2003 TL Type-S, CDM (Canadian Domestic Market) with DRL box

I had moisture destroy the original driver's side housing... bought a new one, that one leaks now, too. I'll take it out and seal it. Again.

Driver's low beam HID didn't work. I replaced the driver's side ballast and my light worked again. Then moisture started and the driver's HID failed again. We heard clicking from behind the dash and saw the light flicker, so I figured it was a relay. Called the dealer about a price. He asked if I had changed the DRL box (~$187 CDN) because the headlight relay is in the engine bay and we shouldn't hear it in the cabin.

Swapped relays around in the passenger engine fuse compartment and sure enough, did not do anything. Not a relay.

Has anyone else had this DRL unit fail? Since it was originally only the Left HID affected, I wasn't going to experiment with it, but last night I turned the high beams on and they immediately dropped to weak DRL power and high beams won't come on again. And I can't get my fogs to come on after that incident.

Do I now have a switch problem on top of it?? Grrr! Or does this DRL control unit affect fogs as well? (Maybe that's just a fuse popped.... I haven't gotten into that yet... Will tear everything apart this week.)

Weird ass shit going on with this thing. Got a feeling that I'm going to end up just putting everything on relays straight from the battery. But I hate band-aids. I have 6 auxiliary lights on my Impreza and I certainly prefer OE reliability.

Thoughts on DRL box?

 

Here stateside, we don't have to deal with the DRL controls.
However, if you're experiencing any moisture related issues with the factory HID set-up.....your best bet would be to simply replace everything with the new aftermarket replacement kits which are available for about $100. Check the "DIY" sticky for installation tips or pay a local electronics shop to do the work.

 

More than likely popped a fuse, I've seen Hid setups burn fuses when they go bad.
Looking at the diagram the DRL has a few fuses tied to it.
Start with the simple stuff, check all fuses with a test light preferably.

 

once a moisture problem always a moisture problem!
Installing USED parts from another car with same issue = waste of time and cash

installing modern technology in its place = totally worth the 60 to 100 USD!
and the parts and connectors are waterproof!
See any of the dozens of low beam threads on here for 2 good suppliers

reseal lens edge externally with silicone seal, the problem fixed!

 

I don't know your exact install BUT doesn't the DRL use the high beams?

our HID low beams run at full power when on
they fail when moisture drips out of housing onto ballast and gets in- kills it- fries igniter may take bulb too- that's ok kit has 2 new bulbs and the amount of light and color you get compared to 10 year old, wow

Suggest standard 35 watt `kit` ( its a simple cut splice ballast power leads to new ballast, and play- no need for extra relay or other wiring) and 5000K color bulb to best see the road with

 

I think you have a HID problem that's not DRL-related.

On my Canadian 2000 TL and 2004 MDX, the DRLs are the high beams, but at a lower wattage. Low beams (HID on my TL and halogens on MDX) are not affected or used by the DRL module (though, I'll have to break out my service manual to be sure there's no connection).

What you're experiencing sounds like classic HID symptoms, but the dealership confused you by mentioning the DRL module. I've had weird stuff happen with my HIDs this year (after 14 years of constant use, not a surprise), so I just replaced it with aftermarket HID bulbs and ballasts from HIDExtra. Tons of threads and discussions about going this route (most posts are from 01tl4tl, ). While I was diagnosing my HID problem, I can hear the ballast/igniter clicking away with the driver door open and me leaning in to the cabin to turn on the lights, so I wouldn't be surprised if you could hear this clicking while sitting in the driver's seat.

I've also had weird stuff happen with the MDX's DRL module and resoldering the DRL module fixed it (a common problem/fix). There's an indicator light that turns on if the DRL module detects a problem. If that indicator light hasn't turned on, chances are that it's not the DRL module. Also, turn on the car outside. Ignore the HIDs. Are the DRLs (ie. high beams) on? Both bulbs working? If so, turn on your lights on full and flick on high beams. Still working, but brighter now? It's not your DRL module.

 

Thanks Guys. Yes, the 2003 CDM DRL's used the high beam bulbs at low wattage.

Both highbeam bulbs work but only at low output. Seems even lower than normal DRL used to be. Flick to high-beam... doesn't work. Stays at low power. Maybe that's why the dealer mentioned the DRL unit. Might also be a corroded ground, but most of the connections on this car are fantastic... little to no corrosion. I doubt it's the ground.

I hate starting a job and not being able to finish it the same day, so I'm going to shotgun it with new parts and attack it step by step on one day to figure out the actual problem. The combination switch is not feeling good, either. I get good OE parts prices, so it doesn't hurt too badly, and I don't mind having spares left over.

What do you think of black urethane from a local autoglass shop to seal the headlights instead of clear silicone?

I appreciate the referral to the US based HID places. In case my ballast is fried, I'll be stopping into lightdepot.ca (on my way to the dealership) to pick up the lowbeam D2R HID kit and might as well do a foglight HID while I'm at it. I used their kits on my Subaru rally lights and they've worked flawlessly, exposed at the front of the vehicle.

The aftermarket fog light housing replacements I got off Ebay came with cheesy 35w replacements instead of the "OE" replacement they advertised.

 

That's actually decent prices for a local place. I used HIDExtra because there was a discount and the great reviews and instructions on this forum. Wasn't charged extra duties, etc. so it actually worked out slightly less than lightdepot.ca, but I'll keep that place in mind for the future. That ballast and connections look exactly like the kit I got from HIDExtra (except for the labels).

Re: DRL, if you have a multimeter, there's a page in the service manual leading you through a diagnostic of the DRL module to determine if it's a ground, fuse, relay, continuity, etc. problem. Let me know if you're interested, and I can dig it up. However, I think any problem with the DRL module will turn on the DRL indicator light, which is why I'm still a bit doubtful if the DRL indicator light isn't on.

Regardless, it's very common to replace your HID and need to resolder your DRL module with the age of your TL. Even if it turns out to be one and not the other, you're probably living on borrowed time with the other component.

Heck, it could be BOTH a HID and DRL module problem...

 

I just had the exact same issue. The weird issues with the fog lights and DRL's/highs might be because they run off / to the same relay as the LS headlight - I think that's what the wiring diagram showed anyway. When the fuse goes, fogs and highs get messed up, which were some of my symptoms as well.

Good info in the posts above. I ran through most of the diagnostic that was mentioned above, but before you do that....

maybe just check power to your LS ballast first - easy to do without taking bumper off. put a new fuse in first =) if you're getting power to that point, then a bad ballast is pretty much confirmed.

From your comment on the moisture problem, I'd hope it's as simple as a bad ballast.

 

Okay, confirmed, combination switch was responsible for Fog Lights no longer working. That's all I changed and they work again.

I siliconed two new light housings and they're drying now.. I'll pull off the old ones and keep them as spares.

LS fuse wasn't blown when I started, but now it is. Ooops.

And, excuse my language, but WTFBBQ?!!? Torx security screws protecting HID bulbs... I forget that EVERY TIME I start a headlight job and have to borrow that special driver bit from my neighbour. BOO!

Thanks for the help, guys. Forging onwards.

 

Yup, now that the switch is fixed, driver's side ballast is popping fuses. Converting to aftermarket ballasts tomorrow.

Who has a link to a good aftermarket into OEM retrofit thread? The pictures don't work for me on most of the ones I found.

What did you do to seal the big hole on the bottom after the OEM ballast is removed? I was thinking of using double sided tape on the new ballast to seal it, but I haven't test fit it yet. Then drill through the cover on the back to pass the wires through and seal it with silicone when I was done.

 

there should be a rubber grommet (may have to buy) you pass the wires thru the original hole
leave some air gap so heat has an escape- these bulbs run HOT HOT HOT!!!!

moisture in lens always leads to failure of ballast and or igniter, best replacement is modern aftermarket--don't buy the cheapest thing- use common sense and see what others are using

there are several threads on ballast kit replacement-with pics
ck the main and problem sections- just scroll down the pages, and the diy should have one

 

you got new bulbs with the kit right? ignitors, power connector to bulb,
and between 4300K and 6000k color bulbs?

 

I saw a thread with a guy passing it through a rubber grommet on the back of the housing. Must have been from a different year. My 2003 doesn't have that grommet... the igniter connected into the ballast that plugged the bottom of the lens. And then power went into the ballast with a clip connector. On my year, the ballast itself is the pass through.

I'm pretty sure the housing has a vent near the bottom, so overheating shouldn't be an issue.

I'll keep browsing.

 

Yup, new D2R 4300K bulbs, new slim ballasts. Aimed tonight to 27" cutoff height at 25' (like the bulb height) I did screw up the fog light order. Bought a 9006 kit for the fogs with wiring harness (since I'm not impressed with Acura's wire sizes.) Install and test went perfect, then I tried to insert them into the fog housing... DOH! Forgot that I bought aftermarket fog replacements that are H8 with a conversion wire to stock 9006 harness. Sigh! H8 bulbs on the way.

Before you criticize the dirt... it's an 11 year old car with 230k that gets Krown rust treatment every year for the Greater Toronto Area salt spray. Dirty Little Secret: City dwelling Canadians can't drive in an inch of snow, so they salt the hell out of the roads. Lucky it's only this much dirt.

Driver's side low beam ballast mount position. Bolt + double sided tape.




On the passenger side, someone at the factory got generous with the panel glue, so the ballast wouldn't fit lengthwise. It hurt my OCD to do this, but I had to angle it. Off camera, but tap into the factory wiring was soldered, shrink wrapped, and then electrical taped. Bare butt connectors in a snowy winter environment are for butt holes. Or at least non ralliests.




Used the washer bottle mounting bolt on the passenger side and double sided tape to secure the new fog HID ballast.




Used the resonator mounting bolt on the driver's side and double sided tape to secure the new fog HID ballast. There are factory body grounds behind the rad support on driver's and passenger's side of the rad. Used those for the harness grounds.




I siliconed the hell out of this new Acura OE housing after my driver side TYC aftermarket leaked like crazy and burnt out the OE ballast in less than a year. Used a 1/2" grommet for the bulb connector wire.




Passenger side with OE ballast hole plugged. Should have picked up some plastic glue material for the plug, but only had Silicone II on hand so used that. Plastic piece is from a polypropylene place mat from RCSS. Use an Ikea cutting board or whatever you want. This is a TYC aftermarket housing. Unlike the Acura OE housing, the TYC comes with a gasket for the OE ballast and an HID back cover. Optics aren't as good as the OE Acura, but they're fair. Had a broken lower middle mounting tab on my first TYC, and this is the warranty replacement. Fair overall, but I went OE with my current purchse.



Hit a snag with the Fog HID wiring harness. On the passenger side, the OE plug was wired as indicated in the diagram, on the driver's side the wires were reversed. Had to force the relay trigger pickup connecter in backwards and then tape it together. It's fantastically tight on it's own, but always have a backup plan.



Smartest move ever: Order the factory manual when you order the car. Honestly, I prefer the organization and format of the Subaru manuals: Go online and download all you can in 72 hours. The whole thing is PDF searchable.



Ordered the H8 bulbs for the fogs and should be in next weekend when I'm back from Boston. Wife is ready for shortened daytime hours.