SilverIce2000

hey guys,
been a long time since i posted here. ANyways, i did a search but nothing matched my problem.

My car vibrates between the speeds of 60- 70mph. i have a 2000 Acura TL with stock rotors, pads, stock 16" rims and tires (balanced).

i got a new set of rims and when i put those on i noticed the vibration between those speeds. THen, i thought it was the new rims/tires that i got so i got rid of them and put my stock 16" oem rims/tires back on and i STILL get the vibration.

Any ideas of what went wrong?? pretty much i was fine, then sitched to aftermarket rims and felt vibration, then swtiched back to stock rims and STILL feel vibration.

THe vibration is not JUST from hitting hte brakes (although i get it from that too) but its from normal driving and picking up to highway speeds.

ANy ideas?

SHINY TL-13

maybe you need another balance

SilverIce2000

balance the tires of the wheels?? they were fine before.

i would have thought something with the rotors... like something must have happend when i swapped them. Beacuse both sets of wheels made the car vibrate...

dunno

pdprich

I have the same problem. I rebalance my tire and is not the tire, I end up replacing the left upper controll arm and the lower ball join. The ball join is a know problem with high milllage Honda Accord and Acura TL.

~RW

snowman81

I would also say balance them again. I don't think your rotors would cause a vibration unless you were braking. Seems like it may also be engine mounts. I think I remember reading about some people that had a vibration in the front end and had to replace their engine mounts. Just throwing some ideas out there...hope they help a little.

pdprich

Well I think one of the best way to start is to rote the front and real tire, see if the vibration still in the front, just to make sure is not the rim, if the rim is bad it does not matter how many times you balancce the tire you will still get the vibration.

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

Axles

spl1011

Still could be a stuck/stubborn brake caliper.

I had a similar issue with my stock 17's being bent. Had to get the wheels road force balanced (using a dynamic weight installation (weight on outside and inside of rim), not static (one weight on center of rim)).

Alignment wouldn't really cause this, esp. at such a known high speed range.

Is it a harsh vibration? How intense is it? Is it felt at the steering wheel, thoughout the car or both?

Snowman81 - Yeah, I remember a thread like that before as well. Solved his issue.

Pure Adrenaline - also good point. Have heard of that before. but wouldnt that usually be associated with an accident, or hitting something really badly? I think I remember an old post where it was a support bearing for the right axle that chewed up and failed.

Having had to deal with a similar problem and spent over $1k just to discover a $100 bent rim fix, I feel your pain bro.

z3Ro

engine mount mayb????

rondog

iTrader: (1)

bent control arm, long storry short, i had a vibration from driving, only durring accelration at the speeds you mentions, changed the tranny, the axles and wheels, everything, same vibration. Then, they changed the front control arms and vibration was gone. Try to mention that.

do a search on the cl boards, 2nd gen car talk, look for my posts for a play by play diagnosis.

AcuraTL

I say it is a balance issue also. If your car vibrates at any speed, then it might be a suspension component but if it vibrates at only between 60-70mph, then it is a balance issue.

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

Not necessarily. The axle boot could rip and lose all the grease. After a while, the axle goes bad.

Or it could even pop out under hard acceleration.

But generally, the rate of axle failure I've seen has been lower in the TL compared to other cars. But it's worth looking at.

fsttyms1

it doesnt seem much like a balance problem if he swapped rims and tires. odds are there is something else wrong causing it. bad axel, somethig bent, could be a brake caliper thats slightly hung up, your best bet is to get it into a shop where they are better suited to figuring it out

AcuraTL

I guess I missed the part when he said he swapped his stock wheels back on and it is still vibrating.

OP, does the vibration happen when only accelerating between those speed or it happens when you coast too? If it does both, then it has to be something in the suspension department. Sometimes, a worn bushing might cause the same kind of vibration like a unbalanced wheel/tire. Also, can you tell where it is vibrating? Can you feel it when you are holding the steering wheel or the whole front end shakes?

SilverIce2000

yeah i think itssomething with the axel or brake caliper... mind you the first swap from the stock to the aftermarket rims i did it myself. so i may have rushed something or banged something since i wanted to finish it up and swap it out quick... i remember i kicked the stock rim because it wasnt popping out.. i duno if that caused any damage.

Engine mount? or front control arms? not sure what that is or where thats located

SilverIce2000

its only between 60-65 or 70. no more than 70. anything before and after that is okay.. If i am going 80 and i slow down to 65 it starts to vibrate again until i go below 60.

To me, the whole car doesnt vibrate.. its the steering wheel. I dont feel the car vibrating although someone sitting in the passenger seat does. my steering wheel vibrates a lot and thats how i can tell the car is vibrating.

03CoupeV6

I have a major vibration issue, as well, on my 02 TL-P with 46700 miles. My previous dealer (Nalley Acura, please avoid at all costs) immediately said my tires were low quality (Goodyear Eagles). Mine does it worse and worse with increasing speed, though, well past 70. I've had the rims checked and tires balanced, no resolution.

spl1011

You also want to make sure the mating surfaces between axle/rotor/rim are clean and flush.

You kicking the wheel off shouldnt have caused any damage.

I know that for my vibe problem to have gone away completely after getting the wheel straightened was to get them road-forced balanced (a special balancer does this) and insisting they use a dynamic set up (weights on the back and as close to the face to the rim as possible).

Adrenalin - you are right, a good possibility.

Another easy check. Car jacked up, one wheel at a time is fine, and CHOCKED. Remove the wheel and place it out of park if front, release parking brake if rear. work at least two lugs back down the studs (if possible - the lugs may not be necessary. try to rotate the hub and rotor. They should rotate freely with a little scraping sound coming from the brake. You should be able to work the rotation up to a good pace and be easier for you. If it keeps binding on you, then it's a stuck caliper. Also note that the fronts will be tougher to rotate since you are also working against the differential, but you will notice if the brakes themselves are not giving up. Also, the rotor should have a little play.
That will help rule out a caliper issue.
To be honest, that is how I found the stuck caliper in my TL when I changed rotors. The rears just wouldnt spin. When I took it off to place new pads on, I had to remove each piston since they were seized up pretty good. Some emery cloth, brake cleaner and new brake grease and it was good to go.

Kinda long winded, sorry.
Good luck.