yosarian

Last week as I was driving to work my CEL came on. I pulled it over, unscrewed the gas cap, and smelling gas, I let it sit for a few minutes before putting it back on and turning it until I heard the "click click click click" sound. I must have rotated it 10 times.

Started the car and the light was still on. I looked at the gas gauge and it said I was at about 7/8th full. So I called my mechanic, described to him what happened and what I did. He said it may be an emissions problem, would have to check the codes to see what the error codes were, but that the car was drivable and he could get me in next week (now this week) to take a look.

So I went back on the road and did my normal driving. Friday night, with my tank near empty, I went to my gas station to fill up. As I turned into the lot, the CEL turned off! Weird. So I filled up with Premium (93?) and went on my way.

Saturday morning I went out to do errands and when I had backed out of my drive way and began driving down my street the CEL came back on.

Has anyone had this happen to them before? Or have any idea what could be causing it?

wng

I've read that some sensors don't clear the CEL right away, but require you to drive a certain amount without the problem before clearing the light. In some cases, they require two drives of over x distance without the condition before clearing the CEL. This was just general info on the CEL and OBD codes, so I'm not sure if it applies to the TLs/Acuras/Hondas. I was looking it up for a friend with a Suburu that had a CEL when he didn't turn the cap on tightly but didn't understand why it didn't turn off right away when he re-tightened it, but turned off a few drives later.

#1 cause of CEL, as I understand it, is the gas cap not tightened at least three clicks EVERY time. It even says so right on the cap "if not tightened 3 clicks, check engine light may turn on".

spoka

iTrader: (6)

try pulling the code first and seeing what the result of the issue is

juanclopez2786

iTrader: (3)

could be an evap code. check the light when it comes on.

01tl4tl

if you live in the USA take the car to kragen-autozone type shop
They will check the codes for free and tell you what they are

Dont take codes at face value--they are often just clues to the problem
A loose gas cap really messes with the system and takes a few days to self clear.
A bad gas cap seal is a possibile problem in this case

3 clicks is all you need- its a spring loaded catch that makes the noise AFTER the correct torque/tightness has been reached--3 clicks or 10- its the same tightness

Watch your fuel fill level- dont top off!!-first click of the pump only!
During the heat of the day gas expands and vapors are forced to a charcoal storage cannister (most cars) and sucked back into the intake when the engine is started
If you overfill the tank you can get raw gas to that filter and plug it up.
Big problems~

yosarian

When I spoke both to a co-worker who is a gear head like me and my housemate who used to work a a mechanic in an Acura performance shop in Ohio, the "bad seal" comment was the first suggestion when I described this problem.

I'll keep this in mind next time I get gas.

I only get $30 each week, so when the pump clicks that's it. But I didn't know about the charcoal storage canister and the issue with the raw gas plugging up the filter. Would this something I would need to replace or will it drain by it self as I empty the tank?

Thanks for your help! I'll update when the problem is fixed.

01tl4tl

if you manage to saturate a charcoal filter, it absorbs the raw gas so its replacement
BUT
its very unlikely thats whats happened to you

Now 2 trusted people and a guy on azine say to look at the gas cap- If the seal is bad -cracked or torn or deformed in some way- replace it

If not sure, go to a smog test station, they have a pressure tester for caps or will be able to tell you if its ok visually
Kragen type stores should have the same tool or be able to look at the cap and know if its bad
Try the easy cheap approach first!