Depreservation Suggestions
#1
Thread Starter
I'm stock and hating it.
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 620
Likes: 4
From: Central Cali
Depreservation Suggestions
Okay well not really depreservation, more like been gone a lil more than 6 months and I know she is gonna need some love. I still got a month or so to go but I am ready to come back to the states! oh yea.. 00 tlp a lil maybe... 225xxx its been so long i dont remember.
Unfortunately I didnt do much to preserve her. I just changed the oil and put her in storage. This is what I got on my list so feel free to add to it.
1. Oil Change
2. I think i need tires(cant remember)
3. Probably coolant and trans fluid
4. Plugs
5. definitely wash and wax
6. new pads and rotors
7. thats all i have so far.........
Unfortunately I didnt do much to preserve her. I just changed the oil and put her in storage. This is what I got on my list so feel free to add to it.
1. Oil Change
2. I think i need tires(cant remember)
3. Probably coolant and trans fluid
4. Plugs
5. definitely wash and wax
6. new pads and rotors
7. thats all i have so far.........
#5
disconnected batt beats nothing,,not as good as a maintainer but may be ok
Charge it with a machine to get some juice in and be able to start the car,
then drive an hour to fully charge- if its going to take a charge and hold it- that will do it.
coolant is done with the 105 service,,you should be on 2nd timing belt and water pump now, if not--thats your big expense
brakes will have surface rust on rotors which can be hand sanded off with 120-150 grit wet/dry sandpaper- the black stuff,,or drive it and keep using brakes at low speed- cleans right off unless severe
but if everything was ok parts wear wise - drive it,,flush brake fluid for good measure
seafoam- throw a can in the gas and let it do its thing
Charge it with a machine to get some juice in and be able to start the car,
then drive an hour to fully charge- if its going to take a charge and hold it- that will do it.
coolant is done with the 105 service,,you should be on 2nd timing belt and water pump now, if not--thats your big expense
brakes will have surface rust on rotors which can be hand sanded off with 120-150 grit wet/dry sandpaper- the black stuff,,or drive it and keep using brakes at low speed- cleans right off unless severe
but if everything was ok parts wear wise - drive it,,flush brake fluid for good measure
seafoam- throw a can in the gas and let it do its thing
#6
Also I would be on notice for any sticking calipers. Might pull slightly to one side. Chk. wheels for excess heat after a short drive. You can sometimes detect drag by putting the transm. in neutral on a very slight grade (possibly the driveway, for instance ) & observe that it rolls freely.
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#8
make it easy on your self, hook up the battery and try and start the car. If it starts then great if it won't then hook up a battery charger over night and and try tomorrow.
you'll have three issues to be concerned about all the other BS in the thread is normal maintenance crap to start with and shit doesn't wear out sitting in a barn, garage or out doors so worring about it is a waist of time unless you know for a fact something was wrong when you put it in storage.
issue one dead battery, hook it up if the lights and buzzers sound normal give the starter a shot and see if it'll start if it does let run for a half hour or so at idle
issue two is fuel problems, if you used stabil in the tank or a simular product then not much to worry about but it might run a little rough for a tank or two untill the varnish and gummy crap is flushed from the system, adding a can of seafoam first if you didn't use anything in the fuel and it'll take a little longer before the engine idles normally.
Isssue three is rusted rotors not a mojor problem you just need to be carefull at first untill the rust is knocked off before you can count on them working normally but couple trips around the block braking easy will clean them up pretty quick and gradually judging the stopping power as you go is the safe way about.
the odds that you need new plugs are slim, if so you needed them before hand, same with changing the oil and brakes that isn't needed you just changed the oil before you left so it should be fine, rotors will be rusted but again if they need replaced they needed it before it went in to storage.
charge battery,
wash and wax
drive it to remove rust buildup on the rotors and to get rid of the old fuel and call it a day.
Now after a couple tanks of premium fuel if it isn't idling normal then that is when you need to worry about checking the plugs and fluids or what ever else maybe causing the problem
you'll have three issues to be concerned about all the other BS in the thread is normal maintenance crap to start with and shit doesn't wear out sitting in a barn, garage or out doors so worring about it is a waist of time unless you know for a fact something was wrong when you put it in storage.
issue one dead battery, hook it up if the lights and buzzers sound normal give the starter a shot and see if it'll start if it does let run for a half hour or so at idle
issue two is fuel problems, if you used stabil in the tank or a simular product then not much to worry about but it might run a little rough for a tank or two untill the varnish and gummy crap is flushed from the system, adding a can of seafoam first if you didn't use anything in the fuel and it'll take a little longer before the engine idles normally.
Isssue three is rusted rotors not a mojor problem you just need to be carefull at first untill the rust is knocked off before you can count on them working normally but couple trips around the block braking easy will clean them up pretty quick and gradually judging the stopping power as you go is the safe way about.
the odds that you need new plugs are slim, if so you needed them before hand, same with changing the oil and brakes that isn't needed you just changed the oil before you left so it should be fine, rotors will be rusted but again if they need replaced they needed it before it went in to storage.
charge battery,
wash and wax
drive it to remove rust buildup on the rotors and to get rid of the old fuel and call it a day.
Now after a couple tanks of premium fuel if it isn't idling normal then that is when you need to worry about checking the plugs and fluids or what ever else maybe causing the problem
Last edited by rcb2000; 02-14-2011 at 01:34 PM.
#10
Thread Starter
I'm stock and hating it.
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 620
Likes: 4
From: Central Cali
Yea but i was told about the acids and all the build up in the fluids and blah blah blah. it is sitting in a storage unit coverd. Plus its in Fresno which is the valley known for dry scortching heat. Not a lot of rain at all. Only 2 or 3 months. I just wanted to do as much but not too much to make sure things are good. I needed to replace rotors before as well as brakes. The oil.. I just assumed since it sat for so long. That oil has less than 10 miles on it. I need tires just cause they were wearing close.
So for sure im doing seafoam because I didnt put anything in the tank.
So for sure im doing seafoam because I didnt put anything in the tank.
#11
1/2 can seafoam in the oil and run 30 minutes before change- can help any moisture that did find its way in,,back out
flush brake fluid for same reason- hygroscopic action sucks moisture from the air
not to be confused with hydroscopic,, which is the abilty to see underwater~
note: flush brake fluid BEFORE pads/rotor change, so you dont backwash and stir up crud in calipers- get it out first then do your work safely
flush brake fluid for same reason- hygroscopic action sucks moisture from the air
not to be confused with hydroscopic,, which is the abilty to see underwater~
note: flush brake fluid BEFORE pads/rotor change, so you dont backwash and stir up crud in calipers- get it out first then do your work safely
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