Diy - rear engine mount replacement
12-23-2015, 01:22 PM
#42
I got it done late last night. Rear mount looked fine but had a lot of play. It was the problem.
A few things made the job a lot longer than it should have been:
1. If going the route of leaving the bracket in place, it is important to loosen (BUT NOT REMOVE) the top nut on the front mount. I zipped it all the way off with an impact wrench with the intention to go back and put it on by hand, but by the time I was ready to jack the car up I'd forgotten. I spent an extra hour or more getting the engine re-aligned and the front mount back in place.
2. I pulled a coolant hose (I think for the cabin heater) without having drained the coolant. That was to make room to get the mount out the top on the passenger side. I didn't see another easy way to get it out. That put 2/3 of my coolant on the garage floor. Thankfully I had an almost full gallon of Honda coolant on hand. In retrospect, that would have been a good time to do a coolant drain and fill from the radiator.
3. When I was pretty much done, I found a 1/4" vacuum hose just dangling in the back of the compartment near the top. I couldn't figure out where that was supposed to attach. I eventually found a diagram online. It goes in the back of the intake manifold on the drivers side end near the top. I had to take off the cosmetic manifold cover to see it. Coincidentally, it is from the engine mount control solenoid valve.
4. The pins vibrated out of my cheap, 1/2" impact U-joint. Tekton brand.
Each of those things added about an hour to the job. I also discovered after beginning that my newly acquired 10-piece metric impact socket set, that I bought for this purpose, doesn't include 14mm (about the most important one). So I made a trip to the HW store to buy one.
I had the tranny mounts on hand to replace at the same time. Unfortunately, those bolts are really on there, and access sucks. They are accessed through holes in the sub-frame. The one in the front of the car is about 24mm in diameter, too big to fit my newly acquired 14mm socket
And with a breaker bar I was afraid of stripping the nuts.
So I skipped the tranny mounts and they handled the strain of jacking the engine very high a few times. I lifted at the J-pipe? the stuff between exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe using a piece of 2x4 under a Jack.
In a clean garage with the right tools this wouldn't be too bad. It was a bit of an undertaking the way I did it though.
Replacing all 3 mounts wouldn't have taken any more time because I had each of them free at one point (short of 3 easy top access bolts I left in place on the passenger side mount, I just took off the motor bracket for that one to free the motor.
A few things made the job a lot longer than it should have been:
1. If going the route of leaving the bracket in place, it is important to loosen (BUT NOT REMOVE) the top nut on the front mount. I zipped it all the way off with an impact wrench with the intention to go back and put it on by hand, but by the time I was ready to jack the car up I'd forgotten. I spent an extra hour or more getting the engine re-aligned and the front mount back in place.
2. I pulled a coolant hose (I think for the cabin heater) without having drained the coolant. That was to make room to get the mount out the top on the passenger side. I didn't see another easy way to get it out. That put 2/3 of my coolant on the garage floor. Thankfully I had an almost full gallon of Honda coolant on hand. In retrospect, that would have been a good time to do a coolant drain and fill from the radiator.
3. When I was pretty much done, I found a 1/4" vacuum hose just dangling in the back of the compartment near the top. I couldn't figure out where that was supposed to attach. I eventually found a diagram online. It goes in the back of the intake manifold on the drivers side end near the top. I had to take off the cosmetic manifold cover to see it. Coincidentally, it is from the engine mount control solenoid valve.
4. The pins vibrated out of my cheap, 1/2" impact U-joint. Tekton brand.
Each of those things added about an hour to the job. I also discovered after beginning that my newly acquired 10-piece metric impact socket set, that I bought for this purpose, doesn't include 14mm (about the most important one). So I made a trip to the HW store to buy one.
I had the tranny mounts on hand to replace at the same time. Unfortunately, those bolts are really on there, and access sucks. They are accessed through holes in the sub-frame. The one in the front of the car is about 24mm in diameter, too big to fit my newly acquired 14mm socket
And with a breaker bar I was afraid of stripping the nuts.So I skipped the tranny mounts and they handled the strain of jacking the engine very high a few times. I lifted at the J-pipe? the stuff between exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe using a piece of 2x4 under a Jack.
In a clean garage with the right tools this wouldn't be too bad. It was a bit of an undertaking the way I did it though.
Replacing all 3 mounts wouldn't have taken any more time because I had each of them free at one point (short of 3 easy top access bolts I left in place on the passenger side mount, I just took off the motor bracket for that one to free the motor.
12-23-2015, 04:41 PM
#43
Nice. I actually stripped out the threads on my new tranny mount (rear), there was something wrong with the threads and I couldn't get either nut to thread on. I finally decided to just crank them on and hope they stay, but when they bottomed out they started spinning. Which means, they spin in reverse too and wouldn't come off.
I got them off by simultaneously jacking up the transmission and backing out the nuts with an impact gun. Eventually they caught and came off. Then I got an OEM replacement and that went on just fine.
Oh the joys of auto mechanics...
I got them off by simultaneously jacking up the transmission and backing out the nuts with an impact gun. Eventually they caught and came off. Then I got an OEM replacement and that went on just fine.
Oh the joys of auto mechanics...
12-23-2015, 05:20 PM
#45
There is something solid next to to rear mount on the driver's side of it that made it seemed in the way. And the fuel lines back there looked more risky.
I got really cheap, off-brand tranny mounts because they were the only ones with prime shipping from Amazon. The threaded studs on them are tapered and the threads and nuts are low quality. Even on a bench, it isn't easy to thread them. That factored into my decision to not tackle the transmission mounts at the same time.
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kushito (02-15-2022)
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