changing out steering fluid.
10-08-2007, 10:30 PM
#1
changing out steering fluid.
How can this be done? Just take a turkey baster and take the old fluid out? Going to be doing this on my car and friends corolla. I will be using Honda fluid and I will use the Royal Purple steering fluid in the corolla.
10-08-2007, 10:54 PM
#2
DND
what is it with you and this obsession with oil/fluids?? lol
The PS is simple- IIRC fsttyms directions were get under car, locate ps lines at bottem, remove line, drain fluid, replace line, fill ps, start car- turn steering lock to lock
Drain fluid again
Refill, lock to lock a few times- that should bleed the air out for you
Check fluid level!!!!
Test drive
recheck fluid level
Done
I suggest a small piece of cardboard under the wheels- this allows easier turning and saves strain on the PS pump. The system is designed to turn the car while rolling, thats why it protest on tight turn out of parking spot, crank the wheel- load the suspension and steering- the wheel angle is changing etc etc
Also keeps black marks off the driveway
what is it with you and this obsession with oil/fluids?? lol
The PS is simple- IIRC fsttyms directions were get under car, locate ps lines at bottem, remove line, drain fluid, replace line, fill ps, start car- turn steering lock to lock
Drain fluid again
Refill, lock to lock a few times- that should bleed the air out for you
Check fluid level!!!!
Test drive
recheck fluid level
Done
I suggest a small piece of cardboard under the wheels- this allows easier turning and saves strain on the PS pump. The system is designed to turn the car while rolling, thats why it protest on tight turn out of parking spot, crank the wheel- load the suspension and steering- the wheel angle is changing etc etc
Also keeps black marks off the driveway
10-08-2007, 11:25 PM
#3
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
DND
what is it with you and this obsession with oil/fluids?? lol
The PS is simple- IIRC fsttyms directions were get under car, locate ps lines at bottem, remove line, drain fluid, replace line, fill ps, start car- turn steering lock to lock
Drain fluid again
Refill, lock to lock a few times- that should bleed the air out for you
Check fluid level!!!!
Test drive
recheck fluid level
Done
I suggest a small piece of cardboard under the wheels- this allows easier turning and saves strain on the PS pump. The system is designed to turn the car while rolling, thats why it protest on tight turn out of parking spot, crank the wheel- load the suspension and steering- the wheel angle is changing etc etc
Also keeps black marks off the driveway
what is it with you and this obsession with oil/fluids?? lol
The PS is simple- IIRC fsttyms directions were get under car, locate ps lines at bottem, remove line, drain fluid, replace line, fill ps, start car- turn steering lock to lock
Drain fluid again
Refill, lock to lock a few times- that should bleed the air out for you
Check fluid level!!!!
Test drive
recheck fluid level
Done
I suggest a small piece of cardboard under the wheels- this allows easier turning and saves strain on the PS pump. The system is designed to turn the car while rolling, thats why it protest on tight turn out of parking spot, crank the wheel- load the suspension and steering- the wheel angle is changing etc etc
Also keeps black marks off the driveway
Giving my car a fresh start after 100k....
Thanks Tom.
10-08-2007, 11:30 PM
#4
I know the feeling- getting the 100k bug at 78 based on age and spirited driving
Did the coolant a few weeks ago, PS fluid is on my list next, gotta be safe for track days
Did the coolant a few weeks ago, PS fluid is on my list next, gotta be safe for track days
Exactly what I was thinking before I opened this
10-09-2007, 07:47 AM
#6
Senior Moderator
DOnt need to get under the car. Taking the line of the PS res should be done from up top
10-09-2007, 07:47 AM
#7
Senior Moderator
Dont need to get under the car. Taking the line of the PS res should be done from up top
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10-10-2007, 10:14 PM
#8
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Procedures from the service manual for 99-01 TL:
1. Raise the reservoir, then disconnect the return hose (one of the two hoses in front of the reservoir) to DRAIN the reservoir.
2. Connect a hose of suitable diameter to the disconnected return hose, and put the hose end in a container.
3. Start the engine, let it run at idle, and turn the steering wheel from lock to lock several times. When fluid stops running out of the hose, shut off the engine. Discard the fluid.
4. Reinstalle the return hose on the reservoir.
5. Fill the reservoir to the upper level line.
6. Start the engine and run it at fast idel, then turn the steering from lock-to-lock several times to bleed air from the system.
7. Recheck the fluid level and add more if necessary
My concern about these procedures is that the P/S pump will run without any fluid (would it damage the pump???) and air must be bleeded out of the system. I think it can be improved as follows:
1. Instead of draining the reservoir, we plug the hole of the reservoir where the hose was disconnected.
3. Add new fluid to the reservoir while catching the dirty fluid from the disconnected return hose. Stop when the fluid that comes out of the return hose looks clean.
1. Raise the reservoir, then disconnect the return hose (one of the two hoses in front of the reservoir) to DRAIN the reservoir.
2. Connect a hose of suitable diameter to the disconnected return hose, and put the hose end in a container.
3. Start the engine, let it run at idle, and turn the steering wheel from lock to lock several times. When fluid stops running out of the hose, shut off the engine. Discard the fluid.
4. Reinstalle the return hose on the reservoir.
5. Fill the reservoir to the upper level line.
6. Start the engine and run it at fast idel, then turn the steering from lock-to-lock several times to bleed air from the system.
7. Recheck the fluid level and add more if necessary
My concern about these procedures is that the P/S pump will run without any fluid (would it damage the pump???) and air must be bleeded out of the system. I think it can be improved as follows:
1. Instead of draining the reservoir, we plug the hole of the reservoir where the hose was disconnected.
3. Add new fluid to the reservoir while catching the dirty fluid from the disconnected return hose. Stop when the fluid that comes out of the return hose looks clean.
10-10-2007, 10:27 PM
#9
either drain and refill or do the book method which sounds better than my memery
- dont re-invent the wheel
Adding while it drains wont circulate the rack- that holds more fluid and is where the action happens
The full lock turns after refill make the system self bleed
If the book says its ok for the minute it takes- its ok
Dont try that trick with the transmission!!!
Kris- I did mention i hadn't actually dome this yet- going off memory of your tales
So,, I follow the lines- back to the firewall at the steering shaft, or somewhere else??
Better to know now than figure out in the dark!
- dont re-invent the wheel
Adding while it drains wont circulate the rack- that holds more fluid and is where the action happens
The full lock turns after refill make the system self bleed
If the book says its ok for the minute it takes- its ok
Dont try that trick with the transmission!!!
Kris- I did mention i hadn't actually dome this yet- going off memory of your tales
So,, I follow the lines- back to the firewall at the steering shaft, or somewhere else??
Better to know now than figure out in the dark!
10-10-2007, 11:07 PM
#10
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At the end of step 3 from the service manual, there's no fluid at all in the system. This doesn't sound right to me.
Additional info on P/S fluid capacity - the reservoir: 0.4 liter (0.42 qt), the system: 1.1 liter (1.16 qt). If we just suck the dirty fluid out of the reservoir, refill with new fluid, drive around and repeat the process 3 times (similar to tranny fluid change) there will be only 26% dirty fluid remained in the system.
Additional info on P/S fluid capacity - the reservoir: 0.4 liter (0.42 qt), the system: 1.1 liter (1.16 qt). If we just suck the dirty fluid out of the reservoir, refill with new fluid, drive around and repeat the process 3 times (similar to tranny fluid change) there will be only 26% dirty fluid remained in the system.
10-11-2007, 08:51 AM
#11
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by TVD
At the end of step 3 from the service manual, there's no fluid at all in the system. This doesn't sound right to me.
Additional info on P/S fluid capacity - the reservoir: 0.4 liter (0.42 qt), the system: 1.1 liter (1.16 qt). If we just suck the dirty fluid out of the reservoir, refill with new fluid, drive around and repeat the process 3 times (similar to tranny fluid change) there will be only 26% dirty fluid remained in the system.
Additional info on P/S fluid capacity - the reservoir: 0.4 liter (0.42 qt), the system: 1.1 liter (1.16 qt). If we just suck the dirty fluid out of the reservoir, refill with new fluid, drive around and repeat the process 3 times (similar to tranny fluid change) there will be only 26% dirty fluid remained in the system.
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