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Lol holy shit. How many miles is in that belt?

 

Do not know. Both at auction past year. Checked quickly belt past year. Had cracks but now have much bigger cracks. Didn't age well in this one year. This is photo, bad one, that I did past year. Photo is bad bat you can see that cracks wasn't so bad like now.

 

Yeah.....i would replace that yesterday

 

How many miles on the car?

And yes, definitely replace ASAP. You're playing with fire there. Drive it like a grandma because with all those cracks you're going to get some serious timing drift at high RPM.

 

^^^ 222 k.

 

I'd wager a guess that the timing belt has never, ever been replaced.

 

Would say first owner replace it at 90K but second owner, a Somali, didn't do it never.

 

Holy Shit! that is the first time in my Life I see a timing belt in that terrible condition on a J Series.....
You are running it on spare time my friend, Replace that thing ASAP! DO NOT USE THE CAR.

 

^^^ Actually I'm half way through replacing. No way I would start that car with that belt.

 

 

I think that's the worst timing belt I have seen.

 

Did replaced it. A few notices that I didn't find else and from my experience. Moderator can move it to DIY if he want.
1. Was to lazy to move engine to TDC. Did set crankshaft at tdc but front camshaft was at nr 5. Did believe how dots at belt and sprockets is enough. Wrong. Front cam sprocket moved around 60' left or right by even slight touch. Had to go order camshaft holder. So do not do it. Go completely at TDC.
2. You need clamps to hold belt at cams and crank sprockets why you work at it. At internet they recommend paper clips to do it? Went to buy spring clamps like any normal man would do. Spring clamps help with alternator belt installation to.
3. AND THIS IS BIGGEST INFORMATION BY FAR and reason why I bother to post this. In order to put belt on you should go first top part 1 cam, water pump, 2 cam. Then you need to loose idler pulley, right one, not only left one where is tensioner. It is recommended so in manual. I wondered why I have to do it. It allow pulley to twist just little so you can put belt on pulley. Left pulley with tensioner is straight forward.
4. In all that fight to put belt on crank sprocket moved to right for 4 tooth. I used 30mm socket or so to engage that pin at crank to move it back to TDC. Was smart enough to not move forward full circle as this is interference engine.
5. After put belt on and moved engine to real TDC with 2 cams at TDC to I notice that front cam sprocket is one tooth of. It was easy to adjust with loosening right pulley again. Didn't have to take entire belt of again. Of course 2" spring clamp at rear cam sprocket and 3" spring clamp at crank sprocket did holding job.
Timing is perfect. Only thing that didn't turn well is power steering pump that I brought from junk yard and is noisy like former one. But it is only 2 screws and I can do that whenever. Beside clamps go buy belt tensioner holder for alternator belt. Around 15$ and well worth it.

 

When I first start car it was somehow abruptly with new timing belt and alternator belt. Alternator belt start smoke for second or so. When I went to test drive I had vibrations for 5 minutes or so but after it everything calm down, except power steering pump that is whinny just little.

 

I do not know how forget this. Honda crank holder tool is a must. 3/4 t bar and extension pipe, crank holder with 1/2 breaker bar stuck between tie end rod etc, did open that 19 mm bolt in 30 seconds.

 

Holly crap!!!

 

Well I had to replace that tie end rod after replacing timing belt. Do not use tie end rod like holder when try to open crankshaft bolt.

 

Good job bbsitum!!!!!

 

This is really great info, thanks a bunch!

Does anyone think that an impact gun would get the 19mm bolt off pretty easily? My TL is rolling up on 200K and I need to get my belt done.

 

^^^ I can say you about it like a carpenter that work with impact guns. I do not think so. Maybe somewhere around 500 NM impact WRENCH would do. 1000 NM big ones would do for sure.
Small one can not do nothing to it. Bought this recently that is 180 nm https://www.tylertool.com/bosch-idh1...hoCeycQAvD_BwE . Wasn't capable to open screws that I opened easy with 1/2 breaker bar and socket. I do believe that my 3/4 t bar with 6' pipe extension was force of close to 1000 Nm. There is impact factor but small impacts are nowhere near to open it.

 

Thanks, I was talking about air impact wrenches. It sounds like I'd need a 750-1000 ft-lb wrench then.

 

Actually I remember now at another car we did open with Milwaukee 500 Nm that thing. Should be enough. You will not open it with Makita standard small one for sure. 750 Nm should be plenty. 500 nm is around 450 ftlb

 

Checked some my writings from different projects in construction and car fixing (like hobby). You need not go up to 750 ftlb. 450 ftlb should be plenty enough like this one https://www.cpomilwaukee.com/milwauk...QaAlESEALw_wcB
Even worth try something like 325 ftlb like this .
1000 ftlb is for bolts used in bridges and skyscrapers. I do not think it have any use at small cars.

 

This is what I did copy paste somewhere in past from some mechanic forum I guess. Wort to have here, even for my notice in future.
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My experience is with air wrenches. Years ago I purchased a cheap impact that had a rating of 300 ft lbs. After a few months I was tired of breaking bolts loose with a breaker bar then using the inpact. I then purchased a 550 ft lbs Ingersal Rand and never looked back. I don't even know where my cheap inpact is and don't care.
Air impacts lose power after the new wears off, don't know if electrics are the same.
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300 ft pounds isn't enough for many bolts on a car. You'll find yourself freeing some fasteners with a breaker bar first, especially if they are rusted solid.

That doesn't have a chance of freeing an axle nut on a FWD car. Even my old Ingersoll rand couldn't budge it, but its older than i am and probably needs a rebuild. I had to resort to a 4 foot piece of LP pipe on my breaker bar, and still broke 2 of them before i got it off. Good thing they had a lifetime warranty.
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Is 300ft/lbs enough? For me, No. I work on my cars and often encounter bolts that are much tighter than that. I recently had a CV axle nut that I could not get off with a 5' long piece of pipe. The entire car was moving. my friend brought over a IR titanium impact and it took the nut off like it was hand tight. I bought one of those wrenches the next day. I think the torque spec on the axle nut was 500 lb/ft.
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So you need 500 ft lb, worth try 325 ft lb

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...ics%2A-784622/

/endthread

 

Here's my flywheel holder. 10 bucks at home depot

 

^^^ You can rent original crank holder from any parts store for free (pay, money returned when you return tool). No need for improvisation.

 

You are absolutely right. It took me hours to improvise this complicated piece and now the damn thing is in my toolbox taking up space. What was I thinking?

 

Can anyone speak to what parts of the process in this thread would be different than the 2g TL (J32A1/2)?

The only immediately obvious thing is that the P/S pump belt angles forward toward the alternator instead of around the side motor mount.

 

Just if someone bump in this tread. Putting timing belt on has its procedure. I did wrong and front cam jump at me at time. It is copy from some youtube comment.

----------------------No wonders the cams wants to jump on you, You NEVER start the belt on the cam pulleys..
You start from the crankshaft > front cam pulley > water pump > rear cam pulley > tensioner. This way its almost next to impossible to jump the cam..
This is the official Honda Maintenance Manual procedure.------------------------------------

I guess it exist procedure in Honda Manual. Worth check it.

 

^The most important part of that order is that all of the slack should be where the tensioner sits.

 

Wow, even though this is an old thread. I've never seen a belt that bad.... That person was on borrowed time.