DIY Indiglo Guage install
DIY Indiglo Guage install
(A)Trim removal
1) Look under the steering wheel cover, you will see 4 screw, remove them, then pull the bottom part of the steering wheel cover down, you might not be able to remove it since it's attached to some wires, but the top piece can be take out (which is important since you want clearance in taking the black trim piece around the gauges out without scratcing it)
2) Remove the fuse box cover, unscrew the one screw that holds the bottom trim piece in, the bottom trim piece can be pulled forward, unplug the dimmer, then the whole bottom trim piece can be taken out. Then remove the TCS, Cruise control switches out too and unplug them.

3) remove the two screws
4) Dig your nails into this area, pull downward till it's free, then follow between the edge of the trims, freeing the black trim. This is the hardest part. Be very careful around the vent areas or you will break/crack it. Around the A/C area becareful, the 5 plugs need to be unhooked before you can take the trim out. So unplug them, they can be a pain if you have big hands. Then put the trim piece in some place safe.
(B)Testing the Gauges
5) Now crimp some female connectors onto the positive wire (red and should come with an inline fuse)and ring terminal connectors for the negative wire (black). (you can buy the crimper tool and connectors from walmart)
6) Now the ring terminal can be grounded by using the screws around the fuse area and the female connectors can be inserted into the accessories plugs behind the fuse box. It goes with #3 (this will allow the gauges to come on when you turn on the parking light). Now test the guages out.
(C)Now we remove the gauge cluster
7) If the gauges work, remove the 4 screws around the gauges area. Then unplug the gauge cluster and remove it.
8) remove the clear covers (use a flat headscrew driver to remove them) and you see the bare stock gauges.
(D)Installing the indiglo guages
9) We want to be really careful now. Do not move the needles too much, and most IMPORTANTLY DO NOT remove the needles. Put in the double sided tape and tape the inner part of the gauges really good or the needles will stick. Do not remove the cover for the other side of the tape yet.
10) Install the gauges, make sure everything line up and figure out where you would want the wiring to go. Once all 3 gauges faces are installed you can remove the backing of the tape and properly tape them. (use a tweezer to removing the backing of the tapes and press them down for atlesat 30 sec)
Now reverse the directions, don't put everything back till you test the guages to make sure the needles don't stick and that they are all working right.
Finish product.

I wrote this up really fast and I plan to (but don't hold your breath) add more pics later. Please feel free to comment and correct me. I wrote this up because atleast 3 people have asked for help. If you still don't understand feel free to PM me and also do a search on ATL.com.
1) Look under the steering wheel cover, you will see 4 screw, remove them, then pull the bottom part of the steering wheel cover down, you might not be able to remove it since it's attached to some wires, but the top piece can be take out (which is important since you want clearance in taking the black trim piece around the gauges out without scratcing it)
2) Remove the fuse box cover, unscrew the one screw that holds the bottom trim piece in, the bottom trim piece can be pulled forward, unplug the dimmer, then the whole bottom trim piece can be taken out. Then remove the TCS, Cruise control switches out too and unplug them.

3) remove the two screws
4) Dig your nails into this area, pull downward till it's free, then follow between the edge of the trims, freeing the black trim. This is the hardest part. Be very careful around the vent areas or you will break/crack it. Around the A/C area becareful, the 5 plugs need to be unhooked before you can take the trim out. So unplug them, they can be a pain if you have big hands. Then put the trim piece in some place safe.
(B)Testing the Gauges
5) Now crimp some female connectors onto the positive wire (red and should come with an inline fuse)and ring terminal connectors for the negative wire (black). (you can buy the crimper tool and connectors from walmart)
6) Now the ring terminal can be grounded by using the screws around the fuse area and the female connectors can be inserted into the accessories plugs behind the fuse box. It goes with #3 (this will allow the gauges to come on when you turn on the parking light). Now test the guages out.
(C)Now we remove the gauge cluster
7) If the gauges work, remove the 4 screws around the gauges area. Then unplug the gauge cluster and remove it.
8) remove the clear covers (use a flat headscrew driver to remove them) and you see the bare stock gauges.
(D)Installing the indiglo guages
9) We want to be really careful now. Do not move the needles too much, and most IMPORTANTLY DO NOT remove the needles. Put in the double sided tape and tape the inner part of the gauges really good or the needles will stick. Do not remove the cover for the other side of the tape yet.
10) Install the gauges, make sure everything line up and figure out where you would want the wiring to go. Once all 3 gauges faces are installed you can remove the backing of the tape and properly tape them. (use a tweezer to removing the backing of the tapes and press them down for atlesat 30 sec)
Now reverse the directions, don't put everything back till you test the guages to make sure the needles don't stick and that they are all working right.
Finish product.

I wrote this up really fast and I plan to (but don't hold your breath) add more pics later. Please feel free to comment and correct me. I wrote this up because atleast 3 people have asked for help. If you still don't understand feel free to PM me and also do a search on ATL.com.
Originally posted by davey73
Also, it helps if you let the car run for a while with the heat on max. It softens everything and makes it easier to remove panels.
Also, it helps if you let the car run for a while with the heat on max. It softens everything and makes it easier to remove panels.
needle calibration
Sup guys,
So the gauges are in they look great. This is one mod I would not suggest if you don't have patience.
Question, my speed gauge is a little off when I accelerate the needle have about 2-3 second delay before it moves. Anyone know how and how hard is it to re-calibrate just this one gauge. I must tell you when I was installing the speed gauge it moved a little counter-clockwise a little pass the pin at zero. HELP!!!!!
The needles don't seem to be getting stuck any where which is a good. Paul what did you use to cut the back end of the needle (dremel tool)? Other than that I love them, big thanks to HZM,TATEWAKI, & SONGOKU (Paul) and others.....
So the gauges are in they look great. This is one mod I would not suggest if you don't have patience.
Question, my speed gauge is a little off when I accelerate the needle have about 2-3 second delay before it moves. Anyone know how and how hard is it to re-calibrate just this one gauge. I must tell you when I was installing the speed gauge it moved a little counter-clockwise a little pass the pin at zero. HELP!!!!!
The needles don't seem to be getting stuck any where which is a good. Paul what did you use to cut the back end of the needle (dremel tool)? Other than that I love them, big thanks to HZM,TATEWAKI, & SONGOKU (Paul) and others.....
Originally posted by Tatewaki
if your needles are ever stuck, try this: use a folk to pry the needles up a bit. You can increase the clearance by a few mm, just enough to clear any bumps on the overlays.
if your needles are ever stuck, try this: use a folk to pry the needles up a bit. You can increase the clearance by a few mm, just enough to clear any bumps on the overlays.
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Originally posted by Tatewaki
right I meant "fork" post edited
right I meant "fork" post edited
hahaha no problem steve...btw I found a guy in the states willing to ship his nearly brand new Blue AEM CAI for 150 USD...not too bad...I don't know if that includes the Bypass valve though...are you gonna put a bypass valve on yours too???
They are not stuck at all, but that's good to know. There is just the 2-3 second delay before the speedo needle moves. That why I was asking about needle calibration in my previous thread
Originally posted by muffaburn
They are not stuck at all, but that's good to know. There is just the 2-3 second delay before the speedo needle moves. That why I was asking about needle calibration in my previous thread
They are not stuck at all, but that's good to know. There is just the 2-3 second delay before the speedo needle moves. That why I was asking about needle calibration in my previous thread
IF you didnt pull the needles off, you couldnt have knocked the calibration out of wack from merely moving the needles around while you were putting the indiglo guage overlays on. Look again very carefully at the needle. It doesnt take but a tiny bit of drag to cause the needle not to respond. If you have file down the underside, use several layers of painters masking tape over the guage fisrt, then use a thin flat file to trim it down. Sears sells a nice 6 piece mini file set for about 15 bucks that works perfect for this. The tape will keep you from damaging the guage face.
Wow, it must have taken him forever to cut through the needle with a razor blade (thick plastic) . So, me making the small mistake of having the needle go slightly counter clockwise (before the zero) has nothing to due with the delay? there fore it is sticking?
Originally posted by muffaburn
Wow, it must have taken him forever to cut through the needle with a razor blade (thick plastic) . So, me making the small mistake of having the needle go slightly counter clockwise (before the zero) has nothing to due with the delay? there fore it is sticking?
Wow, it must have taken him forever to cut through the needle with a razor blade (thick plastic) . So, me making the small mistake of having the needle go slightly counter clockwise (before the zero) has nothing to due with the delay? there fore it is sticking?
Thanks for the info I was scared about the whole recalibration thing. I will try either the file or razor blade method. I too got the custom gauges from the group buy last year, found someone who also didn't install theirs. They look hottt!!!
Originally posted by sc354
I thought something was wrong with me when I first read the post...I was like "WTF is a folk?"
hahaha no problem steve...btw I found a guy in the states willing to ship his nearly brand new Blue AEM CAI for 150 USD...not too bad...I don't know if that includes the Bypass valve though...are you gonna put a bypass valve on yours too???
I thought something was wrong with me when I first read the post...I was like "WTF is a folk?"
hahaha no problem steve...btw I found a guy in the states willing to ship his nearly brand new Blue AEM CAI for 150 USD...not too bad...I don't know if that includes the Bypass valve though...are you gonna put a bypass valve on yours too???
Originally posted by `ill*tl
The Bypass-valve robs hp...
The Bypass-valve robs hp...
I have the gauges that were from the group buy only 50 made, which have different types of illumination settings. I believe HZM's gauges are from ebay (which are still cool, correct me if I am wrong HZM)
when installing mine mine hung up also and in the process of trying to fix the hang up i poped the spedo needle off!!!!! now that was a pain to readjust correctly. the key is to take your time. it took me about an hour to get it adjusted properly.
slightly illuminated blue background blue #s
What is your most used color at night with the indiglo gauge's from the group buy? Just curious
Originally posted by larryr20
HZM, (or anyone else)
The numbers on my guages look differently than you original ones. anyone know why? I have a 2000 TL. HZM's have an italic look. Just curious.
HZM, (or anyone else)
The numbers on my guages look differently than you original ones. anyone know why? I have a 2000 TL. HZM's have an italic look. Just curious.
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