dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

Ok I think I will stop by Walmart after work and pick up a breaker bar

fsttyms1

the whole 3k crap has been burned into peoples mids and isnt necessary like it used to be. Motors and oil are built much much better than before. I think the guys building the motors know more than the oilchange places and dealer who are trying to make a buck. I was on 8-10k intervals on regular dino oil for the first 100k miles, then went to 10-15k intervals on syn. That motor ran better than the day i got it, didnt use a drop of oil and the compression was at factory spec on all 6 cyl. Infact teh original cross hatching is still visible in the cylinder walls

Seriously, it cant be on there that tight. When trying to remove it, the wrench should be pulled toward the passenger side tire. Use a half inch wrench, and dont be afraid to put some muscle into it.

fsttyms1

Well if your afraid, try having the oil tested. blackstone labs will send you a free oil test kit in the mail, fill it up, send it to them pay 20 bucks and within a week you will have results. do it a few times and compare. I do it, and found that the guys building the motors know more about the motor and what it can do than the places trying to sell you on 3k crap. Why not test it at 5k like you do then run the next batch to 7500 and have it changed and tested. see how the results compare.

Oh and my car idles all day and i still run double and triple your intervals.

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

014tl said move the bolt towards the driverside?

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

I must admit I am still confused on what oil to use. I want to buy Royal Purple but I really dont think $6.4 a quart is worth it.

fsttyms1

From the front of the car, slide under the car head under feet out. Head up facing the drain plug you place the wrench on it and it will be going counter clockwise. You will be pulling the wrench towards the passenger side tire. Honestly any one doing DIY stuff (and im not picking on you) should know what way is tighten and loosen with the wrench before even placing it on a bolt.

Now as to which oil to use. They are all good. RP, Amsoil, M1. Amsoil and RP seem to be better now than M1 but honestly, Are you going to expect some type of difference ?? You will be gaining far better protection than you were getting before. Its not something that if picked wrong is going to make your motor not last as long. Especially coming from getting your oil changed at a quick lube place where they use bulk oil

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

I know how to loosen a bolt I was just wondering why one said driverside and other said passenger side.

TLMugen

It 's because it depends on where you stand when you're looking at the car!... DUH!

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

slavver01

iTrader: (3)

lol wow this is getting funny. but seriously, i did my first oil change a week or two ago, and you feel so much better knowing you dont have to rely on those damn shops! as for taking off the bolt, like everyone said, make sure its right direction and put some muscle into it. my bolt was hard to remove, but the oil filter was easy. just make sure you keep a cardboard box or something below ya just in case.

as for oil and filter, i used the penzoil platinum, the one 01tl4tl kept mentioning. filter i used a bosch one. i really didnt have any problems taking off the old one, and i figured the only advantage of the k&N seemed to be the lug nut in the middle. why pay an extra 6 bucks for that tho lol. im expecting to go bout 10k or so b4 another oil change.

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

Right down the street from the office where I work is a private auto shop. Went there because I knew they where having a oil change sale.

Went with Kendall Syn blend 10w 30 with a Wix filter, and added a can of BG MOA, for $25. Best part I actually say them do everything so I know it was done right. For some strange reason the engine does seem smoother. This is the BG stuff http://www.bgprod.com/blendr/BGMOA.html

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

so after all of this, you took it somewhere
it running smoother is just in your head

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

The only reason I took it was it was such a good deal. I still have the OIl and stuff I will use the Oil on our RSX

EOBrien

....not to mention the $25 snake oil....

Costco

on the Wix filter. I've read a little about Kendall oils, and they're supposed to be pretty good also. Wix filters are supposed to be among the best.

Mobil 1 isn't bad at all. Its a great quality Group IV oil. Go to bobistheoilguy.com to find out more. The only knock on M 1 is that its waaaay too overpriced, I mean the cost for all those marketing dollars has to go somewhere.

I don't mean to disagree with you Kris, and I don't at all, but I think the main reason why the 3,000/5,000 OCI are recommended is because the oil gets contaminated and the additives break down. The oil is still great - its just filled with impurities like sulfur, water, dirt & other particles. But the additives that set apart one oil from the next are usually used up by the time 7,500 comes around, or at least that's what I have learned.

Me personally I now stick with 5,000 mi. oil changes with synthetic. 3,000 if its dino oil (non-synthetic) for the beater. If you do OCI at 3,000 miles you're better off sticking with non-synthetic.

fsttyms1

Have it tested and see what condition its in! Then you will get a idea of what is found in the oil and the condition of it. Its cheap and gives you a good sense of what condition the oil and your motor are in.
The oil changes recommended at 3k are more of a oil marketing thing than safety for your motor.

Also cant deny the real world results with my last motor. It easily would have surpassed 400k+ with my maint schedule. Im just sick of hearing 3k I guess im biased. Cars arent made any where near the way they used to be, there is far less contamination and breakdown, plus with many manufacturers upping the service to 7500, 10k even 15, i think id trust them the most since they are the ones designing the motor

Gfaze

This is proof that RP oil has been proven to be a superior product. I imagine if you Royal Purple oil you could find some more reviews. Here's a short one.

Hot Rod Magazine Endorses Royal Purple

“It occurred to us that we've yet to run a test with Royal Purple® oil that didn't result in a power gain-it might be a marginal gain (as with our little Acura Integra), but it's a gain. We've also torn down some of our dyno engines that have been seriously abused, but with Royal P in the pan, the bearings have looked new. So consider this an approval of the company's line of synthetic lubricants with Synerlec®. We also like the spray lubricant, and while we can't document any improvements thanks to synthetic wheel-bearing grease, it makes us feel like we're doing the right thing when we pack bearings with that stuff, too.”

-David Freiburger, Hot Rod magazine

I understand that many people swear by Mobil 1 as well as some other brands but I think that there are other products that perform just as well or better. I've gotten some feedback from a few performance shops in my area and they're all impressed with RP. I'm not criticizing the other brands, just stating my opinion that this oil works too. I read that you can use a 12K mile/1 year interval when using this oil. I'll probably start going to the 7500 mile interval if RP can go 12K miles.

Gfaze

yeah and they also designed the transmission and we all know how that went.

fsttyms1

Yea and how many honda engines do you see failing. Simple proof is to get your oil analyzed. Its cheaper than a oil change!

myTaLizaS3.2

ahh man, i got Mobile 1 5w-20 yesterday. Is that fine? What's the rating for anyways?

fsttyms1

Thats just fine. Run what the car calls for. Thicker isnt better. Those Numbers are the weight of the oil

myTaLizaS3.2

ahh, i see. interesting. So I got 5qts of the Mobile 1 5w-20, and a mobile 1 oil filter. How often do you think I should change my oil using Mobile 1?

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

some Oil reviews I found..

http://www.rateitall.com/t-97-motor-oil-brands.aspx

fsttyms1

All depends on your driving. Lots of short drives? lots of stop and go? no hwy? 5k to 7500. all hwy, no city etc.. 7500-10k.

AcuraTLowner

How about changing the tranny fluid every 5000-7500????

fsttyms1

A waste. I did that on one of my trans and it lasted the least amount of time of the 5 failures i had

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

I got 400 miles to the tank for the first time!!!! I usually get 325 before the light comes on....Can this be because of the oil??

Bob_F

No. There's absolutely no way such a large increase in fuel economy could be caused by an oil type change. (Unless, of course, you were previously running Joe's Special Blend Tar Pit Oil with Gravel Bits.)

Bob

AcuraTLowner

I was kinda kidding--- And almost fell out of my seat when I read your response!!

Thats like having 100% new trans oil 100% of the time, & she still went (the quickest at that!!) Apparently, the problem is not a contaminent issue!!!

cjde2006

Bob F

fsttyms1

Correct, the problem doesnt lie in the fluid at all. Its a part problem and a lack of fluid able to get to the part. That is also why a tranny cooler does nothing for it, nor does a better fluid work

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

Would a napa gold filter and royal purple be good for 10k

fsttyms1

oil will be. not sure the filter. Just get any filter you want and then half way thru the interval remove the filter and screw a new one on. the only oil you will loose is the oil in the filter. simply top off and continue driving. Also before switching to a 10k interval you should probably have run full synthetic thru atleast one time and have it tested at drain to see the condition of it. 7500 would be a good way to start, then after testing start raising the interval.

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

change the oil from kendall to Mobil 1 and Fram extended guard filter .

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

I just picked up 5 qts of Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w-30 Fully Synthetic and Mobil 1 Extended Performance filter. The oil says protection for 15K miles guaranteed. I deliver for my job so I do a lot of short trips and stop and go driving, so will it not last this long? Should I change at 10K or so?

Also, what jack point are you using? If I use the jack point right behind the front tire, then I can't get the jack stand underneath it because the jack is in the way. Someone said something about lifting it up from a spot just behind the front bumper, but I could not tell where they were talking about. Can anyone explain this jacking point further or have a pic from under the car that you can show me where it is?

fsttyms1

Look directly in the center of the car from the front. Under the car where the black subframe is you will see a spot behind where the lower splashshield ends there is a spot that dips down. That is the center lift point

01tl4tl

Advertising is based on lab conditions and most of us drive on earth- big differace!
Stop and go driving is a killer on oil
With synthetics- most of us are changing at 7500 miles
You can have a oil analysis done at 5000 miles for 20 bucks and it will say exactly whats up with the oil- only takes a little sample- not drain whole thing
Using seafoam to clean internals before change will help a lot too

01tl4tl

A small block of wood on top of your floorjack will protect the subframe lift point
Ramps make oil change a snap
Turning the wheel to the right also gives more room to get the oil filter off
put some oil in the filter before install if you love your engine.

fsttyms1

Dont need a block of wood for the subframe lift point. Actually that would be dangerous as its not flat to begin with. A good floor jack with a +4 inch lifting pad will cradle the lift point and keep it from slipping off

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

I will try the block trick on my next one. I also didn't put any oil in the filter before I put it on. What does this do?

I do a lot of stop and go driving so I will check it at 5K like you said. What is the place that does that again? Do you or Kris have the number or website so I can order that testing kit?

I have a 2-ton floor jack that I bought from Wal-Mart, but the lifting pad is only like 2".