doing my own oil changes..
08-01-2007, 05:35 PM
#201
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by dnd2984
I still do not believe a $5 filter is good for my car I am gettin the $175
08-01-2007, 05:48 PM
#202
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Cool!, let me know how it worked out for you in 1,000,000.3 miles
Will do
I will give it to amsoil they are very knowledgable but hell for everyday use we dont need a $60 dollar home oil change.
Also Kris, amsoil said they dont rec. doing a engine flush over 80k miles. WOuld this be because the solvents will kill the seals?
08-01-2007, 06:25 PM
#205
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Originally Posted by mnjeepmale
What stores sell Amsoil that every says to buy for changing the TL oil? What kind of oil and filter would be recommended?
08-01-2007, 07:17 PM
#206
Originally Posted by mnjeepmale
What stores sell Amsoil that every says to buy for changing the TL oil? What kind of oil and filter would be recommended?
Fram tough guard or purelator pure ones are great for the money.
I like Mobil 1 oil.
08-01-2007, 07:17 PM
#207
Originally Posted by senixon
I don't believe ANY big stores carry it, you have to go see an Amsoil Dealer or Rep... go on their website and search for one http://www.amsoil.com/dealerlocatorresults/ or just buy it on line from them.
08-01-2007, 07:21 PM
#208
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by dnd2984
Also Kris, amsoil said they dont rec. doing a engine flush over 80k miles. WOuld this be because the solvents will kill the seals?
08-02-2007, 12:14 AM
#209
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Originally Posted by senixon
Oil filters and the 'ol tranny is probably the most talked about topics on this forum, but here are my 
I use Purolator PureOne filters -- really good filter and only cost $6.
Also considered a good filters: Purolator, WIX (aka NAPA Gold), Bosch, Honda OEM... all those are right around $5-6
Then there are others: K&N, Mobile 1 and other that run close to $10, but truth be told they are not all that better then the Napa Gold aka WIX or other commonplace filters out there--You're paying for a shiny label in my opinion. Also there are only a handful of filter manufacturers here in US so you maybe getting the same filter for money with a shiny label.
Then there is FRAM -- this brand in my opinion is of poor construction, prone to failure. I think their filtration abilities are up to the par, but from personal experience and from plenty of rants from others this filter may cost you an engine one day.
There is a study that compares filters and their design from an engineering school -- don't take it as gospel but definitely insightful and covers all the basics of a good filter design.
Link to study -->
I use Purolator PureOne filters -- really good filter and only cost $6.
Also considered a good filters: Purolator, WIX (aka NAPA Gold), Bosch, Honda OEM... all those are right around $5-6
Then there are others: K&N, Mobile 1 and other that run close to $10, but truth be told they are not all that better then the Napa Gold aka WIX or other commonplace filters out there--You're paying for a shiny label in my opinion. Also there are only a handful of filter manufacturers here in US so you maybe getting the same filter for money with a shiny label.
Then there is FRAM -- this brand in my opinion is of poor construction, prone to failure. I think their filtration abilities are up to the par, but from personal experience and from plenty of rants from others this filter may cost you an engine one day.
There is a study that compares filters and their design from an engineering school -- don't take it as gospel but definitely insightful and covers all the basics of a good filter design.
Link to study -->
I went to the Mobile1 website and browsed around. To obtain FULLY synthetic oil, you have to go with the "Mobile 1 Extended Performance" bottles.
This was confirmed by some other members already.
I also went ahead and researched the recommended oil filters on the Mobil 1 site.
http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/Mo....aspx?option=2
The results are a bit surprising....
Current Vehicle:
Year: 2007
Make: Acura
Model: TL-S
Engine Type: 6cyl. 3.5Liter VTEC Naturally Aspirated
Filter matches for the vehicle you selected:
Fram Model PH7317
Purolator Model L14610
Purolator Model PL14610
Mobil 1 does not recommend any of their own oil filters. Go figure
08-02-2007, 12:20 AM
#210
Originally Posted by phambam
I went to the Mobile1 website and browsed around. To obtain FULLY synthetic oil, you have to go with the "Mobile 1 Extended Performance" bottles.
This was confirmed by some other members already.
I also went ahead and researched the recommended oil filters on the Mobil 1 site.
http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/Mo....aspx?option=2
The results are a bit surprising....
Current Vehicle:
Year: 2007
Make: Acura
Model: TL-S
Engine Type: 6cyl. 3.5Liter VTEC Naturally Aspirated
Filter matches for the vehicle you selected:
Fram Model PH7317
Purolator Model L14610
Purolator Model PL14610
Mobil 1 does not recommend any of their own oil filters. Go figure
This was confirmed by some other members already.
I also went ahead and researched the recommended oil filters on the Mobil 1 site.
http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/Mo....aspx?option=2
The results are a bit surprising....
Current Vehicle:
Year: 2007
Make: Acura
Model: TL-S
Engine Type: 6cyl. 3.5Liter VTEC Naturally Aspirated
Filter matches for the vehicle you selected:
Fram Model PH7317
Purolator Model L14610
Purolator Model PL14610
Mobil 1 does not recommend any of their own oil filters. Go figure
08-02-2007, 01:44 AM
#211
Originally Posted by phambam
I also went ahead and researched the recommended oil filters on the Mobil 1 site.
http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/Mo....aspx?option=2
Mobil 1 does not recommend any of their own oil filters. Go figure
http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/Mo....aspx?option=2
Mobil 1 does not recommend any of their own oil filters. Go figure
Year: 1999
Make: Acura
Model: TL
Engine Type: 6cyl. 3.2Liter VTEC Naturally Aspirated
Filter matches for the vehicle you selected:
Mobil 1
Mobil 1 Model M1-104
Other options
Fram Model PH3593A
Purolator Model L14459
Purolator Model PL14459
08-02-2007, 10:16 PM
#213
the mobil and k&n feature many of the same internal parts but different case-
different o ring design- round vs flat on the mobil and different edge sealing method, different resin material sprayed on material to catch bad stuff,
plus the K&N has the 1 inch nut welded on the end for ease of removal when warm
for the same $ I like my K&N
different o ring design- round vs flat on the mobil and different edge sealing method, different resin material sprayed on material to catch bad stuff,
plus the K&N has the 1 inch nut welded on the end for ease of removal when warm
for the same $ I like my K&N
08-02-2007, 10:19 PM
#214
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by dnd2984
08-02-2007, 11:21 PM
#216
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by dnd2984
There are to many damn oils in Australia and Royal Purple is King 
errrrr ok, works for me
08-09-2007, 09:11 PM
#219
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by dnd2984
here is a review of filters...
08-09-2007, 09:14 PM
#220
I read early in this thread that the check engine light comes on at 7,500 since that is when you should change your oil. If you change your oil before that, does that 7,500 reset itself?
08-09-2007, 09:17 PM
#221
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by nollid
I read early in this thread that the check engine light comes on at 7,500 since that is when you should change your oil. If you change your oil before that, does that 7,500 reset itself?
you have to reset it every time it comes on or you change your oil
08-13-2007, 08:30 PM
#225
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I tried to change the oil on the TL for the first time on my own. I tried and I tried, but I could not get the bolt off. I had it done at the Honda dealer last time and they must have tightened the crap out of it because I used all my strength and could not even make it budge. I put the wrench on the bolt and pulled toward the passenger side tire but nothing. The thing that's even worse is that I just put seafoam in the engine and I did a little 10 min/10 mile drive. I was planning to change the oil right after that but that does not seem to be happening. I guess I will take it somewhere tomorrow to have it changed. Would there be any harm in driving 10 more miles with seafoam in the engine? I feel extremelly defeated right now.
08-13-2007, 08:38 PM
#226
Originally Posted by apar83
I tried to change the oil on the TL for the first time on my own. I tried and I tried, but I could not get the bolt off. I had it done at the Honda dealer last time and they must have tightened the crap out of it because I used all my strength and could not even make it budge. I put the wrench on the bolt and pulled toward the passenger side tire but nothing. The thing that's even worse is that I just put seafoam in the engine and I did a little 10 min/10 mile drive. I was planning to change the oil right after that but that does not seem to be happening. I guess I will take it somewhere tomorrow to have it changed. Would there be any harm in driving 10 more miles with seafoam in the engine? I feel extremelly defeated right now.
Same thing happen to me. I had to purchase a break bar. I bolt was on really tight to. Just get something long to leverage your self. I drove almost 1000 miles with seafoam. 1/3 can of seafoam and 5 qts of oil should be fine.
08-13-2007, 09:26 PM
#228
when you look at the bolt head on- its left turn or counter clockwise to loosen
so thats wrench turns down to the ground on the passenger side
a closed end/box end wrench and a hammer will usually remove overtight drain plugs
whack the end of the wrench with hammer- instant leverage!
29 ft lps is spec
Just wait till you try to remove the oil filter !!!!
dont worry about 10 miles on seafoam- the maker says you can drive 30 minutes and change oil
We are conservative on some things for overkill in safety
so thats wrench turns down to the ground on the passenger side
a closed end/box end wrench and a hammer will usually remove overtight drain plugs
whack the end of the wrench with hammer- instant leverage!
29 ft lps is spec
Just wait till you try to remove the oil filter !!!!
dont worry about 10 miles on seafoam- the maker says you can drive 30 minutes and change oil
We are conservative on some things for overkill in safety
08-13-2007, 10:09 PM
#230
Senior Moderator
First, what size wrench are you using? 3/8 or 1/2 inch?
Get a half inch wrench if your not using one.
It should never be on there that tight, it could strip out.
Get a half inch wrench if your not using one.
It should never be on there that tight, it could strip out.
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
when you look at the bolt head on- its left turn or counter clockwise to loosen
so thats wrench turns down to the ground on the passenger side
a closed end/box end wrench and a hammer will usually remove overtight drain plugs
whack the end of the wrench with hammer- instant leverage!
29 ft lps is spec
Just wait till you try to remove the oil filter !!!!
dont worry about 10 miles on seafoam- the maker says you can drive 30 minutes and change oil
We are conservative on some things for overkill in safety
so thats wrench turns down to the ground on the passenger side
a closed end/box end wrench and a hammer will usually remove overtight drain plugs
whack the end of the wrench with hammer- instant leverage!
29 ft lps is spec
Just wait till you try to remove the oil filter !!!!
dont worry about 10 miles on seafoam- the maker says you can drive 30 minutes and change oil
We are conservative on some things for overkill in safety
08-13-2007, 10:37 PM
#231
to clarify- fsttyms meant what size drive on the ratchet 3/8 -- 1/2 is the bad boy size
Thats why I say put the box end wrench on it and whack the wrench handle with the hammer- it will come loose! I prefer not to do the same trick to my ratchet
if you are on jackstands or ramps- its easy
On the ground- wow- thats tough to get leverage
remember- lefty loosie- when facing the bolt directly
so from the front- its wrench handle pointing to driver side and hit downwards
NOTE: Since the bolt and washer have been over torqued (29 foot pounds spec) go to the parts store and get a new one for less than 3 bucks- with washer!
Thats why I say put the box end wrench on it and whack the wrench handle with the hammer- it will come loose! I prefer not to do the same trick to my ratchet
if you are on jackstands or ramps- its easy
On the ground- wow- thats tough to get leverage
remember- lefty loosie- when facing the bolt directly
so from the front- its wrench handle pointing to driver side and hit downwards
NOTE: Since the bolt and washer have been over torqued (29 foot pounds spec) go to the parts store and get a new one for less than 3 bucks- with washer!
08-13-2007, 11:16 PM
#232
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Yea, I was using a 3/8 in ratchet. The brand is Great Neck, which I have used often and has worked pretty well. The car was on the ground, which made it hard to get leverage, but wasnt't impossbile (had to be clever). I'm thinking just taking it back to the Honda dealer can paying the $20 for the oil change and specifying to them that I want to tighten the bolt myself. I actually kind of want to ask the service manager there why they are not torquing the bolts to spec, which is clearly stated in the manual. I think that might be pretty interesting.
08-13-2007, 11:20 PM
#233
Originally Posted by apar83
Yea, I was using a 3/8 in ratchet. The brand is Great Neck, which I have used often and has worked pretty well. The car was on the ground, which made it hard to get leverage, but wasnt't impossbile (had to be clever). I'm thinking just taking it back to the Honda dealer can paying the $20 for the oil change and specifying to them that I want to tighten the bolt myself. I actually kind of want to ask the service manager there why they are not torquing the bolts to spec, which is clearly stated in the manual. I think that might be pretty interesting.
Good Luck!
Bob
08-14-2007, 11:40 PM
#234
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I was finally able to get the bolt off! I took the car to the quick lube down the street and they loosened it for me. The first guy that tried was able to make it budge. The second guy got it off after whacking the wrench a couple of times. I brought the car back and did the oil change at my house. I took 0104tl's advice and bought a new bolt. As you can see from the picture below, it has seen much better times. I got the new bolt from AutoZone for only 99 cents. Overall, the bolt is a little bit longer because it has more metal after the thread ends. The OEM bolt seems to have 8 threads and my new one only had 7. Could this be a potential problem? Also, it didn't come with a washer so I had to use an OEM Honda one I had. Do these aftermarket bolts not need washers? I’m so glad I was able to finally do it myself, for the most part at least.
08-15-2007, 01:57 AM
#235
dont sweat the thread its 14-15 mm long- and the unthreaded part is where the washer sits
they sell them with washers and without- guess which one cost just under 3 bucks vs 99 cents?
If you talk to the dealer Service MANAGER- which I would if they did the last change- and ask why the junior tech isn't equipped with a torque wrench since same kid rotates tires
Oooops! or is he just lazy? Better check the tire pressure too
Thats the kind of basic things that Acura surveys should knock points off for- improper repairs
Trust no one is my policy
Once, a jr. tech inflated tires to 45 psi becasue thats what it said as max on the tire AND if the customer wanted it lower thats easier for them to do than customer having to raise it!!
I said- what about setting it correctly instead????
they sell them with washers and without- guess which one cost just under 3 bucks vs 99 cents?
If you talk to the dealer Service MANAGER- which I would if they did the last change- and ask why the junior tech isn't equipped with a torque wrench since same kid rotates tires
Oooops! or is he just lazy? Better check the tire pressure too
Thats the kind of basic things that Acura surveys should knock points off for- improper repairs
Trust no one is my policy
Once, a jr. tech inflated tires to 45 psi becasue thats what it said as max on the tire AND if the customer wanted it lower thats easier for them to do than customer having to raise it!!
I said- what about setting it correctly instead????
08-20-2007, 07:50 PM
#236
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i have an 03 tl with about 48k miles about to change oil for second time.i always buy factory filter it costs about 17 bucks wich is not too bad,and this time ill be using 1030 castrol syntec .
08-21-2007, 12:17 PM
#239
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by 3rdrock
i have an 03 tl with about 48k miles about to change oil for second time.i always buy factory filter it costs about 17 bucks wich is not too bad,and this time ill be using 1030 castrol syntec .
08-21-2007, 12:31 PM
#240
One last time- OE parts are not always the best- aftermarket has many better oil and air filter choices
Same goes for our brakes
Same goes for our brakes