Well I will be changing out my rear brake pads. I think I got everything covered.
Got the bleeder kit, synpower fluid, caliper paint, and brake pads.

Is there anything else I need. Any tips? Ok now with bleeding, can I do the rear first?

 

NO

Its LF driver front then clockwise around the car LF RF RR LR

 

 

You two should really take vacation to Tampa Fl and show my car some lovin......

 

Ok now to bleed the brake. Attach the hose to the bleeder valve, open master cylinder, open bleeder valve,pump brakes 3 to 4 times, close bleeder valve, paint the caliper a ricer color, and done. Right.

 

HHUh??? NOOOOOO

I use the grab a friend method and have never tried one of the bleeder kits

Save me some typing and check the DIY section-- but is basics:

You remove old fluid from master with turkey baster-
place small wood 2x4 block under brake pedal to limit its travel to 2/3
Fill master and replace cap
pump 3-5 times and hold like at stoplight on a steep hill
open bleeder- pedal gets to block- helper says- DOWN- you close the bleeder
It takes around 5 sets on each wheel to get clean fluid out- then do it again a few sets to make certain its all good fluid
Refill master and recap it and the new fluid bottle after each wheel
Place some throw away rags under the master in case you spill while working with brake fluid
CAUTION brake fluid EATS paint from fenders like it was nothing!!

 

I painted my stock TL calipers and the brackets Duplicolor caliper paint,
glossy black

Now I call them my Bimbos~
they match my Roluxe watch perfect

 

Ha!

 

hmm.. why are you bleeding the brakes?

You do not have to do that when replacing pads..

 

He is replacing the brakes bit by bit and flushing the brake fluid every year is cheap insurance for our cars- was supposed to do it before but----kids these days <g>
The fluid looks bad in 2 years- imagine what happens in 5 or 6- calipers get rust particles in them then you push the piston back to install pads and a month later you need calipers!
try to look surprised when it happens to you~
After the first time you do it, its a 15 minute job because you know how.
My car gets driven on the track and the moutains so I actually do my fluid about every 3 months. Keeps the pedal firm!

 

No but its the perfect time. It should be done more often than people actually have it done

 

...i thot this was gonna be something big like a engine swap or something.

 

Werd, I thought he was going to do a nice 3.5 swap 6 speed supercharged type big project.. But I guess not.. Good luck on this though.

 

The caliper might get stuck?

 

Huh?
use the tool like c clamp with wood block inside the caliper to push the piston into the caliper or the 5$ tool for the job
Some even open the bleeder and push the piston in by hand
I prefer a method with a flat surface against the piston to ensure it goes in straight

It does NOT have to go in all flush- leave it out a little- and clean the rubber seal area with a gentle rag before, to remove grit and grime

I go overboard and clean everything I can spray clean or reach in the caliper and bracket and the little spring things on the brackets where the pad fits in

 

NOTE when you remove the caliper- use a wire hanger or zip ties to strap it to the upper arm so it doesnt fall and damage you or it- good time to paint the back of it too, while you clean the bracket for painting and grease the points

Yes I know you cant see the backs so many dont bother to paint them

 

If I am gonna do it I want it done right. I was going to open the bleeder valve and push the caliper in by hand. But if u say thats a bad idea then I wont. I wont be doing the project until next weekend, unless I wake up early tommorow and get it done.

 

Do whatever works-as long as you're flushing/bleeding the brakes anyway it wont hurt anything to open the bleeder and use the old pad to push the piston in - wear gloves- pads have bad stuff in them

Omit the beer part tonight and get up early- its a simple job and spending the weekend bedding the pads is more fun than watching tv

 

I like to use the old brake pad and the C-Clamp to compress it

 

 

I think I need to change my brake fluid.....and Power steering flush.....Damnit. I hate wasting money.

 

ok woke up early this morning. Me and my buddy got started. first painted the front calipers and bleed the front in the order that Tom said. Next to the rear same but replaced the pads to. All done and wraped up.

Well now after a while test driving I feel a light pulse in the pedal. Take it to my buddy at a shop and they inspected it all and said everything looks good and the rear rotors are slightly warped. Since the pads are new I will feeel the pulse more. Now I just went to Napa got the Rotors and will be replacing them tonight or in the Morning. Would do them right now but I have a chapter of reading to do, so get that knocked out first.

Any tips on rotor replacement.

 

Nahhhh, he will wait for me to do it first

 

spray wd or penetrating lube on the 2 screws then a good whack with the impact screwdriver or chisel or screwdriver you dont like, and they come out- if not, get out the drill and destroy them- not required for assembly

There is a rubber plug on center housing- remove to access star wheel adjuster for mini drum brakes that are the parking brakes- thats in case rotor stuck on- plan on banging rotor with hammer to remove
the 2 bolts holding the caliper bracket for the rear- torque 60 lbs
caliper to bracket 28-31ft lbs
Paint the center and edges first!
If park brake adjustment good- leave alone-

 

Got everything done, including all calipers painted black. I shall also call my setup Bimbos also.

 

If you missed any spots with paint- that makes them BLEMbos

Mine look good from a normal viewing distance- super close I can see where they need a little improvement- but no one ever gets their face into the rotor anyway!

 

three point two:
You can do the brake fluid flush and the power steering fluid change at home
Both simple jobs and you can buy $30 ramps to save $200 in dealer labor and use the brake fluid of your choice
The PS is drain and refill- not flush
The brake fluid is pump till clear fluid comes thru- simple simple simple
If you can add gas and change oil on your own car- do this type stuff yourself

Its not throwing money away- its saving money by keeping things fresh- you dont want to know what a PS pump cost- or a set of calipers (gulp)

 

Brake bleeding was amazingly easy on the TL.

 

You didnt bleed them- thats what you do when air gets in the system like from changing to SS brake lines or replacing a caliper

You flushed the brake fluid- its the only fluid we dare actually ~flush~ on the TL
Everything else is drain and refill

Good job finally getting that done- now do it once a year or if you do track days- do it before and after the event for peak performance of the system