transmission for much less. I have re-read the forum but cannot find explicit answer of whether the Odyssey will work.
Skirmish, or others, will the Odyssey work or just pay up for the Accord?
I have found some 2006-2007 Odyssey transmission for much less. I have re-read the forum but cannot find explicit answer of whether the Odyssey will work.
Skirmish, or others, will the Odyssey work or just pay up for the Accord?
#688
Hey they007. Sorry for the late reply... Just wanted to notify you that I'm experiencing word-for-word the exact same symptoms that you are. I've managed to put another 10k or so on my trans in the meantime despite the lingering issues. The one drawback I've noticed is that my new trans gets a little lost looking for TC lockup/"5th gear" under WOT. But as long as I accelerate up to highway speed at ~75% throttle or lower everything seems to operate smoothly.
I also did a 3qt drain and fill very recently. Seems like I probably have a slow trans leak somewhere around the TC and bell housing, but besides that the fluid I drained was pretty clean and the drain magnet didn't seem overly gunked. I too am hesitant to drop a bunch of money on solenoids or harnesses without some certainty that it will resolve my problems.
TO ALL FUTURE AV6 SWAPPERS: Please take a measurement of your flexplate/torque converter diameter during your installation and post it in this thread (measure from center of bolt hole to opposite center of bolt hole). It could be invaluable info to those of us like they007 and myself to know if others are using the 10.75" flexplate/TC (e.g. Dacco HO18) as opposed to our 11.25" flexplate/TC (e.g. Dacco HO21). Also, a post-installation update describing whether or not you have experienced the same P0740 CEL and TCS / "!" light-up would be instructive as well. Thank you to anyone in advance who can help us out.
If it appears that others use a 10.75" flexplate/TC and do not experience the same problems, I'm inclined to crack mine open again and swap in a 10.75" setup before the end of this year.
I also did a 3qt drain and fill very recently. Seems like I probably have a slow trans leak somewhere around the TC and bell housing, but besides that the fluid I drained was pretty clean and the drain magnet didn't seem overly gunked. I too am hesitant to drop a bunch of money on solenoids or harnesses without some certainty that it will resolve my problems.
TO ALL FUTURE AV6 SWAPPERS: Please take a measurement of your flexplate/torque converter diameter during your installation and post it in this thread (measure from center of bolt hole to opposite center of bolt hole). It could be invaluable info to those of us like they007 and myself to know if others are using the 10.75" flexplate/TC (e.g. Dacco HO18) as opposed to our 11.25" flexplate/TC (e.g. Dacco HO21). Also, a post-installation update describing whether or not you have experienced the same P0740 CEL and TCS / "!" light-up would be instructive as well. Thank you to anyone in advance who can help us out.
If it appears that others use a 10.75" flexplate/TC and do not experience the same problems, I'm inclined to crack mine open again and swap in a 10.75" setup before the end of this year.
j know this is a thread for the 2g TL , but I’m doing this swap in a 3g TL. After pulling the trans I took the tc off of it I noticed what looks like a shim on the tc hub/shaft. I don’t have a micrometer but when I got a stiff piece of card stock it is obvious that the shim make the distance from there to the end of the hub is a the shims difference different. Has anyone seen this? My car is a 06 TL and the BAYA I pulled from a 07 Accord. As this is my only car, a timely response would be great. Thank you in advance.
#690
Swap complete...
Thanks to all the great info here and the .pdf of swap info kindly created for those of us doing it a few years later than some, I just completed my AV6 swap into my 2003. Donor trans from an '06 AV6 Coupe with 90K miles.
No major issues, however getting the CV axles out of the trans can prove difficult particularly on the passenger side. Thankful for wobble extensions and air ratchets! I changed the engine rear main seal, both axle seals, and the torque converter seal while I was in there. Did the whole da%n job only to try and mount the torque converter to flex plate after tranny was in and all suspension was installed. WRONG effin' torque converter. I apparently ignored all the notes on here and ordered a converter from a BAYA which fits fine, but the bolt holes are about 1.5mm too far inset for the flex plate to mount. Soooo, I did the tranny job a second time. Total time involved (without the mixup) was about 9 hours, I could do another one right now in about 7 I would think.
Car drives like a dream, found out my original TL range position switch was toast on the tranny... hence my intermittent no-crank condition. Car did NOT know it was in park or neutral, so I replaced it with a new OE switch. Now I have full 5-gear operation, sport shift works great, and no more MIL light for violent shifting/shuddering issues. Thanks to all who have contributed, if you want to see the tranny removal in a much faster 30-second clip, click the link below for a time lapse.
Time Lapse TL Trans Removal
No major issues, however getting the CV axles out of the trans can prove difficult particularly on the passenger side. Thankful for wobble extensions and air ratchets! I changed the engine rear main seal, both axle seals, and the torque converter seal while I was in there. Did the whole da%n job only to try and mount the torque converter to flex plate after tranny was in and all suspension was installed. WRONG effin' torque converter. I apparently ignored all the notes on here and ordered a converter from a BAYA which fits fine, but the bolt holes are about 1.5mm too far inset for the flex plate to mount. Soooo, I did the tranny job a second time. Total time involved (without the mixup) was about 9 hours, I could do another one right now in about 7 I would think.
Car drives like a dream, found out my original TL range position switch was toast on the tranny... hence my intermittent no-crank condition. Car did NOT know it was in park or neutral, so I replaced it with a new OE switch. Now I have full 5-gear operation, sport shift works great, and no more MIL light for violent shifting/shuddering issues. Thanks to all who have contributed, if you want to see the tranny removal in a much faster 30-second clip, click the link below for a time lapse.
Time Lapse TL Trans Removal
#691
I almost ended up doing the same. Luckily, I thought of matching up the flexplate to the torque converter when both were out of the car (when I was changing the rear main seal).
I still had an issue after bolting up the first hole on the flex plate, but it turned out that I was bolting up one of the wrong holes on the plate. I rotated the crank almost once more, took off the original bolt and started over...this time I started bolting the two together on a hole that is accompanied by some additional holes immediately adjacent (I believe for timing or balancing).
I still had an issue after bolting up the first hole on the flex plate, but it turned out that I was bolting up one of the wrong holes on the plate. I rotated the crank almost once more, took off the original bolt and started over...this time I started bolting the two together on a hole that is accompanied by some additional holes immediately adjacent (I believe for timing or balancing).
#692
I almost ended up doing the same. Luckily, I thought of matching up the flexplate to the torque converter when both were out of the car (when I was changing the rear main seal).
I still had an issue after bolting up the first hole on the flex plate, but it turned out that I was bolting up one of the wrong holes on the plate. I rotated the crank almost once more, took off the original bolt and started over...this time I started bolting the two together on a hole that is accompanied by some additional holes immediately adjacent (I believe for timing or balancing).
I still had an issue after bolting up the first hole on the flex plate, but it turned out that I was bolting up one of the wrong holes on the plate. I rotated the crank almost once more, took off the original bolt and started over...this time I started bolting the two together on a hole that is accompanied by some additional holes immediately adjacent (I believe for timing or balancing).
I did the AV6 swap into my 06 TL. I don’t know if the factory trans was that bad from the start(I’ve only had the car for about 46k of the 190k), but the difference is like night and day. The car would do 130 before, but that last 15mph took forever. Now at 130 it is still pulling hard. As I was pulling the trans I discover the drive plate was broken(I used the one from the Accord I was wise enough to grab out of the donor car) which explains why it sounded like the trans was locked up or in a bind. I swapped the trans as it was something I planned to do and the code I pulled from the trans said it was toast, but I can’t help but wonder if it is still good. As a stop or emergency backup.
#693
Is the BAYA in a V6 2003 Accord coupe the same as the V6 2006-07 Accord BAYA?
[QUOTE=whitetiger5;16384718]Part of a repair sleeve?
is it solid? perhaps it is the reinforcement in the TC mainshaft seal? what the condition of that seal?[/QUOTE
So here’s my question. What is the difference in a BAYA from 2003 Accord V6 coupe and the BAYA out of the 2006-7 V6 Accords? I’d love to know. If any body knows or can point me in the right direction to find this info I’d appreciate it.
is it solid? perhaps it is the reinforcement in the TC mainshaft seal? what the condition of that seal?[/QUOTE
So here’s my question. What is the difference in a BAYA from 2003 Accord V6 coupe and the BAYA out of the 2006-7 V6 Accords? I’d love to know. If any body knows or can point me in the right direction to find this info I’d appreciate it.
#694
[QUOTE=TacoTom1967;16408355]
The sleeve is from a shift/lube system improvement kit. The instructions say its purpose is to keep a case bearing from walking into the seal.
Part of a repair sleeve?
is it solid? perhaps it is the reinforcement in the TC mainshaft seal? what the condition of that seal?[/QUOTE
So here’s my question. What is the difference in a BAYA from 2003 Accord V6 coupe and the BAYA out of the 2006-7 V6 Accords? I’d love to know. If any body knows or can point me in the right direction to find this info I’d appreciate it.
is it solid? perhaps it is the reinforcement in the TC mainshaft seal? what the condition of that seal?[/QUOTE
So here’s my question. What is the difference in a BAYA from 2003 Accord V6 coupe and the BAYA out of the 2006-7 V6 Accords? I’d love to know. If any body knows or can point me in the right direction to find this info I’d appreciate it.
#695
I am kind of new into this I want to know is there a specific av6 transmission I should stay away from from what to what year that I can take it from and is there anything in the transmission that I need to change that it will not work in the TL.
#698
#699
I would normally start a new thread, but I don't yet meet the requirements. I think this is only my 2nd post. Been lurking here without registering for years.
So I just bought an AV6 from a 2006 Acord 3.0 V6 from pull-a-part. I couldn't beat the price...$120. That's what they charge for all of their V6 front-wheel drive trannys. There is a caveat though...I have no idea how many miles are on the Accord transmission.
I haven't pulled the TC yet to inspect the oil, but judging by the car which appeared to have been beaten to hell, I'd guess the fluid is dark. I suppose I should replace the solenoids and pressure switches and I certainly am going to use a NEW torque converter. I'm wondering if anybody thinks I should open the case and check for burnt clutch sludge before swapping it in? I've never rebuilt a tranny before but I wouldn't hesitate to crack the cover open and check.
I don't know about the robustness of the AV6 so I don't know if a fluid and filter change would be sufficient after replacement of parts mentioned previously. I'm wondering what popular opinion thinks is prudent. Please advise!
So I just bought an AV6 from a 2006 Acord 3.0 V6 from pull-a-part. I couldn't beat the price...$120. That's what they charge for all of their V6 front-wheel drive trannys. There is a caveat though...I have no idea how many miles are on the Accord transmission.
I haven't pulled the TC yet to inspect the oil, but judging by the car which appeared to have been beaten to hell, I'd guess the fluid is dark. I suppose I should replace the solenoids and pressure switches and I certainly am going to use a NEW torque converter. I'm wondering if anybody thinks I should open the case and check for burnt clutch sludge before swapping it in? I've never rebuilt a tranny before but I wouldn't hesitate to crack the cover open and check.
I don't know about the robustness of the AV6 so I don't know if a fluid and filter change would be sufficient after replacement of parts mentioned previously. I'm wondering what popular opinion thinks is prudent. Please advise!
#700
Do everything you can with exception of taking it apart or flushing it. I've seen some clean / replace the shift and pressure switches for peace of mind, but others have seen many miles from AV6's having 100K+ miles with a simple 3 x 3 fluid / filter change.
#701
^^ I agree. Tearing one of these apart is an invitation for disaster. Get new fluid/filter in and see how it operates. I wouldn't even bother with solenoids, they are easy enough to change once it's installed.
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whitetiger5 (11-01-2019)
#702
Too late...Already took the cover off. The fluid looked so black after I drained it that I decided to pull off the front cover to look for built-up crud. I put a couple of drops of the fluid from the drain pan on the white paper towel to show the true color. You can't even see the fluid in the black plastic pan because its so dark! Surprisingly, the interior (at least under the cover) looked fairly clean. Burnt black fluid pooling in the corners but no piles of black, cruddy friction material. The external filter didn't look horrible, but was doing it's job. I would guess by the condition of the car that this tranny was removed from that it had closer to 200K miles on it rather than 100K.
Oh well, it's easy enough to put the cover back on and button it up again. Certainly going to put in a new or remanufactured TC. Going to change the TC seal as well as the rear crank seal. Anything else I should look for before installation? I just pressure washed it today and removed most of the grime. It had a leaky axle seal and I also think the rear crank seal was leaking.
Oh well, it's easy enough to put the cover back on and button it up again. Certainly going to put in a new or remanufactured TC. Going to change the TC seal as well as the rear crank seal. Anything else I should look for before installation? I just pressure washed it today and removed most of the grime. It had a leaky axle seal and I also think the rear crank seal was leaking.
#703
As these things age I would recommend one other seal in addition to the rear main crank seal. Check out my post here: https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...6-swap-983133/
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whitetiger5 (11-01-2019)
#704
Thanks Iggy...I probably would have pulled the place to replace the crank seal and would have noticed the O-ring, but now I know it's there and know it needs to be done. I'm also replacing the oil pan due to stripped out and ill-repaired drain plug threads. Anything else that I need to be aware of while I have the pan off?
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whitetiger5 (11-14-2019)
#708
I have no idea where I'm supposed to ask this but I have a 02 acura tl type s with a blown tranny I just need to know what I can put in it or of there is another permanent fix besides the 06-07 accord because I've that 3rd gen tl can work but I was also told that an 08 tl wont work, but isnt that a 3rd gen trans ? Just so very confused again sorry if this isnt the right place for this I just joined today
#709
I have no idea where I'm supposed to ask this but I have a 02 acura tl type s with a blown tranny I just need to know what I can put in it or of there is another permanent fix besides the 06-07 accord because I've that 3rd gen tl can work but I was also told that an 08 tl wont work, but isnt that a 3rd gen trans ? Just so very confused again sorry if this isnt the right place for this I just joined today
#710
I have no idea where I'm supposed to ask this but I have a 02 acura tl type s with a blown tranny I just need to know what I can put in it or of there is another permanent fix besides the 06-07 accord because I've that 3rd gen tl can work but I was also told that an 08 tl wont work, but isnt that a 3rd gen trans ? Just so very confused again sorry if this isnt the right place for this I just joined today
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whitetiger5 (12-12-2019)
#711
As already mentioned, the 2006-2007 Accord V6 transmission is your best option. Regarding the 3G TL transmissions, the 2004-2006 transmissions will fit, but they aren't considered any better than your transmissions, the 2007-2008 transmissions have a different mounting pattern between the engine and transmission, so they will definitely not fit.
#715
I have anecdotally heard early 2006 model year BAYA torque converters were slightly different than the rest of the BAYA torque converters.
#716
#717
Most replace their rear main seal while replacing the transmission; this requires taking the flexplate off: while it’s out is a good time to line it up with the AV6 torque converter and make sure the two match.
#718
#719
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horseshoez (12-22-2019)
#720
03 TL to AV6 Swap Help Required
Hello everyone-
Been a lurker of this forum since two years ago when I first bought my TL.
While I understand that a lot of people have successfully completed this swap however unfortunately I went to three mechanics in my area who downright laughed at my suggestion of doing this swap. They stated that all transmissions are different and 06/07 transmissions would have more solenoids, therefore this swap is not possible...any idea why they would say something like this when it has been done before?
Lastly, since so many people have done this, please tell me if anyone got it done from the DMV area? (I don't have the tools or know how to do it, I could learn but it would take a longer time)
Thank you,
-T
Been a lurker of this forum since two years ago when I first bought my TL.
While I understand that a lot of people have successfully completed this swap however unfortunately I went to three mechanics in my area who downright laughed at my suggestion of doing this swap. They stated that all transmissions are different and 06/07 transmissions would have more solenoids, therefore this swap is not possible...any idea why they would say something like this when it has been done before?
Lastly, since so many people have done this, please tell me if anyone got it done from the DMV area? (I don't have the tools or know how to do it, I could learn but it would take a longer time)
Thank you,
-T