Ebay rotors...too good to be true?
#1
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Ebay rotors...too good to be true?
There's some sick prices on Front and Rear pair deals but from reading feedbacks from the most expensive sellers (amongst the cheaps), 1 in ~250 complained about rust.
I'm no rotor wiz, but can someone explain to us this cheap vs. rust factor please? also...what's this i hear about zink plating for "RUST FREE" rotors...4 life?
to make your life easier heres a link w/ "acura TL rotors" search
LINK
I'm no rotor wiz, but can someone explain to us this cheap vs. rust factor please? also...what's this i hear about zink plating for "RUST FREE" rotors...4 life?
to make your life easier heres a link w/ "acura TL rotors" search
LINK
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#2
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I have seen those too, but one thing I am worried about (especially on the cross drilled rotors) is cracking because the holes might have been drilled after the manufacture process. Most of them only offer a warranty for 60 days, but I intend to use the rotors longer that 60 days.
#3
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FYI - the rotora warranty on rotors is 500 miles or two weeks, and those rotors have been widely used on the forum with no problems. You're not going to get a good warranty on aftermarket rotors.
#4
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Originally Posted by fla-tls
FYI - the rotora warranty on rotors is 500 miles or two weeks, and those rotors have been widely used on the forum with no problems. You're not going to get a good warranty on aftermarket rotors.
#5
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hmmm...i see
check this reply to a message sent to a rotor selling guy.
"hello, yes the rotors are made by cast iron steel so they will rust eventually, its normal for the rotors to rust, but thats the only complaint i have just from that one customer, but thats it..and yes we do re-list and we can also get the rotors whenever you need them thanks."
hehe...should i buy?
check this reply to a message sent to a rotor selling guy.
"hello, yes the rotors are made by cast iron steel so they will rust eventually, its normal for the rotors to rust, but thats the only complaint i have just from that one customer, but thats it..and yes we do re-list and we can also get the rotors whenever you need them thanks."
hehe...should i buy?
#6
@ slide or die @
Thread Starter
hmmm...i see
check this reply to a message sent to a rotor selling guy asking about a complaint from 2 feedbacks.
"hello, yes the rotors are made by cast iron steel so they will rust eventually, its normal for the rotors to rust, but thats the only complaint i have just from that one customer, but thats it..and yes we do re-list and we can also get the rotors whenever you need them thanks."
what do you guys make out of those "ZINK PLATED" rotors?
check this reply to a message sent to a rotor selling guy asking about a complaint from 2 feedbacks.
"hello, yes the rotors are made by cast iron steel so they will rust eventually, its normal for the rotors to rust, but thats the only complaint i have just from that one customer, but thats it..and yes we do re-list and we can also get the rotors whenever you need them thanks."
what do you guys make out of those "ZINK PLATED" rotors?
#7
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It they are zinc plated (obviously not on the wear surfaces), rust will be inhibited for a while.
The fact remains that rotors are a normal wear and tear item. The rotora rotors (for example) have paint (or some sort of coating) on the non wear surfaces.
I'd keep looking and asking questions. I don't think you need zinc plating.
The fact remains that rotors are a normal wear and tear item. The rotora rotors (for example) have paint (or some sort of coating) on the non wear surfaces.
I'd keep looking and asking questions. I don't think you need zinc plating.
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#8
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suppose they keep the rust for a "while" once this passes, rust will come along and we all know it looks ugly...i wouln't know, ima break newby...would it this even affect performance? can i scratch the rust off withough messin the rotor?
ima look into better more expensive ones...hmmm ever think of finding breaks from a junkyarded mercedes? im sure there's a lot here in south FL!!
ima look into better more expensive ones...hmmm ever think of finding breaks from a junkyarded mercedes? im sure there's a lot here in south FL!!
#9
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look at your brakes after it rains and you havent drivin all day...you will see surface rust, but once you drive some, it comes off from braking. So yes you could get it off, but best to just drive some and it will come off itself.
#10
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Thread Starter
cool...But then, the only rust being scrubbed will be that which is in the way of the pads...the rest of the rotor might rust to hell.
Maibe if the rotor is Zink/Platinum plated then only the area under the pads might rust since it'll scrub off the plating, it'll rust but it'll will go when i drive (daily). I gotta ask this people.
+ rep to you guys!
*sorry if nothing makes sence is too early and i'm not awake yet.
Maibe if the rotor is Zink/Platinum plated then only the area under the pads might rust since it'll scrub off the plating, it'll rust but it'll will go when i drive (daily). I gotta ask this people.
+ rep to you guys!
*sorry if nothing makes sence is too early and i'm not awake yet.
#11
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I have zinc plated drilled/slotted rotors on my TL-S. The zinc plating helps prevent rust on the non contact areas like the hub, cooling fins, & outer edge. The zinc coating is not on the surface contact area of the rotor. I have had mine for almost 2 years and they are just now showing some slight discoloration where the zinc coating is. No rotor out there is immune to rust completly (except for exotic carbon composite rotors on some Porsches & Ferraris), but the zinc coating is the best solution for delaying the rust (does a better job than high heat paint or powder coating). Many of the rotor vendors offer zinc plating for minimal additional charge and I got mine at no additional charge.
I highly recommend the zinc plating. Look around and find a vendor that will include it at no cost.
I highly recommend the zinc plating. Look around and find a vendor that will include it at no cost.
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#12
Good thread. I am interested in some slotted and drilled rotors for my Type S. I would think that Brembo is a no-brainer, but are there other brads to reccommend? I agree there are a lot of sweet deals on eBay, but I am concerned with the brands.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#13
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by leeps
Good thread. I am interested in some slotted and drilled rotors for my Type S. I would think that Brembo is a no-brainer, but are there other brads to reccommend? I agree there are a lot of sweet deals on eBay, but I am concerned with the brands.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Originally Posted by 69ssrscam
~sweet info~
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![2 Cents](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/2cents.gif)
Thanks, for info 96SSR!
I think i'ma endup buying some rotors since mine are seriously warped and the dealership wants $250 to resurface!!
heh now that I think about it, this is something people w/ warped roors should HIGHLY consider
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#14
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-Here are the rotors I have:
1 set of front and rear Race Concepts Dimple Drilled and Slotted Rotors -Total Cost: ($270)
I heard about Race Concepts' rotors from austin519 on CarDomain, and he had nothing but good to say about them. Considering the rotors they offered for the TL were dimple drilled AND slotted, for only $150, it's something I couldn't pass up.
For those that are reading this and don't know, all rotors are not created equal. They can be dimple drilled, cross drilled, and/or slotted. What these techniques do is give the rotor a way to cool off faster by creating more surface area, and allowing cooling deeper within the metal. Stock rotors would quickly crack when a very high performance (aka high friction coefficient) pad is applied to them because they would heat up too quickly and to too high of a temperature. The slots also "bite" into the pads and create more friction.
Secondly, and this is an effect when using stock pads OR aftermarket pads, you will experience less "brake fade" when using slotted rotors. While braking, hot gases build up between the rotor and brake pad, and much like the "water droplets skipping over a hot skillet" phenomenom, cause the pads to come in less contact with the rotors. By drilling holes through or slotting rotors, you are giving the gas a way to escape.
Now, most people in the car performance market know what cross drilled rotors are, and if you're one of those you may ask "Why are these dimple drilled?". First, dimple drilling is drilling the rotor, but not all the way through. So I have to make a distinction here...some rotors are cast with holes in them, such as the Brembo kits, others are drilled by aftermarket companies from "blanks", or rotors that have no drilled holes or slots cast in them. Unless you want to pay premiums for these cast rotors, then you're going to buy them from a company that does them aftermarket.
What a lot of people have run into, and this is the reason that aftermarket drilling has gotten a bad name, is that aftermarket drilled rotors tend to crack easier. The reason for this is that by drilling through a blank cast rotor, the drilling machine creates stress within the metal, which will lead to it cracking sooner. Race Concepts will do a full cross drill if you ask, but prefers to dimple drill, because dimpling the rotors has near the same cooling efficiency and doesn't create this stress in the rotor.
Hope this info is helpful.
69ssrscam
1 set of front and rear Race Concepts Dimple Drilled and Slotted Rotors -Total Cost: ($270)
I heard about Race Concepts' rotors from austin519 on CarDomain, and he had nothing but good to say about them. Considering the rotors they offered for the TL were dimple drilled AND slotted, for only $150, it's something I couldn't pass up.
For those that are reading this and don't know, all rotors are not created equal. They can be dimple drilled, cross drilled, and/or slotted. What these techniques do is give the rotor a way to cool off faster by creating more surface area, and allowing cooling deeper within the metal. Stock rotors would quickly crack when a very high performance (aka high friction coefficient) pad is applied to them because they would heat up too quickly and to too high of a temperature. The slots also "bite" into the pads and create more friction.
Secondly, and this is an effect when using stock pads OR aftermarket pads, you will experience less "brake fade" when using slotted rotors. While braking, hot gases build up between the rotor and brake pad, and much like the "water droplets skipping over a hot skillet" phenomenom, cause the pads to come in less contact with the rotors. By drilling holes through or slotting rotors, you are giving the gas a way to escape.
Now, most people in the car performance market know what cross drilled rotors are, and if you're one of those you may ask "Why are these dimple drilled?". First, dimple drilling is drilling the rotor, but not all the way through. So I have to make a distinction here...some rotors are cast with holes in them, such as the Brembo kits, others are drilled by aftermarket companies from "blanks", or rotors that have no drilled holes or slots cast in them. Unless you want to pay premiums for these cast rotors, then you're going to buy them from a company that does them aftermarket.
What a lot of people have run into, and this is the reason that aftermarket drilling has gotten a bad name, is that aftermarket drilled rotors tend to crack easier. The reason for this is that by drilling through a blank cast rotor, the drilling machine creates stress within the metal, which will lead to it cracking sooner. Race Concepts will do a full cross drill if you ask, but prefers to dimple drill, because dimpling the rotors has near the same cooling efficiency and doesn't create this stress in the rotor.
Hope this info is helpful.
69ssrscam
#15
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Originally Posted by fla-tls
The rotora rotors (for example) have paint (or some sort of coating) on the non wear surfaces.
#16
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Got my Unit Imports drilled (not slotted), zinc'd rotors off the 'Bay for $180 shipped from CA to KY. Have put about 1300-1500 miles on them. Cost me a case of Lite & a 200ml of Maker's Mark to get them installed (highly do-able as a DIY). Love the rotors. Have put 1300-1500 miles on them, and they decreased my braking distance by at least 40%. I don't do any really heavy braking, but I do about 80-90 miles/day in stop-and-go & short runs of 70-85 mph each day, with some decent braking and occasional panic braking. I don't drive extremely hard on the brakes, but the rotors seem to be holding up nicely. My take is, for a little more than a new set of OEM-replacements, my braking is tons better. Now I can't wait to get a set of Green Stuff's to make it even better. . .
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