doing my own oil changes..

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Old 07-22-2007, 02:02 AM
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Originally Posted by dnd2984
has anyone tried Mobil 5000?
Yeah I was wondering the same thing. I usually just buy whatever dino oil is good and is on sale. Been liking GTX lately. I saw the mobil 5000 on sale at Murray's for $1.69/qt and thought if it was any good, since my oil change is coming up soon. Anyone to chime in on this?
Old 07-22-2007, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by mpg2034
Yeah I was wondering the same thing. I usually just buy whatever dino oil is good and is on sale. Been liking GTX lately. I saw the mobil 5000 on sale at Murray's for $1.69/qt and thought if it was any good, since my oil change is coming up soon. Anyone to chime in on this?
I have it my crankcase right now... I've always used GTX in the past (15 years) but switched because of the lengthened intervals on the Acura. I don't know if it is any better just yet but figgured there's got to be something different otherwise everyone would call their oil 5000?
Old 07-22-2007, 11:36 AM
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I ran it once because of the extra cleaning agents in it- then ran Seafoam in the crankcase and switched to Penzoil Platinum Fully Synthetic


My car deserves the best I can find- not the cheapest- thats the OE spec!!!
Old 07-22-2007, 03:05 PM
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Couple of my roommates friends need a oil change

I will be using Mobil 5000 for there cars.

And Tom you said Mobil 1 High Millage is the same thing as the good Mobil 1 stuff correct and also its only availble in 10w30 is that fine.
Old 07-22-2007, 03:30 PM
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for the summer I wouldnt be overly concerned about the 10 instead of 5- that number only comes into play at super cold temps- the 30 is measured viscosity at 100 C or 212 american degrees- normal engine temps

~to the best of my knowledge~ - the high mileage mobil is the old good stuff mobil1

I was never a penzoil fan but the Platinum fully synthetic took the awards in tech achievement at the 04 SEMA show and is in use by Roush and many other race teams

5000 miles on mine and a sample enroute to Blackstone-labs.com to see how much life left.
Old 07-22-2007, 05:19 PM
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Update us on the Blackstone sample.
Old 07-23-2007, 12:37 PM
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So I changed oil in my parents suburban yesterday. Let the engine run for 5 minutes and drained the oil. I saw signs of sludge but nothing to bad. Then I took the filter off and HOLY Moly the filter was filled with sludge. Also in the last 5 month they only put on 2k miles. The suburban mostly is used on short trips around town.

I filled her up with Valvoline Maxlife and Fram filter.
Old 07-23-2007, 01:12 PM
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What are the benifits of using "the best" oil out there? Short term and long term?
Old 07-23-2007, 02:44 PM
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Better oil provides better lube= less friction= TL will last longer.
Old 07-23-2007, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by dnd2984
So I changed oil in my parents suburban yesterday. Let the engine run for 5 minutes and drained the oil. I saw signs of sludge but nothing to bad. Then I took the filter off and HOLY Moly the filter was filled with sludge. Also in the last 5 month they only put on 2k miles. The suburban mostly is used on short trips around town.

I filled her up with Valvoline Maxlife and Fram filter.
Thats when i would go out, buy another filter buy the cheapest oil i could and get a can of seafoam just for the crankcase and let it idle with that in it for 10-15 min then redrain and put the good oil and filter on
Old 07-23-2007, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Thats when i would go out, buy another filter buy the cheapest oil i could and get a can of seafoam just for the crankcase and let it idle with that in it for 10-15 min then redrain and put the good oil and filter on

I did, My bro went out and got me some cheap stuff along with seafoam. Cant beat the quailty of Valuecraft oil
Old 07-23-2007, 03:58 PM
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Old 07-24-2007, 06:19 PM
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What way do you turn the old filter to remove it? How should you tighten the new oil filter? How tight should it be?
Old 07-24-2007, 06:22 PM
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counter clockwise. hand tight plus a quarter turn
Old 07-24-2007, 06:41 PM
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Always put some oil in the new filter and a little on its o ring and threads before installing.
prefilling eliminates the dry start condition while it fills then sends oil to the engine,
prevent that!!

If a shop did it last time- you will know what too tight means for the oil filter and drain plug!

Turning the wheel gives more access to the filter as well

After refilling oil- start car- check for oil pressure, check drain plug and filter for leaks
stop engine and recheck oil level
I know it seems basic, but a member here took car to dealer and they forgot to add oil-
on an oil change service! pop went the motor!!!
Old 07-25-2007, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by dnd2984
sludge = The suburban mostly is used on short trips around town.
There's your answer for eliminating sludge, especially if the weather has changed (cold to hot/hot to cold)... Short trips do not allow the engine to boil condensation from the oil and water is what creates the sludge. At least once a week the engine needs to be run in excess of an hour to keep it "dry."
Old 07-26-2007, 01:09 AM
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Hey guys...When you do oil changes, do you use rhino ramps or don't use anything? I bought the rhino ramps and was planning to do oil change and the tranny fluid drain 3x3 method tomorrow. But I was worried about when the car is on the ramps, does the oil (engine and/or tranny oil) have a hard time draining?
Old 07-26-2007, 01:12 AM
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Hey guys...When you do oil changes, do you use rhino ramps or don't use anything? I bought the rhino ramps and was planning to do oil change and the tranny fluid drain 3x3 method tomorrow. But I was worried about when the car is on the ramps, does the oil (engine and tranny oil) have a hard time draining out? I had this sudden notion that the car should be on flat surface for drain engine and tranny oil??
Old 07-26-2007, 02:04 AM
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The drain plugs are in the back of the units- no prob with the ramps
have a spotter help you on them and make sure to put a block of wood behind the rear tire so car cant roll off backwards

dont be alarmed when metal is found on trans drain plug- its magnetic for a reason
Old 07-26-2007, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by mpg2034
Hey guys...When you do oil changes, do you use rhino ramps or don't use anything? I bought the rhino ramps and was planning to do oil change and the tranny fluid drain 3x3 method tomorrow. But I was worried about when the car is on the ramps, does the oil (engine and/or tranny oil) have a hard time draining?

I have been using Rhino ramps. They are great and very strong. I have left my car on the ramps for couple of hours and no issues.
Old 07-26-2007, 08:40 AM
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Kris I take it you are a big Batman fan.
Old 07-26-2007, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by dnd2984
Kris I take it you are a big Batman fan.
Who isn't?? When I was little, I lost count of how many times I watched the first Batman movie, after the first 100 times.

BTW, just last week, me and some friends were having a drunken conversation. And the topic of which super hero would outbeat all other super heros came up. We came to the conclusion that Batman would be victorious. =p
Old 07-26-2007, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by mpg2034
Who isn't?? When I was little, I lost count of how many times I watched the first Batman movie, after the first 100 times.

BTW, just last week, me and some friends were having a drunken conversation. And the topic of which super hero would outbeat all other super heros came up. We came to the conclusion that Batman would be victorious. =p

Where u a fan of the cartoon show on WB. Trust me I am a huge batman fan.
Old 07-26-2007, 09:36 AM
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Yeah! I watched anything and everything with Batman. When they were shooting Batman begins here in downtown Chicago, I could watch it from my condo since I'm on 43rd floor. That was a dream come true.
Old 07-26-2007, 10:29 AM
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Nice!

Also anyone using purelator pureone filters? I think I am going to be using those on all the oil changes I will be doing. Or is the Mobil 1 filter worth an extra $5
Old 07-26-2007, 10:39 AM
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Spend the money and get the K&N or the Mobil filter- both nearly identical innards and $
10 bucks on a crucial part of the system is cheap insurance
The oil is the engines blood- the filter is the Lymph nodes- capture bad stuff

Go big spend 6 more dollars and Seafoam the crankcase- you will be amazed at what was clogging the oil passageways and spraybars- half a can in the gas tank half in the oil thru the cap will fix you right up
Add to oil 5-15 minutes before change- run at idle
Old 07-26-2007, 01:54 PM
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I might as well buy the gallon of seafoam for $37.00
Old 07-26-2007, 02:37 PM
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You found GALLONS of seafoam !!! (insert homer simpson donut drool here)

its 8 pints to a gallon right? thats a 12 dollar savings

I got my neighbors hooked on the stuff too~
Old 07-26-2007, 02:43 PM
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Yea its on sale at Adavane Auto. $37.88
Old 07-26-2007, 02:43 PM
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advance*
Old 07-26-2007, 09:33 PM
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So i just got a 5qt jug of mobil 1 at wally world, and it says fully synthetic on the top of the jug, does that mean its the old formula. From what i've heard on this thread and others, the new mobil 1 formula isn't fully synthetic.
Old 07-26-2007, 11:22 PM
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if it says FULLY- its the right stuff as far as being a pure synthetic

I believe the correct way to explain it is they changed formulas to lower grade base oil

For the old recipe- buy mobil1 high mileage
Old 07-26-2007, 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
You found GALLONS of seafoam !!! (insert homer simpson donut drool here)

its 8 pints to a gallon right? thats a 12 dollar savings

I got my neighbors hooked on the stuff too~
: drool:
Old 07-27-2007, 09:32 AM
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Just out of curosity does anyone use oil additives?
Old 07-27-2007, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
if it says FULLY- its the right stuff as far as being a pure synthetic

I believe the correct way to explain it is they changed formulas to lower grade base oil

For the old recipe- buy mobil1 high mileage
Honestly, i think you-no offense (and others) read WAY too much into the small details. Same goes with oil filters. Ive run standard Dino oil to 10k and had usable TBN left. I seriously doubt that any change in formula is going to hurt the oil for the standard driver. Im still running 10k+ intervals on teh M1 and my last lab results weren't any different than before (and compared to a year ago with a different motor almost identical)

Oh and ive used nothing but the little orange Fram filter with the exception of buying the M1 filter 3 or so times and we all know the condition of my last motor.

But thats all just my
Old 07-27-2007, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by dnd2984
Just out of curosity does anyone use oil additives?
No. you shouldnt have to either if your using a quality oil and have maintained your motor
Old 07-27-2007, 10:23 AM
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i use mobile 1 5w-30 with mobile 1 filter. let me know the next time you're working on the tl and i'll come help out
Old 07-27-2007, 11:22 AM
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damn kris I am suprised that you use the base fram filter
Old 07-27-2007, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by godfather2
i use mobile 1 5w-30 with mobile 1 filter. let me know the next time you're working on the tl and i'll come help out

Defiently I will be moving end of august so wont be workin on the car for quite some time. Dont really have anything to do right now. I think.
Old 07-27-2007, 11:49 AM
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The EPA required a change that removed certain metals and unknowns from the oils to prevent cat converter damage.....
So that is the real change in the formula AND some brands have gone to a cheaper base oil in the formula to save money

I want my engine to last like Kris'- so I am using what I feel is appropraite for that.


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