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Well, the B7WA in my 2001 TL-p is finally so bad it isn't worth trying to drive the vehicle, so I sourced a BAYA via car-parts...
Now, to be honest I CANNOT verify it is a 2006-2007 BAYA given the fact that it has no sticker on it. It is already a rebuilt transmission, evidenced by the grey primer paint it was wanted throughout (including the torque converter area), but that also means it is in great shape (virtually no dirt/grease on it). It already has an afternarket torque converter labeled HO-21, the fluid I drained out of it was a nice red, not perfect "pink" of new fluid, but it had no heavy smell to it and was most certainly not burnt without any hint or sort of "brown" tint to it at all. The magnetic drain plug had a little grey "paste" on it that would be consistent with break-in of a new trans so that looked good as well. The cartridge filter in the housing also had a little grey to it, but again was all consistent with what you would expect from a 15k-30k mile running transmission.
I measured the torque converter bolt patten against a B7WA from a 2001 TL and it matched identically and the HO21 is listed for use with both the Accord and the 2004-2007 TL as well as the 2001, so I know it will all work together.
The only thing I am forced to change on the trans is the obvious fluid heat exchanger on the top (reusing the stock TL one), as well as new axle shaft seals (you would be stupid NOT to change those, regardless of how good the ones in there look), a new cartridge filter along with the broken solenoids. Yeah, the monkeys pulling the transmission ended up mangling the electrical connectors off the A/B pressure control solenoid as well as the C pressure control solenoid. Considering I had to buy new ones of those I decided to buy all new shift solenoids as well (2 black connector and 2 brown connector), so all the external solenoids will be Rostra Performance units. The 3rd gear and 4th gear pressure switches are already new OEM Honda siwtches, as well as a new Honda temperature sensor, so only the external gear sensors are original Honda with everything else new OEM or Rostra Performance.
I paid $750 for the transmission, which I think is a great deal considered the newer torque converter. The solenoids I got a good deal on so they ran an additional $275. I did also buy a transmission cooler thermostat along with mounting kit and line for $80, so all in I have about $1150 or so, say $1250 including the seals and two gallons of ATF.
I already have a front mount transmission cooler that I will loop into the system via the return line and the thermostat. I have no plans to remove the stock heat exchanger as I think it provides a valuable function in pre-heating the transmission fluid in cold weather, and considering this is the "winter vehicle" so I can keep the miles off the nicer/newer vehicles I want to keep it functionally optimized in cold temps.
I will also be swapping out the Gabriel Ultra-struts when I take care of the transmission. I am going to be putting in Monroe OESpectrum units with new Mevotech mounts and the stock springs. I bought new strut bellows as well, but the stock units are much more comprehensive, so I will see if they can be reused. I also bought all the ancillary stuff to do the build properly, including spring coil insulators and seats. Considering the OESpectrum are built like the OEM units I am hoping the ride is just as nice. They are low-pressure units like OEM.
Beyond that, if everything goes as expected, I will be doing the rest of the stuff I have planned the week after. That includes timing belt kit, waterpump, new alternator, new thermostat even a new fuel pump and housing. Everything left to renew it mechanically. I already did new plugs.coils.EGR valve, cleaned the carbon out of the intake with new gaskets, new PCV, new belts and tensioner and new starter already. After doing all that and adjusting the valves about 6k miles ago, she has been running like new. The new motor mounts and new brakes all around (calipers/rotors/performance ceramic pads/new fluid) have made it a solid driver at 243k miles, so I figure as long as the new transmission works as it should I am in good shape to be able to rely upon this vehicle for a number of years to come. Even the parking/emergency brake operates like new once I properly adjusted it with the new rotors.
Also, yes, I will be using proper clamps on the hoses when I do the installation as well as moving over the Acura wiring harnesses and stuff and a few brackets...
I will admit, I found using the factory lifting brackets worked great to route the feed hose to the thermostat. The return couldn't be cleaner as well.
Also, ignore the solenoids, as I will be installing brand new ones before the transmission goes in.
I do have a question... I would imagine the cooler would increase the capacity of the system a little, but when the fluid is checked with the car not running, the small amount of drainback into the case wouldn't need to be accounted for outside of maybe .1-.2 quarts that would drain back with the rest "trapped" in the cooling loop.
The first fill the lines and the cooler will fill up, but I wouldn't imagine much of a siphon effect would happen to clear the lines and cooler of fluid, right?
I know on domestic V8s/V6s and stuff you only have a small amount of fluid drainback out of the cooler when the vehicle shuts off and I would expect even less here because the cooler is installed at the same level as the transmission in this case, vs up higher as is the case with most V8/V6 domestic applications.
Thoughts?
I just want to be sure that when I check the fluid I can still rely upon the hashmarks on the TL dipstick in the new transmission.
I know the guy that "rebuilt" the original transmission in the car overfilled the trans by at least 1.5 quarts. When I drained and filled it a few weeks after he was done I put in the "correct" amount, being 3.1 quarts and the transmission had immediate fits with the fluid being that low. I have ZERO idea what he did to make it so problematic, but consdering the issues I have had since I would imagine he maybe didn't put an internal filter in the transmission (the pickup port the filter feeds into is a little higher, so it would make sense you needed to fill it more).
^
I have a trans. cooler on my 03 CL-S that the previous owner installed shortly after the car was purchased many moons ago.
To maximize the accuracy of the ATF level read, I make sure to park on a level surface, after the car has been driven to reach operating temp, with the car running.
The hood is then opened, I grab a cloth and shut the car off & quickly pull the ATF dipstick, wipe, reinsert, count to three, pull the dipstick again and make the read.
Never had an issue with the level, usually in the middle or just at the top line.
When changing the ATF, the quantity out was consistent with the normal 3 quarts one would expect & that's what I placed back in.
I've been running the cheaper Aisin DW-1, from rockauto, for almost 24 months now with no problems.
Good luck with your BAYA swap.
^
I have a trans. cooler on my 03 CL-S that the previous owner installed shortly after the car was purchased many moons ago.
To maximize the accuracy of the ATF level read, I make sure to park on a level surface, after the car has been driven to reach operating temp, with the car running.
The hood is then opened, I grab a cloth and shut the car off & quickly pull the ATF dipstick, wipe, reinsert, count to three, pull the dipstick again and make the read.
Never had an issue with the level, usually in the middle or just at the top line.
When changing the ATF, the quantity out was consistent with the normal 3 quarts one would expect & that's what I placed back in.
I've been running the cheaper Aisin DW-1, from rockauto, for almost 24 months now with no problems.
Good luck with your BAYA swap.
Thanks for the reply. That was exactly what I was hoping to hear!
The fluid I removed from the unit had virtually no smell to it. I can only imagine it was DW-1.
Personally I was going to run Valvoline Maxlife ATF. It is listed as being "compatible". And at $24/gallon it is cheap enough to replace every 15k miles (I use Mobil 1 or Royal Purple along with a Mobil 1 filter when I do oil changes). I figure I get a free transmission fluid change every fourth change.
I have been doing some reading on the Accord and Odyssey forums and most people seem to be split between DW-1 and Maxlife. If I know there is an advantage to DW-1 I won't have a problem switching. I mean it is actually about the same price as the Maxlife, and I will just order a whole case from rockauto.
^
Well to say the least, in my experimentation with Aisin DW-1, it certainly is cheaper than Acura / Honda DW-1; however, many on here recommend the latter.
It's your call, plus, I'm a cheapskate and RA has the best price per quart that I could find.
Considering I have been using Maxlife in a few other vehicles successfully and considering that things are pretty evenly split between DW-1 (even the Aisin variety) I will probably just go with Maxlife.
Honestly, I think changing it every 30-40k miles makes a bigger difference in longevity than the make/brand as long as it is quality synthetic.
I have yet to read anything that states a given formulation is required due to internal construction or metieral composition. There are plenty of people running the "bad" transmissions long-term on Maxlife and DW-1 (Aisin, Honda OEM and hte OEM makers own derivative) that are doing frequent changes.
Seems like the earlier torque clutch materials falling apart was a major source of issues, coupled with just bad internal oiling designs. The frequent oil changes fixed the later and the former needed replacement torque converters. And yeah, the oil jets fixed manufacturing errors in regards to the given gear oiling flaw. If your transmission shows no signs of overheating that gear after 20k-30k miles oyu don't have teh problem it would seem. Considering mine is already a rebuild I am going to ignore the jet issue (gear looks fine through the sensor hole). As it stands I do ahve on hand a brand new 2001 vintage jet kit. I could easily put in the jet itself with a y-fitting off the return, but I don't think it is necessary.
Considering I have been using Maxlife in a few other vehicles successfully and considering that things are pretty evenly split between DW-1 (even the Aisin variety) I will probably just go with Maxlife.
Honestly, I think changing it every 30-40k miles makes a bigger difference in longevity than the make/brand as long as it is quality synthetic.
No problem.
I agree with the more frequent change intervals, I can't see it being a detriment to these transmissions.
In regards to the Maxlife v. Honda DW-1 v. Aisin DW-1, I digress.
Though, there is another forum member, @horseshoez who is very much more knowledgeable on the subject and incidentally shares an engineering background, such as yourself, who can comment further if he is available.
So, I got the swap done... Only took about a 5 days longer than expected, but I ended up doing a lot of other stuff:
- Replacing all the Gabriel Quick-Struts (the springs were sagging in the front with the drivers side noticably worse than the passenger side). They were replaced by Monroe OESpectrum struts, new Mevotech Supreme mounts/bushings, original OEM srpings and I even replaced the rubber coil noise protectors. I ended up buying the Lisle 20400 tool for dealing with the strut rods and it worked great.
- Replacing rear engine mount (already did the other 4 a month or so ago).
- Cleaning and painting a bunch of lines/brackets to keep corrosion at bay long-term (engine mount vacuum hardlines, transmission bracketry, various bolts)
- Had to hard-pull the dowel pins, which required repair and cleanup before using them.
- Had to helicoil one of the starter bolt holes on the engine block. Previous jerk partially stripped the threads.
- Had to replace some missing hardware (bolt that goes into the engine mount bracket in the back at the transmission, all the torque converter to flexplate bolts as he had 11mm, 12mm and 15mm bolts).
- Ended up taking my time and cleaning a lot of bolt threads and then using anti-sieze on every bolt to make sure I would have no issues from here on out.
- Ended up using a bunch of new/used bracketry I had on hand to make sure all the wiring was all done like "factory" to prevent future issues.
- Cleaned up all the electrical connectors and redid some of the electrical tape wrapping to make sure everything was protected.
- Ground out the ribs on the gear sensor switch cover to make sure it didn't put excessive pressure on teh original sensor.
- Swapped in all the new Rostra solenoids, new OEM pressure switches and an OEM temperature sensor.
- Cleaned up the original heat exchanger (nice that the 2001 unit was stainless steel), swapped it in, used new oem-style clamps.
- Replaced the rear lower lateral arms in the back. They are the ones that adjust the rear toe. The original ones had the cam-bolts siezed to the bushings, so when they were adjust the bushing was twisted. Now with the anti-sieze and all new arms and hardware they will never be an issue again.
All in all, considering everything else on my plate at the moment, I am OK with it taking a bit longer than I expected. The job was not really bad at all with all the right tools and doing things methodically.
I will say doing the rear engine mount was cake with the transmission out. I also cannot see how a LOT of the DIY videos and guides for even doing it with the transmission in place are done in a manner that is so whacked out I cannot see how ANYONE would follow any of that stuff. Honestly, with short externsions, long extensions and a flexible head ratchet you can get the back mount bracket out without a single flex-joint. I think some people are so used to using power ratchets and air tools that they make things far too complicated that it needs to be. Just get the car in the air and pull the passenger side wheel. You can reach through and get everything out REALLY easy once the axle is pulled. I wouldn't even consider trying to do the job without pulling the axle first. Heack even taking out the half-shaft is increadably easy once the rest is done.
Luckily once I was done, the shift cable didn't even need to be adjusted and everything just worked beautifully.
I put about 100 miles on the car today, changed the fluid two more times (first fill was about 5.5quarts including draining and partially filling the torque converter before it was put in yesterday, then today I added the rest to get it basically slightly above the "full" mark on the original dipstick) which basically was a verification that it was full, since I added in 3.5 quarts after the first drain, ran it for a little while, then drained out exactly what I put in, then filled it was about 3.3 quarts. That is about .2 quarts more than "stock" but I figured the little extra would be necessary because of the cooler and extra hoses for the thermostat and everything else. It is again just slightly above the full dot on teh dipstick, but not anything excessive enough to worry about an "overfilled" condition. I already know that there is quite a bit of drainage out of the lines when it is shut off, so the little bit of extra is reasonable.
The only code I got was the first time I got on the expressway and was doing 75mph, within 2-3 minutes it threw a P0740 Torque Clutch Circuit code. I cleared it, stopped the car, shut it off, checked for codes, nothing and then just drove it. I figured the converter clutch circuit needed to be primed and that was more than likely the code. After driving all the miles I did today, it never came back, so I am stucking with that analysis. I will see if there are any issues driving it from cold tomorrow, but I am honestly not expecting any issues.
I will say that redoing all the bolts for the front cradle parts also got rid of the "clicking" sounds I was hearing since that idiot redid the original transmission a few years ago. It is totally solid and noise-free.
Also, the Monroe OESpectrum struts worked AWESOME! The ride is exactly like stock original. The ride height is proper with the OEM springs, and everything is nice, tight, comfortable and like new.
I will add that I originally looped the power steering rack bypass (since mine ia s Premium model it had the variable orifice "sensor" originally), but found it was a bit too "stiff" than I would like for that car. I used a hose restictor clamp to see about lightening it up and it worked great, so I will look into either a possibel electronically controlled bypass orifice system that I can tie into the speed sensor circuit, or I will just add in a physical adjustable restrictor that will allow me to "fine tune" the bypass amount to get the "feel" where I want it to be.
Below are pictures of the transmission just before I installed it.
I took teh car for a drive this morning and three different times it threw the same P0740 code within 35 minutes of driving. I swapped in the OEM linear solenoid and with a 20 minute drive, I did not get a code.
So, I will leave the OEM solenoid in there for a week or so, make sure it is solid and no more codes and then I will try a different Rostra linear solenoid. Not happy that a premium OEM replacement had issues right off, but it is what it is.
The Rostra solenoid also has an adjustment cap on it, so I am pretty sure the issue could be adjusted out (I also have the tool to make the adjustments), but considering I want to make sure the transmission/torque converter are solid, I figure why screw around for now.
Beyond that, the transmission has been getting better and better. Shifts are felt and solid engagements now. When I first drove it after the swap it did not shift as solid when cold. Basically you couldn't even feel the shifts at all, it was all buttery smooth, which I know is NOT the best for a transmission long-term. You want solid engagement, not harsh but not questionable either. One warmed up the shifts are smooth and not has harsh as when cold, but that is to be expected. It shifts just as nice as a neighbors 2006 Acura TL with only 42k miles on it.
That P0740 code has not returned, so the "known good" solenoid was the fix for that.
I also tightened all the subframe/cradle bolts that are under the car and the car is 100% solid now. Drove a whole lot yesterday, no sounds/creaks/rattles. Car feels like new, especially with the "whine" that is normally part of the initial take-off of the B7WA transmission that was in the car originally. Acceleration is smooth and nice and everything just flat out makes it feel excellent.
Honestly, the only noise you hear in the car is the sound of the leather seating. I mean I am just shocked a 244k mile vehicle can ride and feel and nice as this one does.
A note in regards to the power-steering bypass. I found that I would much rather have heavy steering feel vs the super-light steering it has with the bypass blocked off. Considering the 2002-2003 Type-S got rid of the variable effort steering and went with the fixed steering feel I just need to figure out the proper bypass orifice size to add into the line to get the feel right. Finding a needle valve setup is something of an issue (I really don't care to spend a ton of monehy on something like that), so I am considering add in plug with a small orifice drilled into it and experimenting with it to see what works. I am thinking only a slight change needs to be done to get it "right". I much prefer the heavier feel at speed (say above 20mph) so I might look into just adding in a solenoid and having ti lockout the bypass below a given speed and open it up above that speed. The big issue would be having it be able to have a hysteresis point where it won't switch if you are within 5mph on either side of that point... that way it will not keep cycling the pressure and stay constant until you are above or below that point.
Actually, in thinking about it, maybe it would just be better to source a 2002-2003 Type-S steering rack...
If interested, here is a discussion thread made by @broly regarding swapping in a cardone 26-1797 Accord steering rack to get a better turning radius on his now 6MT converted 02 TL-S.
In regards to the Speed Sensors, there are two, one on the Mainshaft and one on the Countershaft, basically the Input Speed Sensor and Output Speed Sensor, respectively.
Now, the reason I bring this up si because the B7WA and the BAYA list two different part numbers:
B7WA: 28810-P7W-004
BAYA: 28810-PPW-013
Does anyone know why they would spec two different parts?
Obviously both sensors work with the PCM in the TL.
My concern is from here on out does the BAYA transmission require the 28810-PPW-013 sensor?
I would guess it does and there is a difference between the two sensors because of the different materials inside the transmission that relates to how those sensors operate. Also, all replacement part vendors show different parts with no crossover between the two, so there has to be a difference.
The rest of the solenoids and switches and even the ATF sensor is identical between the two units.
More of a FYI than anything else as I wrap up my notes about the swap.
I ordered an OEM ATF temp sensor for when I do the final fluid drain and fill. I have no idea what brand sensor is in the transmission right now and I would prefer not to have any sort of issues, and because it is operating so well, I figured I would go with OEM and not worry about it long-term. I already know the speed sensors are OEM, but I did find an aftermarket pressure switch, which was replaced with OEM when I swapped in the low-mileage OEMs ones I had on the previous transmission (less than 7k miles on the white one and less than 50 miles for the black). I still plan to try the single Rostra Linear Solenoid I have after another week or so. If it works I am set with spare OEM linear solenoids on hand. If not I will contafct Rostra and see what kind of adjustments I need to do to get it to work properly. I would just feel better with all brand new solenoids in the unit if I can.
^
Nice catch & that is interesting about the two different speed sensor part #'s, as you mention above.
I don't think I've seen anyone bring this point up before.
When I look at the PDF for this AV6 trans. swap it does not mention anything about swapping the speed sensors; therefore, the BAYA sensor 28810-PPW-013 automatically stays with the transmission as it goes into the TL?
Which brings up the question, would one notice a difference and what would it be if the B7WA 28810-P7W-004 was used instead, since, as you mention, both jive with the TL ECU?
^
Nice catch & that is interesting about the two different speed sensor part #'s, as you mention above.
I don't think I've seen anyone bring this point up before.
When I look at the PDF for this AV6 trans. swap it does not mention anything about swapping the speed sensors; therefore, the BAYA sensor 28810-PPW-013 automatically stays with the transmission as it goes into the TL?
Which brings up the question, would one notice a difference and what would it be if the B7WA 28810-P7W-004 was used instead, since, as you mention, both jive with the TL ECU?
Exactly.
I asked a transmission rebuilder I know and he stated that it is almost certain that they changed the meterials in the gears and even if the old Acura part *may* work, it may not be as consistent ot proepr as the newer part number the BAYA uses.
He stated that Honda has constantly been improving the design until the 2005-2006 timeframe and finally "got it right" before they changed designs with newer models. He also mentioned the BAYA sensor has a complete metal "cap" on it which causes improved signal response compared to the plastic bodied older sensors, so that makes sense.
Well, I got in the new OEM Acura temperature sensor, so I decided to install it along with the other new Rostra Single Linear Solenoid I have. I also got in the torque converter cover plate and new OEM torque converter bolts.
It has been about 350 miles since the install and last fluid change, so I figure it would be good to see how much material is built up on the magnet on the drain plug as well.
I was pleasently surprised to find only a minimum amount of "paste" on the magnet. Barely enough to leave a stain on the paper towel, so that is good. The fluid was perfect, basically brand new, no smell, no color change, etc...
Getting the temperature sensor out without removing the transmission mount was a challenge, but accomplished without too much frustration. The other sensor was an OEM sensor as well, so I saved it as a spare.
Once that was back in, I swapped out the OEM Linear Solenoid C to the new Rostra one. I want to keep the OEM solenoids as "known good" spares in case of issues down the road.
I then changed out the hardware store torque converter bolts to the OEM bolts, then installed the torque converter cover plate. Turns out I figured out why the idiot that did the work didn't install it back. That was because he stripped out the upper bolt hole. I drilled, tapped it and then used a helicoil to repair it. Took all of 15 minutes... Some people just suck when working on other peoples cars.
When all was said and done I did the same 3.3quart fill as before. Again, .2quarts more than what is called for but I figure it is reasonable given te extra system volume with the cooler and thermostat. I have no idea how much of the extra volume siphons out when shut off, so I consider that amount "extra" isn't really enough to make it "overfilled" so it is within a safe margin.
While I Was under there I decided to do an oil change before it gets cold out here. I use Royal Purple 5w30. I switch off between RP and Mobil 1 High Mileage every year. Next year will be Mobil 1. I do that because of the different levels of additives and detergents used. I figure since I didn't do oil changes on this car for 228k miles I would rather be more aggressive with internal cleanups inside the engine. In another two years I will settle on Mobil 1 High Mileage from there on out.
After all of that I finally had another alignment done and, sure enough, the toe was off front and rear. Amazing how the spring height and how tightly the cradles are bolted down ends up changing things alignment wise. After it drove perfect.
I took it on a cruise for dinner with the wife about 55 miles away. Everything operated perfectly. The new Rostra linear solenoid does not throw a code and works as it should.
About the only thing I have left to do is fab up a bracket to get the transmission cooler in front mounted to the front support in front of the AC condesor and behind the power steering cooler loop. Once that is done I am done mechanically outside of swapping out the alternator to the 130 amp new unit I have. Then it is onto the remote start alarm system as well as the audio system upgrade.
Oh, and I might as well mention that I followed the whole theme of hot fluid in the top and cool fluid out the bottom.
After running it like this for a few weeks I can verify the thermostat operates as expected and the fluid heats up quickly with the stock heat exchanger in place. So, this should be "the best of all worlds" in regards to these transmissions.
Shifting has been excellent and the only thing I will take care of is a small fluid "seep" from the front seal where the transmission range switch is located. Since you need to drain the transmission to replace that one I will wait for another month or two and do another fluid exchange when I change it out.
That P0740 code has not returned, so the "known good" solenoid was the fix for that.
I also tightened all the subframe/cradle bolts that are under the car and the car is 100% solid now. Drove a whole lot yesterday, no sounds/creaks/rattles. Car feels like new, especially with the "whine" that is normally part of the initial take-off of the B7WA transmission that was in the car originally. Acceleration is smooth and nice and everything just flat out makes it feel excellent.
Honestly, the only noise you hear in the car is the sound of the leather seating. I mean I am just shocked a 244k mile vehicle can ride and feel and nice as this one does.
A note in regards to the power-steering bypass. I found that I would much rather have heavy steering feel vs the super-light steering it has with the bypass blocked off. Considering the 2002-2003 Type-S got rid of the variable effort steering and went with the fixed steering feel I just need to figure out the proper bypass orifice size to add into the line to get the feel right. Finding a needle valve setup is something of an issue (I really don't care to spend a ton of monehy on something like that), so I am considering add in plug with a small orifice drilled into it and experimenting with it to see what works. I am thinking only a slight change needs to be done to get it "right". I much prefer the heavier feel at speed (say above 20mph) so I might look into just adding in a solenoid and having ti lockout the bypass below a given speed and open it up above that speed. The big issue would be having it be able to have a hysteresis point where it won't switch if you are within 5mph on either side of that point... that way it will not keep cycling the pressure and stay constant until you are above or below that point.
Actually, in thinking about it, maybe it would just be better to source a 2002-2003 Type-S steering rack...
What’s up bro, did you end up figuring out the best solution to the power steering lines going into the TL-P trans? I was considering swapping over the TL bell housing onto the BAYA case but haven’t been able to find the right tech book for the accord to compare procedures for theory before going head first. I like your idea of doing a type S rack a lot more and I would definitely prefer that if I didn’t already have a rack with less than 6 months on it.. lol
What’s up bro, did you end up figuring out the best solution to the power steering lines going into the TL-P trans? I was considering swapping over the TL bell housing onto the BAYA case but haven’t been able to find the right tech book for the accord to compare procedures for theory before going head first. I like your idea of doing a type S rack a lot more and I would definitely prefer that if I didn’t already have a rack with less than 6 months on it.. lol
Well, the best solution for me was just to leave the bypass hose at 100% (ie, no restrictor on it, full flow). The steering needs a little muscle at low speeds, but even the wife doesn't mind it at all. It is VERY driveable and there are no surprises on the highway. For safety it is the best solution I do believe. Also, I am going to be doing another fluid exchange on teh steering when I redo the timing belt and waterpump. With the bypass hos in place the way it is the entire system should flush properly. I had the issue of the bypass side not flushing at all because the wheels were not turning the first time I followed the factory service manual procedure and the remaining black fluid contaminated the new fluid I just put in the system. I was NOT happy with brand new fluid looking dark brown (yeah the fluid that was in teh car after 229k miles was black as pitch). So when I do the other work I will be putting on a new power steering belt and redoing the fluid in teh pwoer steering system once more.
Honestly, I am sure there is a "perfect orifice size" to put into the bypass hose to get it to feel identical to the Type-S steering. I would imagine it is closer to the bypass outlet size (on the inlet to that hose, which is smalelr than the outlet tube) than the hose size is. I would say about 9/10 the size would be a good start, going down to 4/5 the size as the smallest... Anything smaller than that runs the risk of the car being too twitchy on the highway at speed, which, especially in winter, could be asking for an accident. A small change at lower speed is all that is needed to make it perfect. With it full open it just feels a bit "heavy".
09-08-2023, 07:18 PM
