I'm looking in the owners manual and it says
"Only use Genuine Honda antifreeze/coolant."

Is this as necessary as Genuine Honda Trans Fluid? Or will the green stuff at the store work? mercon? dexcon?

Also said
"Turn the ignition ON (II).
Turn the temperature control dial to 90°F/32°C.
Turn off the ignition."

When it says turn in ignition off, does it mean turn it to (I) so that the fan is still running?

 

I was told by a member on the CL forum to use Prestone 50/50. i haven't had a problem. A lot of people will tell you to use Honda coolant only. It's your call. II on the ignition is "ON" while "I" is accessory. If I'm not mistaken the fans only run when the ignition is in the "II" position. Hope this helps.

 

No, it means turn it off. (where you could pull the key out) They want the valve for the heater core wide open.

Also pull the coolant drain on the back of the block to get all coolant out.

I use the honda stuff. Its not that much more than the store bought brands.

 

^ ya i saw that, "Loosen the drain bolt at the rear of the engine cylinder block."
another thread said take off the L/F tire to reach it easier.

 

Sorry if this is off topic.... Can you let the coolant just drain to the side walk?

 

NO not anywhere!
and you live where it will directly reach the BAY and kill fish and create a HAZMAT situation they may even track you down for- no kidding

Coolant (like oil) must be captured and contained, soak up spills with grease sweep or kitty litter immedialty- that can be plastic bagged and thrown in the regular trash once it dries out

The local Hazerdous Waste place will take it for free, they often have curbside pickup with garbage day= call your company

Parts stores will take used oil for free (by law) and repair shops that change coolant will take yours for free too

Buy a dedicated drain pan at any parts store- old coolant can be stored in the jugs the new stuff came in, or plastic milk jugs or similar plastic with a closeable non spill cap

I think its easier to remove the RF wheel and go in from the side
rather than lose 3 layers of skin trying to reach vertically between the exhaust and cv -but thats just me

If you are changing coolant- is it due for the 105 water pump timing belt job?
or changing based on 5 years old or? ??

 

Just what I thought. This green color stuff is "green" for a purpose.
The coolant on my 2002 TL-S has been replaced by dealer during the timing belt service at 100k. I pretty sure they know how to dispose it.
This is good information.

Thanks.

 

~at least they know how to store it safely and pay someone else to take it away

 

I wish my 99 had 105k more like 160k
I had the water pump changed under warranty and the timing belt done at the same time for parts only, no labor. Nice when your dealership's owner also owns an Acura store.

I just want to change it, think its been close to 5yrs.

 

I suggest 5 years as good time for coolant replacement - better safe than have the additives break down and the mix goes acidic in an aluminum home

Its important to get the rear engine block drain open and let all the coolant out of the engine, there is a lot in there as well as the radiator - and the heater core (a mini radiator) has to be open by putting cabin temp to Hot so it gives up its contents

Note- When the heater is not used- like in summer- thats bad for it to just sit while the rest of the coolant circulates
Open it by using heat for at least a few minutes- 10 is good- once a month or more

The ac also needs to be run once a month to keep the seals conditioned- there is oil in the system to keep its parts and seals lubricated, but needs running to make it happen.
Use of windshield defrost counts since that kicks on the ac- to dry moisture from the cabin and windshield

 

As long as you are taking care of the car- it may be time for new NGK Iridiums, a seafoam or similar treatment to get the crud out of the engine,
and a 99 would need the EGR port cleaned again (every 75k miles they plug up and 99 only has 1!)

 

Some of these info should be in the DIY.

 

you mean its not ???

Kris cleaned up the diy threads recently
if you see one missing or needs better info- send him a PM and he will fix it or ask someone to do an update on the DIY

 

I checked and it's not in there. Sent Kris a PM.

 

i did the seafoam last summer, plugs 2 summers ago. i have an extra set of plugs that i was planning on throwing in after i clean the egr.

when i clean the egr do i need to replace all gaskets or just the TB?

 

seafoam once a year/15k miles is normal schedule
do it again a few days before the plug change so they start with a clean workspace

your 99 only has 1 egr port- check the diy for gasket needs
Might be able to do it from the top, but a thorough job would be removal of the intake and the solvent tank or carb cleaner-toothbrush method
Check the acura dealer method- found in the diy

Anyone been able to reuse everything-- except the TB to Manifold gasket?

 

FYI- the egr port itself is an 8mm diameter metal sleeve- assuming you had the recall on 99s egr port done, where they cleaned and then installed this tube- --

maybe it was to reduce rough edges catching so much stuff, but it still plugs easily
Every 75k miles on a 6 egr port 2000+ TL is average time to need cleaning, according to 275k+ miler in a single TL- fsttyms1, so a single port,,, even sooner would be a good guess

 

was it a "recall"?
i thought that it was only done if your car was throwing codes or rough idling.

 

for usa cars in the usa- the 99 has a recall to install that 8mm sleeve in the EGR port of the intake manifold, and clean the intake runners in the solvent tank

You can verify if yours was ever done by calling 1-800-382-2238x5 - same usa disclaimer
They only do the recall fix once- then its up to you to do next time, but at least the sleeve is there and cleans out easily, the recall fix has to enlarge the current port diameter and install the sleeve