Just to be clear smoke will not cause the sensors to fail. If there was a lot of material built up on and around the sensors that could cause them to report failure specially if any of the material had any metallic components as these sensors are magnetic not optical. Hopefully clearing your error codes will allow the car to start. Let us know, The timing belt is one of the worst jobs on these cars due to the lack of room to work.

 

I did it once already but replaced only the belt. https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...eplace-963321/ . Live and learn. Beside smoke a lot of rubber was in that fell of the belt.

 

Both idler pulleys are shot. It started 6 weeks ago when I jumped curb with left wheel to avoid a furry at street. I heard metallic noise after it on the way home exactly in the area of timing belt. A couple teeth are lost at the belt too. Obviously, the idlers were worn out and the accident just sped up it. How much capable I was of turning the engine, I didn't hear any noise. Will take gamble 200$ and install new timing belt set. So far everything is apart except the water pump and mount that covers it. Btw totaled car, most likely, for an opossum. I guess now is time above one sends power ball in my direction.

 

Wow, that looks awful, while your there use some Dawn dishwashing detergent or some cans of degreaser and clean out the area. A lot of crud there from the belt and oil. A new timing belt setup should clear up the issue. Don't lose that harmonic balancer key. I think the timing belt is once of the worst jobs on these cars, due to lack of room to work. Good Luck.

 

Almost 1/2 done. Yeah, will be lottery if engine is ok. However, this job is relaxing compared with my contractor job. Tomorow suppose do railing for home builder where framing is not done properly so do not know how attach newel posts. I guess no engine degreaser in the area because of crank sensor. Brake cleaner should not be used too. I'm thinking Windex at moment.

 

I would pull the crank sensor out (not difficult) and clean it all off, you really want to remove any debris and oily material from around the timing belt area. You can use degreaser but just need to be careful around the plastic. Not a big deal if you get it on the plastic you just need to rinse it off well. Use some Isopropyl Alcohol on the electrical connections, plastic can be cleaned off with water. .

 

First will bring my compressor and blow it out. Than spray some sort of cleaner.

 

Better photo of stuck up in cps area. Of course need to move cps because when I change water pump some fluid will go down. Will clean cps with crc electronic cleaner and rest with engine cleaner.
Tbh there is half chance that car will not be ok, piston valve may be. However can give it a shot, especially with today price of used cars.

 

Definitely understand the issue of the price of cars. That is why I redid my transmission and front end. Saw a 4 year old Honda Accord that had 80,000 miles and they wanted more than it originally cost. Ridiculous..

 

Man but is it nice that you can post pictures of whatsoever for entire world to see. Love internet.

 

Just from the missing teeth alone, there is a good chance your valves are bent. That's a lot of missing cogs

 

I’m honestly surprised that there weren’t any loud engine sounds prior to this catastrophe; the idler pulley bearings are non-existent. Wondering if the belt was snagged and the engine tore the teeth off…

wondering if BB will just call it quits or source an engine from a pick n pull.

 

I turned the engine a dose times with that belt on with hands and rachet at crank bolt and it looked free to me. Will replace set and let it go if sound will be bad. The car served me well for 5,5 years. I can spend 200$ to give it a chance. When the car stalled on the highway, I tried to start it a few times and the sound of engine was clear.

 

I was listening to loud music when it snapped. Do not know it there was noise. However, when I turned the engine at side of hgw there wasn't any bad noise. Of course will give up at car if would be some metallic noise.

 

We are all interested in what happens when you get it back together. Wishing you good results!

 

What is torque for tensioner pulley? It does not say in the service manual. A guy on youtube says it is 14lbf and for idler pulley is 33lbf. The idler pulley is so in manual. It is bolt in upper left corner of photo. And what would be than torque for bolt that hold pulley to pulley frame. Red and blue lines.

 

Edit guy at youtube say 19ftl.

 

Red arrow=TB adjuster bolt 19lbs-ft.
Blue, I always used a new complete TB adjuster pulley assembly rather than replace just the pulley.

 

^^^ Yeah when I did open Aisin set it was complete adjuster.

 

I have retarded problem now. Removed crankshaft pulley and put back crankshaft bolt to spin engine for test. After I was done with the timing belt on, I put a wrench on the crank bolt and another on the cam bolt. Instead of opening the crank bolt I managed to hop 3 teeth at the timing belt. I will redo the timing but how to open crank bolt. I thought simply to put in drive, block wheels and then open crank bolt but at internet it is said it works only with manual. Even on the internet they recommended how I did but instead of opening cb I jumped teeth. Will do jamming of that pin, red line, somehow if I cannot put in drive to hold crankshaft in place.
Edit I did wrong didn't pull out that pin, red arrow, and now crank bolt is pressing against it. Pin and bolt should be ok if I manage somehow to open it.

 

I think you can take the torque converter inspection cover off and place something in the torque converter teeth to keep it from turning on you…

 

^^^ But we cannot put automatic transmission in the drive and so block crank?

 

Didn't get much sleep so I want to make sure I understand this correctly. You had the crank bolt out, replaced the belt, put the bolt back in and rotated the crankshaft . After that you need to remove the crank bolt to put on the harmonic balancer but the bolt is now stuck and the picture you posted is before you put the bolt back in before turning the crank. Is that correct?

 

Yes, right so. I would like if can put car in drive or 1st speed and turn then. From some reason it is said only manual can do it. Actually need to redo timing now as cams move for a few tooths when I did holding at cam bolt and crank bolt.

 

If nothing will put bac timing and jam that pin and than should open.

 

When you put the bolt back in I would guess that it bottomed out and is stuck. The first time I removed the bolt I tried putting an 6 foot piece of pipe on an 1/2" breaker bar and it didn't even blink but the breaker bar bent nicely. I wound up bracing a breaker bar against the ground (concrete) and hit the ignition to crank the car in short bursts. It finally came off but the bar came off and made a nice dent in the oil filter. Of course you will need to get the timing belt installed and lined up correctly and tighten the cam shaft bolt ( if it is loose) before you attempt this, You will probably need to jack the car up and put it on stands in order to get a strong bar (usually long) to fit in there. Make sure you have everything set correctly (i.e the direction the crank will turn, the side you place the breaker bar and socket) you do not want the breaker bar flying out. Make sure you or anyone else is not by that side of the car when trying this, you can easily break an arm or even get killed.

 

I opened the bolt first but when I put back to rotate the engine it is where it stuck. Now I do not have pulley like housing for Honda special socket. I will find a solution. Bought this https://www.menards.com/main/plumbin...723-c-8615.htm Hope it will work. If not will stuck pin in photo than open. Just upset now need to do retiming. Btw it is not big deal either.

 

Clearly hydraulic change gears in AT. When the engine does not work hydraulic cannot either. So, it is clear.

 

???

 

^^^ I will do tomorrow, or when I get time to work at the car, photo to show what happened. But it should be solved easily. Will do photo of it to. I'm half way through assembling back everything.

 

I did this at 27:47 . Tried to open bolt as is standard holding clockwise at cam and counterclockwise at crank but crank sprocket jumped a few toots. I should be smarter and stop when I see I need a lot of force to do it. How much I see timing belt is not damaged. Obviously, it is not good thing to do it for belt but it is as is right now.

 

Edit. It didn't get stuck now because the engine is rotating easily than when I was rotating engine with old belt and pulleys to check for damage.

 

To make sure I understand you have the belt on, you have the tensioner released, and you put the crank bolt back in (without the harmonic balancer) and then using a wrench or socket you turned the crank. Did the belt move freely and the timing marks aligned after multiple rotations? Assuming it did you now want to remove the crankshaft bolt. You are trying to hold the camshaft so you can loosen the bolt without changing the belt position. I would use the procedure I described above if the bolt is stuck so hard that jamming the cam shaft sprocket won't hold it. You can redo the timing if it moves and place a few flat washers under the bolt before you tighten the bolt before testing the belt alignment again. You can also remove the plugs to make it easier to turn the crankshaft so the bolt won't need to be so tight before the crank shaft moves.

 

As I said, when I removed the crankshaft pulley I did a few rotations with old belt and it is where crank bolt get stuck. I'm redone with timing and everything is fine. New timing belt move smoothly till compression points as it should be. Tomorrow will open crank bolt, I know how. Only I should be smarter and do not use much force when I tried crank, cam, timing belt routine. Timing is good and was yesterday to till I jump 1-2 teeth forcing crank, cam, timing belt.

 

This is what I did wrong with crank bolt and crank tooth. Forget to get tooth out and it get stuck.


I had to use a bar to hold tooth and crank sprocket in place. Again, I wasn't capable of opening it with the breaker bar. My friend suggested using an impact wrench. I have a big one for my carpentry job. Impact open bolt without problem. The difference is impact is hammering instead of pushing. Worked for me.



Well than I went farther and completed the job. Then waited till 7pm, hot, to try start the car. You remember 11 teeth missing, I rotated with hands to with that belt, I tried to start car with that belt with missing teeth. The rear cam jumped multiple times 60 degrees when I installed the timing belt. Tried to start engine wasn't capable. After a couple try only what I hear is clicking from starter. Checked voltage of battery 11,9V. Should start with that voltage, I guess. Any way I charged the battery overnight.
This morning I hoped that the problem is gas in cylinders from trying to start one month go. Installed battery and tried to start car. To my huge surprise the car started after only 2 seconds of cranking. However, engine worked rough. But after approximately 5 minutes, I guess the engine had to clean gas in cylinders, everything is fine. If anything, the engine is working better than before. Job done in style. My 2 cents different interference engines have different amount of movement in cam crank relations and seem to me Honda engine allow a lot. However, I never went off more than 60 degrees left or right crank cam.

 

wow...I'm quite surprised to see the neglect it took and it's still quite fine. It's lottery ticket time!

 

^^^ Opossum is standing beside me. You remember? I jumped the curb to avoid him and heard metallic noise in timing belt area. Now if nobody wins mega millions past night I gonna spend 20$. If I win big one, I go find opossum and we will live like kings for the rest of our life. Btw this is song that I listened to last 5 weeks.

 

A comment at youtube - In my experience it's probably 85% or more are just fine after a belt break. I really don't understand how so many guys have these bent valve issues. I think a lot technicians like to make a little extra money on the whole interference engine scheme. Maybe it's my location and the weather allows the parts to survive most times OR maybe most of you guys are just ripping people off

 

If I would use impact driver when tried to open crank bolt and holding camshaft in place, what I did wrote in #60, probably would be capable. Impact does not transfer full force to the opposite holder as wrench does.

 

Didn't realize you left the key in when putting the bolt in. That will definitely cause it to bind. Sorry would have suggested an impact wrench but that is one of the first things I use, just didn't occur to me you didn't. In any case congratulations on completing the car and having everything in working order. Your perseverance paid off. Good job! and safe driving.