'03 TL alarm going off itself - Problem fixed!
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10th Gear
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 12
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'03 TL alarm going off itself - Problem fixed!
For those looking, I found a problem and solution.
Last night at 5am my factory alarm went off. Ran to the window and shut it off with the remote. It was fine for the rest of the night. Next day the usual chirp was gone when I used the remote to lock it and the LED on the door stopped blinking.
I read some postings on the net and decided it was the hood latch, The battery was fine and it was raining for 2 days as well.
To remove the hood latch do the following:
- Remove the press in clips that hold the top trim guard in place and remove guard from the radiator support.
- Remove the 2 press clips holding the grill to the rad support.
- Mark the height of the hood latch and remove the 3 x 10mm bolts and 2 x push clips under the latch holding the plastic latch cover.
- Push through the 2 nibs? (clips) on the top radiator support, they hold the alarm wire harnes and hood latch cables from underneath.
- pull the hood latch out and un-clip the alarm wire connector by pressing in the back end levers (they are ribbed to help) and pulling the connector apart.
- use a screwdriver and pry the cable from the latch groove and wiggle the ball end free from the lever.
- The latch assembly is now free. You may need to move the grill to swing the latch out and around while you work on removing it.
I used degreaser and a small paintbrush to remove the years of sandy grime. Under the crap was a tiny micro-switch. This was the problem (HONDA
). I put the meter to it and found the switch open (no flow of power) when the latch was open and about 300 ohms when the latch was closed. I tapped on the switch and the switch went to open?? Bad switch!
Here's a wierd part. With the latch out I armed the car and it chirped and the LED was on
. The car should not arm with the hood latch point out of the loop but it did. Its an '03 TL so maybe they made some changes. The posts I read mentioned to jumper the wires at the end thus tricking it into thinking the switch is closed. I cut off the connector end from the latch and kept it in case I have to do this.
Well all seemed good. I taped up the connector end under the rad frame and reinstalled the latch in reverse order. When done I gave it a decent shot of white grease and checked the latch before I closed the hood. Jam a screwdriver into the latch until it clicks (a lot of force required), then open it again from inside the car. Then try the hood and if you marked your latch you should be able to walk away without readjusting the latch.
All in all it took aboout 1 1/2 hours. Keep my fingers crossed it not a door switch!
Hope this helps you guys.
Last night at 5am my factory alarm went off. Ran to the window and shut it off with the remote. It was fine for the rest of the night. Next day the usual chirp was gone when I used the remote to lock it and the LED on the door stopped blinking.
I read some postings on the net and decided it was the hood latch, The battery was fine and it was raining for 2 days as well.
To remove the hood latch do the following:
- Remove the press in clips that hold the top trim guard in place and remove guard from the radiator support.
- Remove the 2 press clips holding the grill to the rad support.
- Mark the height of the hood latch and remove the 3 x 10mm bolts and 2 x push clips under the latch holding the plastic latch cover.
- Push through the 2 nibs? (clips) on the top radiator support, they hold the alarm wire harnes and hood latch cables from underneath.
- pull the hood latch out and un-clip the alarm wire connector by pressing in the back end levers (they are ribbed to help) and pulling the connector apart.
- use a screwdriver and pry the cable from the latch groove and wiggle the ball end free from the lever.
- The latch assembly is now free. You may need to move the grill to swing the latch out and around while you work on removing it.
I used degreaser and a small paintbrush to remove the years of sandy grime. Under the crap was a tiny micro-switch. This was the problem (HONDA
). I put the meter to it and found the switch open (no flow of power) when the latch was open and about 300 ohms when the latch was closed. I tapped on the switch and the switch went to open?? Bad switch!Here's a wierd part. With the latch out I armed the car and it chirped and the LED was on
. The car should not arm with the hood latch point out of the loop but it did. Its an '03 TL so maybe they made some changes. The posts I read mentioned to jumper the wires at the end thus tricking it into thinking the switch is closed. I cut off the connector end from the latch and kept it in case I have to do this.Well all seemed good. I taped up the connector end under the rad frame and reinstalled the latch in reverse order. When done I gave it a decent shot of white grease and checked the latch before I closed the hood. Jam a screwdriver into the latch until it clicks (a lot of force required), then open it again from inside the car. Then try the hood and if you marked your latch you should be able to walk away without readjusting the latch.
All in all it took aboout 1 1/2 hours. Keep my fingers crossed it not a door switch!
Hope this helps you guys.
10th Gear
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 13
Likes: 1
Hey I just posted my fix to this same problem a few minutes ago. Just disconnected the harness and the alarm works fine......no need for a jumper wire like everybody says. Now I just have to figure out a way to best tuck the harness underneath the radiator support since I no longer have the clip to hold it up. 02 CL-S here.
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