So, should be a nice weekend up here and I want to tackle the front rotors and pads.

From the DIY, it looks like the hardest part is getting the screws out that hold the rotors to the hub. The DIY suggests using WD-40 and impact driver (which I don't have). Buddy at work here suggested using a screw extractor (which he used for his Civic rotors which also had the screws).

Just wondering for those of you here who changed your rotors yourself...what did you guys do? I'm assuming a regular screwdriver or even socket wrench w/ screwdriver attachment won't do it?

Thanks for any feedback.

 

i did my rotors last week and the screws tend to rust in. The screw extractor would work the best cause the screws dont even need to be there. The tire holds the rotor in place as well as the screws.

 

search it, many topics on rotors/brake pads, watch out for 01TL4 iwht his racingbrake propoganda

 

I drilled mine out.. So i never put them back in. i hope thats okay..

 

D'oh
You drive like me and you need RB rotors Hawk pads too!

BUY the 10 dollar Impact Screwdriver at parts store.
It takes the hit of hammer and amplfies it as it turns the screw.
2 or 3 big hits will do it
Or buy a carbide tip drill bit and have at it
They are not required for reassembly- just ease of holding everything
together for assembly at the factory

 

Impact Screwdriver ftw, one of those must have tools.

01tl4tl, I don't understand how you drive hard on those roads you posted with stock suspension. Unless you have some amazing setup?

 

Don't breathe in the dust

 

If the Impact Screwdriver don't work... use an automotive chisel and a hammer and hit the screw at an angle so it can release... that's what I do... it works everytime...

 

Impact drivers are cheap, and very handy.

I took out my Legend screws a few years ago- no problems. Screw extractors are cheap, too, but they tear up the screws.

Big tip-

Tighten the wheel lug nuts correctly and in sequence, and maybe you won't re-warp for a while (until the tire shop does it).

Tip #2- Put anti sieze compound on the screws when you re-install.

 

PiZaul

Its all about finesse and car control!
Thats why I suggest everyone attend track day schools as much as possible
Its cheap insurance by developing awareness of the cars limits
I practice apex and entry-exit points every time I get in the car
Always looking for "the line" thru every corner
Smooth is the rule, sometimes slow in makes for fast out! Hence the good brakes
Want the really sick news? The pics from Yosemite Natl Park road,
Thats on the winter tires Michelin Energy Plus 205-60-16s
Just wait till the camera mount that fits under the passenger headrest comes in
and the Yoke A00s go on. Get some real time in car video

In all seriousness- the Cusco type 1 frame stiffner and upper brace really flattened the car out and was an easy install.

On the list is a day at MrHeelToe shop for a custom mod of Tein CS adjustable shocks with the electric dampner controller for instant on the road front/rear adjustment with 3 presets.
Mine will be wife-freeway-FUN

Safe driving everyone!

 

impact driver FTW!!! best 13 bucks I have spent...used it for more than rotors too!

 

Thanks for the tips guys. Sounds like I'll go and get an impact driver then. Only problem is, the cheapest one I can find around here is $36 (so around US $31). Have to do a little more shopping, see if I can get a cheaper one.

Thanks again.

 

my stearing wheel shakes when I break from 50+ mph down to 20mph ... wheels are balanced .... time for new rotators too? I rotate my wheels and torque them to 80

 

24 bucks at sears for a craftsman. Check the auto parts stores as well

 

autozone was 10 bucks harbor freight was 8 and 5 for the caliper tool

Since they are more where GQ lives- try the local parts store - ask if they have a
free loaner tool program or rental- most do for expensive tools- you just leave a deposit
even a tool rental store?

 

Actually...I just checked another place (Princess Auto for the Ontario crowd)...3/8" impact driver for $10! The 1/2" driver is $15, so I'll stick w/ the 3/8". This place is known for cheap tools...don't know why I didn't think of it sooner.

Gonna pick it up tomorrow, so I can have it for the weekend. I hope the DIY posted in this forum is sufficient to get it done.

 

Used a hammer and screwdriver....hit and turn...it will come out. when u put it back in put some grease on it

 

just remember u get what u pay for, i spent 200 on my snap-on set, best thing to do is get a hammer and a punch, put the bottom of the punch on the head of the screw, and hit the punch real hard to shock the rust and screw. then use the impact driver and hammer to get it out, it saves u time...and saves your phillips bit....do 1 side at a time...if u take both calipers off...and push in a piston, u have a RISK of pushing the other piston out of the caliper...=)

 

Good point 3ghy

Always keep one side caliper fully attached or LIKELY to push the other side right out!
Use the 5 dollar caliper piston tool that uses an old pad and a reverse c clamp type tool to quickly and perfectly retract piston into caliper

 

its weird. common sense tells us that once the wheels are locked it. the screws that hold the rotors become obsolete. yet again, it is the work of many extremely intelligent automotive engineers that designed it to be there.

i went with leaving the screws because the mind of the engineers outweigh my common thinking.

 

how does the caliper come off? im sure when im there, itll be easy, but can someone type a quick howto for my peace of mind?

 

there are pic threads on brake job,
2 bolts hold the caliper to mounts
2 more hold that bracket, if you are replacing rotors it comes off too
Clean the new rotors with brake clean
Use brake anti squeal grease on anything that has contact wear showing,
where the caliper moves basically

 

Just tried doing this myself a few days ago. The screws were on so bad, I stripped the screws (yes, i had an impact driver) Ended up taking it to a shop to get done.

 

i rather leave the screw in also, keeps the rotor nice and square to the hub

 

i can't even get that stupid ass caliper off. any suggestions? wd-40 didn't work either.

maybe an impact GUN will help.. suggestions?

 

Stomping on a 2 foot bar worked for me. One bolt was completely frozen solid...vice grips and all, so I just lifted it up to get the pads out.

 

i think the length of my car was 1/2' or 1' and i stomped on it... i should get a new bar.... grrreat

 

Slip another bar over the one you have and push
The caliper to bracket is 36 ft lbs
the bracket to hub is 80 ft lbs
just like the lug nuts -tight!!!

 

3Ghybrid

The wheel is what actually holds the rotor on and square to the hub
The factory assembly line uses the screws because its faster to assemble and travel thru the factory wheel-less until the last stage

If you stripped screws with the impact driver you needed to hit it harder and hold tight against the screw

 

 

01tl4tl fears not the of those with Friction Deprivation Syndrome
he wears fireproof racesuit at computer

Propoganda-isnt that leaflets the enemy drops on your town-
says the war is good- long live whoever??

Factual Information from one who has become a
"Disciple of the Temple of RacingBrake" (located across from the Temple of Vtec)
well thats just spreading the good word my friends!!