doing my own oil changes..
06-06-2007, 10:18 PM
#81
Senior Moderator
its blackstone labs. I run 10k on mine and my car idles all day, so your stop and go will be fine.
2 ton is fine but the lifting pad is small. I dislike those small lifting pads. Thats how the lifting points get bent over on our cars. try to find one thats larger
2 ton is fine but the lifting pad is small. I dislike those small lifting pads. Thats how the lifting points get bent over on our cars. try to find one thats larger
06-06-2007, 10:28 PM
#82
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
its blackstone labs. I run 10k on mine and my car idles all day, so your stop and go will be fine.
2 ton is fine but the lifting pad is small. I dislike those small lifting pads. Thats how the lifting points get bent over on our cars. try to find one thats larger
2 ton is fine but the lifting pad is small. I dislike those small lifting pads. Thats how the lifting points get bent over on our cars. try to find one thats larger
And I thought that turning the car on and off was worse for your oil than just letting it run. Maybe I will send the oil in at around 8-9K and see how it looks then.
Oh yea, ummm
06-07-2007, 12:35 AM
#83
Idleing and stop and go driving are very different things to the oil
Seafoam the engine and then oil change
My bad: The point of using a small wood block was to increase the surface area because its a small jack like many of us have, not the big guns like Kris pulls out!
I use ramps to change oil and my neighbor crawls under the car to place the jack for brake fluid flushes-
Its good to be the king!
Seafoam the engine and then oil change
My bad: The point of using a small wood block was to increase the surface area because its a small jack like many of us have, not the big guns like Kris pulls out!
I use ramps to change oil and my neighbor crawls under the car to place the jack for brake fluid flushes-
Its good to be the king!
06-07-2007, 09:33 AM
#85
Originally Posted by KSuchdeve
I just picked up 5 qts of Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w-30 Fully Synthetic and Mobil 1 Extended Performance filter. The oil says protection for 15K miles guaranteed. I deliver for my job so I do a lot of short trips and stop and go driving, so will it not last this long? Should I change at 10K or so?
Also, what jack point are you using? If I use the jack point right behind the front tire, then I can't get the jack stand underneath it because the jack is in the way. Someone said something about lifting it up from a spot just behind the front bumper, but I could not tell where they were talking about. Can anyone explain this jacking point further or have a pic from under the car that you can show me where it is?
Also, what jack point are you using? If I use the jack point right behind the front tire, then I can't get the jack stand underneath it because the jack is in the way. Someone said something about lifting it up from a spot just behind the front bumper, but I could not tell where they were talking about. Can anyone explain this jacking point further or have a pic from under the car that you can show me where it is?
I just have the ramps that I roll my car up on. I was lookin at the extended Mobil 1 but I just dont feel the yearly oil change
06-07-2007, 09:37 AM
#86
Originally Posted by KSuchdeve
What is the difference between the two kinds of driving and which one has more wear on the oil?
I did Seafoam right before I changed oil. Put it in crank case and let it run for 5 min, then drained.
I did Seafoam right before I changed oil. Put it in crank case and let it run for 5 min, then drained.
06-07-2007, 11:25 AM
#87
I don't know I just did what Kris said to do in the seafoamed the ol tl thread. When you put in the seafoam, it gets everything stirred up and you don't want to drive around a lot with all of this gunk stirred up in your oil.
Let it run for five minutes to get the seafoam circulated everywhere and then drain to get everything out. this is just what i read in that seafoam thread and id rather be safe than sorry. but you also could say leaving it in for only five minutes wouldn't be long enough.
Let it run for five minutes to get the seafoam circulated everywhere and then drain to get everything out. this is just what i read in that seafoam thread and id rather be safe than sorry. but you also could say leaving it in for only five minutes wouldn't be long enough.
06-07-2007, 12:05 PM
#88
Seafoam is solvent- I only run it at IDLE speed in the driveway before draining oil.
Note to Mobil 1 users
they changed formula to cheaper base
If you want the FULLY Synthetic (you do) the buy the HIGH MILEAGE - Mobil synthetic
or try Penzoil Platinum
Stop and Go driving causes constantly changing load and temp on the oil and the shearing and yada yada, actually www.penzoil.com has a great explanation of what oil goes thru on a daily basis
Note to Mobil 1 users
they changed formula to cheaper base
If you want the FULLY Synthetic (you do) the buy the HIGH MILEAGE - Mobil synthetic
or try Penzoil Platinum
Stop and Go driving causes constantly changing load and temp on the oil and the shearing and yada yada, actually www.penzoil.com has a great explanation of what oil goes thru on a daily basis
Hope I did not do any damage. But they again I changed my oil twice after that.
06-07-2007, 12:30 PM
#91
Dont sweat it- all is well! You are not the first to do this
At a certain point the solvent has dissolved and the oil filter is picking up the loose crud.
And dont forget to add a full can to 1/4 tank of gas to clean the fuel injector sprayers
At a certain point the solvent has dissolved and the oil filter is picking up the loose crud.
And dont forget to add a full can to 1/4 tank of gas to clean the fuel injector sprayers
06-07-2007, 12:31 PM
#92
Heavy duty ramps and jackstands?!?!?!
Better Overkill
than headline:
Local man killed working under car
Better Overkill
than headline:
Local man killed working under car
06-08-2007, 11:55 AM
#95
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I'm changing my oil tomorrow, I've been using GTX 5w-20 with a NAPA Gold oil filter for a while and been changing it every 3000 miles. After reading this thread I bought fully synth Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w-30, I'm sticking with the NAPA Gold filter. I'll also SeaFoam it before changing the oil, thanks for the info
06-08-2007, 02:17 PM
#96
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Idleing and stop and go driving are very different things to the oil
Seafoam the engine and then oil change
My bad: The point of using a small wood block was to increase the surface area because its a small jack like many of us have, not the big guns like Kris pulls out!
I use ramps to change oil and my neighbor crawls under the car to place the jack for brake fluid flushes-
Its good to be the king!
Seafoam the engine and then oil change
My bad: The point of using a small wood block was to increase the surface area because its a small jack like many of us have, not the big guns like Kris pulls out!
I use ramps to change oil and my neighbor crawls under the car to place the jack for brake fluid flushes-
Its good to be the king!
06-08-2007, 07:10 PM
#98
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Seafoam
I put Seafoam in the crank case and run the car for a 1/2 hour with moderate drive. Than change oil. Works fantastic.
I actually called them and spoke to someone from Seafoam and that's what they recommended, now just need to put in the vacuum line.
I actually called them and spoke to someone from Seafoam and that's what they recommended, now just need to put in the vacuum line.
Into Vacuum Line
06-08-2007, 07:45 PM
#100
Its easier than the 14 pages of pics and tips make it seem
Simply follow 1 vac line- disconnect- dip and remove from can
let engine rest 5 minutes
then the important part is the 4000 rpm fun run to heat the goop and blow it all out- use vtec numerous times
30 minures drive is direct from seafoam? Wow
And I thought it turned the oil black in 5- cant imagine driving with it
Simply follow 1 vac line- disconnect- dip and remove from can
let engine rest 5 minutes
then the important part is the 4000 rpm fun run to heat the goop and blow it all out- use vtec numerous times
30 minures drive is direct from seafoam? Wow
And I thought it turned the oil black in 5- cant imagine driving with it
06-08-2007, 07:53 PM
#101
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Its easier than the 14 pages of pics and tips make it seem
Simply follow 1 vac line- disconnect- dip and remove from can
let engine rest 5 minutes
then the important part is the 4000 rpm fun run to heat the goop and blow it all out- use vtec numerous times
30 minures drive is direct from seafoam? Wow
And I thought it turned the oil black in 5- cant imagine driving with it
Simply follow 1 vac line- disconnect- dip and remove from can
let engine rest 5 minutes
then the important part is the 4000 rpm fun run to heat the goop and blow it all out- use vtec numerous times
30 minures drive is direct from seafoam? Wow
And I thought it turned the oil black in 5- cant imagine driving with it
The vac line thing is really easy to do and you can hit the throttle cable to stop it from stalling, which it might if you suck it up too fast. Drive in SS mode so you can control where it shifts. Take a run on the freeway in 3rd gear, and hit vtec in 2nd on the way there.
06-20-2007, 04:44 PM
#103
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Just out of curiosity, aside from the obvious pride from doing something yourself and saving $10 or so, why change your oil yourself? The reason I ask is because of the added hassle of having to dispose of the oil properly. It seems like it would be worth letting someone else do it.
Side note, how often should we be checking our trans oil? What's that maintenance schedule like?
Side note, how often should we be checking our trans oil? What's that maintenance schedule like?
06-20-2007, 07:11 PM
#105
To use quality parts of my choosing- to do a proper inflation check of tires, to inspect the cv boots, to know the drain plug is exactly the right torque and not 40 lbs over limit!
All reasons to DIY the oil change
The simple act of driving to the local parts store and giving up the old oil is easy
Use the drain pan you bought or any plastic milk jug with screw cap works fine
Change trans fluid every 15k miles and you are set
Note trans fluid is checked with engine/trans warm
SHUT OFF engine- pull stick- clean- insert- remove and read
should be between the lines
All reasons to DIY the oil change
The simple act of driving to the local parts store and giving up the old oil is easy
Use the drain pan you bought or any plastic milk jug with screw cap works fine
Change trans fluid every 15k miles and you are set
Note trans fluid is checked with engine/trans warm
SHUT OFF engine- pull stick- clean- insert- remove and read
should be between the lines
06-20-2007, 08:00 PM
#106
Senior Moderator
Like others have said. To know the job was done RIGHT! And by me oil disposal is very easy. Most all autoparts stores take it for free. I have 2 5 gallon pails that i fill, and when full i take to my local municipal land fill for free disposal
06-21-2007, 01:21 PM
#109
Make sure to buy the extra quart!
You can find Redline at many parts stores for 8 bucks a qt
You can find Redline at many parts stores for 8 bucks a qt
06-21-2007, 03:27 PM
#111
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Dealer rep said that the maint schedule recommends the drain/fill for trans fluid every 60K miles. Is 15K overkill? (69K on an '03 TL-P with no trans problems. Knock on wood).
Regarding oil changes ... I live in a condo ... not too convenient to change my oil. You can bring in your own oil and filter and the dealer will use them and just charge labor/shop fees, which saves money and lets you choose your own oil/filter. If it were more convenient, I would change my own oil, as I did for many years, but these days, I go to the dealership on a weekday morning and work from there while they do everything. I'm not rich, but I have more money than I do time these days, so that is what suits me best.
Regarding oil changes ... I live in a condo ... not too convenient to change my oil. You can bring in your own oil and filter and the dealer will use them and just charge labor/shop fees, which saves money and lets you choose your own oil/filter. If it were more convenient, I would change my own oil, as I did for many years, but these days, I go to the dealership on a weekday morning and work from there while they do everything. I'm not rich, but I have more money than I do time these days, so that is what suits me best.
06-21-2007, 04:20 PM
#112
Originally Posted by sb65
Dealer rep said that the maint schedule recommends the drain/fill for trans fluid every 60K miles. Is 15K overkill? (69K on an '03 TL-P with no trans problems. Knock on wood).
Regarding oil changes ... I live in a condo ... not too convenient to change my oil. You can bring in your own oil and filter and the dealer will use them and just charge labor/shop fees, which saves money and lets you choose your own oil/filter. If it were more convenient, I would change my own oil, as I did for many years, but these days, I go to the dealership on a weekday morning and work from there while they do everything. I'm not rich, but I have more money than I do time these days, so that is what suits me best.
Regarding oil changes ... I live in a condo ... not too convenient to change my oil. You can bring in your own oil and filter and the dealer will use them and just charge labor/shop fees, which saves money and lets you choose your own oil/filter. If it were more convenient, I would change my own oil, as I did for many years, but these days, I go to the dealership on a weekday morning and work from there while they do everything. I'm not rich, but I have more money than I do time these days, so that is what suits me best.
I live in a condo to. I bought the ramps, and that makes the job a lot easier i think. I just started doing my own oil changes and it just feels better knowing I did it right.
Umm gettin tranny fluid changed at 15k is overkill
06-21-2007, 04:54 PM
#113
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quick question for kris, does that 7500 run for normal oil as well, or is it mainly for synthetic? Cuz I hear that its 5k for synthetic and 3k for regular oil, so would it actually be 7500 syn/5000 norm?
06-21-2007, 10:30 PM
#114
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by dnd2984
I think I am just gonna go with Royal Purple and Mobil1 mix next oil change,
06-21-2007, 10:32 PM
#115
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by mmmmmbarb
quick question for kris, does that 7500 run for normal oil as well, or is it mainly for synthetic? Cuz I hear that its 5k for synthetic and 3k for regular oil, so would it actually be 7500 syn/5000 norm?
06-21-2007, 10:48 PM
#116
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Why mix. Just stick with 1 brand
Is the Extended Performance Mobil1 any better than Regular Mobil1. The reason I ask is regardless I will change it at 5k miles. I know the extended is suppose to last 1yr/15k miles
06-21-2007, 10:57 PM
#117
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by dnd2984
Is the Extended Performance Mobil1 any better than Regular Mobil1. The reason I ask is regardless I will change it at 5k miles. I know the extended is suppose to last 1yr/15k miles
But The extended is better.
06-22-2007, 12:31 AM
#118
Mobil changed its formula and names
Mobil1 now lower grade
High Mileage is the old Mobil 1- the good fully synthetic stuff
READ all labels carefully for the words ~Fully Synthetic~
I would not mix my expensive oils- they are very special formula to each maker
Dino oils mixed together- whatever in an emergency!
If your TL is losing or burning that much- you have a real problem somewhere
If you have a shop willing to use your parts and its convenient- more power to you!
For the average member who really likes tinkering with their car- oil change is easy
You can teach the neighbor kid his first car skill too!
For the trans fluid- Its just oil and I use the car in a spirited manner, so why not change it along with other fluids from time to time.
I also believe in new coolant and hoses well before 105 and brake fluid flush every year
The maitenance interval schedule has most of us -based on driving style and living on EARTH- on the Severe schedule- check out the changes there!!
Mobil1 now lower grade
High Mileage is the old Mobil 1- the good fully synthetic stuff
READ all labels carefully for the words ~Fully Synthetic~
I would not mix my expensive oils- they are very special formula to each maker
Dino oils mixed together- whatever in an emergency!
If your TL is losing or burning that much- you have a real problem somewhere
If you have a shop willing to use your parts and its convenient- more power to you!
For the average member who really likes tinkering with their car- oil change is easy
You can teach the neighbor kid his first car skill too!
For the trans fluid- Its just oil and I use the car in a spirited manner, so why not change it along with other fluids from time to time.
I also believe in new coolant and hoses well before 105 and brake fluid flush every year
The maitenance interval schedule has most of us -based on driving style and living on EARTH- on the Severe schedule- check out the changes there!!
06-22-2007, 08:11 AM
#119
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Mobil changed its formula and names
Mobil1 now lower grade
High Mileage is the old Mobil 1- the good fully synthetic stuff
READ all labels carefully for the words ~Fully Synthetic~
I would not mix my expensive oils- they are very special formula to each maker
Dino oils mixed together- whatever in an emergency!
If your TL is losing or burning that much- you have a real problem somewhere
If you have a shop willing to use your parts and its convenient- more power to you!
For the average member who really likes tinkering with their car- oil change is easy
You can teach the neighbor kid his first car skill too!
For the trans fluid- Its just oil and I use the car in a spirited manner, so why not change it along with other fluids from time to time.
I also believe in new coolant and hoses well before 105 and brake fluid flush every year
The maitenance interval schedule has most of us -based on driving style and living on EARTH- on the Severe schedule- check out the changes there!!
Mobil1 now lower grade
High Mileage is the old Mobil 1- the good fully synthetic stuff
READ all labels carefully for the words ~Fully Synthetic~
I would not mix my expensive oils- they are very special formula to each maker
Dino oils mixed together- whatever in an emergency!
If your TL is losing or burning that much- you have a real problem somewhere
If you have a shop willing to use your parts and its convenient- more power to you!
For the average member who really likes tinkering with their car- oil change is easy
You can teach the neighbor kid his first car skill too!
For the trans fluid- Its just oil and I use the car in a spirited manner, so why not change it along with other fluids from time to time.
I also believe in new coolant and hoses well before 105 and brake fluid flush every year
The maitenance interval schedule has most of us -based on driving style and living on EARTH- on the Severe schedule- check out the changes there!!
oOOOO U Just reminded me about my brake fluid. need to get that done soon.