ok guy listen, my 99 TL is 167xxxx miles i have been use Castrol full SYNTEC 10w-30s for like 2 year now scene i got the car, well is cost like 7 buck a quart, so i when to auto zone and try to switch up to mobil 5000, well the guy i shouldn't switch like that because all the seal or condition and all. What ya think? and yeah did any one hear that Castrol just came out a new line of oil? it call the Castrol Edge, and they clam to last about 15,000 Mile.

 

I think they have a valid point there! Since your TL is over 100k miles, i don't think it is a good idea to switch back to the conventional oils now. However you might want to check out your local walmart, they nomrally have 5 gal jug of Mobli 1 or Castrol Syntec for 20-25 bucks.

 

It's perfectly fine to switch oil types at any time. It will not cause any harm to your engine, contrary to the old wives tales.

Castrol EDGE 5w-30 and 10w-30 just launched last month, and you can get it for around $35 for a five quart jug at WalMart.

I personally use conventional oil and a quality filter and change it at 7500 mile intervals. Synthetic oils are not required for the OEM drain intervals, but if you do decide to stay with synthetic, you are not limited to Castrol EDGE.

 

There is NO reason you cant switch. The not switching is an old wives tale.

 

For my last oil change, I decided using mobile one, and man does that shit SUCK, felt very upset and cant wait for my next oil change, synthetic is the way to go, if you arent going in the dealer direction!!

 

And what about it sucks?

 

Mobile 1 sucks so you are going to go with synthetic next time???????

 

The performance.....I definitely noticed the difference right away, for example when I pushed on the pedal, my reaction wasnt great as it was with my old oil, as crazy as it sounds, its the truth., to add I took the car on a highway run, thats when i got upset!!! If you come to NY, i'll give you a test drive.....lol

 

YES SIR!! and for spark plugs from reading a thread about NGK plugs running too rich, IM thinking about going with dealer plugs also, i seem to have the same problem.

 

 

Sorry its not the oil. and the OEM plugs are NGK

 

It's fine to switch back and forth as others have already stated.

If anything, synthetic penetrates better so going from conventional to synthetic would potentially cause more leaks, going off the theory of this AutoZone expert's mumbo jumbo.

Bottom line, it's fine.




And for the other guy who said Mobil1 sucked because he could feel the difference in engine response... with that finely tunned sensory skills, you should become a test driver for Mobil.

 

Advance Auto Parts has a special thru March 25: 5 quarts Mobil 1 (any variety including extended performance or high mileage) and a Mobil 1 oil filter for $29.99. Go to www.Mobil1.com and print yourself two $10 rebate forms for 5 quarts (individual or jugs) purchased between April 1 and Auguat 2009.

 

how often you guys recommend changing the oil? every 3000k?

 

I have been using Penzoil Platinum. Its a full synthetic and a 5 quart jug costs me $20 or $25 bucks at wal mart. Has worked great for me so far. Don't notice a difference between it and Mobil 1 which costs a little more. Either way you can't go wrong Mobil 1 is good stuff too.

 

According to Amsoil testing it comes in 2nd place to amsoil. I'd stick with that.

 

im glad im a greasy mechanic mobil 1 4.99 qt thru the wholsaler honda oe filters for 2.50 when we buy a case at the stealer ship

 

Thank you....

It could be a mental thing bro but your not going to be able to tell a difference RIGHT AWAY!! Or anytime for that matter.

 

History: I've put ~75K miles on my 02 TLS in 21months. Currently just over 100K. I thought I knew the car pretty well. Here's my conundrum...

My mechanic shifted their default oil from Castrol to Pennzoil. I wasn't paying attention Monday and instead of the Castrol Blend 5-20, they put in the Pennzoil conventional. A couple hours later when accelerting from 40-70 I got a knocking noise when under hard acceleration (4-6K RPM). Was able to duplicate each time I hit an on-ramp traveling from Blacksburg to DC (and back).

I'm no expert...moved to Castrol in 2000 on the recommendation of an old ASA racer. Never had a problem, don't mind the cost.

Also, how much does the forum feel they save by doing their own oil (including the time and effort to properly dispose of the oil)? Is it easy to do in the driveway w/ car ramps. My last series of cars were 89-94 GM W-bodies...they were difficult to put it nicely.

 

Oil shoundt cause the knock. Have you checked the level?

Changing the oil in the TL can be done without even lifting the car (though it makes it much easier) Every thing is very accessible

 

I use the recommended 5W-20 (It is like water), but I change my oil every 3,000 miles as well. I just installed a Quick Oil Drain Valve, im looking forward to my next oil change so I can try it out.

 

Do you turn the wheel in a certain direction to access the filter/drain plug easier? And plus my car's lowered a little, so I don't really think it would be easy to do this on mine...

 

3k is too often. Why not stick with what the car manufacture recommends (7500)

 

Turn the wheel all the way to the right to access the filter thru the wheel well.

 

not too sure, maybe I will try that. I think I'm used to changing the oil out of my 200k mile Accord, lol.

 

The only thing you can be sure of with 3000 mile change intervals is that you'll be spending a lot more money on oil and filters. And, if you don't do the changes yourself, you will significantly increase the odds that some clown will screw up something during the oil and filter change. (Don't get me going on that topic.)

These engines can go forever using non-synthetic oil changes every 7,500 miles. (Sure, you might want to change more often if you drive in extreme conditions but that would be unusual.)

Or use synthetic and extend your oil change interval beyond 7,500 miles.

I've put nearly 400,000 miles on a Honda that has never seen a drop of synthetic oil and the changes were done at the recommended 7,500 mile interval. That car never had a oil related problem. In fact , it's been incredibly reliable. If I had gone with a 3,000 mile interval I would have needed 130 oil changes instead of 52. That's 78 fewer oil changes. Multiply that by $15 to $30 per oil change at it starts to add up.

The 3,000 mile oil change interval is pushed by those that stand to make money selling supplies and services.

 

Thanks for your insight Bob_F. I do change my oil myself, I wouldn't let the scum at a quick lube place have the pleasure of touching my girl, lol.

I will try the 7,500 interval running the 5W-20. I will check the color and amount of the oil at around 5,000 just to make sure though.

 

Hope I can get a wrench on the drain plug to loosen then the good 'ole torque wrench to tighten....

 

You cannot tell the condition of your oil by looking at the color. Run it the full 7500 miles. I use synthetic and run it the normal 7500 mile intervals and haven't had any issues. I don't even have to add any oil between changes. The oil on the dipstick is in the same spot after 7500 miles every time. If you want to find out what condition your oil is in, go to blackstonelabs.com and order an oil sample kit. When you drain your oil, fill the container, mail it to them with payment, then they'll send you the results via e-mail.

 

I might try that, I gotta check how much it is first. When the detergents in the oil clean out your engine, the nasty particles that float in the oil change its color, making it darker. If the oil is red, you could be getting transmission fluid leaked into your engine somehow. So what can't you tell from the color of your oil?

 

[quote=Bob_F;10699198]

These engines can go forever using non-synthetic oil changes every 7,500 miles. (Sure, you might want to change more often if you drive in extreme conditions but that would be unusual.)

Or use synthetic and extend your oil change interval beyond 7,500 miles.

Forum: Any thoughts on the time interval. If I did 7500 miles, that would be 6-9 months on a normal 12-15K/yr driving schedule. Is the deal about moisture collecting in the oil over time a wives tale also? I've always heard regardless of mileage, change every three months due to oil breakdown. Also, seems like the manufacturer throws everything under the sun to get most folks into the 'extreme conditions' category.

Thanks everyone. I am definitely going to switch our cars over to conventional from blended synthetic.

 

Had the mechanic switch it back to Castrol blended yesterday...knock is still there but a bit quieter (50-75%). Doesn't sound like a pinging detonation(ie timing belt), but I could be off. I'm due for the timing belt by miles and age, so I should just bite the bullet. I had a roomie go 180K before he changed his on a 95 Integra. Just seems like 102K/7yrs is early to show this much wear on the belt that the car is detonating.

 

Don't see any correlation between perceived timing belt wear and detonation... explain that.

 

02-03 TL should use 5W20 ( thinner oil ) not 5w30 ....A thicker oil 5w30 might explain the knocking of the valves not getting enough lubricant .
My 02 Tl does the same knock when using 5w30( when engine 's cold ) .... My personal experience is use the 0W20 from Mobil Syn is the best oil for my car ... no knock . engine idle quiet and save gas ...

 

i like to use 10w-30 all year round even where i live the temp can go down to 5F.

 

You cant tell if its good or bad from the color (other than if it didnt get dark id be worried as the oil isnt doing its job) There is NO way for trans fluid to leak into your oil. Dont worry about the color. Worry about the level before any thing.

Get the oil tested. Its 20 bucks.

 

But wouldn't 0W-20 be TOO thin for our car? I guess the only benefit would be better protection at startup since it's thinner cold...that's about it...unless there's something else I'm missing.

 

so, for higher milage vehicles 100k + 5w20 conventional is ok over synthetic? all this oil talk is making me dizzy

 

sure its fine, but syn offers better protection

 

Cliffs:

- You can mix dino oil with synthetics, it doesn't matter and it won't hurt the engine one bit.

- You CANNOT tell the condition of the oil simply by looking at it. I don't care what your uncle's neighbor's friend's cousin says, you can't. Get it tested at blackstonelabs.com

- Stop changing your oil at 3K, 4K miles. Those intervals are just revenue generating intervals for all the quick lube/general repair shops. You are not gaining any protection advantage by changing it twice as often, you're just creating more oil waste and needlessly spending money. Follow what the manual recommends for your car and you'll be fine.

- Use the recommended oil viscosity (5W20, 5W30, etc.) for your particular car, regardless of mileage.

- Buy the 5 qt. jugs of synthetic oil at Wally World and save some $$. While you're at it, buy the filter there too. There are mixed reviews about oil filters so buy whatever you like. Personally, I purchase the Bosch oil filters that run about $6.50 at Kragen/O'Reilly. Not the cheapest one and not the most expensive one, just seems like a decent filter to me.

- Synthetics offer a much more durable protection compared with dino oil. They are a better oil period.