Thanks, but im still not sure if im going to do the work on this block or the type-s block. Mine is in perfect shape so if i decide to use my TL-P block there isnt any thing wrong with it.

 

well, if you end up using the TL-P block, i'll be glad to store your S block in a safe place

 

^ no no.. S block is gonna be race engine.

 

 

knife edged?

 

J series Hatch?

 

so what exactly are they going to do to your engine? Please no guessing games, worn out.

 

3.5 knife edged- lightened, shotpined rods, RL pistons (possibly the oversized ones) port and polished every thing, port matched every thing, and possibly different valves. Im also looking into having the deck shortened slightly (if i do i will probably have the valve relief slightly enlarged)

 

N/A FTW!! hope everything goes well bro!!

 

 

DAMN, all bolted up to the 6 speed or are you going another route with the tranny? If 6 speed will you modify that in any way? 300+ WHP NA would be insane. Good luck.

 

Im not touching the trans

 

Ok ive been waiting to post this. A few members know. So some bad news. Ill start out by saying i reeeeeaaaaaalllllllyyyyyy hate FEDEX. They tossed the box around with my crank in it like it was a box of bouncy balls. The crank was missing a chunk out of it and the counter weights were damaged. This crank looked like nothing i have ever seen. They are disputing the damage so it should be interesting. The package was boxed up good enough that you could have put a egg in it and dropped it of a sky scraper and it wouldnt have broke.

Now im stuck in the position if im going to have another one machined or just put a stock 3.5 in.

(i need to rebuild the motor)

 

Uhm, apparently not.... sorry to hear that, take pictures and document your claim well & don't let 'em get away with it.

 

^Dam that sucks. you should bump up the claim to twice of what you paid just for your trouble

 

Damn it looks like you were doing a stroker? That sucks, can't use it now.... just go 3.5!!!

 

...ask them if they know what a crank is and suppose to look like.

I bet they have no clue...

 

i always go usps when shipping. never ever had a problem with them

 

Sidenote I am thinking about doing a J series swap in a 1993 Del Sol Si all stock 3.2 in Del Sol/Hatch is a 12 second in 1/4

 

^ do it... A Del Sol? made for short people. very light but very uncomfortable if you're tall.

still do it though,

 

LOL I am 5'10 and 200 pound I fit pretty good. Just remove the top if you tall that why they made it like that LOL

 

Priority mail kicks ass.

 

It was a knife edged and lightened 3.5 crank. (took around 6 lbs off)

Problem is i didnt ship it. I never use any thing but UPS. They have never disappointed me, damaged any thing or lost any thing.

 

ugh...this totally sucks man. Sorry to hear Kris. I hope all works out well and we will get to see a badass build.

I think you should get another one Knife-edged though. It'll be worth the weight...I mean wait.

 

6lbs off the crank and knife edged is alot. The crank won't be any weaker?

 

^^they dont remove anything that is essential to strength.


Sorry to hear about your troubles, Kris. Seems like between you and that other guy with the CL seats that FEDEX isnt doing themselves or their customers any favors here lately..

I agree with JCharged-get another one done up.

 

Id like to, but time isnt on my side here. Im talking to the shop that did it and they are working with FEDEX on a resolution. As for them making me another one they are swamped (summer and racing has started) and dont know if they can get to it right away.
Im sure it went from a 500K+ mile crank to a 200K but they only removed what was safe from the counterweights. (they are taking more off the 4cyl honda cranks). They and one other (rev) said the crank was good for probably close to 1200hp stock and that it was built like a brick shit house.

 

That is bul...FEDEX definitely owes you for your trouble and their neglect. Lame.

 

so the stock crank is good to 1200hp? i know its forged. hmmm. just for fun im gonna try to get 500whp out of the stock block. that when i have my other, . almost spilled the beans, haha

 

 

Kris, glad to see you doin some more work. Sucks about the crank, i think itll work itself out. I would go with the stock crank for now, but eventually theyre gonna have to front you a new knife edged crank, which can then go into your "race" motor.

Decking the block or head for a higher CR? Im kinda out of the N/A game for now, but what about your AFR's on such a high compression engine. Do you have 93 octane out were your at? Is this the same engine that you were supercharging last year?

Sorry for all the ?s ive been gone for some time.

 

hope you get another one

 

Not all 3.5 cranks are forged

 

There wont be any switching of cranks. Once its in, its in. There will be one motor for it. As for decking the block it was just a possibility. Nothing is set in stone. It all depended on what i was actually doing with the motor. The SC fell thru that i had. It would have cost more to rebuild than it was worth (could have bought a new one for the same price)
Im still looking into my options. I have a new 3.5 ordered and the RL pistons are waiting for a home. Now its looking like i may go FI instead of NA???? And yes all we have around here is 93, but it will be tuned to run on 91 (for when i have to travel and thats all there is)

 

Don't give up on the NA just yet. There is still plenty of items out there to get where you want to get without going FI (i.e. bigger intake plenums, porting and polishing manifold, runners, head?)
I have a lot of respect for these engines. Yeah, I may have a forced induction ride myself, but the sound that the j32a2 has, mated with the 6speed is just amazing, and the power that it had was there when you wanted it, no lag. (can you tell I miss mine lol)

Plus with as high of a CR that you're going with going FI you'll only be able to get around 5-6 psi without having to worry about detonation, but maybe that's just enough to give it that extra push. Now going with the 3.5 are you suffering any loss in the top end? I know you'll gain some torque, which is what these engines need, but what about hp? I know for DSM's we can go with a stroker kit (2.4,2.3,2.2,2.1 from 2.0) and they give a lot more torque which is better for street app, but won't be able to rev as high without ill effect, so they would stick with a smaller turbo for quicker spool and more efficient in their rpm range. However, most 1/4 mile dsm's stick with the 2.0 and rev to 8500 and can put a huge snail in there, but maybe that's just a DSM thing lol.

Either way, you've got enough experience and knowledge to surprise the shit out of us, so whatever happens you'll still have the audience at the edge of their seats.

 

If u want to stay na but still have the boost affect. Spray a 65-75 shot. I'm spraying a 125 dry on my cl ad it changes the whole car. U go through gears like if they were all 1st gear. Had a misfire twice, so I went with a smaller jet on the fuel pressure side and no problems now. I'm banking that I'm putting down at leas if not more than 300whp. Its that small edge over the competition

 

BOOSTTT

Murky these engines dont need alot of boost to make hp, there was a CL-S running only like 7 psi and putting down 4xx whp

Plus i think a little lag is good for FWD, since its so much harder for us to keep traction

whether or not the TL will lose how high it can rev due to the 3.5 will depend on the rod ratio.. which i have no idea what it is but afaik with these engines it should be ok

and Rajca, Kris doesnt like juice, he likes the road course he'd go through it way too quick

oh and Kris, are you gonna use water/meth injection?

 

That's why I got 2 10lbs bottles. One bottle is still holding up strong with over 800psi (no heater) and I've shot it numerous time in 2,3,4,5. With the heater the bottles will last a long time

 

the 3.5 can still rev as high as the type-s, the accords with swaps arent having problems.

Nos: waste of money every week

 

In the long run FI is better for me. I never liked juice. I only find it good for 1/4 mile racing (which i do MAYBE once a year) Plus with putting on 40-50k miles a year and not always being near a place to fill it i dont like not having power.