Does anybody have pix of their Valentine One remote display install?
#2
Here ya go (BTW, this was an easy job; I did it myself - thanks to Shawn for the origonal post that I copied here):
I have my V1 unit mounted to the left of the rear view mirror.
I believe some people tapped into the power from the mirror circuit, but this is what I did to “hard wire” my V1 with the remote display:
Pull off the A-Pillar trim piece going from the dashboard to the headliner (no fasteners, it just pulls off).
Open the cover to the fuse box on the driver’s side.
Fish the wires from the V1, across the headliner and down the post to the fuse box.
I used some blue poster putty to keep the wire from falling out of its hidden place above the headliner.
Press the A-Pillar trim piece back on being careful not to pinch any wires.
I connected the power to the fuse box (#12 fuse).
It is the circuit for the windshield wipers and it is only “HOT” when the key is “ON”.
Strip the RED V1 power wire about 3/8 of an inch.
Pull the #12 fuse out.
Fan the wire out a bit so it is kind of flat.
Insert the bare wire into one side of the fuse socket (doesn’t matter which side).
Be careful that there are no loose strands of wire sticking out anywhere.
Replace the fuse; it will hold the wire securely in place.
Connect the ground wire to the screw terminal on top of the fuse box opening. (See photo)
If you have the remote display like I do, it is only slightly more difficult.
The power connections are the same, but instead of power directly to the V1 there is a small junction box that distributes power to both pieces.
They are all plug-in phone type connectors and no cutting/splicing is required.
If you mount the remote display on the column where I have mine, be sure to use “zip-ties” to keep the wires away from any parts that move when you turn the wheel.
Your V1 unit should now turn ON/OFF with the ignition whenever you start or stop the car.
I hope this helps you out.
Shawn S.
I have my V1 unit mounted to the left of the rear view mirror.
I believe some people tapped into the power from the mirror circuit, but this is what I did to “hard wire” my V1 with the remote display:
Pull off the A-Pillar trim piece going from the dashboard to the headliner (no fasteners, it just pulls off).
Open the cover to the fuse box on the driver’s side.
Fish the wires from the V1, across the headliner and down the post to the fuse box.
I used some blue poster putty to keep the wire from falling out of its hidden place above the headliner.
Press the A-Pillar trim piece back on being careful not to pinch any wires.
I connected the power to the fuse box (#12 fuse).
It is the circuit for the windshield wipers and it is only “HOT” when the key is “ON”.
Strip the RED V1 power wire about 3/8 of an inch.
Pull the #12 fuse out.
Fan the wire out a bit so it is kind of flat.
Insert the bare wire into one side of the fuse socket (doesn’t matter which side).
Be careful that there are no loose strands of wire sticking out anywhere.
Replace the fuse; it will hold the wire securely in place.
Connect the ground wire to the screw terminal on top of the fuse box opening. (See photo)
If you have the remote display like I do, it is only slightly more difficult.
The power connections are the same, but instead of power directly to the V1 there is a small junction box that distributes power to both pieces.
They are all plug-in phone type connectors and no cutting/splicing is required.
If you mount the remote display on the column where I have mine, be sure to use “zip-ties” to keep the wires away from any parts that move when you turn the wheel.
Your V1 unit should now turn ON/OFF with the ignition whenever you start or stop the car.
I hope this helps you out.
Shawn S.
#3
![Arrow](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/icons/icon2.gif)
Oblio98 should be able to post pics of his V1 install. I know he has one, just dont know where the pics are of it so I can't post it. My friend did it in his TL the same way as described above, but I suggest not putting the detector too far up in the winshield. It works BEST when it's in the middle of the window.
#4
Drifting
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During the KC TL meet, I saw that Kensteele has a killer V-1 install in his CL. All his wiring were hidden in the roof liner, and he mounted the remote underneath the "not an" ashtray.
#5
Suzuka Master
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#6
Drifting
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The instructions are great except for one thing: it does matter which side of the fuse you use to draw power for your V-1. Always choose the side that is protected by the fuse. Doing otherwise will pose a fire risk in the unlikely case that your V-1 power supply wire shorts to ground.
To find out which side is protected, remove the fuse after you pinch the wire into the fuse socket, and turn on your power. The V-1 should not come on. If it does, you used the wrong terminal. Pull out the wire and insert it into the other terminal.
To find out which side is protected, remove the fuse after you pinch the wire into the fuse socket, and turn on your power. The V-1 should not come on. If it does, you used the wrong terminal. Pull out the wire and insert it into the other terminal.
#7
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Originally posted by daverman
The instructions are great except for one thing: it does matter which side of the fuse you use to draw power for your V-1. Always choose the side that is protected by the fuse. Doing otherwise will pose a fire risk in the unlikely case that your V-1 power supply wire shorts to ground.
The instructions are great except for one thing: it does matter which side of the fuse you use to draw power for your V-1. Always choose the side that is protected by the fuse. Doing otherwise will pose a fire risk in the unlikely case that your V-1 power supply wire shorts to ground.
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#8
Drifting
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Originally posted by mr tl
very true. but i think it would be wiser to use the NON fused side, and add your own in line fuse. that way theres no way youll overload the factory fuse.
very true. but i think it would be wiser to use the NON fused side, and add your own in line fuse. that way theres no way youll overload the factory fuse.
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