fsttyms1

Why not??So it lets something .0005 micron more than the best filter??? nothing that small is going to do any sizable damage anyway..

<---- living proof that they work and work well. Just look at my motor (plus the other 3 hondas that have had 500k in total mileage with nothing but frams)


(only i wont use penzoil)

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

Maybe I will stick to mobil1 and fram that I started off with.

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

Screw making the engine last, I want my tranny to last. I just graduated college and dont really want to spend cash on a tranny in the next 2 years.

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

Since I am anal I like to change my oil ever 4 to 5k. I just talked to Mobil and said there will be no additional benefits from using EP Mobil1 for those kinds of interval. Casue I was no way going to wait till 15k.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Yea, I have the M1 EP oil and filter in right now. I don't know when I should change it, though. I deliver and make a lot of short trips 30 hours a week and short trips when I drive to school and wherever else. The most I drive at once will be like 25 miles, which is completely across town.

fsttyms1

Why not? Even the manual recommends 7500 intervals. You guys (not just you) really need to get that stupid 3k need to change oil crap out of your heads. Our motors and oil arent 1950s technology. Do some testing at your nest oil change to get an idea of how much oil life is left and what condition is left.

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

Besides milleage what are indicators oil needs to be changed. I mean at 5k my oil is black.

fsttyms1

There arent any. Color doesnt mean any thing. If it wasnt getting dark id be worried. That means the oil isnt doing its job picking up the contaminants. Only true way is to have it tested. Get a sample kit and send it in for testing.

01tl4tl

www.blackstone-labs.com

they send you a free test sample kit, you drain a little oil into it or change the filter
now at 5k and sample from the filter or catch a sample when changing

Send it to them and get a full analysis for 23$- extra $10 and they do a life remaining test based on the additives remaining strength- thats what wears out

As Kris said- it should be getting dark- just do a seafoam in crankcase before next oil change

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

If you are doing the mail-in oil test, you should make sure you get a sample of your oil before you Seafoam the crankcase so it won't have all the stuff in it that Seafoam breaks up

Just get a small sample (whatever is required from Blackstone Labs) then tighten back the plug and run the Seafoam through then drain the rest.

fsttyms1

x2

mmmmmbarb

iTrader: (1)

I was just wondering if I paid too much for my oil/filter?
I paid 12 for a K&N filter and 35 for 5 quarts of 10w-30 Royal Purple oil. Seems a little much, but all the other alternatives seemed similar. Are there good places to shop online?

Also, what do I need to know about doing oilchanges (my first one)

I think its just:
Unscrew the pan and drain the oil. (Probably need to jack it)
Put a bag on over the filter and unscrew (turn wheel to get at it.)
Put a little oil into the new filter and screw it back on, a little past tight.
Put the screw back on and fill the oil back into the crankcase.

I'm also switching from normal to synthetic, so I read that this might burn off oil or something? So I was thinking of adding all 5 quarts. That good enough? Anything else that I need to know about oil changes?

01tl4tl

I failed to be clear on the oil sample:

Obtain sample first from cold engine- note that on the paper you fill out for the sample
it only needs 4 ounces- full instructions online and included with test kit
Then add seafoam and run at idle till bored then drain fully and refill

Switching to synthetic doesnt burn more oil- most of us put in the whole 5 anyway-
dont sweat it- wont hurt
Use seafoam before switching for best results

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Before you do this, take off the cap from the crank case fill to help everything drain.

onsknth

No need to do so... The crankcase is already vented with the cap on.

russianDude

I find Walmart to be the best place to buy Mobil 1.
They have 5w30 Mobil 1 5qt for $22, and Mobil 1 5w30 EP 5qt for $28
M1 oil filter $12

It cost me about $50 (including labor), and I change my oil once a year, which happens to be around 6000K miles.

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

Advance Auto parts is having a sale on Mobil 1 filters. 8.88, and people with 4cyls they also have the 4 qt jug for 17.88.

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

anyone using Valvoline Synpower? Also what about oil shelf life, does it expire????

01tl4tl

Oil in a factory sealed capped container should last a long time

Whats the real question here
Do you have several 1/2 qts saved over 5 years- toss them in the hazmat pickup

Side note- toss brake fluid that was opened more than 6 months ago and has some left in the bottle- it sucks moisture from the air and ruins fluid- and brakes

fsttyms1

I buy new fluid every time u need to use it.

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

well I got Valvoline 4 qts for 9 bucks thats why I asked I wonder how long it was on the shelf for. And Alos Synpower is buy one get one free to.

apar83

I have about 5 quarts of oil that I purchased a couple months ago. I had to open them to get the little ring to send in a rebate. Do you think it would be okay to still use the oil? I closed them back up in less than 30 seconds as tight as I could.

senixon

Mobil 1 Synthetic for me... + Purolator PureOne filter

Costco usually has a case (6pk) for $30 -- but I have yet to see 5W-20... I've been using 5-30 (don't think that in Seattle's climate 20 vs 30 weight makes a big diff.)

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

$22 at walmart my friend for the 5 qt

01tl4tl

apar

you're ok - use the oil

the engine temp burns off moisture in the oil on a regular basis

the brake fluid does have the same situation

derrick

Sad to think I just went to Detroit (Murray's Autoparts) and bought a Mobil1 filter (M-104) for $10.99 and 5W20 Mobil1 oil (1 quart) bottles for $6.99 each. I used to buy the Costco 6 pack of 5W30 for $30 but thought I will stretch out changes to every 9-12 months, depending on how many miles I drive, so I might as well get the lighter oil to get a wee bit better fuel economy ... I should have read this thread first.

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

Damn!^^^^

senixon

You won't get me in that store if there are alternatives! Gives me headaches just driving by it. $.60 savings is not worth it to me.

Costco is a monthly run to stock up the fridge and I just get some every time I'm out.

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

I know what u mean. Walmart is not the best place to shop.



Ok Qucik question who uses Amsoil? I was looking at the filters and oil. There filter are very similiar to the Mobil1s.
http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/eao.aspx

I also found a test done by prostreet on syn oil

http://my.prostreetonline.com/t2540.htm

phambam

My car is still far from an oil change. About 2,100 right now. Just curious though, which oil filter seems to work the best for you?

From the looks of things, looks like it's purely based on opinion and most of them do a decent job of what an oil filter is meant to do....

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

A lot of it is opinion, 3 month ago I did not know anything about oil or filters. For the money Fram extra guard works great and runs $5. I am currently using mobil 1. I bought 2 mobil 1(m104) last time Iwas at Adavance Auto becasue they where on special. If there is a Napa near by check out there Napa Gold filters.

senixon

Oil filters and the 'ol tranny is probably the most talked about topics on this forum, but here are my

I use Purolator PureOne filters -- really good filter and only cost $6.

Also considered a good filters: Purolator, WIX (aka NAPA Gold), Bosch, Honda OEM... all those are right around $5-6

Then there are others: K&N, Mobile 1 and other that run close to $10, but truth be told they are not all that better then the Napa Gold aka WIX or other commonplace filters out there--You're paying for a shiny label in my opinion. Also there are only a handful of filter manufacturers here in US so you maybe getting the same filter for money with a shiny label.

Then there is FRAM -- this brand in my opinion is of poor construction, prone to failure. I think their filtration abilities are up to the par, but from personal experience and from plenty of rants from others this filter may cost you an engine one day.

There is a study that compares filters and their design from an engineering school -- don't take it as gospel but definitely insightful and covers all the basics of a good filter design.

Link to study -->

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

Since I have been oil crazy lately I just talked to a tech dude at Amsoil. He rec. going with 0w30 for my TL. With there filter because there filter 98.7% efficent at 15 microns(80 microns is hair thickness).

They also noted that 0w30 flows better at startup.

I am thinking about givine Amsoil a chance but just cant think of spending $50 on oil and filter.

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

Take that back its $61.75 for 5 quarts of 0w30 and filter.

fsttyms1

Exactly that little details that people read into too much.

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

Did I lil more reading. You dont need to get a $16 amsoil filter when the $5 Purelator Pure one does the same job.

01tl4tl

I thought some $$$ filters went to 5 microns ??
Spend a little more on the filter that keeps bad stuff out of the oil
change filter halfway on long oil runs for safety
Buy whatever you want- it doesnt seem to matter- kris ran fram for 200k no probs

If your car wont start up because of 5 wt- you have a problem beyond oil

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

http://www.rpmoil.com/index.php?main...index&cPath=14

fsttyms1

were talking microns here guys. for us standard filters will do the job just fine.

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

I still do not believe a $5 filter is good for my car I am gettin the $175