Engine upper part oil-soaked needs opinions
#1
Engine upper part oil-soaked needs opinions
Hi all,
I have owned my 2003 TL since 5 years, bought with 30K miles and just reached 60K recently without any problems, anyway none that I am aware of. Changed oil frequently every 4K miles, service 45K and 60K done.
Today for the first time I removed the 2 engine cover plates, the inner steel one and the outer plastic one. To my dismay I saw that the inner cover is oily and the engine part under it is soaked with oil as in the pictures. There is about haft a tea spoon of oil accumulated in each one of the seven cavities .
![](http://s787.photobucket.com/albums/yy159/petrusky70/Acura_TL/IMG_1029.jpg)
![](http://s787.photobucket.com/albums/yy159/petrusky70/Acura_TL/IMG_1030.jpg)
The 3rd picture shows that on the wall of the horseshoe trench at the right near the vac line there is a layer of black soot, same soot accumulation on the counterpart of the cover. Since there is a hole in the middle of the trench (circled with white) I did not want to clean the trench lest soot might fall into the hole.
![](http://s787.photobucket.com/albums/yy159/petrusky70/Acura_TL/IMG_1031.jpg)
My questions:
1) Is there something wrong with the oil and soot accumulation? Head gasket leaking?
2) What is the hole in the trench for?
3) Can I scrap the soot out after stuffing the hole up?
4) Can I start the engine with the covers removed to see if oil is leaking?
5) I would not do it but can I drive the car with the covers removed?
Thanks for your advices!
I have owned my 2003 TL since 5 years, bought with 30K miles and just reached 60K recently without any problems, anyway none that I am aware of. Changed oil frequently every 4K miles, service 45K and 60K done.
Today for the first time I removed the 2 engine cover plates, the inner steel one and the outer plastic one. To my dismay I saw that the inner cover is oily and the engine part under it is soaked with oil as in the pictures. There is about haft a tea spoon of oil accumulated in each one of the seven cavities .
![](http://s787.photobucket.com/albums/yy159/petrusky70/Acura_TL/IMG_1029.jpg)
![](http://s787.photobucket.com/albums/yy159/petrusky70/Acura_TL/IMG_1030.jpg)
The 3rd picture shows that on the wall of the horseshoe trench at the right near the vac line there is a layer of black soot, same soot accumulation on the counterpart of the cover. Since there is a hole in the middle of the trench (circled with white) I did not want to clean the trench lest soot might fall into the hole.
![](http://s787.photobucket.com/albums/yy159/petrusky70/Acura_TL/IMG_1031.jpg)
My questions:
1) Is there something wrong with the oil and soot accumulation? Head gasket leaking?
2) What is the hole in the trench for?
3) Can I scrap the soot out after stuffing the hole up?
4) Can I start the engine with the covers removed to see if oil is leaking?
5) I would not do it but can I drive the car with the covers removed?
Thanks for your advices!
Last edited by texholdem; 03-07-2011 at 10:25 PM.
#2
Always Working In
As far as the "soot" look up the Egr cleaning in the DIY, main section of second gen thread. Oil may be normal, idk. I drive a 99. Different manifold.
#5
I got the Shifts
iTrader: (5)
1) Is there something wrong with the oil and soot accumulation? Head gasket leaking?
normal for the oil to go in there from the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve. its actually supposed to shoot oill in your intake. its for manufactures to get better ratings on emissions. an oil catch can removed the oil accumulation and keeps your intake clean and your car better running.
2) What is the hole in the trench for?
the tranch recirculates exhaust gas into the engine for emission purposes. DONT CLOG IT
3) Can I scrap the soot out after stuffing the hole up?
scrape it off and clean it up real nice but dont stuff the hole
4) Can I start the engine with the covers removed to see if oil is leaking?
only if you want your car to shoot flames and possibly damage the engine
5) I would not do it but can I drive the car with the covers removed?
NOOOO
normal for the oil to go in there from the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve. its actually supposed to shoot oill in your intake. its for manufactures to get better ratings on emissions. an oil catch can removed the oil accumulation and keeps your intake clean and your car better running.
2) What is the hole in the trench for?
the tranch recirculates exhaust gas into the engine for emission purposes. DONT CLOG IT
3) Can I scrap the soot out after stuffing the hole up?
scrape it off and clean it up real nice but dont stuff the hole
4) Can I start the engine with the covers removed to see if oil is leaking?
only if you want your car to shoot flames and possibly damage the engine
5) I would not do it but can I drive the car with the covers removed?
NOOOO
Trending Topics
#8
please carefuly read the diy on EGR cleaning
you have NOT done anything yet and its very important to do fully
the oil in top section is perfectly normal- dont sweat it,,just wipe up when removing manifold from engine for cleaning
the carbon is what we remove from the length of the manifold =
from egr valve to other end where you saw,,must be clean all the way thru, and to each of the 6 ports in it too
requires 3 cans carb cleaner, some rags, a wire coat hanger --to soften and remove all that crud inside the hole you can see
this occurs to all of us,, every 75kmiles needs a service- not in the owner book~
you have NOT done anything yet and its very important to do fully
the oil in top section is perfectly normal- dont sweat it,,just wipe up when removing manifold from engine for cleaning
the carbon is what we remove from the length of the manifold =
from egr valve to other end where you saw,,must be clean all the way thru, and to each of the 6 ports in it too
requires 3 cans carb cleaner, some rags, a wire coat hanger --to soften and remove all that crud inside the hole you can see
this occurs to all of us,, every 75kmiles needs a service- not in the owner book~
#10
it seems some of the pics formerly posted on the egr diy (from acura site) are missing and try to redirect you to acura pay website
dont fall for it!
we have pics from members that are all still here..just keep gong thru pages as needed
someday someone will make a new diy pics set
dont fall for it!
we have pics from members that are all still here..just keep gong thru pages as needed
someday someone will make a new diy pics set
#12
tip on the outlaw install:
where you have to remove a few of the studs to install longer ones that come with the kit--use the double nut method- tighten against each other and then use that lower nut with open end wrench to remove stud
Using vice grips as some places suggest, can result in metal shavings getting in some very bad places
work smarter not harder
remember at least 3 cans non-chlorinated carb cleaner,, unless you own a solvent tank
where you have to remove a few of the studs to install longer ones that come with the kit--use the double nut method- tighten against each other and then use that lower nut with open end wrench to remove stud
Using vice grips as some places suggest, can result in metal shavings getting in some very bad places
work smarter not harder
remember at least 3 cans non-chlorinated carb cleaner,, unless you own a solvent tank
#13
yes please, i am very interested in the Thermoblock Spacer DIY and yours will be helpful for 2003 model year since the other is for the 1999. It would be great to see it step by step.
#14
its the same procedure--there are just more ports on the 00+ cars
99 has 1 egr port,,later has 6
99 has 1 egr port,,later has 6
#15
Instructor
iTrader: (6)
tip on the outlaw install:
where you have to remove a few of the studs to install longer ones that come with the kit--use the double nut method- tighten against each other and then use that lower nut with open end wrench to remove stud
Using vice grips as some places suggest, can result in metal shavings getting in some very bad places
work smarter not harder
remember at least 3 cans non-chlorinated carb cleaner,, unless you own a solvent tank
where you have to remove a few of the studs to install longer ones that come with the kit--use the double nut method- tighten against each other and then use that lower nut with open end wrench to remove stud
Using vice grips as some places suggest, can result in metal shavings getting in some very bad places
work smarter not harder
remember at least 3 cans non-chlorinated carb cleaner,, unless you own a solvent tank
P
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post