Do you guys wash the engine when u wash?
03-19-2001, 03:41 PM
#1
Three Wheelin'
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I wait for a hot day and race the engine around for hours. Then I get cold buckets and fill them with ice and some soapy water. Then while it's still really hot I splash the cold water all over the engine.
Just Kidding!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Car is too new to clean the engine, unless you leak oil, take a rag when its cooled down and wipe off the dust. Don't steam or wash it you might messup seals.
<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1" FACE="Verdana, Arial">[This message has been edited by NighthawkBlack on March 19, 2001 @ ]</font>
Just Kidding!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Car is too new to clean the engine, unless you leak oil, take a rag when its cooled down and wipe off the dust. Don't steam or wash it you might messup seals.
<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1" FACE="Verdana, Arial">[This message has been edited by NighthawkBlack on March 19, 2001 @ ]</font>
03-19-2001, 04:02 PM
#2
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After a nice long day of offroading, I find it easier to take my car through a automatic car wash. I remove the hood completely and drive it on through. after that spray it down with some WD40 and it gives it a nice shine.
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1999 stock Silver TL w/Navi
1990 orange CRX (IS300 Eater)
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1999 stock Silver TL w/Navi
1990 orange CRX (IS300 Eater)
03-19-2001, 04:47 PM
#3
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Don't pour water on your engine while it still hot, the engine block may crack (at least with the old iron block not too sure about the aluminum block, but better safe than sorry.
What I do is run the engine for about a minute and then turn it off. I'll work on sections of the engine usually from left to right. I'll lightly spray the section with a garden hose at low pressure (or use a spray bottle filled with water). Then I take another spray bottle filled with 50% Simple Green and 50% water and spray the areas where dirt has collected. Let sit for a couple minutes, and then rinse the area real well with the hose or spray bottle. Move onto next section and repeat. Then I usually spray the whole engine compartment down one last time to make sure I've rinsed as much of the Simple Green off. Then I'll towel dry by hand areas I could reach and let the rest air dry. You could start the engine up and let heat generated help dry things faster. Be careful around electrical components and connectors when rinsing, try not to spray them directly or too much. Once everything is dry, then you could use a rubber conditioner to get all the rubber shiny and clean. You could buy Simple Green at Kmart, Target, and stores like them.
What I do is run the engine for about a minute and then turn it off. I'll work on sections of the engine usually from left to right. I'll lightly spray the section with a garden hose at low pressure (or use a spray bottle filled with water). Then I take another spray bottle filled with 50% Simple Green and 50% water and spray the areas where dirt has collected. Let sit for a couple minutes, and then rinse the area real well with the hose or spray bottle. Move onto next section and repeat. Then I usually spray the whole engine compartment down one last time to make sure I've rinsed as much of the Simple Green off. Then I'll towel dry by hand areas I could reach and let the rest air dry. You could start the engine up and let heat generated help dry things faster. Be careful around electrical components and connectors when rinsing, try not to spray them directly or too much. Once everything is dry, then you could use a rubber conditioner to get all the rubber shiny and clean. You could buy Simple Green at Kmart, Target, and stores like them.
03-19-2001, 06:20 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
I wait until a Saturday and pull the car out of the garage while the motor is still cold, when I finish washing the car I clean the engine with mild detergent and then dress the rubber afterward. I only clean the motor every couple of months...
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2000 TL - Laguna Green, Navi, Rear Spoiler. PIAA Hyperwhite HB's. 17" CL-S wheels with Bridgestone RE 730 - 225/45/17's. Soon to have Comptech Suspension, Sways & Axle back Exhaust.
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2000 TL - Laguna Green, Navi, Rear Spoiler. PIAA Hyperwhite HB's. 17" CL-S wheels with Bridgestone RE 730 - 225/45/17's. Soon to have Comptech Suspension, Sways & Axle back Exhaust.
03-19-2001, 11:29 PM
#6
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Originally posted by GIMMICK:
Don't pour water on your engine while it still hot, the engine block may crack (at least with the old iron block not too sure about the aluminum block, but better safe than sorry.
What I do is run the engine for about a minute and then turn it off. I'll work on sections of the engine usually from left to right. I'll lightly spray the section with a garden hose at low pressure (or use a spray bottle filled with water). Then I take another spray bottle filled with 50% Simple Green and 50% water and spray the areas where dirt has collected. Let sit for a couple minutes, and then rinse the area real well with the hose or spray bottle. Move onto next section and repeat. Then I usually spray the whole engine compartment down one last time to make sure I've rinsed as much of the Simple Green off. Then I'll towel dry by hand areas I could reach and let the rest air dry. You could start the engine up and let heat generated help dry things faster. Be careful around electrical components and connectors when rinsing, try not to spray them directly or too much. Once everything is dry, then you could use a rubber conditioner to get all the rubber shiny and clean. You could buy Simple Green at Kmart, Target, and stores like them.
Don't pour water on your engine while it still hot, the engine block may crack (at least with the old iron block not too sure about the aluminum block, but better safe than sorry.
What I do is run the engine for about a minute and then turn it off. I'll work on sections of the engine usually from left to right. I'll lightly spray the section with a garden hose at low pressure (or use a spray bottle filled with water). Then I take another spray bottle filled with 50% Simple Green and 50% water and spray the areas where dirt has collected. Let sit for a couple minutes, and then rinse the area real well with the hose or spray bottle. Move onto next section and repeat. Then I usually spray the whole engine compartment down one last time to make sure I've rinsed as much of the Simple Green off. Then I'll towel dry by hand areas I could reach and let the rest air dry. You could start the engine up and let heat generated help dry things faster. Be careful around electrical components and connectors when rinsing, try not to spray them directly or too much. Once everything is dry, then you could use a rubber conditioner to get all the rubber shiny and clean. You could buy Simple Green at Kmart, Target, and stores like them.
dont you have to cover the distributor cap so it wont get wet?
03-19-2001, 11:31 PM
#7
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Do you guys wash the engine when u wash?
I haven't wash under the hood yet...but I think it's about time...what do u guys use? What's the best way to do it.
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2001 3.2TL with Nav
Satin Silver Metallic
Factory Rear Wing Spoiler
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2001 3.2TL with Nav
Satin Silver Metallic
Factory Rear Wing Spoiler
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03-20-2001, 08:03 AM
#8
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I was taught a long time ago to take a small plastic bag and cover the distributor cap to ensure that it doesn't get too wet, or else you won't be driving anywhere for a while!
Other than that, I use the same basic procedure as above. I think it makes a big difference and looks great!
Other than that, I use the same basic procedure as above. I think it makes a big difference and looks great!
03-20-2001, 09:35 AM
#9
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Hey guys...good advice, I don't know what simple green is but I'ma go look for it. And cover the distributor cap...makes sense 
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2001 3.2TL with Nav
Satin Silver Metallic
Factory Rear Wing Spoiler
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2001 3.2TL with Nav
Satin Silver Metallic
Factory Rear Wing Spoiler
03-20-2001, 10:01 AM
#10
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I don't think there is a distributor cap. Please correct me if i'm wrong. i do know there are separate coils for each cylinder. The most important thing to remember when washing the engine is that with all the electronic components, you have to keep the moisture out.
03-20-2001, 10:22 AM
#11
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Originally posted by TLover8888:
dont you have to cover the distributor cap so it wont get wet?
dont you have to cover the distributor cap so it wont get wet?
Simple is pretty good stuff, no harsh chemicals. It works a little better when diluted with water. It's also great to have around the house.
03-20-2001, 01:17 PM
#12
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http://www.autopia-carcare.com/endet.html
The above link has some good info on detailing your engine.
DA
The above link has some good info on detailing your engine.
DA
03-20-2001, 02:40 PM
#13
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Wow. Thanks Gimmick. Is it important to wash under the hood? I have to admit, I've thought about it but never really felt it was that important. But I guess I'll go wash it sometime. The weather is nice and after finals, I'll have some free time.
TLracr
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Dark Emerald Pearl 2000 3.2 TL with Nav, Sebring Mufflers, Sebring Quad Sport Exhaust System, Factory Spoiler, HP Quantum Mirror Tint, 6 Disc Alpine CD changer, 16" 139C Pacer wheels, Yokohama 215/55/16s, PIAA 1700x
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TLracr
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Dark Emerald Pearl 2000 3.2 TL with Nav, Sebring Mufflers, Sebring Quad Sport Exhaust System, Factory Spoiler, HP Quantum Mirror Tint, 6 Disc Alpine CD changer, 16" 139C Pacer wheels, Yokohama 215/55/16s, PIAA 1700x
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Click to visit my updated page with pictures of my TL!
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03-20-2001, 02:44 PM
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I have never done this to my TL but I was wondering if one could use GUNK?? It is a designated engine cleaner, but I am not sure if it is good for a TL. The only thing that I have used it on is my Rideing lawn mower. Opinions??
03-20-2001, 11:10 PM
#15
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i rinsed the engine down once in the 2 years of ownership, and it was mroe recent.. I didn't use any detergents thought, the engine was relatively clean.. I took off the cover, and washed than seperately with a detergent though..the engine cleaning isn't really necessary, I was just bored..
Ed
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