DIY-MDX, Pilot, Odyssey spacer install
10-25-2009 | 05:09 PM
#1
Thread Starter
wham bam thank you ma'am
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,316
Likes: 41
From: Illinois
DIY-MDX, Pilot, Odyssey spacer install
What u need from the dealer:
Intake manifold spacer, part number 17108-PGK-A00
Intake manifold gasket, part number 17105-P8E-A01 (or reuse ur old one if u have the p2r thermo spacer(
9 extedned bolts, part number 95701-08105-08
What u need to do the job
Ratchet
8 mm socket
10 mm socket
12mm socket
Screw drivers (+)(-)
Pliers
Dremel, cut off wheel
Safety glasses
mask or face shield
a rag or two
spacers (i used nuts)
1. take out these 4 bolts (10mm)
2. take off these 3 hoses and the one sensor
3. take out the bolt (10mm) and the cable
4. take off the intake (cl-s6 intake)
5.take off 3 sensors, two screws, hose, and the cables
6. take off the throttle body coolant hoses (a good time to do the bypass mod, search for it)
7. take off the 8 bolts and 2 nuts (10mm)
8. take out the 7 bolts and 2 nuts (12mm)
9. should look like this (thermo spacer on)
10. height comparison
11. take out the two studs with vise grips
12. put spacer on
13. put gasket on
14. put bolts in, do it by hand, leave the first few bolts loose so u can move the intake manifold around a bit.
15. tighten all bolts. think it was like 18 ft lbs. i did it by feel and its all good (been doing this a long time)
16. how it should look like
17. now, the imrc cable hooks on here, pull it out of the hook
18. attach the cable and bolt in the bolt (10mm)
19. ur gonna need to put the wires that come out form this sensor. all u need is about half an inch, no harm done
20. hook up the other 3 hoses and place clamps in place
21. hook up the two sensor and the coolant lines (not sure if u need to extend them)
22.hook up the sensor, hose, cables and screw in the two screws that hold the cables in place
23. bolt down top cover (10mm bolts and nuts)
24. put intake back on
CUTTING THE HOOD
1. safety first, use a cut off wheel if u have the oem hood
2. i cut the brace but still needed more room
3. what i had to cut out
4. unbolt the bottom bolt and loosed the top bolt. put in two nuts on the on the bottom between the hood and hinge. hand tighten bottom bolt and take off top bolt. place one nut on the top screw. tighten it down, and do the same to the other side
end results
u get about a finger gap toward teh back.
i plan to take a piece of CF and cover the sides so it looks like a cowl hood.
Intake manifold spacer, part number 17108-PGK-A00
Intake manifold gasket, part number 17105-P8E-A01 (or reuse ur old one if u have the p2r thermo spacer(
9 extedned bolts, part number 95701-08105-08
What u need to do the job
Ratchet
8 mm socket
10 mm socket
12mm socket
Screw drivers (+)(-)
Pliers
Dremel, cut off wheel
Safety glasses
mask or face shield
a rag or two
spacers (i used nuts)
1. take out these 4 bolts (10mm)
2. take off these 3 hoses and the one sensor
3. take out the bolt (10mm) and the cable
4. take off the intake (cl-s6 intake)
5.take off 3 sensors, two screws, hose, and the cables
6. take off the throttle body coolant hoses (a good time to do the bypass mod, search for it)
7. take off the 8 bolts and 2 nuts (10mm)
8. take out the 7 bolts and 2 nuts (12mm)
9. should look like this (thermo spacer on)
10. height comparison
11. take out the two studs with vise grips
12. put spacer on
13. put gasket on
14. put bolts in, do it by hand, leave the first few bolts loose so u can move the intake manifold around a bit.
15. tighten all bolts. think it was like 18 ft lbs. i did it by feel and its all good (been doing this a long time)
16. how it should look like
17. now, the imrc cable hooks on here, pull it out of the hook
18. attach the cable and bolt in the bolt (10mm)
19. ur gonna need to put the wires that come out form this sensor. all u need is about half an inch, no harm done
20. hook up the other 3 hoses and place clamps in place
21. hook up the two sensor and the coolant lines (not sure if u need to extend them)
22.hook up the sensor, hose, cables and screw in the two screws that hold the cables in place
23. bolt down top cover (10mm bolts and nuts)
24. put intake back on
CUTTING THE HOOD
1. safety first, use a cut off wheel if u have the oem hood
2. i cut the brace but still needed more room
3. what i had to cut out
4. unbolt the bottom bolt and loosed the top bolt. put in two nuts on the on the bottom between the hood and hinge. hand tighten bottom bolt and take off top bolt. place one nut on the top screw. tighten it down, and do the same to the other side
end results
u get about a finger gap toward teh back.
i plan to take a piece of CF and cover the sides so it looks like a cowl hood.
10-25-2009 | 06:01 PM
#4
Thread Starter
wham bam thank you ma'am
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,316
Likes: 41
From: Illinois
that scoop isnt wide enough. im gonna make my hood look like a cowl hood. fill in the sides so u cant see the gap..
i break loose in 1st gear at any mph, never did that before. i also notice that at higher rpms, the cars got more pic up. ill get before and after dynos of the mod when i put my other engine in with a good clutch. saving for a clutch and 105k service now
i accept paypal
the more ppl donate me money the faster ill have numbers up
i break loose in 1st gear at any mph, never did that before. i also notice that at higher rpms, the cars got more pic up. ill get before and after dynos of the mod when i put my other engine in with a good clutch. saving for a clutch and 105k service now
i accept paypal
the more ppl donate me money the faster ill have numbers up
The following users liked this post:
rikmorris (11-23-2013)
Trending Topics
10-25-2009 | 10:22 PM
#11
Traded in my
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 470
Likes: 1
From: Portland, OR
The last pic makes me cringe..I wouldn't sacrifice aesthetics for a few HP or a little bit of torque. But that's just me. Maybe when you finish it up I'll change my mind but I'll stick to thermo-spacer for now.
10-26-2009 | 04:42 AM
#18
Thread Starter
wham bam thank you ma'am
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,316
Likes: 41
From: Illinois
thx. u can always mill the spacer down, but u wont get the power that a full spacer has. ill add two more spacers and let the engine stick out of the hood
jjashaa- u willing to sacrifice looks for some power?????????????
jjashaa- u willing to sacrifice looks for some power?????????????
10-26-2009 | 09:10 AM
#19
10-26-2009 | 09:43 PM
#21
Thread Starter
wham bam thank you ma'am
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,316
Likes: 41
From: Illinois
its growing one me. doesnt look bad. ppl ask what i did, i say that my engine doesnt exactly fit anymore. they their like wtf, and i tell them lets leave it at that.
10-26-2009 | 09:51 PM
#23
Traded in my
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 470
Likes: 1
From: Portland, OR
10-26-2009 | 09:51 PM
#24
~~~~~~~~~~~
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 816
Likes: 3
From: Wisconsin
I tried this back in the day, probably 3 years ago (CleanCL and I both tried this) or so on my TLS and ran into the same issue with the hood, sucks because it would have been an awesome mod. Definitely didn't want to cut the hood or raise it. Nice job racja!!
10-28-2009 | 09:28 AM
#28
I think the CL can probably pull that raised/cowl hood thingy but not the TL.. also that helps dissipate(sp?) from the engine, since the hot air is escaping through the back.... I see this a lot with people that have ITBs so they won't be sucking up so much hot air...
....cant wait to hear it this weekend...
10-28-2009 | 10:06 AM
#33
Thread Starter
wham bam thank you ma'am
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,316
Likes: 41
From: Illinois
It sounds the same, its just when the tires try to break loose in first gear. Damn gas prices always go up when I do a mod. I still have yet to touch the intake with my hand. Before, I would touch it and it was hot. Like I can keep my hand on their but after a few seconds it would get uncomfortable to the point that I had to take my hand off. And I had the thermal spacer at that time also
10-28-2009 | 11:40 AM
#34
Very nice writeup. Definitely something I'm considering. But there is no way around lifting the hood? I read the tl-p with a type-s IM needs to do it, but even a true tl-s will still need to cut and/or raise?
And what about getting the 09 IM? Would that give enough clearance to avoid cutting?
And what about getting the 09 IM? Would that give enough clearance to avoid cutting?
10-28-2009 | 11:52 AM
#35
Very nice writeup. Definitely something I'm considering. But there is no way around lifting the hood? I read the tl-p with a type-s IM needs to do it, but even a true tl-s will still need to cut and/or raise?
And what about getting the 09 IM? Would that give enough clearance to avoid cutting?
And what about getting the 09 IM? Would that give enough clearance to avoid cutting?
i put type-s IM on my 03 TL-P and clearance is perfectly fine. just like a regular 02-03 -S..
so..
for a 99-01 to do this.. they would probably have to cut and raise as much or more than what rajca did.
10-28-2009 | 05:43 PM
#40
Thread Starter
wham bam thank you ma'am
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,316
Likes: 41
From: Illinois
heres some more info,
outside temp. 65deg.
runner temp. 168deg
thermo spacer installed
spacer temp. 96deg
intake plenums temp. 83deg
intake top cover temp. 90deg
it actually felt cold. hr drive home, 80mph on highway, and about 15min in stop and go traffic. never felt like that. ill try to drive my tl somehow (zip tie the bumper on so it doesnt fly off) and measure the temps. im a believer of the termo spacer and spacer, along with lifting the hood to keep engine cool.
and tb temp was 72deg
outside temp. 65deg.
runner temp. 168deg
thermo spacer installed
spacer temp. 96deg
intake plenums temp. 83deg
intake top cover temp. 90deg
it actually felt cold. hr drive home, 80mph on highway, and about 15min in stop and go traffic. never felt like that. ill try to drive my tl somehow (zip tie the bumper on so it doesnt fly off) and measure the temps. im a believer of the termo spacer and spacer, along with lifting the hood to keep engine cool.
and tb temp was 72deg
Last edited by Rajca; 10-28-2009 at 05:46 PM.